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The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 02-21-2017, 12:10 AM   #1
PancakeBimmer
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: PNW
Posts: 263
My Ride: BMW 325i
Project WifeBeater (2002 330i)

Over the past few years I managed to **** up my 2002 325i beyond return, and now it is the time for another E46. Just kidding

It is an older build (01/2002) 2002 330i with automatic transmission. This was bought with some issues and with intention to fix. So here it goes. Going to do kind of a project log of things wrong and things getting fixed. I don't plan to sell this car what so ever, so that is something to keep in mind. Ohh yeah, the price. We were looking for a used car in 4-5k range, but since this was a steal the extra money will be used for parts. Right, the price. $1700

Issues as of 2/20/2017
  • Vibration from driveshaft and thunk after releasing gas pedal. Pretty sure it is bad driveshaft center support and possibly guibo as well.
  • Steering is funky. Most likely steering guibo.
  • Steering hose dangling loose. This was a shitty thing to notice after driving the car for 40 minutes.
  • Takes longer to warm up. Thermostat.
  • AC Belt is missing.
  • Leaking steering pump/reservoir. The usual.
  • Thunk from the engine which seems to increase with RPMs. Noticed this only at home, was't there when picked the car up. After watching three videos on youtube, could be loose spark plug.
  • Driver's door doesn't always open. Need to look at the door lock mechanism
  • Passenger window doesn't work. Regulator.
  • Plastic pieces scratched or missing. Meh, not priority for now.
  • Headlight lenses need a buff.
  • Some clear coat peeling. I mean come-on, the car is 15 years old.

The good things
  • Before the thunk, which is hopefully loose spark plug, the engine ran and idled great.
  • Transmission seems to shift well, but will need more testing after vibration is fixed.
  • No check engine and looks like faults weren't cleared recently. Passes emissions according to TorquePro.
  • No subframe cracks. Woohoo!!!
  • According to seller: new tires and battery.
  • Diff doesn't leak.







So yeah. First thing tomorrow checking spark plugs and center support bearing along with guibo.

P.S. name WifeBeater is because my wife will be using this car as a daily beater, not because of the other thing.
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Old 02-21-2017, 06:49 PM   #2
PancakeBimmer
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: PNW
Posts: 263
My Ride: BMW 325i
Update for 2/21/2017

Additional issues found today
  • SAP Mounts are bad.
  • Shock tower mounts are bad. New shock tower mounts are in order
  • Shock towers are deformed a bit. A little hammering will do the trick.
  • Larger SAP hose is cracking
  • Some sideskirt clips are broken
  • Front and rear diff bushings have visible cracks. Powerflex to the rescue
  • Rear trailing arm bushings seem to have too much play. Powerflex again
  • Front control arm bushings are on their way out and one is missing single bolt Powerflex?
  • Passenger front fender liner missing. Ehhh, junk yard probably has one.
  • Headlight weather strips.
  • MAF connector clip is missing.
  • Glovebox needs to be fixed.
  • Sunroof might be leaking or just needs cleaning.
  • Oil leaking inside spark plug hole. Going to replace valve cover gasket completely with all the rubber pieces.

Few good things came out of today. Spark plug for cylinder #5 was loose and that was making the noise. Woohooo! Guibo turns out to be torn pretty badly, so that was the vibration. Ignition coils were replaced recently with bremi (dated 2014). Either way, should be set for at least two with them. Found receipt for tires and they have only 3000 miles on them at most.

Personally I think this is going great so far. I will end up spending maybe close to 2k on parts for this car, but if it does end up costing me 4k total it is still a bargain. I will have everything serviced ad up to date.

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Old 02-21-2017, 10:13 PM   #3
Ojai330i
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Location: Ojai
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My Ride: 330i Slick Top & X5
Nice pick up, I have no doubts you will get it all sorted out.

The funny thing is that either you buy one and everything falls apart and need to be fixed or you buy one where everything fell apart and needs to be fixed.
With the E46 there is no way of escaping it!
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Old 02-22-2017, 12:21 AM   #4
modjo
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My Ride: 330XI
Nice Mtech1 complete set on face lift model.
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Old 02-22-2017, 02:34 PM   #5
PancakeBimmer
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Location: PNW
Posts: 263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ojai330i View Post
Nice pick up, I have no doubts you will get it all sorted out.

The funny thing is that either you buy one and everything falls apart and need to be fixed or you buy one where everything fell apart and needs to be fixed.
With the E46 there is no way of escaping it!
Exactly! After replacing one thing after another on my first E46 over five years, i figured this time it will be easier to just replace everything at once.

Quote:
Originally Posted by modjo View Post
Nice Mtech1 complete set on face lift model.
Ohh yeah. I guess it does have mtech1 set. No idea how it went un-noticed.


Half day update on the car. Exhaust didn't want to get out of the car without giving problems. Bolts are rusted and luckily one snapped with the nut. Removing those bolts is going to suck, again...

Closer look at driveshaft revealed that center support bearing is shot as well. I guessed it would be, not that is confirmed. Diff mounts are bad so I started dropping that as well, but then realized it might be easier to drop the whole subframe and replace everything outside of the car. Might as well do subframe reinforcement I guess Anyone wanna sponsor my reinforcement kit lol

Ordered first batch of parts to get driveline going, and adding suspension order tonight.
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Old 02-24-2017, 12:25 PM   #6
PancakeBimmer
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My Ride: BMW 325i
What a pain in the ass dropping the subframe was, mainly because right wheel was welded shut (with rust) to the rotor. Had to do the job with one wheel still on, but then it came right off when everything was already on the ground

Very glad that I dropped the subframe. Subframe bushings already had small cracks and upper&lower control arm bushings/balljoints has some play. So everything goes out and new parts go in.

