E46 Fanatics Forum banner

audio upgrade sedan

12K views 40 replies 9 participants last post by  michalt95 
#1 ·
Whats up everyone?
My speakers on my 02 325i (non H/K)are shot. No bass and sound like crap over all. Can't even listen to songs from the radio stations because the sound is unbearable. Thought since black friday is coming i might get a good deal on something and upgrade. I'm pretty big into music, listen to pretty much everything however most is techno and songs where the drop is intense and lots of bass lol

Yes i looked at the BSW but i dont have that kind of money to spend on speakers.

im a dummy on stereo install so be patient with me and yes i did some searching

buying the dash kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E46-3-Serie...it-CD-Player-Install-Trim-Mount-/300667563716

i can get this Sony CDXGT565UP from a buddy of mine for $40(opinions)

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sony+-+...Deck/3130241.p?id=1218379526775&skuId=3130241

now for the speakers, i was thinking about the alpine sps 610 (2 pairs of course) would they fit in the door? I'm okay to work to make them fit

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+...8293491912&skuId=1807251&st=sps 610&cp=1&lp=2

Now i also have a 12" mtx thunder 6000

http://archive.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/2001Thunder6000Sub.cfm

I can build a box for it however i'd need some opinions about it and also how big of Amp would i need to use?

am i missing anything that i need to buy?

I know that the connectors are different however i figured i could cut them off from the old ones and solder them to the new ones maybe. Other than that would it be a plug and play set or would i have to do something else?

Thanks in advance:thumbup:
 
See less See more
#5 · (Edited)
220 views and nothing??? :(
also do i understand correctly that if i put in a new radio and new speakers i will have to remove the stock amp?? (do i just unplug it and leave the connector just hanging?

I might be able to also get kicker ds62 6.5" for like half the price. I was looking at the earlier and be comparing to stock rear ones (same as front ones) they are a bit shallower (half inch maybe) so they might be good for the front since it would leave more space behind the magnet. Also by dropping the kicker into the rear deck, I think they wouldnt be hard to install. Just would have to make some brackets since the original screws are a bit out of the ring of the speaker.
 
#6 ·
For my non h/k system I got on crutchfield & bought two Infinity Kappas (4.25") for the front with the brackets they supplied, and for the rears I had an extra set of Kicker DS (don't remember the size) speakers that I just dropped in the basket (no mounts or anything). My head unit is a pioneer double din custom installed, and that's connected to my pioneer 850 watt amp and two 12" MTX subwoofers. As far as I know the factory amp is still connected to run the speakers, but I'm not 100% on that. The subs sound great in mine and I don't have a ski-pass, very good bass with no rattles. Overall the system sounds good in my opinion. Hope this helps you some!
 
#8 ·
I think anything is an upgrade from my stock unit, my speakers sound like crap, the radio doesnt read mp3 and i cant plug in my phone without buying the DICE or what ever its called for like $100 or however much it is. I would do a double din but i dont have the money for it, im looking to spend maybe $300-400 if not less
 
#10 ·
I plan on changing my speakers. However as i stated before i cant plug in my iphone without buying the DICE kit and i cant listen to any CD's. Also is there a possibility in plugging in an amp to run a sub on a stock radio?

Also am i correct saying that for the component set the 6.5 would go in the rear deck and the bottom of the door. The tweeters would go to the rear door and the middle of the front door. However what are the options for the speakers by the side mirrors?
 
#11 ·
plugged in the kickers to see if they would sound better. only did one of the 6.5 inch speakers straight into the oem connection. (just used the wire that came with them) noticed that that speaker was noticeably quieter, and I mean by a lot, compared to the old oem one on the other side. IS that just something i would have to get used to and crank up the radio more??

Also found some Pyramid Power 5.25 300w component speakers, forgot the model number, any opinions on these??
Kickers ds62 in the back and these in the front??
 
#12 ·
To start with, don't spend any money on the Pyramid stuff. It's not well made and does not sound very good. You'll just be bummed and have to throw good money after bad. I used to sell that junk at a flea market. "1000 watt" amps for $89. (My cost $50) 300 Watts means nothing when it comes to Pyramid.

I would get a decent single DIN head unit first if I were you and on your budget. Most have USB, Bluetooth, AUX connectivity built right in. A solid Kenwood Excelon or Alpine unit would be great. Maybe add some good quality coaxial front speakers at first.

These would not be a bad start:

http://www.amazon.com/DCX-165-COAXIAL-SPEAKERS-TWEETERS/dp/B0044AFQZQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_4

Components would be better, but you will not be able to drive components properly without an amp.

The factory non-H/K amp does not put out much power. Just run the power for the front channels directly to the speakers from the head unit until you can swing a proper amp.

Save up for a good sub and amplifier combo and add that later when you can. Trust me, its better to get quality stuff and upgrade a little at a time versus trying to make a short budget, getting it all in and feeling like it's not all that great. Done that several times over before. Those front stage speakers are the most important, so get the best you can there and do the rest as you can afford to.

For once in my life I was finally able to do it all at once. If you want to check it out it's here:

http://specializedcaraudioinc.com/?p=487


Something like this could be done in stages though, and you'll be much happier long term with it. Don't rush man. :)
 
#17 · (Edited)
Got the sony CDXGT565UP and the kickers ds65.2 (turns out they are kickers ds65.2 not kickers ds62) 2 6 3/4 and 2 tweeters with a crossover (will be looking soon into how to mount them)

ordering this probably tomorrow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/E46-3-SERIE...Parts_Accessories&hash=item41680977a9&vxp=mtr

will i be able to just mount the unit into the car and wire it to the stock amp for now? will there be any problems? frying the amp, blowing the speakers etc. or am i good untill i run new wires for the new speakers?
 
