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2nd Try: What's missing from my ESS TS Kit??

12K views 65 replies 10 participants last post by  wshgrntd 
#1 · (Edited)
Let's try this again!

I picked up this baby from Elio and I went thru the manual to see what little odds and ends may be missing. Elio has been nothing short of excellent in this entire transaction. This is the last step in our transaction to figure out what parts if any may have been left behind. We are hoping to iron this out in one shot with the help of other ESS TS2 owners and ESS Directly.

Here's the parts list :

Inlet manifold , qty =1
Inlet for supercharger, qty =1
Intercooler cores, qty =3
End caps with connectors, qty =2
Supercharger with 85mm pulley, qty =1
Oilventilation valve with hose, qty =1
Fuel rail spacers with bolts, qty =4
Bypass with hose and clamps, qty =1
3/4inch hose for frontelement 1,5m, 2,2m and 0,7m, qty =1
Jhonson waterpump with cable kit, qty =1
Hoseclamps 27mm, qty =6
Bracket for rerouting belt with spacer and bolts, qty =1
Bracket for upper radiatorhose with bolt., qty =1
Upper radiator hose, qty =1
Silicone sleeve between mas and trottle w con., qty =1
Serovoil cannister tank with 25mm spacers and b., qty =1
Oil for supercharger, qty =1
Front element with brackets and bolts, qty =1
Hoseclamp for brake vaccum and canister, qty =1
Fuel injectors red, qty =6
Plug for dipsticktube with clamp, qty =1
Extension hose for fuel rail, qty =1











From what I see going thru the install manual, everything I highlighted in red I am not sure I have. These notes are straight from the install manual



***8226; Now you will see 4 free bolts sitting on the frame in front of the radiator. The front heat exchanger element is installed on the two lower bolts (Pic.67). The front element comes preassembled, but you might have to loosen the bolts a little to make it fit. The two L shaped brackets are installed onto the free bolts (Pic.68 and Pic.69). Secure them with supplied ESS nuts and washers using a 13mm socket. Tighten all the bolts on the element assembly.

Install the ESS pump on the bottom part of the left inner fender. (Air filter side of the car). Hold the pump in the position shown in the picture below. Mark up where the bracket holes will be drilled (Pic.70). (Where is the bracket?)Remove the pump and drill two 6.5mm (1/4inch) holes using a drill (Pic.71). Install the pump using supplied rubber mountings, washers and nuts (Pic.72). Secure the nuts using a 10mm socket.

***8226; Locate the indicated red/white wire inside the DME box (Pic.73). Tap into the wire and connect the long red pump wire with the fuse holder


Secure the bracket using the supplied bolts (Pic.99)


Anyone care to help us out on this, it would be greatly appreciated. The oil is still in the charger, what kind of oil is it? I have two belts and the gasket that aren't pictured in case people are wondering. Chime in, I need to get this thing installed before it snows!

Thanks,

Fran
 
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#9 ·
Oh you bought it second hand. Didn't catch that in the OP.

Good luck! It will be nice to see the install and dyno sheets later on!

Oh and use this for hosting pics http://www.imageshack.us/ it's free and never really seems to have issues. :hi:
 
#10 · (Edited)
If you are not planning to use a cherry picker, it might be a good idea to wrap the sc pulley or take it off and put it on when the assembly is in. It's very easy to bend that with the weight of the assembly. We knocked that thing against the engine bay and it bent in multiple areas. I already had a 7.0psi pulley, so the 6.5 pulley was dispensable, but if you plan to keep it, I'd be super careful.

You do need a new ESS manifold gasket for sure. That and the new belt seem to be missing.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Thank you...going from memory from the instruction manual, it says they are "capped" but I obviously don't have the caps either. I would use one for a boost gauge but don't see how the other vaccum line could be for a fuel pressure regulator unless that connects to the small line coming out of the silicone sleeve in my first picture
 
#19 ·
Asbjorn,

Could you please tell me what else is missing from my kit? I know the dipstick tube is missing and I question these parts:

***8226; Now you will see 4 free bolts sitting on the frame in front of the radiator. The front heat exchanger element is installed on the two lower bolts (Pic.67). The front element comes preassembled, but you might have to loosen the bolts a little to make it fit. The two L shaped brackets are installed onto the free bolts (Pic.68 and Pic.69). Secure them with supplied ESS nuts and washers using a 13mm socket. Tighten all the bolts on the element assembly.

Install the ESS pump on the bottom part of the left inner fender. (Air filter side of the car). Hold the pump in the position shown in the picture below. Mark up where the bracket holes will be drilled (Pic.70). (Where is the bracket?)Remove the pump and drill two 6.5mm (1/4inch) holes using a drill (Pic.71). Install the pump using supplied rubber mountings, washers and nuts (Pic.72). Secure the nuts using a 10mm socket.

***8226; Locate the indicated red/white wire inside the DME box (Pic.73). Tap into the wire and connect the long red pump wire with the fuse holder

Secure the bracket using the supplied bolts (Pic.99)

I'd like to place one order for everything I need and would like to get a spare radiator hose and gasket also. I'd really appreciate if you could review the pics which would help Elio and I finalize our transaction.

