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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 04-27-2015, 09:52 PM   #21
Patton323I
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Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by lllRazorlll View Post
Thanks for updating the links
Not a problem. Make sure you double check your part application. The links to those parts are for a sedan only. They are not compatible with a coupe. Happy DIY-ing!
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Old 04-30-2015, 08:51 PM   #22
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Are the front doors regulators the black ones and the rear doors regulators the silver ones? When you click on one of the links that's what shows up.

Also, don't the BMW brand regulators hold up a good amount of time to just get those? Not saying I want to spend $500 on window regulators, just trying to see if the aftermarket regulators are just as strong as the BMW brand ones
Not necessarily. I just replaced a front passenger one and it was silver while the old one was black. It just depends on the manufacturer. The OEM regulators are not what I would describe as "strong".
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Old 04-30-2015, 10:10 PM   #23
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Not necessarily. I just replaced a front passenger one and it was silver while the old one was black. It just depends on the manufacturer. The OEM regulators are not what I would describe as "strong".
Okay, so then go with what the OP has listed in his post?
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Old 05-02-2015, 01:03 PM   #24
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has anyone had the crunching sound from the windows when going up or down?

I had this issue, so i replaced it with the regulator from ECS. Within a year, it failed. The cable started getting the crunch sound, and it pretty much snapped. I have owned the car for three years now, and it is the third time I am replacing the regulator. (one from ECS, one from a cheaper Canadian retailer, and now the third from BavAuto). The part I ordered this time was the JL brand.

not really sure what is causing this premature failure. I followed each and every step in detail (in multiple vids posted here) and yet it seem to fail fast. Am I missing something or is it just my darn luck??
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:19 PM   #25
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has anyone had the crunching sound from the windows when going up or down?

I had this issue, so i replaced it with the regulator from ECS. Within a year, it failed. The cable started getting the crunch sound, and it pretty much snapped. I have owned the car for three years now, and it is the third time I am replacing the regulator. (one from ECS, one from a cheaper Canadian retailer, and now the third from BavAuto). The part I ordered this time was the JL brand.

not really sure what is causing this premature failure. I followed each and every step in detail (in multiple vids posted here) and yet it seem to fail fast. Am I missing something or is it just my darn luck??
I've had the same problem a few times now. The only thing I can think of is just the fact that the E46 window regulators aren't that well made. Maybe try hitting the runners with some WD40?
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:08 PM   #26
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I've had the same problem a few times now. The only thing I can think of is just the fact that the E46 window regulators aren't that well made. Maybe try hitting the runners with some WD40?
I tried it already. It just covered the sound for a couple days but it came back. One would think they made an updated part by now lol
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:48 PM   #27
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Don't use WD40, that stuff gums up after a while. White lithium grease and dry silicone. Pull the window completely out and clean it thoroughly. Then clean all the window tracks and apply the dry silicone lubricant.

I changed several regulators in the past and kept having premature failures and the windows were still sluggish to go up and down. After cleaning everything they operate like new with zero sluggishness and binding.

Last edited by 330iPilot; 05-02-2015 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:57 PM   #28
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Don't use WD40, that stuff gums up after a while. White lithium grease and dry silicone. Pull the window completely out and clean it thoroughly. Then clean all the window tracks and apply the dry silicone lubricant.
Yea that's what I used. Lithium grease. I assumed wd40 was the common term for lubricant.

Will a 10 month old regulator even get dirty or grimy enough to cause a failure though? Three in three years sounds like I'm doing something wrong lol
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:01 PM   #29
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Is the reason why the driver's door window makes the air whistling because the window regulator is going bad/not properly adjusted?
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Old 05-08-2015, 11:18 PM   #30
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Yea that's what I used. Lithium grease. I assumed wd40 was the common term for lubricant.

Will a 10 month old regulator even get dirty or grimy enough to cause a failure though? Three in three years sounds like I'm doing something wrong lol
Most of my problems were due to the tracks being dirty So there was a lot friction for the regulator and motor to overcome.
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:06 AM   #31
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do you guys re-align the regulator with the window all the way down ?
Bentley manual suggests you loosen the two outer nuts, put window all the way down, then tighten the nuts.

