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Old 01-18-2014, 12:56 AM   #21
lszlszx
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Try to synchronize them again, see what happens.

If the scanner is showing DME codes, it's possible that something is wrong with the computer, but by a used one, don't spend $1500.
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"Would the codes indicate if it's the carburator?"
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:27 AM   #22
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Nice, OP!

I'd suggest adding 'no fuel' up with the 'fuel' issues--before FP, FF, etc. ...maybe say something like 'if you're reading 1/4 tank of fuel, it may be in the left lobe of tank, not in the right where the FP is, because the fuel sending unit isn't working.' Something like that. I've seen a number of 'no fuel/fuel in wrong lobe' no starts.

Finally, I'd suggest at the end of your post that you write something like "If none of this helps you, make a thread about it and include vital information like year, model, mileage, recent work/incidents, what you've checked and how you checked it (thinking of all the batteries 'diagnosed' as good when they're not!), what you've most recently done on your car, species of dog, etc.

Nice...+1 on sticky nomination...surprised there isn't one already.
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:27 AM   #23
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Didn't want to start a new thread but it's funny how this thread was on the top when I'm having a no start issue. I made a 1 min. video because even though I have a feeling that the battery is the culprit, there is this loud weird noise coming from the middle a/c vent that I had no clue why it was doing that. I didn't speak in the video so you guys can hear the noise coming from the a/c vent, but after looking through the video, the noise is barely audible. Is that loud noise normal when the battery is failing? Because that was the first time i've heard of that noise.

Not really sure why my battery did this randomly since I've been doing this (explained later) for a while. I was washed the car and as i was drying it, I had the radio on, and the lights off. I may have left it on for maybe 30-40 mins. Shut it off, went to dinner and came back a few hours later and it won't start.

Went through the hidden obc menu, 19, 9 and looked at the voltage. I read somewhere that it has to be at ~140ish. Mine was at 105. As I switched on the radio, the voltage went up and down by like 1-3. Then I switched on the a/c with the radio on and the voltage was now at ~89-91ish.

And what does it mean when it isn't cranking or turning over?

*edit*
Not sure why the youtube link made my whole sentence a link. EDIT2, the link button doesn't work, I'm confused. I removed the . and replaced it with a "dot".
https://www.youtubedotcom/watch?v=e9k5tau6cfQ



and when it comes to jump starting, I've read that you have to do it through the terminals in the engine bay and NOT the trunk yea? I was looking online and this seems to be a debate for some.

Just to run it through you guys, (steps for jump starting are right?)
+ dead (engine bay terminal)
+ charged
- charged
- dead on any metal (engine bay).

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Old 01-18-2014, 10:14 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
Nice, OP!

I'd suggest adding 'no fuel' up with the 'fuel' issues--before FP, FF, etc. ...maybe say something like 'if you're reading 1/4 tank of fuel, it may be in the left lobe of tank, not in the right where the FP is, because the fuel sending unit isn't working.' Something like that. I've seen a number of 'no fuel/fuel in wrong lobe' no starts.

Finally, I'd suggest at the end of your post that you write something like "If none of this helps you, make a thread about it and include vital information like year, model, mileage, recent work/incidents, what you've checked and how you checked it (thinking of all the batteries 'diagnosed' as good when they're not!), what you've most recently done on your car, species of dog, etc.

Nice...+1 on sticky nomination...surprised there isn't one already.

Thanks dmax! I was surprised myself a thread like this hasn't been done already.

Thanks for the suggestions! I'm trying to figure this out. Isn't the fuel pump supposed to siphon the gas out of the left side of the tank?

So if the pump works, how can the right side be empty and gas left on the left side?
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:21 PM   #25
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Nicely done! I agree that this should be stickied.


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Old 01-19-2014, 08:03 PM   #26
lszlszx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerfervor View Post
Didn't want to start a new thread but it's funny how this thread was on the top when I'm having a no start issue. I made a 1 min. video because even though I have a feeling that the battery is the culprit, there is this loud weird noise coming from the middle a/c vent that I had no clue why it was doing that. I didn't speak in the video so you guys can hear the noise coming from the a/c vent, but after looking through the video, the noise is barely audible. Is that loud noise normal when the battery is failing? Because that was the first time i've heard of that noise.

Not really sure why my battery did this randomly since I've been doing this (explained later) for a while. I was washed the car and as i was drying it, I had the radio on, and the lights off. I may have left it on for maybe 30-40 mins. Shut it off, went to dinner and came back a few hours later and it won't start.

