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Old 04-20-2017, 07:57 PM   #21
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Looking at the picture again, it appears the grease is leaking around the bolt heads, not the split in the sheet metal shield.


Yup, i've wiped the area clean a few times over the past few months. I originally thought I just ran over something in a construction area around my old house, but then it kept reappearing...
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:56 AM   #22
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Hi Evan,

We're very sorry to hear of the issues. If the bolts are in fact tight and you can't seem to find any other issue other than the axle itself being faulty, just let us know and we'd be more than happy to get you setup with a replacement under our Lifetime Replacement Guarantee.

I know your in contact with Gareth, our BMW Product Manager, but you can also reach us at Service@FCPEuro.com.

We sincerely apologize for any inconveniences but we hope to get this rectified for you.

Thanks for your continued patience.

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Old 04-21-2017, 11:06 AM   #23
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Hi Evan,

We're very sorry to hear of the issues. If the bolts are in fact tight and you can't seem to find any other issue other than the axle itself being faulty, just let us know and we'd be more than happy to get you setup with a replacement under our Lifetime Replacement Guarantee.

I know your in contact with Gareth, our BMW Product Manager, but you can also reach us at Service@FCPEuro.com.

We sincerely apologize for any inconveniences but we hope to get this rectified for you.

Thanks for your continued patience.

Jason@FCPEuro
Hi Jason,

Unfortunately like I said previously I do not have the means of having the axles replaced at this time so a replacement will not do me any good. I have heard of FCP covering labor costs under certain circumstances but I'm not sure this falls in that category.

Thanks
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:26 PM   #24
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Jfoj,

I purchased some new jack stands and a jack, and got under the car tonight to adjust ride height...every single axle bolt was loose and one was 1/4 of the way hanging out. I can assure you I torqued these when I installed them. What do this mean? There was grease EVERYWHERE.
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Old 05-05-2017, 10:32 AM   #25
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Looks like used parts that were painted over to appear new. That's what reman parts are. as long as the important parts are good (steel balls, grease, boots, pins, clips) etc.
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Old 05-05-2017, 10:33 AM   #26
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if that reman company took a wire wheel to the part before repainting, it wouldve never flaked and you wouldve never known. of course i'm sure margin is so thin, to do so would be cost-prohibitive
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Old 05-05-2017, 12:44 PM   #27
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I used to work in the aftermarket replacement parts business in the corporate office.

Remanufactured parts are NOT hit with a wire brush and painted over. Remanufactured parts are stripped to the components. Hard parts (castings, etc) are typically stripped, boiled, and treated (or painted if called for). Essentially impossible to tell a core from a new part. The cores are reassembled with new parts (wear parts, seals, etc). Some companies are better than others for sure, and some of the components are certainly better than others. Having worked in that business, I'd have no qualms about using a remanufactured part from a quality and reputable remanufacturer.
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Old 05-05-2017, 12:53 PM   #28
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Thanks for the insight Geo. These axles are not remanufactured however. They are "brand new" from GKN.


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Old 05-05-2017, 01:00 PM   #29
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Jfoj,

I purchased some new jack stands and a jack, and got under the car tonight to adjust ride height...every single axle bolt was loose and one was 1/4 of the way hanging out. I can assure you I torqued these when I installed them. What do this mean? There was grease EVERYWHERE.
Well to put in very simple terms, the bolts likely were not properly torqued for some reason. Unless there was something that caused the axle flange from fully seating, the bolts were torqued and something slipped/shifted or the bolts possibly stretched, but this is unlikely, then this is the only thing that comes to mind where the bolts would have been properly torqued and them come loose.

It boils down to what is called "clamp load". If enough clamp load is performed, nothing shifts or collapses and the bolts do not stretch, then the bolts should have stayed tight.

Not sure what spec and tool was used to torque the bolts, but I have seen problems with wrong torque specs and possibly the tool used to torque the bolts was not set properly.

As I mentioned the last axle I saw leaking was after a body shop repair on a car, 12-18 months later, where there was grease that was leaking, turned out the bolts were just slightly over finger tight when I go to it. I think I was able to turn the bolts about anther 1/2 turn each. Not sure how tight the bolts were originally, but bolts do not just back off by themselves. Between the clamp load, bolt stretch and friction between the bolt head, things should not loosen up if and when properly torqued.
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:02 PM   #30
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Well to put in very simple terms, the bolts likely were not properly torqued for some reason. Unless there was something that caused the axle flange from fully seating, the bolts were torqued and something slipped/shifted or the bolts possibly stretched, but this is unlikely, then this is the only thing that comes to mind where the bolts would have been properly torqued and them come loose.



It boils down to what is called "clamp load". If enough clamp load is performed, nothing shifts or collapses and the bolts do not stretch, then the bolts should have stayed tight.



Not sure what spec and tool was used to torque the bolts, but I have seen problems with wrong torque specs and possibly the tool used to torque the bolts was not set properly.