Driveshaft CV joint, which I was surprised to find on automatic but not on manual, is probably bad so I will look more into it. So far this will be the single most expensive part.








Had to come up with list of parts and some pretty charts to keep track of that. Feel free to peek in. So far $1400 planned to spend, $1000 already spent, and almost $900 still available in the budget.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:08 PM   #7
PancakeBimmer
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My Ride: BMW 325i
As per usual, if everything goes smooth then something bad is bound to happen.

Spent Saturday removing bushings from subframe and started on engine. Valve cover gasket, especially the inside, was literally plastic that was very brittle. No wonder why there was oil in spark plug hole.
Also I had vanos seals that were for my car, but I decided to use them for this car while at it. So vanos came out for seal replacement.

Today I replaced seals and wanted to at least install the vanos back. This is where my luck went down, probably my own fault tho. I forgot to order new gasket for vanos and had to reuse old one. See I thought that if I apply a thin coat of RTV and put vanos back on without letting RTV settle then extra will come out and seal will be better. Well, that might have been the reason why nuts kept spinning on the studs until one snapped. This probably wouldn't happen if it was just metal gasket and no RTV. My own fault I guess. But then intake torx bolt kept spinning too while exhaust just torqued down to 7ft/lb with couple turns. Removed the bolt and thread doesn't look deformed. Idk, will try to figure out tomorrow. Suggestions are welcome.

More pictures once parts start coming this week.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:19 PM   #8
PancakeBimmer
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My Ride: BMW 325i
DISA



By the looks of things the flap was cut and sealed.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:20 PM   #9
Ojai330i
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My Ride: 330i Slick Top & X5
Dis-Aster! What the Fuuuuuuu?
You are getting stuff done though.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:50 PM   #10
UncleShrek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pancakebimmer View Post
disa



by the looks of things the flap was cut and sealed.
issa dissa...
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Old 03-04-2017, 06:53 PM   #11
PancakeBimmer
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: PNW
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My Ride: BMW 325i
Past couple days have been pretty productive.

All rear suspension bushings were replaced with new Powerflex or Lemforder, the only exception is lower control arm outer bushing. That will be replaced later on with balljoint or a different new Lemforder bushing (read all about it here). Having e36/e46 bushing removal/install tool helped a lot; it even worked for inner bushings along with few sockets.

Cleaned up everything a bit and started put everything back together. First went in the subframe, then upper and lover control arms, and finally trailing arms. Taking everything out together was easy, but putting it all back in parts is better when doing it all alone or without lift. I bolted everything hand tight because it seems that control arms need to be preloaded before torquing them down. More about it here (click). No idea if inner bolts should be torqued down with control arms hanging down or somewhere it the middle maybe.




Finally the diff work. It wasn't leaking nor making much noise, but less than a quart of oil came out which concerned me. I tackled down output seals and input seal is next on the todo list. Here are some photos and notes/remarks.

I started by carefully prying with flat head screw driver and got this. The trick is to do it all around.


Again, trying to carefully pry the output flange out from this location and pulling it on the outside.


With patience it slid out in one go.


The inside part of the seal that mates with flange was sitting flush with diff housing, so new seal was seated in same position.



New seals came with new clips. It seems that there is a trick to installing the flange back in. The grove inside allows the clip to be inserted into there and threaded in until it pops. Maybe it was meant for removing the flange. I'll never know. At that point the flange needs to be pushed in further for clip to get into final groove. I simply stepped on a flange and it went all the way in.



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Old 03-18-2017, 12:56 PM   #12
PancakeBimmer
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Location: PNW
Posts: 263
My Ride: BMW 325i
Doing weekly or bi-weekly updates now because it takes a while to get the parts.

Rear end was put back together and driveshaft is ready to mate with transmission as soon as that small inner driveshaft bearing comes in. The only things left to take care of in the rear are shocks and shock mounts, brake pads and rotors, and exhaust.

The work now shifted to front of the car. Although I had no plans removing transmission it had to came out anyway because I couldn't stand having rear main seal leaking. Plus it was a smart move since engine and transmission were the only things left in engine bay suspended on engine hoist.

Front subframe, control arms, and front suspension overall had to come out. Overhauling pretty much everything except shocks/struts with springs, those will be replaced later. New Mayle HD control arms and complete tie rods. Steering rack is getting new hoses and reservoir is being replaced too. Front brake pads and rotors will be replaced later on with new shocks/struts and springs. Powerflex control arm bushings are going to be pressed in soon.

Spend two hours removing exhaust headers because of rusted bolts, but only after removing them I realized that I could have lowered the engine and had it done it 15 minutes
New exhaust gasket with shield and nuts are a must. Too bad one of the cats seems to be going to craps with pieces falling out of it
Regardless, going to drop exhaust manifolds at exhaust shop to have studs pressed out, and hoping to get Euro2 tune later on to avoid emissions for meanwhile

On the intake side of the engine, things are pretty much the usual E46. Plastic O-Rings, oil and dirt, coolant lines leaking, and more oil and dirt.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
There is probably more stuff I missed, but it is all listed in parts spreadsheet. Originally planned to spend $4000 including the parts and car, but now it looks like $5000. Still, no regrets because if everything works then my wife will be left with a very decent E46
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