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OEM M3 PARTS ON NON-M - modding guide

853K views 961 replies 382 participants last post by  m3jala 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Since a lot of threads pop up about fitting OEM M3 parts on Non-M cars, I figured we might as well have a thread that explains everything. This will be a list, hopefully including part numbers, of everything you'll need to fit OEM M3 parts on a Non-M.

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Front Bumper:

Difficulty: 4/10
DIY: Maybe.
Installation:
- Coupe: http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/howtodetail.php?howto_id=40
- Sedan: http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/howtodetail.php?howto_id=41
Part Numbers:
- Re-Bar: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=51_3229&hg=51&fg=15
- Bumper: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=51_4781&hg=51&fg=15

This will fit on okay, but will need some tinkering to fit flush with the stock non-m fenders. Without modification, the bumper sits about an inch and a half forward and the sides flare out an inch or so; on a sedan, it's a slightly bigger gap. To fix this, some people opt for the OEM CF reinforcement bar and stretch the sides in a little bit, while others simply shave down the stock bar to allow the bumper to sit farther back.

Safe Alternatives:
- OEM Mtech2 front bumper (available at your local BMW dealership)
- M3/ CSL replica bumper (available through many of the sponsors here at e46)

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Front Fenders:

Difficulty: 5/10
DIY: If you're looking to save money, then a DIY would be nice.
Part Numbers:
FRONT LEFT 41357894337 $281.23
FRONT RIGHT 41357894338 $281.23

The OEM M3 Fenders will fit on nicely, but will be wider than the stock coupe front bumper. An M3-fitment front will fit perfectly flush with these.

Safe Alternatives:
- Racing Dynamics Tornado

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Hood:

Difficulty: 4/10
DIY: Absolutely.
DOES NOT FIT SEDAN!
Part Number:
HOOD 41617894223 $558.00

Minor fender modification is needed for 100% fit. Most people do this by simply spacing the fenders out by using washers.

Safe Alternatives (for coupes/verts ONLY):
- Carbon Fiber (available from many aftermarket companies)
- Vorsteiner GTR
- Hartge-Style

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Mirrors:

Difficulty: 2/10 (coupe/vert), 4/10 (sedan/wagon)
DIY: Yes.
Installation:
- Coupe: http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/howtodetail.php?howto_id=6
- Sedan:
... Assembly: http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/howtodetail.php?howto_id=27
... Base Plate Modification: http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=E46M3MIR
Part Numbers:
RIGHT PRIMED EL.EXTER.HEATABLE MIRROR 51167893468 $232.13
LEFT PRIMED EL.EXTERIOR HEATABLE MIRROR 51167893597 $232.13
ACTUATOR LEFT 51167895273 $169.63
ACTUATOR RIGHT 51167895274 $169.63
MIRROR GLASS HEATED PLANE LEFT 51167157247 $46.59
ADAPTER LEAD, MIRROR HEATING 51167836442 $6.58
MIRROR GLASS HEATED CONVEX RIGHT 51167157244 $58.31
ADAPTER LEAD, MIRROR HEATING 51167836442 $6.58

On coupes and convertibles, they're a direct bolt on. For sedans and wagons, the bases have to be modified slightly.

Safe Alternatives:
- M3 Replica Mirrors (M5-look) (available through sponsors)
- Hammann/Hagus (available through sponsors)
- AC-Schnitzer (available through sponsors)
- e36 M3-style (available on ebay)
- Hartge

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Side Skirts:

Difficulty: 2/10
DIY: Yes.

Direct bolt on. No modifications needed. On sedans and tourings, the skirts will be a couple millimeters too long. No biggie though...

Safe Alternatives:
- Hammann GTR
- Hammann Competition
- OEM Mtech2
- AC-Schnitzer
- OEM Aero Kit (a.k.a. 'Mtech1')

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Rear Quarter Panels/Fenders:

Difficulty: 9/10
DIY: NO!
Heavy modifications are needed for these to work. In short, a body shop will need to cut your existing quarter panels to smithereens and weld the M3 ones into place. This will require many hours of labor and lots and lots of money. This process is also irreversible. Only do this if you're absolutely certain that your pocket can take the hit.

