Sorry guys, my car just yesterday started to stall on my and give me no power.
After exiting off the freeway, I was waiting at the light to turn and my car starting stalling and it was idling rough. The rpm gauge was going up and down, not too much though.
Once i got a green light, I push the accelerator and no power, after 2-3 seconds it finally kicked in. After driving a little more it went back to normal.
Same thing happened today, and again the car drives normal again
According to ECS Valve is between charcoal canister and throttle body.
This is the valve that sends the fumes from the fuel tank to the throttle body to be burned.
If this valve fails you'll receive a check engine lamp. Still not sure on location but don't think it's in the tank. Gonna look around on mine later to see if I can find it. Did your shop replace it yet?
No I just took it to get my car checked out and they said it was the fuel tank breather valve(which I'm assuming is the EVAP purge valve) and the SAP
but I'm planning on changing it myself.
I cleared my codes last night and so far all I have are:
P0430
P0174
P0171
P1085
I have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plugs, EVAP purge valve
Cleaned: Mass Air Flow sensor, Idle control valve and Throttle body
I also noticed that my precat o2 sensor is covered in oil (possibly from VCG).
Was going to change my VCG this weekend and going to order new o2 sensor right after.
Most likely not the cause of your problem but I would change it cuz it could throw a code which would be a problem come inspection time. The SAP pump only comes on for about 90 seconds just after a cold start. Funny cuz I needed to change the same line and didn't find out it was bad until I changed my VCG. Car was running fine but line was dry rotted.
I assumed this has to be it cuz I had taken it to an Indy shop and they said I needed a new one and that it was causing my rough idle/misfire/loss of power.
Looks like #3 in the diagram. Long line that starts at check valve and goes around back of engine to solenoid. If that is the line that's in your pic it's definitely not the cause of your rough idle. It's for emissions only. SAP pump only comes on for about 90 seconds after cold start than shuts off. Mine was rotted and was disconnected from the check valve yet car was still idling and running fine.
Still have codes P0171, P0174, P1083, P1085 codes. I just replaced VCG from little oil residue on manifold ad pre cat o2 sensor on bank 2.
Also replaced that o2 sensor as well.
Dude, you have to stop here an listen for a moment, this thread is way too long (87 replies) for likely a simple issue that is being overlooked?
You NEED to provide the following information if you expect to get anywhere with this problem.
1. All Freeze Frame date for each DTC/trouble code you keep getting. This is scan tool specific if you can read and see Freeze Frame Data.
2. Long Term Fuel Trim values at warm idle and while at a steady cruise 40-50 MPH.
3. Explain any driveability issues you may be having. Example cold stumble in the morning, stall, rough idle and when the CEL/SES light typically comes on.
4. Explain how long/many miles it takes for all your Emission Readiness Monitors to clear.
5. You need to tell us what OBDII scan tool you are using, make and model.
Once you post this info up, it will be far easier to see what is going on.
It appears you have a lean fuel mixture condition, but it the lean condition accurate or do you have a false lean condition due to faulty or incorrectly connected sensors?
Hope you can understand what I am asking and can provide the specific data without clouding the picture.
If you do not have the proper scan tool, you NEED to buy one that supports Freeze Frame and Live data. They are less that $100, likely it would have saved you at least this much money by now?
anyone else have this problem or have experienced this before?
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