Went through the hidden obc menu, 19, 9 and looked at the voltage. I read somewhere that it has to be at ~140ish. Mine was at 105. As I switched on the radio, the voltage went up and down by like 1-3. Then I switched on the a/c with the radio on and the voltage was now at ~89-91ish.

And what does it mean when it isn't cranking or turning over?
Not sure why the youtube link made my whole sentence a link. EDIT2, the link button doesn't work, I'm confused. I removed the . and replaced it with a "dot".
and when it comes to jump starting, I've read that you have to do it through the terminals in the engine bay and NOT the trunk yea? I was looking online and this seems to be a debate for some.

Just to run it through you guys, (steps for jump starting are right?)
+ dead (engine bay terminal)
+ charged
- charged
- dead on any metal (engine bay).
You probably already figured it out, but the sound you hear is the starter.
It makes that sound sometimes when the battery is dead.

If the battery is weak, even playing music during a car wash can kill it.

Yes, you jump start under the hood, that is the name of the terminal on the passenger side. (connect positive to positive, negative to negative)
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Old 02-01-2014, 10:43 AM   #27
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I added a picture to the starter section that helps trouble shoot the starter.
Measuring voltage at the starter is a really useful trouble shooting step for a no crank situation.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:44 PM   #28
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I'm really glad lszlszx made this thread. This should really be sticky because, for whatever reason, I barely saw this right now. I've been dealing with a no start issue for about a month now. I guess I've been searching too specifically on the starter and I have just now eliminated it as the culprit. The car just suddenly stopped starting one night.

I'll start off with what happens when I turn the key. The lights dim, fuel pump primes, and I can hear a single click of the starter solenoid. That's about it. No crank no start. Car has new battery and I just put in a used starter I found on eBay (finally took my old one to get checked, turns out it was fully functional to begin with).

I've checked the voltage both at the battery and at the front terminals, both are reading around 13V (using an analog multimeter). Checked the voltage at the starter during ignition and it spikes to ~12V. The car will crank up when jump started and push started, but I cannot get the car to turn over on its own. While I had the car running, I went ahead and checked the voltages everywhere and they seem to be consistent with a functional alternator. Aside from running a little lean sometimes due to a vacuum leak (could that be part of the problem?), the car seems to run fine for extended periods of time. I've checked most of the usual culprits of bad connections (all terminals and ground strap) and there doesn't seem to be any corrosion or fraying.

Based on this, I'm inclined to narrow this down to a voltage/connection problem. So far, I've ruled out the battery, parasitic draw, the alternator, and the starter. All that's left is a bad connection somewhere. I read on a VW forum that one guy had a problem connection between ignition and the starter. I'm going to hunt down a wiring diagram and see if that may be the culprit and update you guys so that we can possibly add that to the list under "Bad Connections." In the meantime, anyone have any thoughts on what else I may have missed?
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Old 02-07-2014, 05:30 PM   #29
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Yes, there could be a voltage drop if jump start enables the starter to crank.

What is the voltage at terminal "B"?
Remove the wire from terminal "C" when measuring voltage.

Determining the difference in voltage with the jumper cables on could also give some clues.

If there is voltage at the small terminal, the ignition switch and the wire from the switch is OK, unless the voltage drop is caused by a bad contact inside the switch.
This is why it's better to measure voltage there with the wire disconnected.
If battery voltage is present, there is no voltage drop there.

VWs have had problems with ignition switches, I replaced two within one year on my GTI.

There could be a combination of things going on causing your no start.
The starter may also be binding and the extra power boost may be able to
get it going.
Electric motors can get stuck. I just fixed one of the windows on our Volvo.
I whacked the motor with my ratchet, just took a chance and it started working.

I'm glad the thread is helping you!
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:08 PM   #30
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Figured it out and as usual, I feel really dumb for not doing this a lot earlier on. So I have angel eyes on my car and didn't bother to think of that as a possible culprit because I checked the fuse and it was fine. I guess the fuse that came with the kit I bought was probably at a lot higher rating than it should have been since it cooked the wires at the front + terminal (under the plastic cover where the battery wire connects with the + terminal). Plus, I know that angel eyes usually don't draw a whole lot of power, especially if they're SMDs. We were only able to hone in on that possibility after trying to diagnose after a short drive. We noticed a lot of heat coming from that area during start and a very faint smell of smoke. I guess during cold starts the angel eyes haven't been running that long so they aren't able to generate enough heat to smoke up. Still, can't help feeling a little dumb for not trying this a lot sooner just to cover my bases better.