#18 ·
Should be fine with the factory amp but you'll need to add a line out converter in between the head unit and the amp. That harness will feed your factory amp a full line level signal from the Sony and that will make it extremely loud and prone to distorting very quickly. Add the line out converter and you should be ok.
 
#21 · (Edited)
IMO, do not replace your head unit unless you are missing major features. The factory unit has a clean signal and you can save money and lots of time/hassle by using it.

You can't sound any better than your speakers and their install.

If you really want midbass, spend your time and money here. Pick a good set of drives, cut the door and mount them directly to the door.
RSL (e46fanatic) Starting my first install
jvr826 (e46fanatic) Midbass issue - "tunnel effect"
jvr826 (e46fanatic) Midbass issue - "tunnel effect" FIXED
Others have tried to avoid this and none have been happy with the results. Everyone that has done this has raved:thumbsup:

Also, midbass requires power. The factory amp is not adequate for any kind of dynamic volume. There are lots of affordable options out there and a huge used market. If you stay with the factory HU, avoid using an LOC (adds cost and noise) by using an amp that accepts the balanced differential signal directly from the HU. If you send the front and rear signals to 2 different amps and use the HU's fader as a bass control :)

Tapping into the BMW signal, speaker wiring and power is easy compared to most cars. The only new wire you need to run is power for amp(s). The HU and speaker wires are great as is.

You can see my 04 M3 build log over on DIYMA. In it I provided links to all the other build logs (multiple forums) I used to help me...like wiring and such.

Good luck and enjoy your project!
 
#22 ·
so i got the dash kit, radio and the kickers. for the back im planing to get Alpine SPE-6000 since they are in my budget and they seem pretty good for the price.
Now for the wiring. I plan to by pass the stock amp however by looking at the front door it would be hard to run the wires i think. Also i would have like no place to mount the crossover.
so here is my idea:
At the amp in the back. splice the wires coming from the radio into the cross over and than splice the wires for the bass and mid, that run into the door, into the other end of the cross over.
As for the rear speakers just slice the output from the radio to the midbass(located in the rear deck)
This would eliminate the speakers in the rear door and the speakers by the mirrors.
Any ideas if that would work??
Any ideas on the colors of the wires to splice??
 
#28 ·
Yes, wiring the doors is a pain. You can get great results just using the stock wiring. Mount the crossovers for the components in the trunk where the factory amp used to be. That way you can tap into the factory speaker wiring. You don't need the tiny rear door speakers - you will not miss them. Just mount your tweeters for those Kicker components in the front upper door / mirror location. Should sound really nice with a decent amp.

Here's how mine went in, with stock speaker wiring to keep things simple. This is the drivers side of the trunk sidewall, where the H/K amp used to reside:

http://specializedcaraudioinc.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/2012-11-08_17-43-06_313.jpg

(This is just mocked up in the picture at this point, it's all neatly wrapped up at this point and behind the panel, very clean looking.)

I have the wire colors. I'll look...
 
#27 ·
so for the amp i would be ok doing that i guess.
By any chance you know which wire is for what? I cant seem to find a diagram for that.
Do i just leave the rest of the wires just hanging there(of course wrapped in electrical tape)
 
#32 · (Edited)
This took me way longer than i expected. 3 days, total of 20 hours and still not 100% completed.

Made some brackets out of 3/4 mdf for the mids. Kicker DS 65.2.




For the tweeters used 1/4 mdf. Used a hole saw to cut out a circle so that it would fit into the stock housing and than drilled a hole in that that would fit the new tweeter.


Put it in and used some hot glue to hold it in place.


Completed. My goal was to make it look factory.


As for the wiring.
Door- cut the factory connectors and put on connectors that came with the speakers.


For the rear got some Alpine SPE-6000
Made 3 tabs out of 1/4 mdf to screw them in place.

Bypassed the stock amp (dont have a pic of that) have to clean it up a bit.

As for the radio. Its a Sony CDX-gt565up. Got the mounting kit off of ebay.
Here is where i ran into a small problem. I could not get the factory plug and the adapter into a place where the radio would slide in. I left it at this.


After a little thinking i figured that i could remove the center vent, then the whole bracket that holds the radio and climate control. After that i could move the factory plug above the bracket and below the center vent and then run the adapter back behind that and the radio could possibly fit. However i have to wait for warmer temperatures to come. Hands get too cold to work with the the plastics are very brittle so i figured the warm temperatures would loosen the up a bit.
 
#34 ·
:yikes: just noticed how big those pictures are haha
keep in mind this set up was made without modifying anything in the car except for the connectors and the amp bypass. No cutting to the doors have been done which is what i wanted to do.
I want to think as this set up is a "Stage 1" of the audio upgrade.
As for cutting the hole in the door I do not think there is a need to for these speakers. I just did a trip (2 hours one way) and i gotta say i like how it sounds for now. This is without really playing around with the settings in the radio and the sub is still not in. I have to sit one day and play around with the radio and also when I put the sub in that is going to make a huge difference too. As for cutting the hole I want to wait until the sub is in and I will go from there.:thumbup:
 
#35 ·
finally got a box for the sub and picked up a wiring kit.
picking up an amp from a buddy to run this.
I got a couple questions though.
Do i need to run the "remote" (blue) wire from the radio to the amp? or is it not needed?
also would i need to buy a condensator or would it not draw too many amps?
 
#37 ·
Hmm
 
#40 ·
ah lol well to answer your question.. i for one dont believe on the use of capacitors. theory is that it stiffens the power to the sub amp ( a burst per say)


i would rather invest in a good battery. optima, kenetik (i have this), an a few others having highter amperage (cca). all made for upgraded stereo demands.
 
#41 ·
Finally finished it yesterday. Well finished for now. Im pretty happy with the way it sounds, especially for costing me like $300 for everything.
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top