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General E46 Forum
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Old 03-29-2014, 07:31 PM   #41
lszlszx
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If it cranks, you may need a fuel pump. Remove the rear seat, that way it's easier to hear the pump prime. Pull on the corner of the seat firmly on each side.
The fuel pump is under the round cover. When you turn the key to position 2, you should hear a short buzzing sound.
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Old 03-29-2014, 07:34 PM   #42
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I hear it but still a no go. Pulled the seat up as well

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Old 03-29-2014, 08:07 PM   #43
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Well the car is trying to start but it will not turn all the way over. It isn't ticking like it is the starter it is cranking but the motor won't start.

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your battery sounds very weak. Even if it's cranking, it may not be enough to start the car. Had a similar problem recently: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...425&highlight=. Car was cranking so I ignored the battery, but these cars need a strong battery to turn the engine over quickly enough to start.

test the theory by having someone give you a jump. If that doesn't work, have the battery charged, try again, and report back.

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Old 03-29-2014, 09:00 PM   #44
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Thanks for the tip buddy

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Old 03-29-2014, 09:00 PM   #45
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Definitely will try

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Old 03-30-2014, 01:49 PM   #46
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Hey if I pop out my wires for the exhaust cam position sensor, should oil have gotten into that plug area?? Or should it be bone dry, and oil only appear when I pull the sensor out?

I can't run codes, just replaced my fuel pump and still can't start, and noticed that when checking that sensor. New alt,battery(49), and fuel pump. Cranks strong but won't turn over.




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Old 03-30-2014, 06:16 PM   #47
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You can trouble shoot the sensor. I don't think it's causing your no start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=jUZAiHpuF0s

Are sure the oil didn't drip from the valve cover on the plug?
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Old 03-30-2014, 06:49 PM   #48
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You can trouble shoot the sensor. I don't think it's causing your no start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=jUZAiHpuF0s

Are sure the oil didn't drip from the valve cover on the plug?

What made you so certain from the start lol. I just started a thread, with pictures. Im certain it didn't drip "on" to it because it was directly in the plug. But also I am led to believe it's my issue because I had the slow acceleration in low rpms, and had all the stalling under 40 randomly and the not 100% consistent slow starts. But it didn't wind up being the fuel pump, I am check the filter. But why would the original sensor have oil directly in it if it's not suppose to, seems to me that could cause the sensor to act funny depending on how much oil got to it at the time of use could be the reason for the fluctuation in problems. But, I don't have the tools to test it right now, but did have a CEL.




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Old 03-30-2014, 07:12 PM   #49
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If it threw a code and the oil leaks through it, you need one.
I hope that'll fix it, it's uncommon for a bad exhaust cam sensor to cause no start.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:22 PM   #50
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If it threw a code and the oil leaks through it, you need one.

I hope that'll fix it, it's uncommon for a bad exhaust cam sensor to cause no start.

Oh definitely. I think the intake just went too. I just can't get the codes read I'm changing both, expecting the intake to be just as old




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Old 03-31-2014, 09:35 PM   #51
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I hear it but still a no go. Pulled the seat up as well
If you hear the pump, you must have fuel.
Scan for codes. If nothing comes up check if there is spark.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:38 PM   #52
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Click image for larger version

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ID:	552166yup she went only. Fp is prob fine




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Old 04-01-2014, 03:14 PM   #53
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Sensor wires are damaged? How did that happen?
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Old 04-01-2014, 03:23 PM   #54
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No clue actually. And look

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I electrical taped over all the colours to the tubing to protect those better. They aren't brittle. But I also cut and found where the wires on the intake cam sensor were healthy, re wired and fixed up enough to get me to the shop for a new one.

Is running the wires to my exhaust cam sensor and other two plugs, safe to run from the engine > up through the gap between the oil filter and canister(unbolt and rebolt canister, wires are not tight fit) > along the front the engine to the plugs/sensors?


I'll post a picture of what I mean later




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Old 04-04-2014, 10:11 AM   #55
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My M3 wouldn't start today. Got in the car, clutch in, turned the key. Everything was fine till I turned to ignition. Once I went to start it, the instrument cluster and all the electrical died, no click from the starter, it all died.

Got out, popped the trunk, checked the battery for a loose terminal or something obvious. Wiggled the negative terminal, but it was tight. Saw the cabin light come on, got in, tried again. Same thing. All looks good until I try to turn it over, then electrical dies, just as before.

Jumped in my Acura and found this guide at work, I'll give the troubleshooting you posted when I get home.

Any preliminary guesses?
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:26 PM   #56
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My M3 wouldn't start today. Got in the car, clutch in, turned the key. Everything was fine till I turned to ignition. Once I went to start it, the instrument cluster and all the electrical died, no click from the starter, it all died.

Got out, popped the trunk, checked the battery for a loose terminal or something obvious. Wiggled the negative terminal, but it was tight. Saw the cabin light come on, got in, tried again. Same thing. All looks good until I try to turn it over, then electrical dies, just as before.

Jumped in my Acura and found this guide at work, I'll give the troubleshooting you posted when I get home.

Any preliminary guesses?

Is the ground wire that's attached to the battery, well attached on the other side? Most of the time we only think to check the battery, not the other side of the wire.

You might have a problem like mine directly above yours in this post, where wires are shorting out.

You can also check the computer in your dash if it's working, going to 19 off, 9, and check alternator voltage with it, and the rest of your cars voltages




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Old 04-04-2014, 03:30 PM   #57
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Is the ground wire that's attached to the battery, well attached on the other side? Most of the time we only think to check the battery, not the other side of the wire.

You might have a problem like mine directly above yours in this post, where wires are shorting out.

You can also check the computer in your dash if it's working, going to 19 off, 9, and check alternator voltage with it, and the rest of your cars voltages




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Just got home, jumped in and gave it a crank. Nothing. Dead.

Opened trunk, checked battery again, connections tight.

Car starts. I'm becoming convinced my car is possessed. Still going to check voltages and cables this weekend, but as long as she runs...
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:12 PM   #58
lszlszx
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Originally Posted by JeffM052 View Post
My M3 wouldn't start today. Got in the car, clutch in, turned the key. Everything was fine till I turned to ignition. Once I went to start it, the instrument cluster and all the electrical died, no click from the starter, it all died.

Got out, popped the trunk, checked the battery for a loose terminal or something obvious. Wiggled the negative terminal, but it was tight. Saw the cabin light come on, got in, tried again. Same thing. All looks good until I try to turn it over, then electrical dies, just as before.

Jumped in my Acura and found this guide at work, I'll give the troubleshooting you posted when I get home.

Any preliminary guesses?
Does the dash light up with the ignition in position 2 and go out in the start position?
That would point to an ignition switch problem.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:59 AM   #59
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Does the dash light up with the ignition in position 2 and go out in the start position?
That would point to an ignition switch problem.

X2 if there is no engine light for sure.




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Old 04-05-2014, 10:19 AM   #60
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Checking battery voltage at the underhood jumper terminals. In this case full voltage was present.



Checking battery voltage at fuse 29 while starting, this is the ignition switch input to the DME.

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