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The Tire Rack's Tire & Wheel Forum
Use this forum to discuss anything in relation to wheels to tires to offsets.
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Old 02-06-2017, 02:10 AM   #1
AbdullaJaafari
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No replies on the wheels section, so will these 18" fit/rub?

Front: 18X8.5" 5X120MM ET30

Rear: 18X9.5" 5X120MM ET35


I will also be getting HSD MonoPro coilovers, and will lower the vehicle slightly.
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:23 AM   #2
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Old 02-07-2017, 01:26 PM   #3
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The wheels won't rub but the tires might. What size tires are you planning to use?
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Old 02-07-2017, 01:53 PM   #4
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They certainly rub me the wrong way.
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Old 02-07-2017, 03:20 PM   #5
AbdullaJaafari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lingon300k View Post
They certainly rub me the wrong way.
LOL


Quote:
Originally Posted by goodmanr View Post
The wheels won't rub but the tires might. What size tires are you planning to use?
I'm still not sure what's the correct tire size to get, but I'm guessing (Just guessing)

Rear 275/35R18
Front 245/35R18
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Old 02-07-2017, 04:27 PM   #6
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The car should take a 225/40x18. This will give a overall tire diameter if about 25 inches. A 275/35 will almost be an offroad tire by comparison. Maybe not... The 225/40 is 25.086 inches diameter, a 275/35 works out to be 25.578 inches. This should be okay.

Here's the deal, you have an 8x17, ET41. This gives you from the tire to the fender. You are adding an inch to the total width of the wheel, plus moving it outboard by 6mm. Do you have 1.25 inches clearance with the existing tire package? If yes, then you should be okay.

275 is the width in millimeters. 35 is the aspect ratio -- the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the width.

275 x .35 = 96.25 (this is the distance of the bead to the tread -- the sidewall)
96.25 x 2 = 192.5 (you need the sidewall on both sides of center to get the overall diameter of the tire)
192.5 / 25.4 = 7.578 (this converts millimeters to inches)
7.578 + 18 = 25.578 (this is the overall diameter of the tire)

Now that you have the formula, you can mix and match the numbers, then calculate what the diameter will be.

On the surface, it seems to me that a 275 should be too wide to fit under the car, 50 millimeters wider than the tires that come on the car as the largest factory option. You need to know what you have, which should be a 7.5-inch or 8-inch wheel now and see if you have the space between the existing tire and the fender to fit the new wheel/tire package. When calculating the new width, you also have to know the ET (offset) change and add that distance to the outward shift of the new package.

This is a page that shows all of the factory wheel packages. You can see what the factory fitment specifications are, and then understand what might fit under your car.

http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/
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Old 02-08-2017, 12:33 AM   #7
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those tire sizes are too wide and will rub. consider 225 for the front and 245 for the rear. also depends on your suspension setup
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Old 02-08-2017, 01:32 AM   #8
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I think the factory spec 225/40 front and 255/35 rear would be good, you'll have a mild stretch. These are standard tyre size for coupes on oem 8 / 8.5 staggered set up.

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Old 02-08-2017, 02:38 AM   #9
AbdullaJaafari
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I'm originally now on

17x8.5 245/45
17x7.5 225/45

So going with wider wheels, I definitely need wider tires, no? and I'm against stretching..


Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
The car should take a 225/40x18. This will give a overall tire diameter if about 25 inches. A 275/35 will almost be an offroad tire by comparison. Maybe not... The 225/40 is 25.086 inches diameter, a 275/35 works out to be 25.578 inches. This should be okay.
The difference between these two tires isn't huge.. and I'm only increasing the width to get more rubber on the ground and around the wheel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
Here's the deal, you have an 8x17, ET41. This gives you from the tire to the fender. You are adding an inch to the total width of the wheel, plus moving it outboard by 6mm. Do you have 1.25 inches clearance with the existing tire package? If yes, then you should be okay.
there's currently some clearance, and I was thinking of lowering the vehicle slightly to get the fitment right ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
275 is the width in millimeters. 35 is the aspect ratio -- the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the width.

275 x .35 = 96.25 (this is the distance of the bead to the tread -- the sidewall)
96.25 x 2 = 192.5 (you need the sidewall on both sides of center to get the overall diameter of the tire)
192.5 / 25.4 = 7.578 (this converts millimeters to inches)
7.578 + 18 = 25.578 (this is the overall diameter of the tire)

Now that you have the formula, you can mix and match the numbers, then calculate what the diameter will be.
Makes total sense, I will do some measurements today to compare the tire size ..
One more useful tool that I've used (How I came up with the above tire sizes) showed me the difference between how it is now and how it will be is this:
http://www.tire-size-calculator.info/

looking at the graphical render with the old vs new sizes, the wheel/tire fitment looks very similar, but then ofcourse it can't show fitment with the fender..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland View Post
On the surface, it seems to me that a 275 should be too wide to fit under the car, 50 millimeters wider than the tires that come on the car as the largest factory option. You need to know what you have, which should be a 7.5-inch or 8-inch wheel now and see if you have the space between the existing tire and the fender to fit the new wheel/tire package. When calculating the new width, you also have to know the ET (offset) change and add that distance to the outward shift of the new package.

