As a new e46 sponsor specializing in automotive detailing supplies, I thought I would open a thread for people to ask their questions about exterior and interior care of their vehicles. There is so much information out there regarding automotive detailing and we've been in the business for years. I have used a majority of products available on the market and have hand selected the products I stand by for our shop, www.detailedimage.com .
Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. I'll do my best to give you a timely answer.
Here are a few samples of the work we do at Detailed Image. Once again, please don't hesitate to ask ANY question!
Before:
After:
Great Before and After Pics:
(notice the house faintly thru the swirls and hazing?)
If you'd like to see some more pictures just say the word. We look forward to becoming active members in the e46 community!
My question is what speed should I use with each step? I am utilizing the Porter Cable 7424 DA polisher. I've worked with orbital machines in the past, but this is my first time with the PC 7424. Thanks for your help!
Your polishes you will want to run a higher speed than you will the EX. For the 2.0 I'd personally run it around 4.5 (if its your first time you might want to run it at a lower speed 3 - 3.5 to get used to it). Same goes for the SSR 1. Work it in until it is barely visible, then remove w/ a microfiber towel. You can spot treat the areas that you can't get w/ the PC w/ the microfiber apps we sent. I'd run the EX at 2.5-3, you don't need to heat up the paint at all when applying sealants and waxes.
How about info on claybar? After i heard ppl threaten death if u dotn clay, i went out and got a ripped off claybar, didnt like its results, and went ahead and waxed with meguiars NXT tech with brilliant results. they clay scared me, the way it skidded or slid over paint
:dunno:
I understand that using a heavy cutting pad with a light polish or sealant is inappropriate, but can you use a polishing or finishing pad with a compound? I wanted to know if I can use a white polishing pad with 3M Perfect-It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound. I am trying to remove swirl marks, scuffs, and fine scratches from the previous owner. I would imagine the compound will still cut, even without a cutting pad, but I wanted to ask the experts. Thanks in advance for your response!
I understand that using a heavy cutting pad with a light polish or sealant is inappropriate, but can you use a polishing or finishing pad with a compound? I wanted to know if I can use a white polishing pad with 3M Perfect-It II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound. I am trying to remove swirl marks, scuffs, and fine scratches from the previous owner. I would imagine the compound will still cut, even without a cutting pad, but I wanted to ask the experts. Thanks in advance for your response!
Sorry about the delayed response, we've been very busy lately:
The various detailing forums have info about only using pads that match the product--using pads that are more aggressive than the product only leads to marring/dulling from the pad, or using aggressive products with less aggressive pads creates scouring because the polish/cutting agent doesn’t heat up enough to be effective.
Can you use a compound / abrasive polish with a polishing pad and get decent results? Yes. With a finishing pad? No.
For example... SSR 2.5 with a white Lake Country Polishing Pad is fine. With a Black LC Finishing pad, no-no.
A lot of times we might do a coat w/ a cutting pad, then go over it with the same product on a polishing pad (example SSR 2.5) but never go less aggressive than a polishing pad for an abrasive polish/compound.
Thanks for you response! I suppose I'll give the white polishing pad a go, and then I'll step it up to an orange compounding pad if I don't like the results.
New 330 silver grey metallic. A few water marks on the paint, very faint, but they're there. I can feel grit (by hand) on surface No swirl marks.
My plan:
Wash with Meguires Gold Class car wash (hey, it was cheap at Costco!)
claybar (more meguiars products) to remove water marks and grit
Manzerna finishing touch glaze
Menzerna FMJ (probably two coats)
caranuba wax as my energy allows for extra shine.
New 330 silver grey metallic. A few water marks on the paint, very faint, but they're there. I can feel grit (by hand) on surface No swirl marks.
My plan:
Wash with Meguires Gold Class car wash (hey, it was cheap at Costco!)
claybar (more meguiars products) to remove water marks and grit
Manzerna finishing touch glaze
Menzerna FMJ (probably two coats)
caranuba wax as my energy allows for extra shine.
The clay bar will generally not remove the swirl marks. If they are extremely faint you may be able to get them out with the clay bar but more than likely you need a very mild polish like the Poorboy's World SSR 1.0 or Menzerna Final Polish II. These polishes are very gentle and can be applied by hand or buffer. Since you describe the marks as faint I think the polish would be more than enough to take them out. If they are a little difficult to remove then just give it multiple passes and it should be no problem. Other than that your plan sounds fine and your right on target.