Took off the angel eye lead and cleaned off the battery wire and started up perfect. The angel eyes were probably sucking away the power from the starter at start, which is why jump starting worked because it bypasses that connection. Although this is probably not a common problem, if this thread ever becomes a sticky, you could add this to the "bad connection" subheading of the post. I'm sure if whoever is reading the post will be more likely to double check their connections regardless of the condition of the fuse if they saw it there. Then again, most people would have probably tried this a lot sooner than I did.
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Old 02-07-2014, 07:22 PM   #31
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Great post! I had a problem a while back where the car wouldn't even turn over. Turned out to be the key. Something electronic in the key for an antitheft system. Got a new key and started right up!


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Old 02-07-2014, 07:28 PM   #32
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STICKY THIS ASAP!!!!!! Holy cow whoever just bumped this i thank you!!! Just posted something about a soft fuel pump and this just may have clarified EVERYTHING FOR ME !!!!!! Thank you again!!!


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Old 02-08-2014, 09:38 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by djindoe View Post
Figured it out and as usual, I feel really dumb for not doing this a lot earlier on. So I have angel eyes on my car and didn't bother to think of that as a possible culprit because I checked the fuse and it was fine. I guess the fuse that came with the kit I bought was probably at a lot higher rating than it should have been since it cooked the wires at the front + terminal (under the plastic cover where the battery wire connects with the + terminal). Plus, I know that angel eyes usually don't draw a whole lot of power, especially if they're SMDs. We were only able to hone in on that possibility after trying to diagnose after a short drive. We noticed a lot of heat coming from that area during start and a very faint smell of smoke. I guess during cold starts the angel eyes haven't been running that long so they aren't able to generate enough heat to smoke up. Still, can't help feeling a little dumb for not trying this a lot sooner just to cover my bases better.

Took off the angel eye lead and cleaned off the battery wire and started up perfect. The angel eyes were probably sucking away the power from the starter at start, which is why jump starting worked because it bypasses that connection. Although this is probably not a common problem, if this thread ever becomes a sticky, you could add this to the "bad connection" subheading of the post. I'm sure if whoever is reading the post will be more likely to double check their connections regardless of the condition of the fuse if they saw it there. Then again, most people would have probably tried this a lot sooner than I did.
Glad you figured it out!
Not sure if I understand, where was the bad connection and why did it cause a more than normal voltage drop?
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Old 03-28-2014, 09:25 PM   #34
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I just checked out your no start and it seems as if it may be a fuel pump issue. Could putting more gas in it help it out at all or have I flooded the engine already by trying to crank it?

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Old 03-28-2014, 09:51 PM   #35
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First you said it didn't crank. Does it crank now?

Did you listen to the pump with the key in position 2?
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:11 PM   #36
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It wouldn't crank yesterday. And it hasn't crank since. What exactly am I listening for? This is my first BMW and I am new to all this so I will sound like a dummy when it come to this car.

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Old 03-28-2014, 10:27 PM   #37
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When you turn the key and the lights come on on the dash, that is position 2, or ignition on. The fuel pump primes for maybe 2 seconds. The fuel pump is under the rear seat on the right side. If you listen carefully as you turn the key, you should hear the fuel pump.

If the starter doesn't crank, first you need to measure battery voltage.
Use a multimeter, or learn to display voltage on the OBC.

Instructions to access the hidden OBC functions:

1. Hold Trip Reset while turning ignition key to on position
2. OBC should show "Test"
3. Use Trip Reset to select function 19.0 that unlocks all the features
3. Wait for display to show "Off"
4. Depress Trip Reset for 1/4 second and release it
5. With no delay press Trip Reset several times to #9

You can now see system voltage.
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Old 03-29-2014, 09:26 AM   #38
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I don't have a multi meter. The last time I drove the car it was really hesitant. No matter how much gas I gave it the car was still putting and it wouldn't go more than 45. Seemed like it took a lot to get up the road.

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Old 03-29-2014, 10:47 AM   #39
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You might have a weak fuel pump, but that won't prevent the starter from cranking.
A multimeter is needed for basic electrical tests, like measuring battery voltage:

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Old 03-29-2014, 11:15 AM   #40
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Well the car is trying to start but it will not turn all the way over. It isn't ticking like it is the starter it is cranking but the motor won't start.

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