(Not-so-safe) Alternatives:
- Custom widebody

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Rear Bumper:

Difficulty: 6/10
DIY: Probably not.
Part Numbers:
- Re-Bar: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=51_3306&hg=51&fg=15
- Bumper: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=BL93&mospid=47714&btnr=51_4219&hg=51&fg=15

This has only been tried a handfull of times, but this mod is usually accompanied by a widebody. Since there's such a difference between M and non-M rear fenders, this bumper is a good inch or two too wide. To fit this correctly, you'll either need to do some hardcore molding and reshaping of the bumper, or a custom widebody in the rear. If you can deal with the bumper flexing and creating numerous noticeable gaps, then I guess you could do it without modifying anything (and only stretching the sides of the bumper in). Again, this mod isn't highly recommended unless you're serious about modifying your car.

Safe Alternatives:
- Hammann GTR
- Mtech2
- OEM Aero Kit (a.k.a. Mtech1)
- Various rear addons

---

Trunk (including CSL trunks):

Difficulty: 3/10
DIY: Yes.
DOES NOT FIT SEDAN!
Part Numbers:
- M SPOILER REAR, PRIMED 51717893671 $139.50
- TRUNK LID 41627065260 $430.78

Some people (for whatever reason) want OEM trunks on their cars. The trunks are the exact same dimensions for M and non-M cars, therefore this is a direct bolt-on. No biggie.

Safe Alternatives:
- M3 Trunk Lip (yes, it fits fine)
- CSL Replica Trunks (Vorsteiner)
- CSL Addons (eh)
- Bimmain CSL-Style Addons (very nice looking IMO)
- ACS 3-Piece Race Wing
- ACS 3-Piece Trunk Spoiler
- ACS 1-Piece Trunk Spoiler

---

Muffler:
Difficulty: 4/10
DIY: No. (leave it to any reputable muffler shop)

Despite what many people think, this mod isn't very hard to do. Here's what you'll need to do:
- Either cut the spare tire well ($100ish) or get an OEM M3 one put on ($150ish) in order to allow room for the muffler box.
- Get a new rear bumper to accomodate the sexy, center-exiting, quad tailpipes.
- Go to a muffler shop and have them weld it on. Just the welding and bracketry shouldn't cost more than $100 in total.

Safe Alternatives:
- Custom quad exhausts
- Remus/Eisenmann quad exhausts

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Wheels/Tires:

Difficulty: 4/10
DIY: Sure.

To get a set of four to fit, you will need to do some hardcore fender rolling and buy some smaller tires. To ensure proper fitment and to avoid a headache, I'd probably just find a set of four front wheels. These will fit just fine with no rubbing or modifications or anything.

Safe Alternatives:
- Anything :)

---

Gauges/Instrument Cluster:

Difficulty: ?/10
DIY: ?
Part Number: INSTRUMENTS COMBINATION UNCODED MPH 62117837972 $504.43

This has not been successfully done yet. People have plugged these in, and here are the results:

WORKS 100%:
- MPH
- RPM
- OnBoard Computer Functions
- Lights
- Indicators
- Engine Temp.
- Gas Info

DOES NOT WORK:
- Oil Temp. Needle
- RPM Warmup Lights
- Little orange ODO Tamper Light comes on...which is bad

This is a DIRECT PLUG AND PLAY, but will not work 100%. You be the judge...

Safe Alternatives:
- Bimmian M3-Style Gauges
- UUC Whiteface Gauges
- Silver Gauge Rings w/ Red Sharpie'd Needles

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Steering Wheel:

Difficulty: 3/10
DIY: Yes
Part Number: M SPORTS STEER.-WHEEL, AIRBAG, LEATHER, BICOLOR 32348022322 $700.29

As long as you have the round airbag, this will be a direct bolt-on. The airbag, horn, radio buttons, cruise control, and everything else will work. Yay!!

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More to be added later....

