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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 03-31-2016, 02:37 PM   #41
jfoj
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Jump start and hold throttle to the floor while cranking. Read the 2 links I posted.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:38 PM   #42
Mr325ci
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Okay I'll try the jump start, I read both of them thanks a ton great information.
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Old 03-31-2016, 03:02 PM   #43
Mr325ci
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Tried jump starting/cranking for about 20 seconds each attempt, nothing yet
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Old 03-31-2016, 04:18 PM   #44
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What if you're stranded and have to be somewhere important in short time? Or while in the left lane of the turnpike with nowhere to pull over?
1) I'll call a taxi with the money I saved
2) The very unlikely event it dies in left lane WITH a barrier(uncommon around me) and coasting is insufficient to get to safe spot is the best arguement for spending the 150 bucks. My last two e46s were due for a FP as well, 180k and 199k on dash's both original, first died from auto tran failure after i put 45k on it(last auto tran i'll ever own) second from a multitude of things mainly subframe failure after putting 70k in it. Replaceing the fp's on those would have set me back 300 and gained only the peace of mind this wouldn't have happened.(600 if i had shops do it which i would not have)

I've had to tow a car of mine twice in the last 10 years, and since one of them was because the wiring to the fuel pump itself was frayed(Chipmunk thought it would be nice to live above my fuel tank when i let car sit for a week and chewed on wire) this would have happened with a new fp same as old.

I get it reccomended maintance is to replace FP, they will eventually die, and there is a chance to leave you stranded or in an unsafe spot. There is always this risk on cars(fuel pump wiring, cam position sensor, electrical fault) however this is one replacement that will reduce that small risk. Decide yourself if you want to replace it on time is your car.

Last edited by hatetolovee46; 03-31-2016 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 03-31-2016, 06:15 PM   #45
Mr325ci
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Hooking the battery up to a charger tonight, started running low from cranking. When it's fully charged tomorrow I'll put it back in and try Jumpstarting the car with the throttle all the way down
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:33 PM   #46
hatetolovee46
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Does throttle to floor do something other than ensure full command for fuel supply is being sent jfoj? I.e. tries to fire up extra lean or something?

If that doesnt work id advise following my checks posted on last page mr325i
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Old 03-31-2016, 10:51 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatetolovee46 View Post
Does throttle to floor do something other than ensure full command for fuel supply is being sent jfoj? I.e. tries to fire up extra lean or something?

If that doesnt work id advise following my checks posted on last page mr325i
Common industry practice is for "Wide Open Throttle" (WOT) during cranking will shut off fuel injectors, ie injectors are not triggered, and does not provide fuel to the engine. This is called a "Clear Flood Mode" and goes back to the earliest days of electronic fuel injection systems in the 1980's.

Some people claim that these engines do not have a "Clear Flood Mode" because it is not explicitly stated in BMW training materials, I have never bothered to check for sure, but if you read through MANY of the flooded engine cases, most, if not all were started usually in 3 cranking attempts with WOT. So real world feedback indicates WOT works in most cases. I usually say 30 seconds cranking, 2-3 minutes rest to allow the starter to cool and the battery to stabilize, usually by the 3rd attempt, most of the flooded engines will start, some may take a 4th attempt.

If the engine shows no life or attempting to kick during this process, usually there is another problem like no spark or no signals from cam and/or crank to trigger coils and injectors. I can confirm a strong battery is also required for this to be successful.

Once the engine starts, it is often running very rough with misfiring and sometimes Fuel Cut Off, but you want to run the engine at 1500-2000 RPM to clear the fuel out of the engine and allow it to warm up for a few minutes, then you can shut the engine off and restart it if there is still misfiring. Usually shutting the engine off and restarting it after 15 seconds will clear any Misfire with Fuel Cut Off.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:43 AM   #48
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Okay guys. So I have a fully charged battery in the car and added small amounts of oil to the cylinders. Cleaned the plugs and put them back in, and I am attempting to jump start the car with 30 second crank attempts. I haven't gotten anything yet and I'm super confused on what to do next..
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:49 PM   #49
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Bought a compression tester today
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:38 PM   #50
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Quote:
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So much bad or not great information/advice in this thread. For the record its fairly simple:

No Crank No start==>
1)Check starter for 12v supply on main wire (verifies voltage supply)
2) check that signal wire has 12v when key hits crank position (verifies starter gets signal to open solenoid and connect the 12v supply)
3) check that the starter body and bolts(grounds to engine which grounds to chasis) has less than .5v to ground during crank attempt. (verifies start has ground connection for path of entering electrons(electrons actually travel from negative to positive believe it or not, + is a dearth of electrons in that area and they "rush in" to fill it, or arc to fill it)
4) Turn engine over manually with a breaker bar to ensure engine is not seized
5) If all four tests pass pull and bench test starter and starter will likely test bad

With no crank no start ONE of these tests MUST fail, there is no alternative

For no start with crank:
1)Check fuel pressure on fuel rail and that plugs are wet after crank attempt(30 bucks for fuel pressure gauge) (verifies pistons are getting fuel)
2) Check for spark with cheap spark plug tester(10 bucks) (verifies combustion chamber getting spark)
3) Check compression with cheap compression test kit(30 bucks) (Verifies compression is occuring in the combustion chambers)
4) check for air supply(??? idk on this one would be rarest of the three but you can figure it out if its all thats left) (verifies o2 for combustion to occur is getting to chamber)

For no start with crank one of these things MUST be absent there is no alternative

Serious use these steps first, second you coulda rented a compression tester
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:39 PM   #51
Mr325ci
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The plugs don't seem to be getting saturated in fuel at all, although fuel pressure is verified st the rail
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:41 PM   #52
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When my 325's camshaft position sensor was failing, I had starting problems and no CEL; this seems like what your problem might be. I think it took me about 50 - 100 miles of driving before it ever threw an engine code (which was then easy to diagnose -- BTW, the error was a sensor undervoltage, making it worse to detect, since it's sporadic).
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:49 PM   #53
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Interesting. Well if all of these tests fail I'll definitely check that next
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:09 PM   #54
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I have somewhat of the same problem and Im pretty sure it has to do with the fuel supply at dme or ecu. not sure at this point but she will start up with a squirt of starter fluid. Next I going to test the fuel injectors for signal.... any thoughts????
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:41 PM   #55
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I have somewhat of the same problem and Im pretty sure it has to do with the fuel supply at dme or ecu. not sure at this point but she will start up with a squirt of starter fluid. Next I going to test the fuel injectors for signal.... any thoughts????
Yeah don't thread hijack 1, and 2 read the posts in this thread...
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:54 PM   #56
Mr325ci
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Starter fluid revved the engine so I guess it started. So I have spark, I have fuel (at the rail) but it seems like the injectors are not firing. I'm going to five them a listen once it stops raining.
Thoughts????
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:54 PM   #57
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Give*
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Old 04-09-2016, 02:30 PM   #58
hatetolovee46
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What is your psi at the rail...
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Old 04-09-2016, 02:36 PM   #59
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Will the fuel in the rail burn??

Either contaminated fuel or for some reason the injectors are not triggering assuming you really have proper fuel pressure.

Do you have power on the injectors?

Might be worth checking fuses again and make sure they are all in the proper location.

Cannot recall, do you have another key you can try?

So sad if this turns out to be a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay problem.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 04-09-2016 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 04-09-2016, 03:12 PM   #60
hatetolovee46
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Will the fuel in the rail burn??

Either contaminated fuel or for some reason the injectors are not triggering assuming you really have proper fuel pressure.

Do you have power on the injectors?

Might be worth checking fuses again and make sure they are all in the proper location.

Cannot recall, do you have another key you can try?

So sad if this turns out to be a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay problem.
If it was key issue jfoj wouldn't a immobilizer light come on or just not crank at all? Just curious here I like learning new things.
+1 to checking power to injects, and +1 to "proper fuel pressure"(check the damn psi and know exactly...)
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