As I mentioned the last axle I saw leaking was after a body shop repair on a car, 12-18 months later, where there was grease that was leaking, turned out the bolts were just slightly over finger tight when I go to it. I think I was able to turn the bolts about anther 1/2 turn each. Not sure how tight the bolts were originally, but bolts do not just back off by themselves. Between the clamp load, bolt stretch and friction between the bolt head, things should not loosen up if and when properly torqued.


Gotcha, none the less i'll be replacing the axles. thank the lord for FCPs warranty...
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:06 PM   #31
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I am just guessing based on the bolt size they should be torqued somewhere around 60 ft/lbs?? I have not looked up the value but it would be interesting to see what the toque value actually is for these axle flange bolts.
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:09 PM   #32
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I am just guessing based on the bolt size they should be torqued somewhere around 60 ft/lbs?? I have not looked up the value but it would be interesting to see what the toque value actually is for these axle flange bolts.


Don't have my computer on hand with the manual at the moment but from what I've found on the internet it's 74 NM so yes about 54-55 ft lbs


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Old 05-05-2017, 01:15 PM   #33
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I would suggest a criss/cross torque sequence, like a wheel on a car. I would also probably torque these in 2 steps, one about 1/2 the final value, then triple check the torque after the final tightening.

I tend to triple check key safety related bolts as a LONG time habit. It usually only takes a few extra seconds and IMHO it is worth the time to TRIPLE check rather than DOUBLE check.
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:17 PM   #34
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I purchased some new jack stands and a jack, and got under the car tonight to adjust ride height...every single axle bolt was loose and one was 1/4 of the way hanging out. I can assure you I torqued these when I installed them. What do this mean? There was grease EVERYWHERE.
people often don't torque these correctly. or they get grease in the threads and it throws off specs. with axles I always check after because of the odd angle installing and forces on it.

throwing grease from the bolt holes is a common sign bolts aren't evenly torqued.

personally I would not change those axles. cleaning the bolts and threads with brake cleaner and using Locktite when reinstalling should be all is needed.
torque to spec, go back around in a star pattern and you should be good to go. check back in about 10 days. i've done this at least five times on my E46s when swapping diffs.
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:20 PM   #35
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I would suggest a criss/cross torque sequence, like a wheel on a car. I would also probably torque these in 2 steps, one about 1/2 the final value, then triple check the torque after the final tightening.



I tend to triple check key safety related bolts as a LONG time habit. It usually only takes a few extra seconds and IMHO it is worth the time to TRIPLE check rather than DOUBLE check.

I will definitely be more meticulous this time around.

Quote:
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people often don't torque these correctly. or they get grease in the threads and it throws off specs. with axles I always check after because of the odd angle installing and forces on it.



throwing grease from the bolt holes is a common sign bolts aren't evenly torqued.



personally I would not change those axles. cleaning the bolts and threads with brake cleaner and using Locktite when reinstalling should be all is needed.

torque to spec, go back around in a star pattern and you should be good to go. check back in about 10 days. i've done this at least five times on my E46s when swapping diffs.

Given the amount of time grease has been flinging around back there I would not be confident that there is the proper amount in the joint anymore. There is A LOT of grease back there now, much more than there was a few months ago. Mostly due to the 16 hour drive from Ohio to Florida i'm guessing. Here's a video I took last night. I think they need replaced. It's not that bad of a job.

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Old 05-05-2017, 01:27 PM   #36
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I used to work in the aftermarket replacement parts business in the corporate office.

Remanufactured parts are NOT hit with a wire brush and painted over. Remanufactured parts are stripped to the components. Hard parts (castings, etc) are typically stripped, boiled, and treated (or painted if called for). Essentially impossible to tell a core from a new part. The cores are reassembled with new parts (wear parts, seals, etc). Some companies are better than others for sure, and some of the components are certainly better than others. Having worked in that business, I'd have no qualms about using a remanufactured part from a quality and reputable remanufacturer.
yeah. no i'm saying the parts, particularly the parts in the OP's pics, SHOULD'VE been wire brushed or some other measure before painted.

obviously paint was globbed onto rusty parts and the paint is simply chipping away revealing the rust
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Old 05-05-2017, 01:29 PM   #37
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I would suggest a criss/cross torque sequence,
like this?

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Old 05-05-2017, 01:33 PM   #38
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Received a brand new axle from FCP Euro that is rusted out of the box...

This is what Gareth believes the problem is.



He ordered in an axle to further investigate the issue...

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Old 05-07-2017, 10:27 AM   #39
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I am having a problem with my recent order from FCP. Ordered a BMW fuel filter and 4 clamps and what they shipped me was a fuel filter out of the box with one of the plastic covers on one of the nipples and one clamp. Not sure if the filter is supposed to come like this without its own box but should I be worried?


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Old 05-07-2017, 11:13 AM   #40
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I am having a problem with my recent order from FCP. Ordered a BMW fuel filter and 4 clamps and what they shipped me was a fuel filter out of the box with one of the plastic covers on one of the nipples and one clamp. Not sure if the filter is supposed to come like this without its own box but should I be worried?


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I wouldn't be it's just a fuel filter. I doubt it's been installed and returned.
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