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Instrument Cluster LED Conversion (pics)

353K views 530 replies 105 participants last post by  CroVlado 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok first up, thanks to wooboodoo for his thread here on how to make this possible. This is my first DIY so i'm going to try do it right!

This is how my Instrument Cluster (IKE) looked before I started:


I wanted it to have white dials/clocks, a blue LCD, red needles and the silver gauge surrounds. The red needles were done with the usual Sharpie DIY, i got a set of silver gauge rings off ebay for £18 delivered and bought all my LED + soldering equipment from led-depot.co.uk.

OK first up removing the cluster, there are 2 x T20 screws above the clusters front 'window'. Remove those and the unit will slide forward. Depending on your driving style you may need to drop the steering wheel and pull it back. Use the lever underneath. The IKE will come a way out before the cables snag. There are 2, if you look they are similar in style, push the catch down and the lever arm will slide over and release the clips. You will be left with a nice hole:


To dismantle the cluster first remove the 'brow' from the top of the unit on the front. This is simply 2 little clips you press and it will slide out:


Next flip it over and remove the screws. Not all of the holes on any cluster i have seen seem to be populated so remove any Torx screw. Screws removed:


There are then a set of plastic clips around the two halves holding it together. Gently release them:


Now with the cluster sat on its back hold the front face down and pull off the trip reset and clock adjust knobs. They are just rubber covers and will pull off, do it slowly. Once these are off simply lift the cover up and it will come away from the unit:


You can lift the gauges out of the back cover but i found it makes a perfect holder so i didn't damage components on the back and left it there. The two plastic overlays at the bottom (one on the left and right) that cover your warning light areas just lift off, remove them. Now the tricky part, the needles. Starting with a less important one (I did fuel and temp first) pinch the centre cap of the needle between thumb and finger and rotate it anti-clockwise whilst lifting. Ignore any slight resistance you feel this is fine and lift the needles off. Remove the MPG before RPM or you will get stuck!


Once the needles are off the plastic overlay with the markings on simply lifts off. If you lift the PCB out of the back half of the housing there are 4 metal clips where the LCD is that need to be unclipped before the front white plastic cover will come off:


Now i have not soldered anything for well over 10 years (the last time i did it was in school for some lame project) so you do not need to be a whizz at it. All you need is patience, you don't want to lift any traces or break anything. The little cluster of LED's around each pin is what illuminates that dial. Wooboodoo has a great image in his thread. There are 4 LEDs on the RPM and Speed, 2 on fuel and temp and 1 on the MPG. Please remember LEDs have a polarity, indicated by a notch on the corner of the LED. When fitting a new LED please make sure you put them back the right way! Here is my first LED removed from the Speed gauge, you can see it just behind the pin sticking up.


They are easy to remove. Gently heat the solder joint on one side of the LED and using a pair of tweezers or very small pliers gently lift that side once the solder has melted. Repeat on the other side and the LED will come off the board. PLEASE DO NOT RUSH THIS. You could lift a trace off the board which would be a PITA to fix. I did this whole thing with no muck ups in around 2 hours. Here is my first 'aftermarket' LED installed. You can see it has a yellow top compared to the BMW ones which have a white top.


Now after i had done the speed and rpm LEDs i plugged it in with the car lights on to test if they worked. If you can imagine the centre of each dial you can see the new white LEDs. Excuse the bad photo it was broad daylight outside...


Now i know it was working i carried on with the rest of the LEDs. Once these are done it is on with the LCD. IMPORTANT - As soon as you lift the LCD out mark which of the two 'foam bits' is top and bottom, this will save you big headaches. The LCD is fragile glass so be careful with it.


In the above image i have already removed the orange backing on the LCD to get rid of the orange glow it has. This simply peels off the back of the screen. IMPORTANT - There is a very fine blue film under this orange film, make sure you do not lift this as it is a part of the LCD and will break it. With this film removed you can pop it back in place as that is now ready. After putting it all back together i didnt like how the LCD looked, the orange film made it glow rather than be a bright illumination. I cut around the orange film on a piece of normal white paper and put this in its place. Perfect. The paper 'glows' blue from the LEDs behind and the LCD looks good. Camera was crap so you can't see the LCD well and the blue looks a different colour...


At this point you can swap any LED in the cluster you want. Simply hold the plastic overlays on the board to see which LEDs do what and away you go. I swapped the ones that do the picture of the car which shows when doors are open. Thats now white also.

This is the finished product, i will get some night shots in a few hours when it goes dark. The neighbours think i'm a moron for taking pictures of my dash with a towel over my head...


As the saying goes, re-assembly is a reversal of removal or something like that.

**When you come to put the needles back on start with the needle at the top end of the dial. As you SLOWLY and GENTLY push it down and turn it anti-clockwise you will have to push it down enough to be on firmly but not to touch the dial face. As you turn it you will feel a point where it kind of stops. Keep pushing this anti-clockwise until it reaches where the needle should stop normally. It should now turn clockwise freely to the top of the gauge and then freely back until it hits the stop point.***

This is my first DIY and constructive criticism is welcome. I did break my clusters the first time i did this and had to buy a new set and get them coded to my car. Cost me just over £100 to do this so i hope this DIY means other people can do it without that expense. If you want larger images emailing to you PM me and i will fire them over. There are also a lot more than shown here.

