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This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 01-31-2017, 12:04 PM   #661
Bradders24
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No checked and both grounds were good
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Old 01-31-2017, 12:07 PM   #662
Jcieslik
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Originally Posted by Bradders24 View Post
No checked and both grounds were good
You are flooding the engine for some reason. Maybe leaky injector or a wiring/timing issue.
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Old 02-17-2017, 09:20 AM   #663
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My Engine Fuse #3 Kalim was blowing because of a frayed o2 sensor wire, it was shorting against the engine block. You may want to check those if you're having a problem
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:41 PM   #664
E36 Ron
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Hey all, I have been a lurker here for several years and I appreciate all of the information I have gained from this site! After a ton of searching and troubleshooting, I have reached the end of my rope. My car is a 1999 E46 323i with manual transmission. While I was hoarding parts to rebuild my cooling system my battery drained completely. I have swapped in a new battery, but now I am experiencing a no crank condition. I have tried my spare key, as well as my valet key, none of them will crank the car. The keys WILL lock and unlock the doors. I noticed that with the key in the ignition and the drivers door open, there is no charm, or beep. I am mechanically sound, but the electronic/computer side of the house, I find myself extremely challenged. I have ordered a cheaper BMW scanner, as well as the AK90 setup. They will not be here for a week, or so, but it looks like this is going to be part of my BMW bag of tricks, so I ordered them. As a side note, I also tried to jump start the car in addition to attempting to push-start it to no avail. Any and all suggestions would be very much appreciated. I have read so many posts where folks have experienced the same situation, but they almost always end with no solution. If and when I get to the bottom of this problem, I will come back here and let you all know what I did to remedy this situation.

Thanks for your time reading this post and thanks to the OP for doing such a great job of helping us all out!

Ron

Last edited by E36 Ron; 02-17-2017 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 03-01-2017, 06:48 AM   #665
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Originally Posted by kerriwarwick View Post
Hi Guys ! if the key has gone bad will that render the car not to start ? I have put in a new battery ! lights work windows etc but she wont fire up !!! thanks Kerri ..and I will keep reading the FAQ
Did you find the problem

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Old 03-19-2017, 02:17 PM   #666
T Nenguda
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hi guys i have 320d is giving me problem with ews. i need any help on how to bypass my ews 320d 2002
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:03 AM   #667
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Originally Posted by M Shandy View Post
After my shift I tried a quick jump and again nothing so a few of my co workers helped me push it and after about six ytties nothing? ? So this morning I went and checked over fuses found nothing wrong I took my battery and I am charging it now just to be safe is there anyone who has any other suggestions I am going to try to see if shorting the clutch safety switch helps any but I would guess that it would have started when I tried to bump start it soooooo
Hey I read your no start post what did you figure out I have a no start no crank 328i four months not fixed yet
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clrios View Post
I have a2000 323ci BMW that will not start. It had been sitting up for two years and I tried using my regular key and it would not crank then I used the master key and it started Right up. I have been driving it for abt three weeks and the other day I got in it to crank for work and it would not start. No clicking everything lights up, all doors lock and unlock. Going to see if I can test my key. Bought a battery for it, that's not it. Any suggestions please.

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Old 03-24-2017, 07:13 AM   #668
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Originally Posted by Princefredo View Post
No start issues. Car worked fine then all of the sudden no start just click. I can also feel (hand on starter) the starter try to do something as the key is turned but doesn't spin...So I got to the starter and checked the voltage. I had constant 12.3 at the constant battery supply(B). I would get 10.7 at the wire from the EWS as the key was turned(c). It had nothing when the key isn't in start. The supply would drop to 11.7 as the key was turned also(B). I jumped the wire to the starter motor itself and it actually spun the engine(D). I also jumped the EWS (C) wire and I got nothing. So do you think it's the starter or something else? I was under the impression that if I jumped the wire from the EWS (C) that it would turn the starter but it didn't. Thank you.
Did you resolve your no start problem I have a 328i any advice I would be greatful

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Old 03-24-2017, 07:16 AM   #669
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Originally Posted by Chocolate Lab View Post
Got my key in from the dealership. Took it home to see if it would start my car, but it doesn't.

Weird thing is, it won't even lock or unlock the doors, even after the program cycle. My old key fob (from a different car, ignition doesn't work) still does work, though. I guess there's a chance I got a bad key from the factory, but that doesn't seem very likely. Any ideas?