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11
#390 ·
Steering Wheel:

Difficulty: 3/10
DIY: Yes
Part Number: M SPORTS STEER.-WHEEL, AIRBAG, LEATHER, BICOLOR 32348022322 $700.29

As long as you have the round airbag, this will be a direct bolt-on. The airbag, horn, radio buttons, cruise control, and everything else will work. Yay!!-
So what if you don't have a round steering wheel? I had the triangle one, and now I have the airbag light on, AKA the airbag is NOT working (I was told by various mechanics).

I bet this has been asked before, but how can this be fixed?
 
#399 ·
The airbag light is something that needs to be reset by the dealership. If the airbag system detects a fault, the light will come on and everything will be disabled, in order to stop something freaky from happening. In order to get rid of the light, you have to make sure that all airbags in the car are operational and then get the light reset by a dealership (or anywhere that has GT1 diagnostic tools.)

In my car, I just bought an M3 wheel and round airbag (both used), and they were direct bolt ons with no airbag light or issues since.
 
#400 · (Edited)
Did you even read the thread? I don't want to come off as an as</ht>shole, but I answered this question on the first page.

Of course they will fit.


As a matter of fact, these two headlights are the exact same thing and are completely interchangeable; they just have different lenses, inner trim, and corners.


The only issue would be electronic, and all you have to do is reprogram your LCM (the light switch in the car) to accept xenons. Again, a dealership or anyone else with GT1 diagnostic tools can do this for you. If your car is early enough, it might require a newer LCM that can be programmed over, which isn't too much of a stretch either.
 
#393 ·
OEM M3 mirrors and OEM CSL trunk

Hi Alec,

just read the DYI for M3 mirrors and came across this:

"I am told the MY2000 328cis and 323cis have the 6-pin connector that the E46 M3 mirrors come with. If you have a MY2000 323ci or 328ci, your job has been greatly simplified and you must now simply connect the new M3 wire harness (6-pin)."

Is this true? if so i'll get M3 mirrors from 09/99 for my 328ci without checking - otherwise I'll have to take a look?

I also have a OEM CSL "ducktail" trunk - can I just get i painted and put it on?

I realise that that I should check both - just wanted to know if there was a quick way/lazy way ;o)

Best,

Kevin

Ps thanks for answer on sway bars - I'm going for the H&R m3 sway which is 30mm (3 adjustment holes) and 330d (stiffer) eibach prokit springs - it's looking good so far!
 
#394 ·
Hi Alec,

just read the DYI for M3 mirrors and came across this:

"I am told the MY2000 328cis and 323cis have the 6-pin connector that the E46 M3 mirrors come with. If you have a MY2000 323ci or 328ci, your job has been greatly simplified and you must now simply connect the new M3 wire harness (6-pin)."

Is this true? if so i'll get M3 mirrors from 09/99 for my 328ci without checking - otherwise I'll have to take a look?

I also have a OEM CSL "ducktail" trunk - can I just get i painted and put it on?

I realise that that I should check both - just wanted to know if there was a quick way/lazy way ;o)

Best,

Kevin

Ps thanks for answer on sway bars - I'm going for the H&R m3 sway which is 30mm (3 adjustment holes) and 330d (stiffer) eibach prokit springs - it's looking good so far!
I was under the impression that the OEM M3 mirrors were 12pin.
 
#395 ·
What about fitting a Carbon Fiber M3 intake on a 330 ZHP can it be done? I know that this is aftermarket but this is the closest thread that i can find that maybe be able to answer my question.
 
#408 ·
M3 suspension, shocks, struts, springs...

now I know Alec isn't fond of this. But i've done the swap a few times.

#1 an M3 suspension is slightly taughter than the sport, but also, will ride slightly higher. My rationale. In the past now. 328ci, with 75k miles on it, sport susp. And for 150 bucks got M3 susp with under 10k on it.

Swapped well, was about 1/2 taller in front and 1/4 taller in rear (probably half that difference was the aging of the suspension). Car definitely handled better.

