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Old 12-11-2016, 12:12 PM   #61
Dave1027
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Originally Posted by mattthecoxcomb View Post
Having done O2 Pilot mod today, I noticed the following: while it is possible to connect a vacuum line to the capped CCV port without removing the throttle body on standard CCVs, for the winterized CCV (which is wrapped in foam insulation), I found that getting to the port required removing the throttle body. Certainly not deal breaker for anyone competent enough to do this job, just something to be aware of if anyone is having trouble.

That said, I am having trouble of my own. During the course of this mod I took apart the intake system down to the manifold. I cleaned the throttle body and the idle control valve with carburetor cleaner. I inspected the intake boot segments and they were free of cracks. I did not replace the O-rings for either the throttle body or the DISA as these were replaced in March when I removed the entire manifold to replace the CCV. I got everything back together but when I started my car afterward the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with EML, SES, and traction triangle lights (!). The idle also fluctuated wildly from 400 to almost 1,400 RPM. The car is not driveable in this condition.

I connected my code reader which indicated lean codes for both banks as well as throttle position sensor errors. I'm thinking this must be an intake leak somewhere and admittedly I kind of rushed putting the intake boot sections/airbox back together--which makes me think maybe some section of the boot isn't properly connected. Either that or the throttle body and DISA O-rings need replacing again. Are they single-use items like some crush washers? Did anyone else have any such hiccups doing this mod? At this point my plan is to tear down the intake back to the throttle body again and rebuild more carefully, just wondering if anyone had similar problems with this. Also wondering if maybe my cleaning of the idle control valve or throttle body could have damaged either--I used the same procedure as in March and had no problem then. But the throttle position sensor code concerns me. Lean codes--almost definitely a leak in some rubber or plastic part. But the throttle position sensor code--could I have messed up the throttle body?

Also, any possibility the new vacuum line running from the CCV to the unused port on the manifold (the O2 Pilot mod itself) is the cause? I'm just disturbed because the last time I did this I took off the whole manifold, which was a much bigger job (involving disconnecting the fuel rail etc.) and the intake tract went back together without issue. Please help!
I've already posted that the 02Pilot mod is a simple 20 minute task where nothing is removed but the cabin filter housing and the plastic belly shield. You never had to remove the throttle body or any of that.
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Old 12-11-2016, 09:54 PM   #62
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Thanks for the input and feedback everyone.

So I got it working. I think I didn't tighten all the hose clamps fully and that was causing an intake leak and lean codes. I buttoned everything back together and started her up and no longer had lean codes but still had the P0123 and P0222 throttle position sensor codes. I pulled it apart for a third time and brilliantly found that I had forgotten to reconnect the wiring harness to the throttle body. Brilliant.

Lesson learned: don't rush reassembly.

Now that the O2 Pilot Mod is hooked up and hopefully creating more crankcase vacuum, I will report on my oil consumption as appropriate. Thanks again!
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Old 12-11-2016, 10:00 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by mattthecoxcomb View Post
Thanks for the input and feedback everyone.

So I got it working. I think I didn't tighten all the hose clamps fully and that was causing an intake leak and lean codes. I buttoned everything back together and started her up and no longer had lean codes but still had the P0123 and P0222 throttle position sensor codes. I pulled it apart for a third time and brilliantly found that I had forgotten to reconnect the wiring harness to the throttle body. Brilliant.

Lesson learned: don't rush reassembly.

Now that the O2 Pilot Mod is hooked up and hopefully creating more crankcase vacuum, I will report on my oil consumption as appropriate. Thanks again!
I was going to say. Something was not plugged in. Glad you found it. Pay more attention!!
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Old 12-11-2016, 10:22 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by mattthecoxcomb View Post
Thanks for the input and feedback everyone.

So I got it working. I think I didn't tighten all the hose clamps fully and that was causing an intake leak and lean codes. I buttoned everything back together and started her up and no longer had lean codes but still had the P0123 and P0222 throttle position sensor codes. I pulled it apart for a third time and brilliantly found that I had forgotten to reconnect the wiring harness to the throttle body. Brilliant.

