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Old 03-31-2017, 12:02 AM   #1
willysalazar1
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2003 330ci Bad Rpm's Drop in D and R

Hello I just finished cleaning MAF , ICV , TB and check for vacuum leaks and my car still shakes a lot when I shift from P to D or R .

At this point I don't know how to diagnose , I have no codes

New Disa , CCV, Coils, here's a video of the problem

Thanks any advice will be appreciated

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kbbj8pz5vz...29.33.mov?dl=0




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Old 03-31-2017, 04:48 AM   #2
Solidjake
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Engine mounts.

I did EVERYTHING to fix that vibrations (spark plugs/boots, intake boots, disa, vacuum hoses, etc etc etc). Its the engine mounts. When they get worn out they will create the vibration when the gear is engaged to the transmission. If you can do the transmission mounts at the same time then that would be idea. Stick with the Lemforder/Corteco brand.
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Old 03-31-2017, 05:59 AM   #3
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Most of these cars idle at 700 RPM in Park or Neutral and 600 in Drive.

Your RPM's seem a big higher than that.

Did you have the problem before you worked on the ICV & TB?
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:55 PM   #4
willysalazar1
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I have this problem for over 4 months now . I cleaned everything thinking It will get better


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Old 03-31-2017, 08:57 PM   #5
willysalazar1
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Originally Posted by Solidjake View Post
Engine mounts.

I did EVERYTHING to fix that vibrations (spark plugs/boots, intake boots, disa, vacuum hoses, etc etc etc). Its the engine mounts. When they get worn out they will create the vibration when the gear is engaged to the transmission. If you can do the transmission mounts at the same time then that would be idea. Stick with the Lemforder/Corteco brand.


Thanks jake . I don't know how old the engine mounts are . It's there any way to test they bad ? I am on a thigh budget right know new baby coming in a few months


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Old 04-01-2017, 04:46 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willysalazar1 View Post
I have this problem for over 4 months now . I cleaned everything thinking It will get better
Did you check your power brake booster for leaks?

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1057387

Sucking Jet Pump Links

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1061188

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=523763

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=578766
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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 04-01-2017, 05:52 AM   #7
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I can tell you when my 330Ci was brand new, It shifted in "R" and "D" a lot smoother and the RPM didn't drop to the point the car felt like it was gonna stall but now 14 years later @ 90k miles my car's idle drops to about 600 and shakes like it's gonna stall when I put it into gear but it never does. I even did a trans drain and fill and also replaced the rear diff fluid and it still does it. My car drives fine and shifts as it always did. Although Jake makes a good point. I too never checked my engine mounts and that makes sense.
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Ready to get destroyed?
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:49 PM   #8
willysalazar1
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Originally Posted by ReIntegration View Post
I can tell you when my 330Ci was brand new, It shifted in "R" and "D" a lot smoother and the RPM didn't drop to the point the car felt like it was gonna stall but now 14 years later @ 90k miles my car's idle drops to about 600 and shakes like it's gonna stall when I put it into gear but it never does. I even did a trans drain and fill and also replaced the rear diff fluid and it still does it. My car drives fine and shifts as it always did. Although Jake makes a good point. I too never checked my engine mounts and that makes sense.


Thanks for your replay Reintegration, I just order mounts , I am not 100% sure will fix the problem but they are ready too be change at 96k miles I will report after . Also will read jfof brake booster leaks my breaks aren't very good so maybe is another problem



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Old 04-01-2017, 01:40 PM   #9
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Confirm your typical elevation, seems you should be around 1700 feet above sea level? This may be a factor to consider when comparing behaviors.

I am like 300 feet above see level.
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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 04-01-2017, 01:43 PM   #10
willysalazar1
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Confirm your typical elevation, seems you should be around 1700 feet above sea level? This may be a factor to consider when comparing behaviors.



I am like 300 feet above see level.


Good afternoon jfof I am at 540 meters 1770 ft above sea level


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Old 04-20-2017, 11:26 PM   #11
willysalazar1
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Hi . Can some look at my Diagnostic Report car runs good but still vibrates when idle

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4n9ww8eqmx...4-20.html?dl=0




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Old 04-20-2017, 11:37 PM   #12
willysalazar1
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Log report

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hkdul64ksd...20827.csv?dl=0


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Old 04-21-2017, 07:45 AM   #13
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1770 Feet is pretty high for my point of reference. I assume the MAF reading may be lower as you increase in altitude, there is clearly less Oxygen and I believe the Mass decreases, but I have no if the engine actually uses more air at idle?

Anyway the Fuel Trims look pretty good.

I would like to see an Log only at idle and a Diagnostic Report while at idle.

What is a bit troubling is the P0741 - Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

While this code is for a Torque Converter Clutch Performance or Stuck Off, I am now wondering if some of your problem is a problem with the Torque Converter or circuit??

I see the title of the thread as Bad RPM's drop in D and R. What is the engine idle in gear consistently? Most automatic E46's tend to idle right at 700 in gear. Does your engine idle at 700 RPM? Is the idle rough?
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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:51 PM   #14
willysalazar1
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Thanks jfoj here's the idle logs and reports

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ij6jvj4tdt...4-21.html?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2eqvgyf7b5...23525.csv?dl=0

Code P0741 shows up every week or so I just clear it and keep driving . My rpm idle around 710 and 730 rpm's .

Hope these report tell a bigger picture




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Old 04-21-2017, 01:19 PM   #15
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Personally, I think you are throwing good money after bad. You need somebody that knows a thing or two to look at your car. You are like the Polish mine sweeper, you cover your ears with your hands so the noise doesn't hurt, then stomp along the side of the road banging your feet on the ground looking for mines. This is a bad way to fix a car. It's difficult to read how violent or mild the shaking is. You need somebody onsite to help you understand what you are facing.

Normal idle in P or N should be about 700 to 750 rpm. When you shift into R or D, the idle should fall by about 100. Motor mounts should not cause a vibration, although at a certain harmonic they could play a role. A harmonic is a speed that is a multiple or derivative of another speed.
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Old 04-21-2017, 01:25 PM   #16
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P07nn is a transmission code. Your vibrations in R or D can easily be from transmission related causes. You can't just clear the codes and keep going. Well, that's not entirely true. You can clear codes and keep going to see if they or a subset of them come back, then set about to make the repairs. Your car is screaming at you that the transmission is not happy, and you are asking about a vibration that happens at idle when the transmission is not in P or N. You are FEELING an unhappy transmission and the car is confirming an unhappy transmission.

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0741
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Old 04-21-2017, 01:26 PM   #17
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Your idle speed is good at 710 to 730 rpm. It might even be a bit on the high side, but it's not alarming or reason to buy a new set of wrenches.
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Old 04-21-2017, 01:34 PM   #18
willysalazar1
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Thanks for the reply jd I know I have a unhappy transmission the thing is here in Mexico there's is no good shop to fix it I've been all over my town without luck . Dealers will charge me what my car is worth . Transmission oil and filter will be done by me this weekend I will report back about the code coming back . Regarding my shaking I change my plugs just now and is gone . After testing with a voltmeter 3 of them were 0 ohms . Car runs better now


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