Thanks!
 
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#2 ·
Great job !!! :thumbsup:

did you paint the needles red?

Regards,
mark
 
#4 ·
As promised some shots of the new IKE LEDs in the dark:

















Let me know what you think. The blue really hasn't come out well, the camera has the colour way off and it looks a lot brighter in the pics. I like the white back light though, not harsh on the eyes and looks really clean.

Thanks.
 
#5 ·
nice job. that's exactly what i did with my spare cluster. the only problem i have is the LCD part and the orange film. I'm trying to make that white as well, but can't find anything good to use as a filter. it seems to glow peach lol

btw, for your LCD, might want to try using one of those clear plastic folder (cheap ones that are kind of flimsy), and a piece of paper behind that. that's what i did and it turned out well. even for red too. they just don't sell those damn folders in white lol
 
#6 ·
Try a piece of paper and one of those A4 pockets you can put them in. I liked the look of white dials and white needles, tempted to swap them out, it was very clean. Might try tinkering with a white LCD setup on my spare cluster and see what happens.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
#14 ·
i've done the piece of paper by itself, or with multiple layers but it's not uniform enough

could you link me to the a4 pocket you're referring to? i'm not coming up with anything lol. yea i'm doing the same thing, figuring out all the kinks on my spare cluster before doing it on my car.
 
#11 ·
Yes it is turned down as the blue is way too bright. This weekend I'm adding another filter to the blue LCD or maybe changing to White so I can have it on full power and not have a mega bright blue screen. Will post up pics when it's sorted.
 
#13 ·
lol. i am trying to decide if i want to get another cluster and do this or just go ahead and do this on my cluster.

probably just do it on mine. please turn it up and post a few pics. i want to see what the white looks like turned up bright. also i cant decide if i want blue. i wonder if there is anyway to change the radio screen to another color.
 
#17 ·
I would try the blob of glue but then it may be a PITA to remove the LEDs in the future i can simply add a slightly thicker piece of paper in front of them to filter out more light. also changing resistors again makes it harder to change in the future. thanks for the thought though :)
 
#19 ·
The only thing that is a bulb is the headlight 'main beam' blue icon at the top. I have no idea why all the others are LEDs and this is a filament bulb... You would need to remove the old LED, simply de-solder, and solder a new LED in its place. That should fix it if it's the LED that is broken.
 
#20 ·
Hey everyone
I'm new to this site and new to BMW ownership!
Just wanted to say what a fantastic guide this is, and what a great place this is to talk to other owners!

Following this guide I got stuck in and swapped out some LED's in my dash. I ordered 10 LEDs to get started from ebay for a couple of quid.
Now I have ordered more and am going to finish the job and get started on other elements in the car such as the aircon controls etc. Will do my bit by posting guides as I go!

Anyway, here is the picture of my dash! I'm so pleased! I will go back in and swap out the LED's behind the LCD later in the week when more LEDs arrive!

 
#21 ·
ps when opening up my dash I actually found two LED's that had come off, one was the airbag warning led, plus two tiny resistors. I managed to find their homes and put them back on. I was worried that the airbag light would come on straight away but thank goodness id didint.
Did anyone else experience something like this?
 
#23 ·
Glad to see other fanatics found the DIY useful. I am still experimenting with my clusters even now. Trying different filter material behind the LCD for a good look that aint too bright. Also swapping between my red and white needles to find a combination i like. White needles take the colour of the backlight which can be quite cool. I would love to try the UV LEDs behind the LCD with a white filter to make it kind of glow, slightly like a VW i suppose. I do like the clusters in them. Feel free to PM me any time if you have any thoughts.

Scott.
 
#25 ·
well today I did the air con unit and the light unit. Looks great!!
I used the white plastic from an ice cream tub to put behind the screen of the aircon unit. Being in the UK everything in our cars is on the opposite sides.

Looks absolutely stunning! Makes my 12 yearold car have such a modern feel to it.

Interestingly when it was built in 1998 I was 16 years old.. I remember at the time (i was really into electronics) that blue LED's were quite expensive as they hadnt been around for more than a year or two. I remember ordering some in from my local electrical store and it costing just under £5 for 3 of them. They definatly wernt in any consumer products until a few years later. Probably somewhat similar to the recent breakthrough that made blue lasers affordable and so have found their way into blue ray players and playstation 3. I remember again that white LED's wernt easy to come buy until a couple more years later.
I would guess that this is why the only "blue" light in the entire vehicle is the high beam headlight indicator, which as we all know is actually a regular light bulb with a filament and a blue filter in front of it.


I selectively left some of the LED's in place so my hot/cold air control now has a blue under the cold button and red under the hot.
I also took the green LED's out of the airflow buttons and replaced them with red ones, so now I have blue illuminated buttons that change to red when the button is engaged.

The air recycle button now has green LED's when activated, blue when deactivated (green = recycling, get it??!).

I think I am going to leave the screen in the dashboard as red. It makes for a nice contrast and has a more elaborate feel than the entire dash being blue.
Will grab some pics tomorrow.. currently having fun with the FSU so my battery is on charge for the 2nd night in a row. New battery and FSU me thinks...
 
#30 ·
I really need to decide on colours. I wish i could change them all with the push of a button then i could be happy every day ha!

*goes away to think*
 
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