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Product advice request please

1K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  Greg@DetailedImage.com 
#1 ·
I just bought a 2004 Silver Gray ZHP with chrome wheels, and Alcantara interior. It was always garaged with a cover, and has 11,000 miles on it. It looks nearly new with the exception of a couple very light scratches in the clear. I'm looking for a list of starter products to use to keep the finish, wheels, exterior plastic trim, and interior as nice as it is now.

Thanks
 
#2 ·
There is so much to cover here so I'll jump right into a recommendation for some of the main steps.

Washing is an important step that removes surface contamination and allows you to safely proceed to the next step. Removing this contamination safely and effective is the goal of each wash, so you can have the maximum shine later. Use a nice auto shampoo that can remove contamination quick and easy, like the Poorboy's World Super Slick and Suds. Next we recommend using two wash mitts to clean the vehicle. One mitt is for wheels, very low panels and any other heavily contaminated areas. The other mitt should be kept as clean as possible and used on the upper panels and glass. Use two buckets also during this time. One bucket is filled with shampoo and water while the other is just water. While washing the vehicle dunk your mitt in the water bucket to help get rid of contaminates, before you put it back in the soap and water mix and continue washing. Upon completion dry your paint with a paint safe microfiber waffle weave drying towel. One of these towels is good and two is perfect for a thorough drying. The waffle weave pockets hold large amounts of water to make drying nice and simple.

Even brand new vehicles often come heavily contaminated with road grime, air pollution and rail dust (approx 75% of vehicles in the US are on a train at some point). Clay Bar is the ideal prep stage before using polishes, glazes, sealants and waxes. Using a clay bar will remove both micro and macro contamination so the surface is nice and clean. Clay bar removes contaminates stuck in micro-ridges of the clear coat or tightly bonded to the clear coat. In order to achieve maximum shine, gloss and depth, the surface must be as clean as possible for light to pass thru the clear coat and give maximum reflection. Spray clay lube (quick detailer) on the surface and gently glide the clay bar back and forth and it will pick up contaminates that you can even see with the naked eye.

The Porter Cable 7424 is a great investment for anyone who regularly cares for their vehicle. It does a great job of distributing heat and pressure over the entire pad, not like just using your fingertips. The PC 7424 helps you complete a more thorough detail using less time and energy. This will really help you in the future especially when you want to polish to remove any swirls/scratches.

Removing those light scratches can be difficult because you probably need a two step polish to take care of them but you may be able to get rid of them with just one. If the scratches are semi-noticeable you'll probably need a medium cutting polish followed by a light cutting polish. I really like the power of the Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish II. I have gotten great results with this combination. This polish will remove oxidation, brighten the clear coat, remove imperfections and ensure the clear coat is really smooth. These polishes really work best when used with a buffer, which I highly recommend and will explain more below. To read more about why polishes remove swirls and other fine scratches and how to apply them please read our How To section.

A sealant is probably the most important step overall. A sealant will help protect the vehicle against nature's elements. Sealants are generally more durable then waxes while also adding a great shine. The Menzerna FMJ is great and a favorite of many professional and weekend detailers. If you want an extra deep shine you can add a nice carnauba wax to your routine after the sealant. For silver/gray vehicles we typically recommend the P21S Carnauba Wax.

For the interior I would condition the leather right away and keep a regular maintenance of the leather. I prefer to use the Leatherique Prestine Clean to clean and condition the leather. It deep cleans the leather and conditions the leather leaving no gloss or residue behind, just nice soft leather. Using the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil about two times per year will also really help keep the seats looking and feeling their best. For the vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces both inside and outside the vehicle you may want to protect them with the 303 Aerospace Protectant. This formula leaves a nice matte finish with no thick oily residue. It protects against build-ups and UV damage with SPF 40 for those surfaces. So you get a great shine and protection from one product. I use this product on my dashboard, arm rests, rubber seals, tires, engine bay, exterior trim, doors and more. For the carpets you may want to protect them too with the 303 Fabric Guard. I spray down new mats to help seal the fibers, so a staining substance can’t easily penetrate them. This will help keep the carpets looking great for longer.

This is a sample package but I can help you adjust to make sure it accomplishes all of your goals. Please let me know if you have any questions about these products or any part of the detailing process. Thanks again for contacting me and I look forward to helping you develop a detailing package and routine that give you outstanding results.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys I try hard to give in-depth and timely information when I can. It's nice to know it's appreciated! I was definitely busy this weekend buy I always try to make time for forum members. If someone needs help with the detailing process or creating a detailing package I'd like to be there source.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
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