Edit, talked it over with the BMW tech at my dealership and he thinks if the immobilizer has shut the car down of is defective, it's also keeping a new key from being programmed. Makes sense, I guess...
How did you make out with no start and new key

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Old 03-24-2017, 07:21 AM   #670
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Originally Posted by E46CompactTI View Post
You can resync in INPA is this available to you?
What is (Inpa) you talking about

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Old 03-24-2017, 07:25 AM   #671
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Originally Posted by System77 View Post
On a previous 2001 e46, for weeks I had an issue with no start, no crank, until I activated/de-activated the key fob a few times, which also didn't always work, but manually unlocking and shutting the trunk a few times would inevitably allow me to start the car.

I actually once got trapped in the car in a hot parking lot - I had tried the key fob trick and the doors locked then everything went dead and I could not unlock them even by pulling the handles. I was about to pass out from the heat when a friend came to my rescue - because the electronics had died before the window could tighten up, I was able to squeeze my key through to him and get rescued with a manual unlock!

I will point out that all of this started after I used my valet key for a day.

Eventually I fixed with with PA Soft - I cleared all the errors in EWS and problem was solved permanently.
What are you using to to read and clear the codes (PA Soft) what is that

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Old 03-28-2017, 07:49 PM   #672
ThreeM30s
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Very important for people to remember several things about any car that has been left for ages:

- Old fuel may prevent any kind of ignition.
- Car batteries that are near death should NOT be used for diagnostics. Ensure a good voltage to the system at all times, or you may trigger EWS/DWA/ABS and other fault conditions that require you having to deal with a whole other raft of problems requiring connection to dealer diagnostics, acknowledge error conditions, limp mode, or otherwise using risk using dodgy software to do critical operations like program keys, reset modules, etc.
- Some bad batteries may appear good (>12.5V after charging) but die off as soon as they are put under load. If one of the cells is low on water or high on resistance this can confuse us. Avoid using a bad battery on a BMW, even a reliable one like the e46.
- If you are having unexplained battery problems, check your engine ground wire, also your regulator and alternator as these are also critical items that will leave you stuck somewhere bad at the worst possible time.
- All e46 use security keys with transponder chips and rechargeable batteries which may have died/go flat. Transponder may not work, EWS may trigger, key be forgotten, or be triggered from a previous attempt causing a No Start Condition. Maybe the toothbrush charger fix can help, or the dealer. The charging requires the key to be left in the ignition for a reasonable amount of time (probably with the ignition on) during each month.
- You should remove the plugs and inspect. If like most you are unable to ascertain if fuel pressure is suitable (not just fuel leaks form the valve if I press it, but spurts out or better, you make the effort to measure 3 Bar of pressure). If they are dry, you have a fuel problem. Check the FP relay, FP for voltage and sound (buzzing noise for the first 2 seconds of turning the key to ignition), and fuel filter (it may or may not have the regulator incorporated in it), if separate you must check that too.

If the plugs are wet with fuel, clean and dry them. Inject 50ml of oil into the cylinders using a large syringe with a small pipe on the end, or an finger-operated oil can. Squirt the oil at the walls just above the surface of each cylinder, all round its circumference. This will flood the sealing ring so that compression can be achieved. Without this, the fuel you have tested is making its way into the cylinder via the injectors, (saturating the spark plugs), and will simply continue to flood in at just the right rate to mix with the oil around the cylinder rings and drain away before anywhere near enough compression can be attained to enable any sort of ignition.

On earlier non-electronic throttle BMWs, around one minute continuous cranking (aka 'the italian method') with accelerator held wide open would eventually result in the engine firing. It happened to me once on an e34, moved it out of the driveway and after that could not start it no matter what I tried for months. It would fire after about 20s of cranking and belatedly idle at perhaps 300-400rpm for a up to a minute or so, it simply couldn't sustain anything more. It would also 'sort of fire' after 20s cranking but then go back to normal cranking. Ended up putting oil down the plugs and it started right up but couldn't run well and idled badly, then died again. That was a mixture of fuel pump and cylinder wash-down.

However the electronic throttle on M52 and M54 make the Italian startup hard/impossible to do.

Then remove the FP relay and crank for 3 seconds to get the oil mixed round. (It will crank real fast with the plugs are out).

