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Old 11-04-2016, 05:52 AM   #1
eforer
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Mechanical Over-Rev

I was in 3rd, went to shift into 4th at about 5500rpm and I shifted into 2nd... Don't know how or why I have never done this and car instantly lurched and looked like it hit over 7k... Instantly pushed clutch in couldn't have been more than a second.

I coasted in neutral and engine was idling normal until I came to a stop. It dropped down to 500-600 and the CEL came on. Exhaust sounds pulsy. Thinking I bent an exhaust valve.

Anyone else have experience with this?

Car only has 108kms on it and I really don't wanna have to swap a new engine.

I have decent wrenching skills but I'm no where near taking off the head and inspecting my cylinders or valves. Hoping I didn't press a valve into a cylinder.

Would I be better off swapping a 3.0 in? The cost of taking the head off inspecting valves and cylinder head I might as well swap a 3.0 in.


I feel like an idiot, I haven't stalled or missed a shift in ages

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Old 11-04-2016, 06:01 AM   #2
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If something does not sound normal, then you have guaranteed damaged.
Swaping new "old" engine will be cheaaper than a head repair.
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:46 AM   #3
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Normally I would say give it a compression test, BUT....


It's very clear that you bent most (or some) of the exhaust valves. Certainly if YOU have the mechanical skills to pull the head off yourself, this would be the least expensive way to go. You'll need several new/used exhaust valves, you'll also see impact marks on some pistons, don't worry about this.



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Old 11-04-2016, 08:12 AM   #4
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Anyone else have experience with this?
Search for the term "Money Shift"!
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Old 11-04-2016, 08:45 AM   #5
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Search for the term "Money Shift"!
+1

Usually it's folks going for 5th and ending up in 3rd... Worn shifter bushings and the perennial shift pin problem don't help.
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:01 AM   #6
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Certainly it couldn't hurt to read the codes and do a compression test. While you're doing the compression test you could slip a boroscope into the cylinders to see if you can find anything. Autozone rents all of those tools, you just put down a deposit when you pick them up and get that deposit back when you return them. All it will cost you is your time in the end.
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Old 11-04-2016, 11:32 AM   #7
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I almost money-shifted once. Luckily I hit the clutch pedal as soon as I realized what was happening with the feel of the car compared too the clutch pedal's position. Quick reflexes saved me.



Most likely: your head need to be removed and inspected. Valves need to be inspected/replcaed. Guides with the bent valves need to be inspected/replaced. Head will be milled and probably pressure tested for cracks as standard procedure.

If you R&I the head, you are going to end up cheaper than an engine swap, including renting BMW tools. If you are keeping this car as long as possible, you may as well rebuild the VANOS while it is all apart.

If you have a shop handle everything, start seeing how cheaply you can do a m54b30 swap with the correct tune. The problem will be doing it cheap with the low miles like you have.
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Old 11-04-2016, 12:32 PM   #8
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I just want to get this straight:

In an M52/54, pulling the head requires removing the cams, and removing the cams requires a special tool - is this correct? Or can it be done without a special tool? I know that on the toyota 3fse motor, toyota recommended a special tool as well, but I was able to remove cams and swap heads without damaging the cams. But... totally different motor...
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Old 11-04-2016, 12:39 PM   #9
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AFAIK you can do it without a special tool but it is very fragile. So you have to be really really careful. relieve tension on fasteners evenly a little at a time
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Old 11-04-2016, 08:28 PM   #10
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Okay little update. I have the car going to the mechanic in a few days. He's going to run the codes, compression test and inspect for damage with a scope if necessary. I explained the lumpy exhaust and he seemed to think I may have plugged a cat or blown out the CCV. I did the suction test on the oil cap, and it seemed as if the CCV has gone.

Link to video:


Exhaust sound:


Hoping that I get lucky on this one and it's just the CCV.

Last edited by eforer; 11-04-2016 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Links
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Old 11-05-2016, 03:05 AM   #11
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I remember being in 2nd gear and instead of shifting into 3rd I shifted into 1st, The car went sideways like i pulled the ebrake, Luckily no damage
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Old 11-05-2016, 08:42 AM   #12
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Went from 6th to 2nd at 80ish mph few weeks after owning. Bent valves and had them all replaced. 1200 to fix at the time (5 years ago). If it happens again which it wont I could diy it.
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Old 11-05-2016, 08:44 AM   #13
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That sounded like it was not running on all 6 cylinders. Compression test will confirm all. Good luck but still think youve bent.valves.
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Old 11-05-2016, 09:20 AM   #14
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I almost money shifted 3rd the other day. Quickly realized what had been done, and stomped the clutch. It still had to red line. I think the only thing that saved me was that I wasn't running 4th gear out, just getting to speed on the highway.

I have hard mounts, new 5th gear pins, and new shift bushings. Just wasn't paying enough attention,
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Old 11-05-2016, 11:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tristero View Post
I just want to get this straight:

In an M52/54, pulling the head requires removing the cams, and removing the cams requires a special tool - is this correct? Or can it be done without a special tool? I know that on the toyota 3fse motor, toyota recommended a special tool as well, but I was able to remove cams and swap heads without damaging the cams. But... totally different motor...
At least on the M54, you can pull the head without pulling the cams and pull the cams with care without a special tool. You need a special tool to re-time the vanos if you've removed either the head or cams.
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Old 11-05-2016, 03:13 PM   #16
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Isn't there supposed to be some sort of Rev Limiter? (If that's what it's called)


edit: Since this "Money Shift" happens so often, it's obvious there isn't any, Why?

Last edited by IceWhite; 11-05-2016 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 11-05-2016, 03:19 PM   #17
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Isn't there supposed to be some sort of Rev Limiter? (If that's what it's called)
A rev limiter won't prevent an overrev caused by a money shift. In other words, it's not the gas pedal provoking the overrev, it's the drive wheels.
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Old 11-05-2016, 03:30 PM   #18
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^OK, now that makes sense.
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:04 PM   #19
eforer
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Scanned the code, only one came up

P1353
Misfire cylinder 6 with fuel cutoff

Have I bent an exhaust valve in cylinder 6?

Or maybe a spark plug has been fouled due to the CCV dying and engine may be eating oil?
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Old 11-05-2016, 07:08 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by eforer View Post
Scanned the code, only one came up

P1353
Misfire cylinder 6 with fuel cutoff

Have I bent an exhaust valve in cylinder 6?

Or maybe a spark plug has been fouled due to the CCV dying and engine may be eating oil?
Codes really won't tell you anything in this case. You need to do a compression test as a first step as previously mentioned by others.
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