Lesson learned: don't rush reassembly.

Now that the O2 Pilot Mod is hooked up and hopefully creating more crankcase vacuum, I will report on my oil consumption as appropriate. Thanks again!
Glad you got it sorted. Hopefully your oil consumption goes down, too.
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:30 PM   #65
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I have an M54 engine with increasing oil consumption and read this thread with interest. In summary, is it safe to try the 02Pilot mod? Meaning that it won't hurt the engine or pose any risk to the mechanicals of the car? And exactly how much do I need to remove to access the ports for the new vacuum line? It didn't seem clear from the post. Thanks!


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Old 03-01-2017, 06:46 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by egruber View Post
I have an M54 engine with increasing oil consumption and read this thread with interest. In summary, is it safe to try the 02Pilot mod? Meaning that it won't hurt the engine or pose any risk to the mechanicals of the car? And exactly how much do I need to remove to access the ports for the new vacuum line? It didn't seem clear from the post. Thanks!
I have been running the 02Pilot Mod for two years without any adverse issues http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...lacement/page9

As I posted about three posts up (sheesh, doesn't anybody read any more?) you only really need to remove the cabin filter assembly to reach the vacuum ports on the back of the intake manifold and the plastic belly plate to reach the vacuum port on the CCV.

The DIY made by 50sKid that Lingon links to is nowhere close to necessary. He makes a 20 minute task into an all day job.
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:50 PM   #67
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Thanks for the reply. Sorry I missed your earlier post. I do try to not ask redundant questions. And I was referring to the 50skid post that made it look overly complex.


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Old 03-08-2017, 07:50 PM   #68
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I've read the increase in vacuum can pull oil into the air intake if you open the oil cap while the engine is running. Not seeing how that would happen.
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Old 03-08-2017, 08:37 PM   #69
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What vacuum line should we use? All the vacuum lines I've bought at the store fail within a week. They get soft.
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Old 03-08-2017, 11:07 PM   #70
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I've read the increase in vacuum can pull oil into the air intake if you open the oil cap while the engine is running. Not seeing how that would happen.
Doesn't really make any sense, as far as I can tell. Opening the oil cap should terminate the vacuum, not pull oil into the intake. The CCV would have to be full of oil, and that's not how it works.

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What vacuum line should we use? All the vacuum lines I've bought at the store fail within a week. They get soft.
This: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bra...m-od-x-20mm-id

It's the same hose I linked to in the DIY. The best vacuum hose you can buy, in my opinion.
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:59 AM   #71
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What vacuum line should we use? All the vacuum lines I've bought at the store fail within a week. They get soft.
Fail? How so?

I used 28 inches of heavy duty 3/16 inch vacuum tubing I bought at the auto parts store. Been working fine for two years.
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Old 03-09-2017, 11:26 PM   #72
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Great write up !! I did mine in about an hour . Thanks a lot


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Old 03-11-2017, 03:28 PM   #73
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I have used the 02pilot mod for a year now,just before i was rapid flushing the engine with its normal oil as soon as it blackened i did maybe 6/7 oil changes and saw an improvement when that reached its peak i did the mod and my oil consumption has dwindled to 1/2 litre every 3 months thats about 2000 miles and seems to still be going down,so i am very pleased to be driving a normal car that i dont even need carry oil in the boot anymore THANKS TO 02PILOT,PS my car just turned 200,000 miles.(E46 330ci)

Last edited by alan53; 03-11-2017 at 03:31 PM. Reason: forgot to mention model
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Old 04-20-2017, 01:05 PM   #74
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i plan on doing this when i replace my ccv i'm burning like 1.5 quarts every 1000 mile and there are no leaks, I also have the under tray removed so that i can see if it leaks.
Is anyone using the silicone hose that fcp carries?

Also i have done the golf-tee mod and if that vacuum canister is only used for that purpose can i just remove the canister out of the car and use the smaller port on the intake? I see that op says i can but is anyone using the smaller port on the intake for this purpose? Seems like everyone is using the bigger empty port on the intake for this.

Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2017, 01:36 PM   #75
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I just replaced all my vacuum lines with the silicone vacuum line from fcp about a week ago. I've only driven about 200 miles so far but the lines seemed pretty strong when i put them on, and I've heard good things about them
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Old 04-20-2017, 01:39 PM   #76
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I just replaced all my vacuum lines with the silicone vacuum line from fcp about a week ago. I've only driven about 200 miles so far but the lines seemed pretty strong when i put them on, and I've heard good things about them
did you use the smaller hole on the intake manifold for this mod or the bigger one with an adapter?
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Old 04-20-2017, 01:45 PM   #77
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I didn't do the o2 pilot mods(i did an m56 valve cover), i was just speaking to the quality of the vacuum line from fcp
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Old 04-20-2017, 01:50 PM   #78
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I didn't do the o2 pilot mods(i did an m56 valve cover), i was just speaking to the quality of the vacuum line from fcp
oh i see.
I know they are good quality I've used them before but they are a bit soft so i was wondering how they would hold up.

Edit: I finally replaced my CCV and did this mod (used the small connector that was connected to the vacuum canister). Getting the CCV and the hoses connected was easy without the manifold off but putting the dipstick back in was PITA (lubed the o-ring, cleaned the area well and still no luck), i still don't think it is seated properly because after i pressed it in it was still able to move a little but the hole for the screw lined up so i figured it is in all the way and there are no leaks so i'm guessing it went in correctly (i hope).

At 145k miles my CCV was pristine and i almost felt bad for doing all this work for nothing but i wanted to do this mod so i thought might as well.
There's a hissing sound (like air being sucked in) after i shut the car off and it goes on for about 5-6 seconds, my guess is it's the DISA o-ring. I had replaced it last year so i thought it'd be good but when i took it out it was torn in half but still connected so i reused it since i didn't have a spare on hand but it's not a big enough leak to send a lean code, i still plan on replacing it when i get a chance.

Will post if it fixed or at least decreased the amount of oil i was burning.

Last edited by Bimrboy; 04-20-2017 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:33 PM   #79
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I simply just replaced my old CCV and i havent burned one drop of oil since. I was burning a qt every 800-1000 miles. Only thing im going to do is put a non return valve on the separator to dipstick hose.
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Old 04-20-2017, 11:06 PM   #80
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I didn't do the o2 pilot mods(i did an m56 valve cover), i was just speaking to the quality of the vacuum line from fcp
The m56 valve cover compared to this mod is like a Mercedes S-Class compared to a Geo Metro. I'm 100% for the m56 route, it's just more expensive. (It might even be less work.) But, if you're not replacing the CCV, this has the positive attribute of costing nothing more than a short piece of vacuum hose.

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Originally Posted by Bimrboy View Post
At 145k miles my CCV was pristine and i almost felt bad for doing all this work for nothing but i wanted to do this mod so i thought might as well.
There's a hissing sound (like air being sucked in) after i shut the car off and it goes on for about 5-6 seconds, my guess is it's the DISA o-ring. I had replaced it last year so i thought it'd be good but when i took it out it was torn in half but still connected so i reused it since i didn't have a spare on hand but it's not a big enough leak to send a lean code, i still plan on replacing it when i get a chance.
The mod probably won't have any effect unless there are NO vacuum leaks. I would hold off on taking the oil level seriously until you smoke test to confirm that the engine isn't sucking in fresh air.

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Originally Posted by Pro325ie46 View Post
I simply just replaced my old CCV and i havent burned one drop of oil since. I was burning a qt every 800-1000 miles. Only thing im going to do is put a non return valve on the separator to dipstick hose.
If the CCV is the only thing causing you to burn oil, then replacing the CCV is all that's necessary.

I did the mod before replacing the CCV as a trial to see if I would end up going with a catch can instead. The oil burning was drastically reduced, so I went ahead and replaced the CCV. As far as I remember, replacement of the CCV had no effect on anything. But many of the tubes cracked open as soon as I started to touch them. So the parts were definitely ready to be replaced. Almost definitely all original to the car.

Last edited by lingon300k; 04-20-2017 at 11:12 PM.
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