This is a page that shows all of the factory wheel packages. You can see what the factory fitment specifications are, and then understand what might fit under your car.

http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/
Yeah that's the link I used to find the specs of my current wheel (mentioned above)

Thanks for taking the time to reply dude

Quote:
Originally Posted by BE46N View Post
I think the factory spec 225/40 front and 255/35 rear would be good, you'll have a mild stretch. These are standard tyre size for coupes on oem 8 / 8.5 staggered set up.

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I'm now on
Rear 17x8.5 245/45
Front 17x7.5 225/45
and going to 18x9.5 and 18x8.5 is going wider, so I need wider tires ..

Quote:
Originally Posted by evanr614 View Post
those tire sizes are too wide and will rub. consider 225 for the front and 245 for the rear. also depends on your suspension setup
That's what I'm already on with the 9.5 and 8.5
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Old 02-08-2017, 12:44 PM   #10
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You don't NEED wider tires with wider wheels. wider wheels + wider tires = higher possibility of rubbing, especially since you said you plan on lowering the vehicle. 225/255 will work just fine.I'm not a veteran here but I've got through 4 sets of wheels in the ownership of my E46 and have a really good idea of what works and what doesn't, especially for a lowered vehicle. Those wheels you want are a very aggressive offset for your typical E46 owner and you will run into problems if you want those wide a$$ tires. Go to willtheyfit.com and it will tell you what kind of poke those new wheels and tires will give you...


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Old 02-08-2017, 12:53 PM   #11
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i'm currently lowred on BC racing while running VMR VB3

18x8.5 ET 40 235/45/18
18x9.5 ER 33 275/45/18

and this was the result of 200km on a brand new tire...just stretch to save yourself money and headache. ended up going 215 front and 225 rear. fits like a glove, no rubbing


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Old 02-09-2017, 12:43 AM   #12
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you could get away with 255 square if you wanted too and be okay even though the rims are staggered, you have plenty of room,
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:59 AM   #13
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Old 02-09-2017, 09:22 AM   #14
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The wheels that you are ordering are for an E46 M3, you should look for a setup for the standard E46. The M3 can handle bigger tires.
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Old 02-09-2017, 10:13 AM   #15
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Listen to what everyone is telling you, going to big is a mistake. did you research the hsd coil overs on this forum? they are poorly made and fall apart fast.
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:34 AM   #16
AbdullaJaafari
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanRot325ci View Post
i'm currently lowred on BC racing while running VMR VB3

18x8.5 ET 40 235/45/18
18x9.5 ER 33 275/45/18

and this was the result of 200km on a brand new tire...just stretch to save yourself money and headache. ended up going 215 front and 225 rear. fits like a glove, no rubbing

So if I was to go with 265/35R18 on 9.5 with ET35
I'd end up with this (Comparing what you have to what I have in mind):



I'm guessing with that much of a difference, I shouldn't be rubbing, no?
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:22 AM   #17
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The only way you'd get even close to not rubbing in the rear is with 245s...245s will be a stretch on a 9.5 wheel and even then, you will likely still rub. I'm not sure you are understanding the offset here. Lower offset number means the wheel is sticking out more. So you may be running a 245s now on your rear, but the wheel itself doesn't stick out as much so it is doable. ET35 with 9.5 is an aggressive setup for a non-M (unless you stretch which IMO looks tacky). The wheel is going to stick out more. To make it work you'll probably need to run a little negative camber, roll the fenders, and shave the little bumper tab off, along with running a max tire size of 245 (or some branded 255s, no idea which ones)..

I'd just buy proper fitting wheels, but that's me.
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Old 02-18-2017, 02:06 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by bimmernate View Post
The only way you'd get even close to not rubbing in the rear is with 245s...245s will be a stretch on a 9.5 wheel and even then, you will likely still rub. I'm not sure you are understanding the offset here. Lower offset number means the wheel is sticking out more. So you may be running a 245s now on your rear, but the wheel itself doesn't stick out as much so it is doable. ET35 with 9.5 is an aggressive setup for a non-M (unless you stretch which IMO looks tacky). The wheel is going to stick out more. To make it work you'll probably need to run a little negative camber, roll the fenders, and shave the little bumper tab off, along with running a max tire size of 245 (or some branded 255s, no idea which ones)..

I'd just buy proper fitting wheels, but that's me.
that makes perfect sense to me, but no one listens anymore.
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Old 02-18-2017, 10:01 PM   #19
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These cars don't take any sort of nice fitment without massaging. Even after the tons of work I have in my fenders they don't fit awesomely and still rub the edge of the bumper. If you want anything to look fitted, except to do some fender work. And don't resort to tons of camber just to make a wheel fit. Its too expensive and the car drives like sh!t
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Old 02-21-2017, 04:28 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by CarbonZHP View Post
These cars don't take any sort of nice fitment without massaging. Even after the tons of work I have in my fenders they don't fit awesomely and still rub the edge of the bumper. If you want anything to look fitted, except to do some fender work. And don't resort to tons of camber just to make a wheel fit. Its too expensive and the car drives like sh!t
That's the thing, I'm against camber and stretching. I just want straight mounted tires on nicely fitted wheels.

so should I just go for 18x8.5 all around?
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