Last edited by Saintluk2; 05-09-2015 at 11:09 AM. Reason: more clear
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Old 10-28-2015, 01:07 PM   #32
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When you close either of the front two doors with the window completely lowered, does it seem to make a noise as if the glass inside the door is loose or something? I always feel that I have to close the door as gently as possible if I swing it shut because if I shut it too hard I may break something inside
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Old 08-13-2016, 11:31 AM   #33
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Thanks, my driver rear window on 2002 325i made the dreaded cracking noise last night as I was rolling the window up.

FCP Euro only lists a BMW part now, $109: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...46-51358212099
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Old 08-13-2016, 11:39 AM   #34
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Most of my problems were due to the tracks being dirty So there was a lot friction for the regulator and motor to overcome.
So in a moment of desperation, I bought a $30 regulator from eBay. It was supposed to be a temporary fix until I look for and install a better part. (brand was "prime choice" or something).

almost all year after this installation, the part works like a charm. I haven't done anything different from the previous times. For now, I'm happy and I'm leaving it as is lol
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Old 08-13-2016, 04:47 PM   #35
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Sooo the Consensus is to lube with lithium grease ?

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Old 08-14-2016, 04:42 PM   #36
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Okay guys so I have a issue with my gm module I'm 100% sure it's it.......do you guys know a way to manually add voltage into the system to trigger the window up and down movement without removing the door panel ?

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[] Euro Headers [] Euro Cats [] OEM Section 2 AR20[] B&B Exhaust [] AFE Stage 2
Interior:
[] Led Interior [] DICE Module [] Auxilary 3.5 jack [] 4 channel Amp with component speakers.....and more
Suspension/Handling:
[] KW V3 [] Eibach F&R Sways [] Vibratechnics Tranny mount [] UUC RTAB
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[] 90A Akg Subframe Bushings [] Akg Differential Bushings [] Subframe Renforcement

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Old 08-27-2016, 10:46 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by PabloCruise View Post
Thanks, my driver rear window on 2002 325i made the dreaded cracking noise last night as I was rolling the window up.

FCP Euro only lists a BMW part now, $109: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...46-51358212099
I ended up getting regulator from the local dealer to get things in a little faster.

>$120.

I was able to get my window in the closed position by re-routing the up cable and tying it off. Let me know if pics are of interest.
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:39 PM   #38
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I just fixed both my driver and passenger side windows with the zip tie method.

I used a combination of youtube videos and diy guides I found through google:
http://www.skene.org/bmw/window/
http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/showt...x-doityourself


Sure enough, the plastic harness that holds on to the metal cylinder that drives the cable up and down broke off. Four zip ties later, my windows work as good as new!

Local deal wanted over a $1k to fix them when I brought in my car for the airbag recall a few months ago. I told them to f*** off
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Old 08-28-2016, 04:00 PM   #39
cyberlando
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Okay guys so I have a issue with my gm module I'm 100% sure it's it.......do you guys know a way to manually add voltage into the system to trigger the window up and down movement without removing the door panel ?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
Figured it out thanks anyway...

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Engine:
[] Euro Headers [] Euro Cats [] OEM Section 2 AR20[] B&B Exhaust [] AFE Stage 2
Interior:
[] Led Interior [] DICE Module [] Auxilary 3.5 jack [] 4 channel Amp with component speakers.....and more
Suspension/Handling:
[] KW V3 [] Eibach F&R Sways [] Vibratechnics Tranny mount [] UUC RTAB
[] Vibratechnics Motor Mount [] SSBL [] Turner Camber Plates
[] 90A Akg Subframe Bushings [] Akg Differential Bushings [] Subframe Renforcement

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Old 09-04-2016, 12:07 PM   #40
akita328
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ha, 3 years later my left rear regulator broke.. so I get to do this again. hopefully the front ones will stay intact few years more..
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