Replace the plugs, tighten enough to seat the crush washer firmly but not too tight, it's an aluminium thread so you can go too hard (25 Nm (18 ft-lbs, for a plug with a 14mm thread). Refit the coil packs, verifying the 2 earth straps are correctly fitted for both banks of 3 coils.

Insert the FP relay again and start. Yay!

If your FP relay is old, change it if
- the pump has been changed
- >10 years old
- you have not found the root cause of an erratic fuel-related problem

Last edited by ThreeM30s; 04-02-2017 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 03-29-2017, 04:33 AM   #673
ThreeM30s
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My Fuel Pump failure story.

2003 325i sedan: Stock never molested car w/ 200,000 miles. Dealer services all its life, but nothing major replaced other than the airbag and wear items. Suspension I refreshed a few months ago, shocks and mounts were all tired but still functional and smooth, it just sat overall a little low given the M-sport suspension package it has drops it only 15mm from stock. Luckily here in Oz, there is no salt so the car bodies and even moving parts can last longer underneath.

Anyway, I was dropping off the dry cleaning a few days ago. Left the car for 3 minutes, jumped back in and it would only crank, no start. Thankfully the battery was new when we bought the car and very lively, so I try a few times. Hot day, car in the sun, engine still hot, and each time it would get a little ignition and then die after a second or two.

Half a tank of gas. Noticed the Tacho read 200rpm or so when cranking, so was able to verify crank sensor was good. Also, the temp gauge read correctly and dash lights lit as they normally do when attempting to start.

But the car was parked in a loading zone... (Oh well, at least its not raining... )

Luckily it's only a mile or so from home, so I walk back to search the forums and figure out if it was EWS, key, FPR, FP, or something I might miss. Anyway, found this thread, scanned the good posts (Bloody great thread, guys THANK YOU all). Thanks to the super effort several of you have put in capturing everyone's symptoms and causes, I was able to cancel out all most improbable and quite a few of the nastier causes. So then I grabbed some tools to go back and verify if it was the pump or the relay or fuel wash or some massive Vacuum leak I couldn't find.

Over the last few days it ran very low on fuel and I only filled it halfway last night because of the price of fuel. So it really wouldn't be strange if the Fuel Pump was 'cactus' as we say here in Oz.

Unplugged the MAF to check it wasn't a vacuum leak. Try again, nothing. THis time with the engine cool, it didn't even fire at all. Checked the Shraeder valve, it spat a little but it had no pressure behind it. Pulled the rear seat, listened for momentary spin of the pump when turning accessories on. Nothing. Pulled back the insulation (never been pulled before) and pulled the big grommet out so I could see the connector and bang the pump a little with a long bar and a rubber hammer. Nothing. Tested for voltage at the pump. 12.2V for 2 seconds every time I turn the key, as it should.

OK, so bad pump!

Walk home, order a new 'OEM' chinese pump for like $50US delivered, and wait a day. Once the pump arrived, I grabbed the dog, and walked back, a spare FP relay (JIC), the new pump and a few more tools.

Tried again dead cold. Nothing.

Removed the back seat, removed the pump cover panel. Figured all the banging I was doing undoing the seal ring on the tank might have awakened the pump. Tried the key again- as I'd far rather swap the pump in my driveway than out on the high street.

Zip.

Oh well, at least it's still not raining!

OK, so take the old FP out, fit the new Chinese one. A drop or two of silicone on the seal and the fuel line clamp made everything easier. New one popped in alright, just had to seat the seal in the tank, rather than the pump, as others have noted here in this thread. Button it up, test... starts right up and I could clean up and head home.

All thanks to this thread. Put a new relay in too when I got home. Marked the old one '300k old, known working'. Now why the hell didn't I change that pump when we got the car last year?

For $50 it's a no brainer, no Fuel Pump lasts forever...

PS. Just a side note, if you post your troubles on this thread, make the effort to come back and detail what the cause ended up being, Even little observations can really help other people.

Last edited by ThreeM30s; 04-02-2017 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:36 AM   #674
SHALANG
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What is an OEM Chinese pump?
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Old 03-30-2017, 09:47 PM   #675
ThreeM30s
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Originally Posted by SHALANG View Post
What is an OEM Chinese pump?
It's a counterfeit pump, a copy of the original, or a copy of a copy of a copy or an original (if you get my drift), that is made in China ;-).