Thanks,

Fran
 
#20 ·
-There are no new dipstick tube used with this kit.
-The nuts/washers used are regular metric nuts, can be found easily at any hardware store locally, no need to pay $ to ship.
-The pump can be secured using 2 good size tie wraps, drill 4 holes in the bottom plastic cover and secure using the tie wraps through the holes. This is much easier to mount and works the same. I know Elio used this, which is why he probably forgot the included the bracket.

Looks to me like you are all set to go.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips,

I don't have an issue with the shipping since I would like to order a gasket and radiator hose. All the other missing parts can be included in that shipment, like the bracket, fuse holder, dipstick plug etc.

Maybe I need a new set of instructions and parts list from you. The instruction manual is dated 2/13/07. The instructions you sent to ELio awhile ago stated this plug on the dipstick tube. Is this step not required?:

Step 7: Install ESS supplied plug on dipstick tube.

Tools required: -Flathead screwdriver

***8226; Locate the free outlet on the dipstick tube (Pic.59) where you pulled off the hose earlier. Install the supplied ESS plug hose to seal off this opening. Secure the clamp using a flathead screwdriver (Pic.60). Make sure you don***8217;t twist or bend too much on the dipstick tube. You might damage the O-ring that seals the tube down into the oil pan.



Also, am I missing these items?

Extension hose for fuel rail, qty =1
End caps with connectors, qty =2
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the tips,

I don't have an issue with the shipping since I would like to order a gasket and radiator hose. All the other missing parts can be included in that shipment, like the bracket, fuse holder, dipstick plug etc.

Maybe I need a new set of instructions and parts list from you. The instruction manual is dated 2/13/07. The instructions you sent to ELio awhile ago stated this plug on the dipstick tube. Is this step not required?:

Step 7: Install ESS supplied plug on dipstick tube.

Tools required: -Flathead screwdriver

• Locate the free outlet on the dipstick tube (Pic.59) where you pulled off the hose earlier. Install the supplied ESS plug hose to seal off this opening. Secure the clamp using a flathead screwdriver (Pic.60). Make sure you don't twist or bend too much on the dipstick tube. You might damage the O-ring that seals the tube down into the oil pan.



Also, am I missing these items?

Extension hose for fuel rail, qty =1
End caps with connectors, qty =2
Yes, you need the plug for the dispstick tube hose, I thought you ment a new dipstick..

The end caps/connectors are already on your TS manifold.

There is no need for a fuel rail extension hose on your model.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Asbjorn,

Here is a picture of another member Paraklas' kit. He took these pictures straight of the box, just received a few days ago.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=6913672#post6913672

Comparing the two pics Mine:



His:



My silicone sleeve setup has way too many opporunities for leaks. I'd like to order the L shaped hose along with the fitting that goes into the bottom of the silcone sleeve. I also notice that I have mutiple splices in the top hose also. I'd like to order that hose too. .

Next, Mine:



His:



I'd like to order the two hoses that connect to the brass fittings on the intake also along with the Loctite 5926 and 243
 
#25 ·
Here's my kit:



Heat Exchanger




Intercooler hoses


MAF adaptor


Oil for the Supercharger. From what I gather its 10W60


Loctite Gasket paste


Loctite threadlock


Radiator hose, by BMW


New engine belt, by Contitech


idler pullies


Bosch High Flow Injectors


Marine type pump for heat exchanger


Brackets for heat exchanger


Machined ATF power steering bottle.. NICE!


And finally, the Lysholm Twin Screw supercharger with the intake manifold.








 
#27 ·
Thanks for linking all those pics! Now I see where the four spacers and hex bolts go on the manifold. :)

Just curious, on the bottom of my manifold, it looks like bolt is missing, does yours look like this?



It also appears that I am missing a long hex bolt and spacer for my pulley:





Did your kit come with any other hardware, nuts bolts washer, brackets, fuse holder, dipstick plug etc?

Thanks for the help, pictures are worth a thousand words!
 
#28 ·
this sucks... After we removed and stripped the old manifold, installed everything else, we discovered that the 90 degree 11cm hose that connects the manifold with the idle valve is missing. Now my car sits half-disassembled in the garage.

Called ESS @ Norway and they will include a new hose when they ship back my ECU but I was hoping to have everything ready by the time ECU arrives.

ESS, will I have a problem if I just use a hose from my local shop? with steel wires inside..
 
#31 · (Edited)
Bummer....There has gotta be something local. This is a Ford kit and the hose in the picture may work for you, my guess is it's a waterpump hose.

Asbjorn, regarding hoses, is there something specific to the long water line hoses also? I was wondering if I could put something a little more attractive on instead. While I am ordering things, you can add this little hose to the list:



http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=GTR%2D5001&view=1&N=700+150+%2D145675+
 
#33 ·
fmzip :

The newer version ESS IC coolant hose is all black. It is strongly recommended to use the ESS supplied IC hose as this is a custom designed hose which even if bent excessively is not possible to reduce flow in. The hose has extremely good quality and you can order the newer version of it without the printed yellow text on from us if this is important to you.

paraklas :

Have you checked the entire content of the box? That ICV hose is placed by itself in the box and it is quite small so it can hide easily. According to your packing list the hose was in the kit when it shipped out, so unless customs/FedEx has misplaced it during inspection it should be there. We will send you a new one along with your ECU as well, but do double check the content of the box once more just to be sure.
 
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