If you still plan on claying your process would go as follows:
Wash/Dry
Clay
Some people will Wash/Dry again
Mild Polish - SSR 1.0 or Menzerna Final Polish II
Menzerna FTG
Menzerna FMJ
Carnauba Wax
If you have any more questions please let me know.
The clay bar will generally not remove the swirl marks. If they are extremely faint you may be able to get them out with the clay bar but more than likely you need a very mild polish like the Poorboy's World SSR 1.0 or Menzerna Final Polish II. These polishes are very gentle and can be applied by hand or buffer. Since you describe the marks as faint I think the polish would be more than enough to take them out. If they are a little difficult to remove then just give it multiple passes and it should be no problem. Other than that your plan sounds fine and your right on target.
If you still plan on claying your process would go as follows:
Wash/Dry
Clay
Some people will Wash/Dry again
Mild Polish - SSR 1.0 or Menzerna Final Polish II
Menzerna FTG
Menzerna FMJ
Carnauba Wax
If you have any more questions please let me know.
There are no swirl marks. Only light water stains. I assume the claybar will get out the stains. If not, then I'll use a mild polish. Check your web site for an order in a few minutes... :thumbup:
There are no swirl marks. Only light water stains. I assume the claybar will get out the stains. If not, then I'll use a mild polish. Check your web site for an order in a few minutes... :thumbup:
I received your order and you should have the necessary tools now to properly treat and maintain your car. I think you'll be very happy with the polish because now you have the ability to spot treat things water marks, sap, rail dust, tar marks or even just brighten the paint. I also am a big fan of the FTG and FMJ combo, I think you'll be very impressed with the results. Thank you for your support and we'll be shipping the order out asap.
I received your order and you should have the necessary tools now to properly treat and maintain your car. I think you'll be very happy with the polish because now you have the ability to spot treat things water marks, sap, rail dust, tar marks or even just brighten the paint. I also am a big fan of the FTG and FMJ combo, I think you'll be very impressed with the results. Thank you for your support and we'll be shipping the order out asap.
I saw your second order and we'll combine it all into one when we process it through. There is free shipping on all orders over $125 so we'll remove both shipping charges and combine the order into one when it goes out. Thanks again for your business and if you want to add anything else we can make that happen as well.
how should one go about spoilers etc. when polishing/waxing? like these spots, wax must get caught and be hard to remove without scratching anything? (illustration picture borrowed from REVI's "Painted M3 Style Trunk Lip Spoiler" thread - hope you don't mind!)
I received your order and you should have the necessary tools now to properly treat and maintain your car. I think you'll be very happy with the polish because now you have the ability to spot treat things water marks, sap, rail dust, tar marks or even just brighten the paint. I also am a big fan of the FTG and FMJ combo, I think you'll be very impressed with the results. Thank you for your support and we'll be shipping the order out asap.
I have been considering trying the FTG and FMJ combo. I haven't tried it yet because Zaino has worked quite well for me in regards to shine and brightness, but expecially in regards to durability. What is your impression of the durability of the FMJ? Will it approach the 6 months that Zaino gives?
how should one go about spoilers etc. when polishing/waxing? like these spots, wax must get caught and be hard to remove without scratching anything? (illustration picture borrowed from REVI's "Painted M3 Style Trunk Lip Spoiler" thread - hope you don't mind!)
I would recommend that you do these areas by hand very carefully. If you want to be sure not to wax those trim pieces tape them off. Take your time putting the tape on and try to make it as flush as possible with the edge. This will allow you to wax right til the edge and not leave behing any unsightly white marks on the black trim. When I do these areas I make sure not to use an excessive amount of wax that way there aren't large amounts of wax seeping out of the pad. These areas become easier to wax with practice and patience.
bernstem said:
I have been considering trying the FTG and FMJ combo. I haven't tried it yet because Zaino has worked quite well for me in regards to shine and brightness, but expecially in regards to durability. What is your impression of the durability of the FMJ? Will it approach the 6 months that Zaino gives?
