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Old 01-28-2016, 11:35 AM   #1
Whudipgrim25
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: MA
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My Ride: 2001 330CI
After CCV Change, Ran Rough to Won't Start (Please Help)

I have scoured multiple forums and searched for hours and now this is my last ditched effort before going to a mechanic. This is going to be long winded but I want to be as thorough as possible.

I have an '01 330CI auto and what I imagine was the original CCV. So I felt ambitious and tried swapping out the CCV without removing the intake manifold. Unfortunately the hose the hose that comes up to the air distributor wasn't fully twisted into place and when I started the car, it ran incredibly rough and was leaking oil. I only backed the car out of the garage, let it run for about 20-30 seconds before realizing that something wasn't right and pulled it right back in the garage. I had the secondary air system codes previously but now I had p0369 camshaft position B circuit intermittent.

I came to the realization that I was going to need to take off the intake manifold if I wanted to be 100% sure everything was snug. So I went and purchased both the sensors for both the intake and exhaust.

As I began to my new task, while removing the hose from the CCV to the valve cover, I underestimated how brittle it was and the inlet snapped. Now, I needed a new valve cover. I was able to pick one up at a local junk yard and replaced the gasket and grommets with the ones from my old valve cover which is less than a year old.

I eventually get the intake manifold off, replace the vacuum hoses that were causing the secondary air pump codes and properly adjust the CCV hoses so that they are snug and on correctly. I carefully button everything back up and replaced both CPS. What I did find odd is that the CPS on the passenger side had oil in the connector, possibly from leaving it previously disconnected while working on the engine? This had me confused. I blew it out with an air compressor and wiped it down as best as I could.

Now that I had everything buttoned back up, I cleared all the codes and tried starting the car. It cranked but wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to, but just wasn't getting what seemed to be enough spark. So I pulled the plugs and sure enough they were fouled despite being changed about 10,000 miles ago. So I went and bought new NGK laser platinums. Torqued them for 22 ft/lb and started it up. It seemed to have a little more spark but still nothing. I checked for codes and nothing. I thought maybe the battery was a little drained do to the cold, so I tried jumping it and had the same result.

I read that it's easy to flood these engines, so I pulled the plugs again and let it sit for 30 minutes. During that time I pulled the air box and made sure I had all of the electrical connections snug and pulled the fuse box in the engine compartment to make sure I didn't blow any of the 30 amp or the 20 amp fuses, everything was good. I put the plugs back in, there was fuel on them when they were pulled, torqued them properly and let the battery charge up with jumper cables to a friends car.

I didn't put the air box back in, I just connected the MAF sensor and sprayed a bit of starter fluid into the elbow and then tried to start it again, same result. I tried turning it over again a few seconds later and then there was a large pop and a little smoke came from the driver side of the engine. I immediately got out of the car, but couldn't exactly tell where it came from. I tried turning it over again and now it is just a large click where the lights dim and that's it.

I am at a complete loss. I read about a "bore wash" and how I could manually crank the engine and add a little oil to restore compression, but now that it just clicks once when I turn the key over, I don't know where to turn. Does that sounds like I blew the starter? I hope I have provided enough details in to where I should start to look and go through the process of elimination. I also read that someone had cleaned all their connections with MAF cleaner and that fixed their issue with a nonstart, is that safe? I would really like to avoid bringing it to a mechanic, but it's looking more and more like that's my only recourse. Any advise or directing me to another thread that I possibly missed would greatly be appreciated.
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Old 01-28-2016, 11:51 AM   #2
jfoj
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TLDR, shooting form the hip you flooded the engine. The kiss of death is to allow an E46 to run for less than 3-5 minutes in the Winter.

Make sure the battery is FULLY charged and/or jump the car while trying to start it.

Read these threads -

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1063462

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1069117
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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 01-28-2016, 12:15 PM   #3
Whudipgrim25
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: MA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
TLDR, shooting form the hip you flooded the engine. The kiss of death is to allow an E46 to run for less than 3-5 minutes in the Winter.

Make sure the battery is FULLY charged and/or jump the car while trying to start it.

Read these threads -

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1063462

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1069117

Thanks for your prompt response. It certainly appears that I flooded the engine. But my main concern now, was the pop that I heard when trying to start it and now it only clicks once when I turn the key. My first concern is getting that problem addressed. Any possible ideas on what to look for? Will a starter just pop and die like that? Or will it just stop working?

Last edited by Whudipgrim25; 01-28-2016 at 12:17 PM.
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Old 01-28-2016, 01:08 PM   #4
SiVaE46
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Check the battery voltage - if it's less than 12.2 - there is your first problem. Charge the battery up before you start it again.

I would remove your CPs again and clean out the connectors better with a contact cleaner. Bad signal from CPs will prevent the engine from starting.

Vacuum leak would be next thing to check for - search for smoke test here.

Good luck and let us know how it goes
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:10 PM   #5
Kubica
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A few people have mixed up electrical connections when doing the CCV job. I can't remember exactly but I think one of the cam sensors can be plugged into the oil pressure sensor location. This causes a no-start and blows a fuse (under the hood).
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:43 PM   #6
Whudipgrim25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
A few people have mixed up electrical connections when doing the CCV job. I can't remember exactly but I think one of the cam sensors can be plugged into the oil pressure sensor location. This causes a no-start and blows a fuse (under the hood).

When swapping out the sensor, I looked up a few DIYs to make sure I had it plugged into the correct spot and checked the fuse box in the hood for any blown fuses and they were all good. So I am almost positive everything else is plugged into the right connectors since they are keyed. I am going to go through and clean them, thanks though.

Last edited by Whudipgrim25; 01-28-2016 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 01-28-2016, 02:45 PM   #7
BKMrSteel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
A few people have mixed up electrical connections when doing the CCV job. I can't remember exactly but I think one of the cam sensors can be plugged into the oil pressure sensor location. This causes a no-start and blows a fuse (under the hood).
Man, I thought every connector had a "key" preventing this. Cant say I have done this, but I tried a few just to see.
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:00 PM   #8
Whudipgrim25
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**Fixed**

So I went and had the battery tested, they said it was a little low but was still holding a charge.I took off the fan and manually cranked the engine a few times and put a little oil in each cylinder Decided to give it one more shot while jump starting it. . After a few tries where it wanted to start but would quite spark, it started up. It was pouring white exhaust but was running smoothly. After a few minutes the white smoke subsided and no check engine light. Took it for a spin down the highway and burned out all the deposits left. The throttle response was the best its been since I bought the car. Thanks for all that chipped in and had advise for me.

Last edited by Whudipgrim25; 01-30-2016 at 05:02 PM.
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