OE is Original Equipment (eg BMW part or the exact same part BMW buy), OEM is Original Equipment made to be like the Manufactured part. OEM is seldom better than OE, but like the original replacement parts BMW supply, some OEM parts are updated with newer tech or materials. Usually this happens if the newer tooling or materials save money.

However OEM is NOT made to meet the tolerances or pass the QA checks a Manufacturer might apply in their supplier chain. Some OEM parts are 'upgraded' to be perform better, be stronger, however the they are not engineered (or at least not tested) to be better, and may have unexpected side-effects. Some will have a good reputation in the field, or prove to be better once feedback from the field makes that clear.

So if you have a car made by a manufacturer that applies rigorous checks and quality from its suppliers, an OE part can be worth the difference. Especially if repeat failure can cause critical impacts- or leave you stranded a long way from home in the rain. Eg PCV and radiator hoses, expansion tanks, (anything with special joints or connections) when bought from BMW will typically outlast the aftermarket parts. However if you have something like a Hyundai, Kia, Foton, Great Wall, even some types of GM and Mitsubishi, you might fine OEM is as good as the OE part ;-)

An example of upgraded parts is the OE valve gasket seals in M54 engines: (

- M52/M54 Profile (valve cover) gasket set 1997- 11 12 9 070 990 (2x OEM price)
- 15 cover bolt seals 11 12 1 437 395, old part 11 12 1 726 537 (same price)
- Cover ring (cap) 11 12 7 526 447, 2003- 11 12 1 703 410 (4x the price)
- 12 14 1 748 398 17x3 o-ring 12 14 0 148 893 (2x the price)

Some say these were initially made from butyl rubber, which is all the OEM market produces to date. However, butyl rubber degrades when used with synthetic engine oils, causing early failure, and the rumour is that BMW forced a change to Viton across its supply chain for M52 and m54 engines, but I think this only really happened in M52s used in e34 and e36. From what I've seen, e46 OEM were all synthetic. However the OEM suppliers either didn't cotton on or couldn't be bothered doing this. BMW updated the part number for the cover bolt seals and some others, but not for the e39/e46 valve cover/profile gaskets. Other seals made out of rubber look to have changed similarly too. I've certainly seen OE seals on M50 in e34/e36 that have very degraded seals. In e46 I see failures, but never an OE seal that has turned to gum like the OEM ones do.

Last edited by ThreeM30s; 04-02-2017 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 04-01-2017, 07:17 AM   #676
gyro73
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I had a similar experience except I managed to drive my car to the garage. Thanks for this very helpful thread.

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Old 04-08-2017, 03:26 AM   #677
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Chances are if fude 30 is blown , you will have no power to the motor. Red battery lifht on and most assume alternator is gone, it is most likely the oil level sensor in the sump that is faulty and cause a short. Runs the same power line to the alternator so easily mistaken
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Old 04-08-2017, 11:26 AM   #678
Chocolate Lab
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Originally Posted by craigk401 View Post
How did you make out with no start and new key

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Well that one was my immobilizer. Let dealer replace it and things were fine.

But then not a couple of weeks later I got a crank-no start condition. Thing turns over like crazy but won't start. Doesn't seem to be fuses. I hear fuel pump priming. I'm getting RPMs when cranking so I guess it's not crank sensor.

I don't know what it could be. Guess I'm going to have to tow it to the dealer and let him diagnose it.

Worst part is it's been sitting forever -- I recently bought a house and have been working on it almost every day. Working on a house and a car at the same time is too much for me.
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Old 04-08-2017, 02:54 PM   #679
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Hmmm, interesting, i wasnt even getting crank. Stupid question, yoir battery is semding enough amp, volta to the starter to kick it over. Try re charging your batter over night, re installing and charging.

As simple as this sounds, i Still wouldmt rule out your oil level sensor. Disconnect it from the simp and tey to turn over. If on the way out, can still cause this issue as it disrupts power supply as silly as that sounds.
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:06 PM   #680
tubbs76
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Hmmm, interesting, i wasnt even getting crank. Stupid question, yoir battery is semding enough amp, volta to the starter to kick it over. Try re charging your batter over night, re installing and charging.

As simple as this sounds, i Still wouldmt rule out your oil level sensor. Disconnect it from the simp and tey to turn over. If on the way out, can still cause this issue as it disrupts power supply as silly as that sounds.
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