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Front Control arm bushings install (Pictures/Instructions)

379K views 333 replies 153 participants last post by  Brenda325 
#1 ·
Background info here

http://www.e46fanatics.com/features/feature.php?news_id=40

Use this at your own risk. There might be better ways to do this, but this is what I did.

<p>1. If your car is lower you might need to use ramps to get the jack under the car.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/1.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_1.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>2. Use a floor jack and the center jack point.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/2.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_2.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>3. Put jack stands under the stock jack locations.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/3.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_3.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>4. Remove the wheels.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/4.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_4.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>5. Remove the under engine cover. There are some plastic plugs up front and screws underneath. The screw layout is going to vary depending on model.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/5.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_5.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>6. Drop the engine cover.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/6.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_6.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>7. Here you can see the both the control arm mounts
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/7.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_7.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>8. Drivers sides mount. You can see how the chassis brace is in the way of the rear bolt.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/8.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_8.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>9. Remove the driver***8217;s side bolt for the rear brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/9.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_9.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>10. Remove the front drivers side bolt for the brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/10.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_10.jpg"></a>
</p>
 
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#2 ·
<p>11. Remove the passenger side rear brace.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/11.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_11.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>12. I used a jack to hold the brace up while I was loosening the bolts.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/12.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_12.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>13. Remove the last bolt that is inside the center jack point.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/13.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_13.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>14. Brace is now lose.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/14.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_14.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>15. Here you can see the two bolts that hold the carrier in place. (with brace still installed) we need to remove these.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/15.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_15.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>16. With the bolts removed we need to remove the carrier. I use a Dreamel tool to start cutting the rubber. The bushing is oil filled so have something to catch it.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/16.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_16.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>17. I finished off the cutting with a utility knife.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/17.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_17.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>18. Pull the carrier and outer part of the bushing.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/18.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_18.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>19. Here is the carrier part off the car.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/19.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_19.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>
20. Next we need to remove the rest of the bushing still on the control arm. We will use a three jaw puller. I rented this from AutoZone.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/20.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_20.jpg"></a>
</p>
 
#3 ·
<p>21. Here the three jaw puller is installed on the control arm.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/21.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_21.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>22. The control arm nice and cleaned up.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/22.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_22.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>23. Next we need to press out the bushing. I made a ***8220;tool***8221; out of a 2 ½***8221; pipe cap that I ground down to fit.
<b>EDIT</b> - Here is another way to remove the stock bushings - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=486189&highlight=Powerflex
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/23.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_23.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>24. You can see how I made it just fit inside the carrier.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/24.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_24.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>25. I rented a ball joint press from autozone, with my ***8220;tool***8221; and an impact wrench I was able to press the steel sleeve out.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/25.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_25.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>26. Here are the two carriers free of the OEM bushings.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/26.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_26.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>27. The left over stock parts.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/27.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_27.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>28. I cleaned up the carriers and sanded the insides according to the powerflex instructions.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/28.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_28.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>29. I again used the ball joint press and pressed in the power flex bushings. I took the purple inner section of the bushing out while pressing it in. It was a two step process to press the bushings in. The first time I could not use the spacer sleeve that comes with the press because there was not room.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/29.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_29.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>30. With the bushing pressed in half way I added the sleeve so that the bushing could properly seat on both sides of the carrier.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/30.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_30.jpg"></a>
</p>
 
#4 ·
<p>31. Bushing installed.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/31.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_31.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>32. Install the inner bushing part. I use white lithium grease to lubricate the two parts.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/32.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_32.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>33. The bushings all ready to install.
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/33.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_33.jpg"></a>
</p>
<p>34. Everything bolted back together. Carrier to frame rails takes 44 ft/lbs and the chassis brace to frame is two stage. First tighten to 43 lb/fts then tighten another 90 degrees and another 30 degrees. (per the Bentley manual).
<a href="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/34.jpg"><img src="http://www.e46fanatics.com/members/tim330i/poly/tn_34.jpg"></a>
</p>
 
#321 ·
Hello Tim, you are cool. I like to know how come people don't use the new bushing as an adapter to push the old bushing sleeve out? I think new bushing pushing old bushing is perfect since their sizes are 100% matching. I saw a YouTube clip that the guy does this way using a hydraulic press.
 
#5 ·
Nice DIY, when you were getting the new bushing on, did you hammer it onto the control arm??

BTW, since it was such a PITA to take out the OEM bushings, doesn't that say something about their durability....After thoroughly reading this DIY, I think that the OEM bushing is already pretty damn overengeneered...
 
