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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 11-06-2016, 07:42 PM   #41
lingon300k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BartenderPlease View Post
Very nice. I just did this and only removed the upper intake boot and loosened the harness junction box. 20 minutes start to clean up. Thank you!
You're welcome! Situations like yours are exactly the reason I'm modifying this and moving it over to my site. The overall description I gave was too complicated, and I want to modify it to include all possible methods instead of just notes here and there. That, and the pictures aren't all as good I would like for them be.
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:25 AM   #42
matt270avian
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Just did this while I swapped to the 3.0 intake manifold. We'll see how it holds up I suppose....
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:55 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by lingon300k View Post
You're welcome! Situations like yours are exactly the reason I'm modifying this and moving it over to my site. The overall description I gave was too complicated, and I want to modify it to include all possible methods instead of just notes here and there. That, and the pictures aren't all as good I would like for them be.
Your description was very clear and easy. Not complicated, but thorough.

The only reason I did not remove the other parts is because I am not about to get into that right now with all of my other home & immediate car projects I have on hand.

And when I say get in to that, when I work on anything again in the manifold area, I am removing it complete, replacing the CCV or doing a nice catch can setup, and replacing a leaky VANOS oil line. OFHG gets replaced while it is easy as well, but it has not started to leak yet. Nor will it ever.

I'll check the plastic coolant lines. Not sure if I should replace as preventative maintenance or not...that means coolant system flush. the list will never end.
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Last edited by BartenderPlease; 11-07-2016 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:13 PM   #44
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great write up!
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:49 AM   #45
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Well, after 500 miles my oil light came back on tonight. Doesn't look like the O2Pilot mod is working for me as of now. I haven't poked around in the engine bay yet to really see what's going on or to inspect my vacuum line though.

Hoping that my issue is just vacuum hose related. If somehow it popped off (highly doubtful, probably near impossible) then I'll have to wait another 500 miles to see what's going on with it. Otherwise, if everything checks out, I guess the CCV is in dire need of replacement. Odd, as the system didn't appear visually dry rotted and I tested my vacuum on the oil fill cap by loosening and pulling off the cap with the engine running. Really hoping to resolve this soon. I'm tired of taking off those intake boots and removing the cabin air filter housing.

Will post back with updates.
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Old 11-13-2016, 10:31 AM   #46
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I'm sorry it didn't work.

It's possible that it just didn't work in your situation, but the other possibility is that it isn't holding vacuum due to a leak. After the engine has been running for a bit, turn it off and remove the oil filler cap. If it's a bit difficult to remove, and you hear a small amount of hissing when you turn it and release the vacuum, then it's probably working. If it just comes right off without any problem, and there wasn't any built up vacuum, then it's very possible you need to replace the CCV or its hoses, or the valve cover gasket or something.
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Old 11-13-2016, 11:41 AM   #47
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I've got about 500 miles on mine after the mod and oil consumption seems to have dropped to near zero.
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Old 11-13-2016, 12:11 PM   #48
lingon300k
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I'm glad it's working!

500 miles might be a bit too early to tell, though. Were you using a lot of oil over that same mileage before you did it?
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Old 11-13-2016, 12:34 PM   #49
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I was doing a quart in 12-1500 so at 500 I could see it down on the stick.
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Old 11-13-2016, 02:55 PM   #50
hodgkinsc330ci
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Originally Posted by lingon300k View Post
I'm sorry it didn't work.

It's possible that it just didn't work in your situation, but the other possibility is that it isn't holding vacuum due to a leak. After the engine has been running for a bit, turn it off and remove the oil filler cap. If it's a bit difficult to remove, and you hear a small amount of hissing when you turn it and release the vacuum, then it's probably working. If it just comes right off without any problem, and there wasn't any built up vacuum, then it's very possible you need to replace the CCV or its hoses, or the valve cover gasket or something.
Wishful thinking had me hope that it wasn't the CCV, but I've known this is likely the case since the oil light came on. I'll have to search for any leaks too, but I'm 99% sure I'm leak free. Replaced VCG back in May and always check around the engine bay and on the ground for leaks. I know the OFHG is good too. Anyways, I'll just have to check around.

CCV probably needs replacing anyways. Looks to be original. I just really didn't want to take all that $h!t out of the engine bay again and spend $80 on the CCV kit. Such is the life of owning an E46.

Oh yeah, and I'll have to try that oil filler cap test again. I think I remember it holding vacuum when I first did the mod, but I'll try again to see what's going on. Thanks again for your advice Lingon.
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[BMW Motors] Advertising has somehow convinced people that they're different. That they're made by magical Dachshunds who only eat special bratwursts made by virgins in an undisclosed magical spot inside of the black forest that can only be accessed via a special hydrogen powered BMW helicopter.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:46 PM   #51
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That port on the ccv that you are using? Should it always be capped? I just bought a new ccv for my 330ci and on this one it isn't.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:52 PM   #52
lingon300k
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That port on the ccv that you are using? Should it always be capped? I just bought a new ccv for my 330ci and on this one it isn't.
Yes, it should always be capped. The new CCV doesn't come with a cap, so you have to transfer the old cap to the new one.
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Old 11-30-2016, 04:57 AM   #53
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oke, thanks for the reply. hopefully my oil burner will burn a bit less after i changed the CCV and cleaned my dip stick channel.
otherwise, i need to keep this in mind! thanks!
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:25 AM   #54
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It's been two months since I did this mod and the oil light hasn't come on yet, before I had to add a liter every week. This is tremendous. Everyone who is burning oil should be doing it.
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Old 11-30-2016, 05:30 AM   #55
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That port on the ccv that you are using? Should it always be capped? I just bought a new ccv for my 330ci and on this one it isn't.
What brand is it?
The original CCV units sold at the US dealers are capped. I wouldn't like to have to reuse the old vacuum port cap.
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:46 PM   #56
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I did a piston soak over a week ago, and afterward I changed the oil from Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 (w/ Liqui Moly MoS2) to Castrol Edge 0w40. After the piston soak, and 600 miles on the new oil, the level hasn't even gone down a millimeter on the dipstick. It's still sitting roughly 2mm above the full mark, right where I left it. I'll post again once I'm at 2k miles on the new oil.

