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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-30-2016, 09:48 PM   #21
jfoj
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Read this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Forget about disconnecting the battery, this will not really do much for your problem.

Only getting 1/4 cup of fuel out of the test port seems a big low, the residual fuel pressure should be about 40 PSI and I would expect to get more than 1/4 cup of fuel.

Every E46 really needs a replacement fuel pump at this point in time anyway.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 03-31-2016, 12:48 AM   #22
hatetolovee46
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200k miles on my original fuel pump

For me at least, AAA is cheaper than replacing working parts

It will likely fail soon fwiw
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:09 PM   #23
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[QUOTE=hatetolovee46;16939342

I rarely advocate replacing parts that are still working unless obviously worn without diagnosing them as faulty first. A large percentage of fuel pumps replaced by shops is actually faulty wiring to them and they fix it during install and don't tell you.

[/QUOTE]

This makes me upset cause this is what leaves ppl stranded is advice like this. Like jfog says. if you are on orig pump and filter it is time for replacement. whether its "diagnosed faulty" or not.
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:10 PM   #24
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read this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

forget about disconnecting the battery, this will not really do much for your problem.

Only getting 1/4 cup of fuel out of the test port seems a big low, the residual fuel pressure should be about 40 psi and i would expect to get more than 1/4 cup of fuel.

every e46 really needs a replacement fuel pump at this point in time anyway.
+1
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:18 PM   #25
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Okay it's official, I have about 50 psi at the rail. Should I look into a Crank position sensor?
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:24 PM   #26
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200k miles on my original fuel pump

For me at least, AAA is cheaper than replacing working parts

It will likely fail soon fwiw
What if you're stranded and have to be somewhere important in short time? Or while in the left lane of the turnpike with nowhere to pull over?
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:26 PM   #27
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This is great input guys but I'm really trying to get my car started
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:28 PM   #28
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Does the tach move when you crank the engine? Should register 150-200 RPM.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k7tmin8qek...4_056.mp4?dl=0

Starting fluid is the best test for fuel problems, but you may have even flooded the engine as well.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

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Old 03-31-2016, 01:30 PM   #29
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Yes the tach does bump up to about 200 rpm
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:37 PM   #30
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Not likely the crank sensors.

Starting fluid, rule out flooded engine, check for spark, check fuses in DME box under the hood. Make sure if any fuses were removed before or during troubleshooting, you make sure they are in the proper location.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 03-31-2016, 01:38 PM   #31
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you may have even flooded the engine as well.
This was my first thought when reading this thread. Ensure that you're not flooded before throwing parts at it. These engines flood relatively easily, and by cranking on it you'll just throw more fuel into the cylinders and increase the cylinder wall washdown. Start simple, then move on to sensors and such.

How much have you tried cranking it since the no-start? If you only tried a couple times, put the pedal to the floor while cranking the car - this shuts off the injectors, allowing the engine to (hopefully) burn off the residual fuel and fire up. If you've done it a number of times, squirt a little bit of oil into each cylinder (like less than a teaspoon), replace the plugs and coils, then try starting with the pedal to the floor. The oil in the cylinders will help reestablish compression if you've washed down the cylinder walls with too much fuel.
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:39 PM   #32
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I'm pulling the plugs now, I don't have a compression tester, how could I tell if engine is flooded
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:45 PM   #33
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I'm pulling the plugs now, I don't have a compression tester, how could I tell if engine is flooded
If they're soggy with fuel, that's a good indication
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:47 PM   #34
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you have no code? If the car cranks but doesn't start look at your RPM gauge, does it go up to about 200 rpm from 0? if so the crank sensor is working.

The fuel pump will not always prime if pressure is up, that is why you hear it intermittently.

No codes?

Is your car at or near 1/4 tank of gas? I ask this because this happens to some cars. the fuel transfer from one side of the tank to the other doesn't happen so the passengers side of the tank goes dry while the drivers side is full. this causes a crank but no start condition.

The sucking jet pump must be attached to the Driver's side fuel level sending housing because this is the return line for the car which aids in the movement of fuel from one side to the other (along with a strong fuel pump) so make sure it is attached, if the tab to lock it in is broken you need to replace the sending unit.
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Old 03-31-2016, 01:49 PM   #35
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Awesome guys thanks so much. Luckily the gas tank is nearly full so that rules out the suckling jet pump.
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:20 PM   #36
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DO NOT open up the fuel tank to look at the sucking jet pump, they NEVER come loose or have problems unless someone has screwed around with them.

Read these threads on flooded engines, also make sure the battery is strong. I would not pull plugs yet, to you can clear a flooded engine from the drivers seat -

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1063462

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1069117
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:28 PM   #37
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Pulled plugs. They don't SEEM soggy or wet or saturated but what do I know.
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:34 PM   #38
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They seem a bit old though. Would old start plugs cause this type of sudden no start??
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:41 PM   #39
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Quote:
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DO NOT open up the fuel tank to look at the sucking jet pump, they NEVER come loose or have problems unless someone has screwed around with them.
I will disagree with you this time, I once had an issue and found several guys who have had the hard plastic hose off the sender. I lifted mine (driver's side sender) and found it just barely on, not clipped so me not being the original owner I did not know this until I had an issue on hard turns or hard acceleration. If he is the original owner then it will be good for him.

I had the crank and no start issue once, clipped on the hard line to sender and never had an issue again with it.

But irrelevant now since he mentioned he has a full tank and car cranks with no start.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:33 PM   #40
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So I added small amounts of oil to the cylinders and the car sounded like it wanted to turn over for a little bit, compression?
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