#150 ·
In a sense. The problem with the oe bushing is the fluid filled section is going to pop and the inner and outer part will be just fine, but that fluid filler membrane isn't worth crap.
This is where mine is shot at. The rest of it is fine.
If you look at a meyle cab, an oe cab, and a pf cab, you will instaltly see where the oe one just doesn't look like its cutting it.
Plus factor in that most of us have lowered cars, rolling on larger than stock wheels, and you're already adding a lot more stress to that bushing than it was meant for.

This is why BMW dealers try to void your suspension warranty if you lower your car, etc.
 
#6 ·
the OE bushings are good for regular driving. But being that they are rubber, and rubber doesnt hold up well under extreme conditions and tend to flex, harden, crack and break after prolonged use doesnt make them good after awhile. What your're seeing is the parts thats made to stick to the arms and carrier/bracket. whats in the middle or cut out is the rubber portion.

This is why you will notice a much tighter feel to your handling and steering response. The PU's properties are much better than rubber.
 
#7 ·
K-DOG said:
Nice DIY, when you were getting the new bushing on, did you hammer it onto the control arm??

BTW, since it was such a PITA to take out the OEM bushings, doesn't that say something about their durability....After thoroughly reading this DIY, I think that the OEM bushing is already pretty damn overengeneered...
The bushings went right on for the most part. I might have used a block of wood to bang it on a little but it wasn't very hard at all.

Yes it was a pain, no it says nothing about the OE quality. The inner rubber part of the bushing itself isn't hard to get out (see attachment with it missing). What is hard to get out is the steel sleeve. I actually pressed the rubber part out when I was trying to figure out what I was going to do. Then I beat on the steel part with a hammer and tried a couple other things before making my "tool"
 

Attachments

#322 ·
Yes it was a pain, no it says nothing about the OE quality. The inner rubber part of the bushing itself isn't hard to get out (see attachment with it missing). What is hard to get out is the steel sleeve. I actually pressed the rubber part out when I was trying to figure out what I was going to do. Then I beat on the steel part with a hammer and tried a couple other things before making my "tool"
RE removing the thin bushing off the carrier, people had tried with 1 1/2” pipe cap and all sort of ways, but I’m thinking since the bushing is a thin wall – about 1mm or 0.050” thick – then why not try to fold it into an heart shape or apple shape if you know what I mean, then its OD is smaller and should come out easily. I will use a small chisel and start folding in the thin tube close to the carrier, on both sides of the carrier, to get the portion of the tube under the carrier folded in as a heart shape. What do you think?

BTW, I saw pic of the new bushings installed in the carriers but there was no attempt of having the bushing inner "hex shape" aligned with the control arm. Before removing the carrier from the chassis I would mark two horizontal line on the carrier which are parallel with the top and bottom faces of the "hex shape" and later install the new bushing with the same alignment. This should help ease the carrier two bolts mounting process.

Sapote
 
#12 ·
Bushings

Tim, you're the man. I wish you had this DIY like 6 months ago. I had bought OEM ones along with the control arms and replaced them, and still I have a shake in the steering wheel everytime there's a rapid application on the brake pedal...the dealership checked the bushings three times afterward, and they tell me everything looks fine..
Great write up, definitely needs to be added to the Tech section. Thank yu for your time and for sharing this awsome write up.
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
#15 ·
gokcer said:
Or you can just buy the kit with Bushings & Brackets for $99

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=31126757623
You know those are just OE replacements, right? If you are interested in replacing old OE junk with new OE junk that is the way to go, if you are interested in actually improving something then the power flex are the way to go.

If you got the bushings on special for $60 you could probably have the bushings pressed out and in by a shop for $40 or so and you are basically at the same price but with better parts.

Tim
 
#16 ·
I am going to attempt this myself this weekend. However, I do plan on bringing the carriers to a shop to have the old steel sleeves pressed out and the new bushings pressed in. One question, why did you have to remove the front wheels before taking the carriers off? Also, did you tighten the brace back on while the vehicle was still up in the air, or were they tightened down after the car was lowered on to it's own weight. The reason I ask is, I read somewhere that if you do not tighten up the bolts under the weight of the vehicle, some binding could occur after lowering the car. I am new to all of this, so pardon my stupidy. Thanks
 
#17 ·
After reading thru this excellent post I just went out and jacked up my 1999 328i w/sport suspension to check the control arm bushings for wear. I have about 53K miles on it since purchased new in '99. What I noticed was that when the front wheel is shaken back and forth there is about 1/4" of side-to-side play in the rubber bushing. What is normal? There is no external visual sign of wear of failure in the rubber.
For the last 10K miles I have noticed a kind of "bumpsteer" when going over rough roads that I didn't have before. I was attributing this to degrading tire wear from the Bridgestone Pole Position SO-3 tires. On smooth surfaces I do not notice any handling differences. The car takes a firm set and tracks nicely.
So, I'm wondering what is "normal" and how do you tell when the bushing need replacement. Or have I already answered my own question? The pixs and descriptions here give me a lot of confidence that if they ought to be replaced then the aftermarket polyurethane bushing are the only way to go.