It looks like the "02 Pilot mod" + piston soak might be a good combo for reducing oil consumption.

I'm already planning to clean up/rewrite this DIY and post it on my own site with more pictures, and I will add the piston soak as a recommendation along with it if I get to 2k miles and it's at the same spot.

Last edited by lingon300k; 12-09-2016 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 12-10-2016, 07:24 PM   #57
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Hello all,

I did the O2 Pilot Mod this afternoon as I too have struggled with high oil consumption over the past 9 months or so.

In March I replaced the CCV with a winterized version and in May I performed a piston soak using AC Delco X66P. Both helped with the oil consumption issue but only marginally. Whereas before I needed to add a liter of oil every 200-300 miles, after performing both of these that interval extended to around 800-900 miles. The CCV change definitely contributed more to this improvement--the difference after the CCV (which was done first) was far more pronounced than after the piston soak.

Having done O2 Pilot mod today, I noticed the following: while it is possible to connect a vacuum line to the capped CCV port without removing the throttle body on standard CCVs, for the winterized CCV (which is wrapped in foam insulation), I found that getting to the port required removing the throttle body. Certainly not deal breaker for anyone competent enough to do this job, just something to be aware of if anyone is having trouble.

That said, I am having trouble of my own. During the course of this mod I took apart the intake system down to the manifold. I cleaned the throttle body and the idle control valve with carburetor cleaner. I inspected the intake boot segments and they were free of cracks. I did not replace the O-rings for either the throttle body or the DISA as these were replaced in March when I removed the entire manifold to replace the CCV. I got everything back together but when I started my car afterward the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with EML, SES, and traction triangle lights (!). The idle also fluctuated wildly from 400 to almost 1,400 RPM. The car is not driveable in this condition.

I connected my code reader which indicated lean codes for both banks as well as throttle position sensor errors. I'm thinking this must be an intake leak somewhere and admittedly I kind of rushed putting the intake boot sections/airbox back together--which makes me think maybe some section of the boot isn't properly connected. Either that or the throttle body and DISA O-rings need replacing again. Are they single-use items like some crush washers? Did anyone else have any such hiccups doing this mod? At this point my plan is to tear down the intake back to the throttle body again and rebuild more carefully, just wondering if anyone had similar problems with this. Also wondering if maybe my cleaning of the idle control valve or throttle body could have damaged either--I used the same procedure as in March and had no problem then. But the throttle position sensor code concerns me. Lean codes--almost definitely a leak in some rubber or plastic part. But the throttle position sensor code--could I have messed up the throttle body?

Also, any possibility the new vacuum line running from the CCV to the unused port on the manifold (the O2 Pilot mod itself) is the cause? I'm just disturbed because the last time I did this I took off the whole manifold, which was a much bigger job (involving disconnecting the fuel rail etc.) and the intake tract went back together without issue. Please help!
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Old 12-10-2016, 10:39 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by mattthecoxcomb View Post
Also wondering if maybe my cleaning of the idle control valve or throttle body could have damaged either--I used the same procedure as in March and had no problem then. But the throttle position sensor code concerns me. Lean codes--almost definitely a leak in some rubber or plastic part. But the throttle position sensor code--could I have messed up the throttle body?
Don't know how aggressive you got with the cleaning, but unless you smacked or bent or forced the butterfly valve, cleaning shouldn't cause a problem.

How is your ICV grommet? It's easy to get a leak around the ICV since it isn't bolted to the intake, it floats on the grommet. Make sure it got shoved all the way in when you put it on. Also make sure you got all of the connectors plugged back in correctly, which is one way to get lots of codes quickly.

You should be able to test the difference between mod and no mod by pinching closed the mod tube somewhere.


BTW, lingon, good writeup, I'm going to do this mod when I replace my old crusty and ill fitting ICV grommet I was in there today and it looks like I can do it with just some 3.5mm tubing, since I have a small port free and capped on the back of the manifold. Going to try to route the hose above the ICV as I think that's the shortest distance. I'll report back in a few weeks or so.

I think this can be done without removing the TB (if, say, you've already cleaned it recently or just don' t want to) if you remove the ICV. I haven't tried it yet, and it might depend on the size of your hands, but here's a pic to show what I mean:
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Last edited by dothehundo; 12-11-2016 at 01:41 PM. Reason: added pic
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Old 12-10-2016, 11:38 PM   #59
edwin.colo
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Matt, I doubt the O2 Pilot Mod is what cause issues you are experienced.
I would take back everything you took off leaving the throttle body installed and double check your work. Make sure every vacuum hose/connector is in the right spot. If you just recently replaced the o-rings that is probably not the issue.
Good luck.


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Old 12-11-2016, 11:24 AM   #60
lingon300k
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Also, any possibility the new vacuum line running from the CCV to the unused port on the manifold (the O2 Pilot mod itself) is the cause? I'm just disturbed because the last time I did this I took off the whole manifold, which was a much bigger job (involving disconnecting the fuel rail etc.) and the intake tract went back together without issue. Please help!
There's no way that the modification in and of itself caused the problem, but it's possible that the increased vacuum exposed a problem and opened up a vacuum leak.

Many of the things you listed are a possibility. I would start with the DISA and intake boots.

Last edited by lingon300k; 12-11-2016 at 11:25 AM.
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