Menzerna is some Germany's finest car care products that have made a name for themselves by producing long lasting products that have brilliant results. The Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) should last about six months but conditions can make that vary. Conditions such as: garaged, rain, snow, amount driven, preperation of paint before application make it hard to compare durability. However assuming you take good care of the car and the surface is well prepared it should last six months. I think you'll be very happy with FMJ and it's durability. If you try both products I'd be interested in hearing your opinion on the two products.
I would recommend that you do these areas by hand very carefully. If you want to be sure not to wax those trim pieces tape them off. Take your time putting the tape on and try to make it as flush as possible with the edge. This will allow you to wax right til the edge and not leave behing any unsightly white marks on the black trim. When I do these areas I make sure not to use an excessive amount of wax that way there aren't large amounts of wax seeping out of the pad. These areas become easier to wax with practice and patience.
Menzerna is some Germany's finest car care products that have made a name for themselves by producing long lasting products that have brilliant results. The Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ) should last about six months but conditions can make that vary. Conditions such as: garaged, rain, snow, amount driven, preperation of paint before application make it hard to compare durability. However assuming you take good care of the car and the surface is well prepared it should last six months. I think you'll be very happy with FMJ and it's durability. If you try both products I'd be interested in hearing your opinion on the two products.
I have a friend with some FMJ and FTG that I plan on trying. I'll let you know what I think (but it might take a few weeks before I get the time to put them on).
but my main concern is getting wax/polish etc. stuck in the area between the trunk and the trunk spoiler, and not being able to get it out. see the illustration picture below (borrowed from bimmerblvd's "ACS Style 3 Piece Trunk Lid Spoiler *PAINTED*" thread - hope you don't mind!)
but my main concern is getting wax/polish etc. stuck in the area between the trunk and the trunk spoiler, and not being able to get it out. see the illustration picture below (borrowed from bimmerblvd's "ACS Style 3 Piece Trunk Lid Spoiler *PAINTED*" thread - hope you don't mind!)
Am I overlooking the obvious? Wouldn't you just pop the trunk release to clean up any wax/polish between there? It also sounds like you are using way too much product if you are seeing gobs of polish and wax getting stuck. When we apply a sealant we use less than 1oz of product on a whole car, less is more when detailing! I know buffing pads can cake up at times and when they do we use a fine brush and some quick detailer spray to work the crevices and between trim. But if you take your time, tape off certain areas, you should be able to minimize any product getting stuck in places they should not be. I'd be happy to send you out a small detailing brush for $1 (just to cover our costs of shipping) or if you place an order with us, let us know and i'll throw one in. I'm sorry if I am not getting your question completely, the internet does have its downsides in communication.
thanks George, you have good points there, and it might be me who is over-thinking this, but it's the lining where the spoiler meets the trunk i am thinking of. and such areas as where the sideskirts meets the rest of the body (places i can't access without removing parts of the bodywork). but i get your point about less is more, and i'll try to use just enough polish/wax to ensure it doesn't go into places i can't access.
i will surely place an order on your site, hopefully soon
thanks George, you have good points there, and it might be me who is over-thinking this, but it's the lining where the spoiler meets the trunk i am thinking of. and such areas as where the sideskirts meets the rest of the body (places i can't access without removing parts of the bodywork). but i get your point about less is more, and i'll try to use just enough polish/wax to ensure it doesn't go into places i can't access.
i will surely place an order on your site, hopefully soon
No I know exactly what you mean now! I have been out of town the last couple days and missed the bottom of page 7 pic of the white BMW you posted. Greg's was handling the responses since then. That's why I didn't get when you asked about getting wax in that area of the black BMW trunk LOL. Sorry about that. I hope I didn't come off rude! If so I apologize. I re-read Gregs response and he is right about doing those area's by hand and once again, use a minimal amount of product.
What I do when I am detailing is spread the product around, initially when you put the biggest glob on your paint, put it in an area that has no creases or trim to get it on and spread from the middle of the blob out to the other areas of your 2' x 2' area or so. (I hope that made sense!) For example the hood. I would start somewhat in the middle where there are no creases between the hood and fenders and work my way out to the edges so you have minimal product on the pad and paint in those area's that can get lodged in there.
Once its thru the paint and down into the primer, there's nothing you can do but to repaint or touch up. Only thing a polish could help with is if there is white scuffs around the area of the chip, it may clean that up a tad.
Even though this remains at the top most of the time, it should still be a sticky..
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