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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-17-2017, 04:44 PM   #41
omodos
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Hi thanks a million for the reply,and sorry i hijack your post, ok I haven't driven the car today, too much drink after easter bbq....! but when I started the car in the dark and press the cruise control button the green cruise control dial is illuminated, of course not sure this means it is working,,,will have to test tomorrow.....so if cruise control doesnt work we saying it is the brake switch ?

I get all 3 brake lights on and no warning on the dash about problem bulbs.....

As for the timing when all 3 brake lights come on after I turn key i will have to get someone to stand behind and tell me...it takes me 1-2 seconds to run out and check rear from drivers position.....

To be honest I think this has been going on for at least 1year and I did not notice....i only noticed now when i tried to do the fix for the burnt ground connector (in pic) which was causing indicators to not work....

either way fuse 9 is not blown and swapped it with the spare fuse too, same thing.PS car is an auto 2002 e46 318i n42 engine
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Last edited by omodos; 04-17-2017 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:58 PM   #42
omodos
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Have you tired disconnecting the battery and leaving like this for 30mins guy in this link says it worked for him , gonna try tomorrow

http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/archi...p/t-12822.html
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Old 04-18-2017, 03:52 AM   #43
omodos
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battery dicsonnect made no difference and whilst the green dial for cruise control comes on, the cruise control doesnt actually work

Last edited by omodos; 04-18-2017 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 04-18-2017, 12:37 PM   #44
pool0513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omodos View Post
battery dicsonnect made no difference and whilst the green dial for cruise control comes on, the cruise control doesnt actually work
Hey hey

Lucky you, it means that brake switch is dead. Its about 25 euros by here not so much when you own a BMW

For the battery disconnecting trick, I tried that when I encountered the problem and started digging the internet like you are doing by now.
In fact this trick is to force all the component (ZKE, IKE, LSZ, DDE, ...) to do a hard restart.
I don't need that anymore cause I bought all the cables and installed software that gave me the ability to do that logically

Anyway, thank you for pointing this

Now more than ever, my other question about the time that is spent between the moment you turn the ignition and the time the brake light come ON is very useful information for me.

Could you manage to have it for me please ?

Thank you

Last edited by pool0513; 04-18-2017 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 04-19-2017, 03:47 AM   #45
omodos
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Hey thanks for the feedback...... gonna double check your request lunchtime as not using he e46 just now but the x5 will get someone to stand back and i turn key and see how long it takes for 3 brake lights to come on, your diagnosis that my issue of all 3 lights on is my brake switch maybe a relief. but also maybe I haven't tested the cruise control at the right speed...i was only doing about 15-20mph enabled it by using the I/0 button (the green clock appears) I then pressed the + on steering wheel and no response ie speed never increased as it should.

PS you know that cruise control not working according to some posts here can be MAF....or other sensors, but not sure if this in conjuction with having the 3 brake lights on always whilst driving will mean it is more likely the brake switch ...

Last edited by omodos; 04-19-2017 at 04:19 AM.
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Old 04-19-2017, 07:37 AM   #46
omodos
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Now more than ever, my other question about the time that is spent between the moment you turn the ignition and the time the brake light come ON is very useful information for me.

Could you manage to have it for me please ?

Thank you[/QUOTE]

Yup did this, the 3 brake lights come on immediately when you turn key.....
and also for sure cruise control doesn't work checked this too.....hoping now it is a faulty switch or read that the switch can be physically adjusted also...maybe just stuck?
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Old 04-19-2017, 03:10 PM   #47
pool0513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omodos View Post
Yup did this, the 3 brake lights come on immediately when you turn key.....
and also for sure cruise control doesn't work checked this too.....hoping now it is a faulty switch or read that the switch can be physically adjusted also...maybe just stuck?
Yes he could be misplaced but he can't be stuck because it's a hall effect switch.

Thank you for your answer to my question. This comfort me in the idea that my LCM is the guilty part. Because mine take 3 sec to turn ON like if there was a software waiting for some signal that never comes.


I will update as soon as I get the new LCM.

Last edited by pool0513; 04-19-2017 at 03:11 PM.
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Old 04-20-2017, 01:03 AM   #48
omodos
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Originally Posted by pool0513 View Post
Yes he could be misplaced but he can't be stuck because it's a hall effect switch.

Thank you for your answer to my question. This comfort me in the idea that my LCM is the guilty part. Because mine take 3 sec to turn ON like if there was a software waiting for some signal that never comes.


I will update as soon as I get the new LCM.
Glad i can help, if it is your LCM would the dashboard display warnings about bulbs that are not working etc?just curious....I tested mine, removed bulbs etc and the dashboard shows this correctly..
So the switch has no way to be stuck and is not a plunger that goes up down on contact eh? hmmm thanks, will take a look see if i can make sense of it
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Old 04-20-2017, 12:20 PM   #49
pool0513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omodos View Post
Glad i can help, if it is your LCM would the dashboard display warnings about bulbs that are not working etc?just curious....I tested mine, removed bulbs etc and the dashboard shows this correctly..
So the switch has no way to be stuck and is not a plunger that goes up down on contact eh? hmmm thanks, will take a look see if i can make sense of it
Yes no way your switch is stuck.
And thinking about your case today, even if the switch was misplaced, the cruise control will work.
In fact that brake switch is two switches in one. In that little piece of plastic there is two switches one called the brake switch and the other one the test switch.
The test switch is the one used for cruise control. So if the switch was OK even misplaced the cruise control would work.
I can say 100% that your switch is dead.

For your question about the LCM and the dashboard showing errors, in my case, as I have the led mod, the check is disabled with NCSexpert on the LCM module, so the error will never show even if I unplug the bulbs.

