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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 09-14-2013, 02:54 PM   #21
Drew@Swift Motorworks
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Nice ingenuity, I think you might have some trouble working that tool around the exhaust pipes though. I hope I'm wrong though
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:53 PM   #22
carl0s
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Originally Posted by Drew@Swift Motorworks View Post
Nice ingenuity, I think you might have some trouble working that tool around the exhaust pipes though. I hope I'm wrong though
I was under the car today fitting the gearbox, and it looks like you could be right (I didn't actually check though), but if so I think I could possibly just downsize that flat bar a little bit, or grind a curve into its side or something to allow it to fit into position against the pipe.

I'll report back as and when I attempt the job anyway. Still got half the engine in bits.
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #23
Cavi Mike
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LOL @ rusty bolts thread.

Friggin SoCal pansies. ALL the hardware on a car in the north looks like that.
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Old 09-21-2013, 02:29 PM   #24
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Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried the Loctite Freeze & Release pentrating oil? I had very good success on using that on the control arm ball joints. I replaced these 4 studs on my E39, there was a lot of drillin & cussin involved.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:38 AM   #25
carl0s
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Just out of curiosity, has anyone tried the Loctite Freeze & Release pentrating oil? I had very good success on using that on the control arm ball joints. I replaced these 4 studs on my E39, there was a lot of drillin & cussin involved.
No but I do have a can of it. Will let you know if its of any use.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:03 AM   #26
carl0s
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Nice ingenuity, I think you might have some trouble working that tool around the exhaust pipes though. I hope I'm wrong though
You're right. The square bar needs to be half its current depth. I started cutting it with a slightly worn hacksaw and decided I definitely can't be bothered with that today!!
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:12 PM   #27
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You're right. The square bar needs to be half its current depth. I started cutting it with a slightly worn hacksaw and decided I definitely can't be bothered with that today!!
Actually I've just had a great idea. BRB!
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:31 PM   #28
carl0s
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This is where I thought I was going to have to hack-saw the bar down the middle so that it would fit in place. I started hacksawing with an old blade and decided I really could not be bothered.
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

Then I thought about bench-grinding a recess into the side of the bar so that it would fit in place, and it worked out perfectly!
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

The modified bar (part of a steering wheel puller kit).
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

Final test-fit (after a few trips to and from the grinder).

As you can see, this isn't a sheared-off stud. It has rough threads that I could have just run a chaser over, but I do have sheared-off studs on my other manifold that's stuck under the car, so this is just a practice run.

In a few minutes it becomes apparent that the studs need cutting a bit shorter anyway to actually slide them out of the flange because the catalytic converter gets in the way.
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

You can see how it fits around the catalytic converter.
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

Time to give it a go!
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

After heating the flange around the stud a bit, it was very easy to push the stud out - a child could have done it.
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

All done. Except, the stud won't slide out because the catalytic converter is in the way!
I will shorten the stud with a hacksaw so it can be taken out, and refit with nuts & bolts.
Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

Pushing out exhaust midpipe manivertor studs on BMW

On the other side of the flange, the o2/lambda sensor will get in the way, so that will have to be removed.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:52 PM   #29
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You went through all that trouble to salvage $5 worth of hardware? You've got to be kidding me.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:55 PM   #30
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You went through all that trouble to salvage $5 worth of hardware? You've got to be kidding me.
What do you mean? I have sheared studs on the other manifold. I can't re-attach my exhaust system until I remove the studs.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:45 PM   #31
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I just finished removing the broken studs on my v8's other manifold.

They were quite a bit more stubborn, and certainly took a lot more effort. They didn't easily push out after little heat. When did they come out, they popped out fairly violently.

Before starting you really do need to cut the studs off just below their thread, primarily so that you can apply enough pressure on them without them just bending, and secondly, so that you can remove them out the other side.

This is perfect:
bmw manifold midpipe studs again
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:11 AM   #32
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Nice work fellas. I am looking forward to taking out my exhaust manifold next week and Im hoping you guys could give me some tips. By the looks of it, I may need to take out the air control pump just to give me more space to work with in taking out the nuts by the heat shield. TIA
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:21 PM   #33
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I just went thru this today at my brothers garage.
we soaked with pb blaster [im gonna order some aerokroil yet], but still two studs broke on the flange on the pass side.

what should have been a couple hours at most installing my new exhaust turned into almost 6 hours to finish.

I know it took us 4 hours to drill those two studs out, [my brother was too stubborn to drive me the 30 miles back to my house or the store for new bits] after we had dulled every bit he had and then some, we resharpened a few with a drill doctor and finally got those studs out.

I wish I had searched here for this topic first, would have bought double the amount of drill bits, it was a tough job I will say that.......

we tried the freeze stuff, which had worked on broken manifold studs on my Toyota landcruiser a couple months ago, but it didn't help.

oh well, live and learn to research EVERYTHING, cause I just never dreamed the blue car would have a tough time with frozen stuck parts.
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:09 PM   #34
seaniekaye
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I am concerned about getting these apart... I need to take this all out to get to my guibo and center bearing. Despite all the praise for pb blaster, I think this could be a disaster.

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Old 05-26-2014, 01:11 PM   #35
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^^ for that, I would just take it to muffler shop to remove nuts.
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:14 PM   #36
seaniekaye
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I read that you want to replace the gaskets any time you disturb that connection, so I bought new gaskets - before I saw that mess. My brother suggested I take them in saying "oh I just need these installed.. no biggie.."
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Old 11-02-2014, 08:18 AM   #37
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Just did this job. Pita of a job to remove the studs. Replaced the studs with bolts and nuts that are stainless steel.

However it now sounds like there is an exhaust leak from the manifold right below the cat. Is it possible to crack the welds when beating the studs out of the flange ?
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Old 11-06-2014, 06:14 AM   #38
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I suppose anything is possible, but the more likely issue is the exhaust gases are leaking around one or both of the gaskets. One of the things I noticed was that when the old gasket is removed, there is rust & other debris on the flange surfaces. I used a Flap sander on a small angle grinder to clean up both of the surfaces and then used new gaskets. If that doesn't work, a thin layer of High Temp RTV should resolve the issue. Use the O2 sensor-safe variety even though that really shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 05-02-2015, 05:42 PM   #39
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So I am in the process of doing this now (car is on jack stands). I have a e46 330ci. I already sheered off one of the four studs right below the nut. Is it correct to assume that If I 'sheer' off the remaining three studs below the nut, the pipe should seperate from the header flange? Then i should proceed with the drill out method?
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:07 PM   #40
djdonis
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Has any of you tried the induction heating tool for heating the exhaust flange nuts - worked like a charm for me.
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