Would appreciate your advice and comment.

Ken
 
#18 ·
Started replacing my bushings today

Finally got up enough nerve to attempt to change out my front control arm bushings today, so far, so good, Tim's write up has been very helpfull so far. I only had time today to remove the drivers side carrier and clean up the control arm. I managed to get the rest of the bushing off of the control arm with a 2 jaw puller I borrowed from a friend (see pic). This worked extremely well. I am going to try and make the tool Tim described in his write up to remove the metal sleeve from the carrier. Do I need a bech grinder to grind down the pipe cap or is there another way (don't have a bench grinder). Also, the new bushings have like a lip on both sides, how did you press the new bushing in with the lip, did it just squeeze through? How much does autozone charge to rent a ball joint press for a day? Thanks in advance...
 

Attachments

#19 ·
Glad you are giving it a try.

I used an angle grinder but a bench grinder, dremel tool or something else might work also.

The lip on the new bushings just gets pushed through. A ball joint press requires a $105 deposit but is fully refundable when you return the press, so it actually doesn't cost you anything to rent it.

Good luck,
Tim
 
#20 ·
tim330i said:
Glad you are giving it a try.

I used an angle grinder but a bench grinder, dremel tool or something else might work also.

The lip on the new bushings just gets pushed through. A ball joint press requires a $105 deposit but is fully refundable when you return the press, so it actually doesn't cost you anything to rent it.

Good luck,
Tim
Yep, rented the ball joint press yesterday from autozone, also bought a torque wrench while I was there. I also broke down and bought a bench grinder yesterday from Lowes. I bought a 2" cap plug in plumbing, and this fit perfect to press out the driver side metal sleeve. But the pass. side one the plug just keeps "slipping" inside the the sleeve and it won't push it out. I am stuck at this point. I started grinding down a 2" cap yesterday, what a pain, takes forever, I hope this works because I don't know what else I can try, maybe a large socket? Everything was going great up until this point. I sprayed the sleeve with a penetrator/magnetic lubricant last night I hope this frees it up a little bit. Any other ideas? If I can not get it out, does anyone know the part number for the carrier? Thinking I might just have to buy a new carrier for the pass. side. Thanks in advance......
 
#21 ·
Got it out!

I finished grinding down the 2" cap to use to press out the metal sleeve out of the carrier. I took me a long time to grind it to fit perfectly. So I set up the press with it, start turning, and the press pressed right through the cap, uggggg! The sleeve did not budge. Feeling desperate, I took the carrier with the sleeve still inside to the local shop to see if the mech. could take a look. Five minutes later it was out. The guy was amazing to watch. He used a air hammer and a recipricating saw and it came right out. So last night I pressed the new bushings in. Only thing left to do is bolt everything back together, which I plan on doing this afternoon. I have enough plumbing caps and plugs, and misc. crap to open up a plumbing warehouse, hehehe. A word of advice to avoid my problem, make sure when you press out the old bushing that press is perfectly straight before you start pressing, if starts out crooked at all, the sleeve will be stuck. Other than that, it's relatively easy. Are there any other bushings I should look at replacing while I have the press rented? If so where are they located. Thanks
 
#23 ·
tim330i said:
Sorry you had a problem with my techniqe. As I said I am not sure it is the best way but it did work for me.

Not really an easy install because of the OE sleeves but otherwise it isn't too bad.

Tim
Not at all criticizing your technique, if I had made sure that I had everything dead straight on the press before I started, I am sure it would have worked. Besides, without your write up I would have never attempted this myself. Just glad they are out and I can finish it up today. Thanks Tim for your help couldn't have done it without you or this board.
 
#26 ·
Excellent write up Tim, every E46er should read it! My car's steering is pretty much all over the place because of the standard worn-out bushes.

Could you tell me, is there any increase in road noise transmitted inside the car or any other "undesirable" effect like tyre rumble noise etc or banging over pot holes :bump:

One feature I like about my car is its silky smooth.

Thanks

Ian
 
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