#2 Bought a 325i with stock suspension. i was getting seasick driving this thing. Swapped to M3 suspension. Lowered by about 1/2 inch front and rear, and much, much tighter. Handling was crisper as well as rebound was 1000% better. No floating, just nice firm M3.

My recommendations. If you have sport suspension and it's not worn out, or the M3 susp you can get is of similar milage, don't do it. If you have high miles on your sport susp and a low mile M3...will be worth it. If you've got a non sport susp - get the M3 susp, provided you can get it cheap. Remember you do have to get car aligned after this.

The technical issues.
1. Rear - direct bolt in. Hopefully you can purchase with top mounts too as they are much better than stock 3 series. The spring slips in and the shock bolts right in. Nothing to worry about.

2. Front - this is where the issue lies. The strut hat or top mount is M3 specific and your stock one won't work. So you need the entire strut, with spring and top eccentric mount from the M3 to make it work. Guys that have gone to coilovers will have removed this part, others with simple strut upgrades may not have. Without this part, the suspension is useless to you, and the part is i believe 90 bucks each at stealer...so unless you get the front hats don't buy the M3 suspension.

Now for the install, there is a trick, the eccentric top mount has an arrow that's supposed to face forward, with right on right and left on left. If you turn it (3 holes) so that the arrow is pointing towards the motor (inward) the alignment will be easy and more or less right on without any significant adjustments.

So yes after reading through this thread, and not seeing this info I thought it worthwhile to give you my experience. I do have an M3 (vert), and while the susp is not as balanced (lacking sways) in these other cars....it was definitely worth it...having purchased my sets for 150 bucks each.

Joe
 
#409 ·
^ Thanks for the input, I'm sure it will help lots of people. I'm still going to maintain the idea that it's just not worth it for the time/money spent. I bought my H&R Race springs for $140 and my car on those and blown non-sport shocks was absolutely on rails. I'm all about using OEM parts when possible, but I'm still not convinced that the M3 suspension is even an upgrade for stock non-sport non-M cars.
 
#410 ·
I'm sure with race springs it was tight, but have to imagine the ride was terrible. I can honestly say the improvement over a 'used' sport was very mild; however, the improvement over the non sport was quite impressive.
 
#412 ·
M3 front

Hello
I've recently bought a 328 ci and wanted to give it a more aggressive look. Was thinking about the m3 front bumper. After doing some research on the matter i found that its not a direct fit. So i though about changing the whole front end of the car..... m3 fenders, bumper, and hood. The only thing about that is, seeing how the m3 has wider rear fenders on it. i imagined it would look odd to have wide fender on the front, and regular 3 fenders in the back.... with that said, i would like to know has anyone seen this done? and if so, does it look odd?(it would be great if you could post some pics of one that has gone through this) also, what is a alternative to this...in other words anyone know of a rear and front apron that will give my 3 a more agressive/sporty look. Thanks in advance for you replies.
 
#418 ·
Will the m3 engine fit my 325i? What mods need to be done ?
the engine came from a 02 M3!!Please let me know!!
Yes, it will fit. Here are the mods that need to be done.

- M3 transmission
- M3 engine
- M3 DME
- M3 cluster
- M3 LCM
- M3 shifter parts
- M3 engine harness
- M3 body harness, adapted for non-M sedan (rear windows (???), sport button, etc.)
- Traction control??
- Speed sensors?
- all necessary brackets, etc. etc.


All of which, you have to find and do yourself. Your best bet would be to find a wrecked (in the rear) M3, strip both cars down, and swap all the M3 parts into the 325... we're talking every single part here. This will end up costing you a fortune of money and time, especially on the research end of things.
 
#420 ·
Weight saving - oem hood vs. m3 oem hood

Hi guys,

been searching and the best I can come up with is that the oem m3 hood should weigh 32 lbs (a Vorsteiner price and weight comparison) - is the 32 lbs the right number for a oem m3 hood? what is the weight of a 3 series prefacelift (non-m3) hood? anybody know how much weight can be saved?

Thanks
Kevin
 
#430 ·
Where does it pick up the signal from then? Are you sure it's not showing coolant temperature?
 
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