Last edited by pool0513; 04-20-2017 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 04-21-2017, 12:14 AM   #50
omodos
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@pool0513 thanks for that gonna order a new switch found a febi bilstein made one from the uk ebay seller.....now way am going to dealer.....

crazy thing is still i think i have an issue somewhere because i have an indication on the dashbaord showing one of my front bulbs is out (and none are out as tested them all and they all light up fine-) but found this on this site so could be crappy bulbs i installed:
Smile Random bulb warnings for rear lights on E46 Saloon
My E46 saloon is 5 years old and I have owned it 18 months, during which I have had several rear bulb warnings. I have cleaned contacts, cleaned plugs and sockets on light units, sprayed all contacts with contact spray only to find the warnings would re-appear within a day. Being an automotive engineer by trade I applied a little consumer logic, and that is. All bulbs are manufactured to fail and so I checked with the previous owner and he had never changed a rear bulb, but had often had the rear bulb warning. So were the bulbs wearing, the set resistance in the filaments increasing, they looked OK but they had been in the car for 5 years. I bought a full set of rear light bulbs including the interior boot (trunk) lights, a set of BOSCH bulbs from a BOSCH dealer. This was three months ago and I haven't had a problem since, the cost was just over 20 a little less than a BMW main dealer would charge. I hope this is of help.

Last edited by omodos; 04-21-2017 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 04-23-2017, 04:00 PM   #51
pool0513
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Hello Guys,

Ok I received the new LCM.
I have replaced the old one, did the proper coding (no tamper dot )

BUT I STILL HAVE MY BRAKE LIGHT ON

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

I'm gonna shoot myself

What I have done so far :

New brake switch
New tails
New LCM

So does anyone have an idea on what could cause the f**** brake light ON ?

Please guys really need help on this one.

Also I have a bunch of error codes with pasoft.

Here they are, if this could be of any help :

ABS
5E14 [20084] --> CAN Timeout DME/DDE ---> Yellow (Fault currently not present) But still there after multiple clearing

A/C
20 [032] --> AUC heating ---> Red (Fault currently present)

DDE
1D00 [07424] --> Error number 1D00 ---> Yellow (Fault currently not present) But still there after multiple clearing

IKE
CE [206] --> Outside temperature sensor ---> Red (Fault currently present)

LEW
09 [009] --> No CAN message (ASC) ---> Red (Fault currently present)

ZKE
6B [107] --> No answer passenger mirror ---> Red (Fault currently present)
6C [108] --> No answer driver mirror ---> Red (Fault currently present)
0D [013] --> Power window: Open circuit Jam protection strip or lost scaling/Error EKS electronic Driver's Door ---> Red (Fault currently present)
0E [014] --> Power window: Open circuit Jam protection strip or lost scaling/Error EKS electronic Passenger Door ---> Red (Fault currently present)

(PS: for the ZKE errors, all my windows are working well.)

Hope someone out there could help me understand all these code and maybe teach me how to solve them.

I'm starting to think that the errors of the ABS and the LEW the ones relating to CAN could be in relation with the brake light issue, am I wrong ?
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:36 PM   #52
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I gotta ask the Stupid Question, perhaps the Really Stupid Question...

Are the Brake lights on, or the tail lamps? There are dual filament bulbs, one filament is the running lights, the other is the brake lights. All of the bulbs fit into the bulb holder that then fits into the lamp housing. Are you using the correct bulbs in the proper holders fitted into the proper sockets? Do the lights get brighter when you apply the brakes? If the lighting system is on and you apply the brakes, do they go off?

Now for the Stupid Question, or Really Stupid Question... Are the daytime running lights activated on the car?

If the DRLs are on and a lamp, holder, or the socket it is fitted into are wrong, the brakes lights can be on because of a crap-tastic ground that is working its way around the tail lamp housing to find a path that it can work with. If the lights are on, and something goes off or dim when the brake are applied, then you have a grounding issue where another lighting source is seeking a path to ground and finding it in the brake lamp bulbs. When you apply the brakes the lighting situation changes. Typically, a brake lamp might work -- and appear to be proper -- until the main lights are turned on, then the brake lights stop working. Your issue is the reverse, I think, but you really haven't told us enough. You need to use a helper or an observer, either way you need two people, and you have to physically observe what is happening at the back of the car when the lights are on and off, and the brakes are applied, then notate what happens. There could be a clue.

Also, is there anything new with the tail lamps? Have you used a volt meter to observe the voltages applied to the tail lamp assemblies? Physically remove the tail lamps from the car, carefully inspect the inside of the connector of the tail lamp and the vehicle wiring harness. With the tail lamps out of the car, plug your meter into the connector socket where the BRN wire is, this is ground. Test that there is continuity from this wire to a qualified ground. If not then you have a stray voltage working its way backwards through the wiring searching for a ground. Typically, a ground is found via the running lights, and when the running lights are on the ground goes away and the brake lights go off, but your problem is the reverse so I expect this to test out okay. Can you take a brake light out of one side of the car and see if it affects the other side? There are lots of tests that you should not have to do, but you are grasping at straws here so now we need to figure out as many straws as we can.

You are using PA Soft, or something like it, and the diagnostic utility is telling you that the brake light switch is turning on and off. Can you unplug the brake light switch and see what happens? Put your meter on the brake light switch and see if you can observe it to change state. For some reason the brakes lights pass through the main lighting switch (Lighting Control Module), and the only reason I can think of to do this -- for an engineer to do this -- is to monitor that the system is working or to make it work in a particular fashion -- check that it's working or code the way that one wants it to work.
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