New E46 Coolant Bleed Process - E46Fanatics E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > General E46 Forum

General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 03-19-2017, 01:38 PM   #1
Dave1027
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 1,857
My Ride: '06 IR zhp coupe
New E46 Coolant Bleed Process

I recently replaced my leaking expansion tank and had seen a short youtube clip of the bleed process being done with the engine running. The clip also showed the use of a piece of clear tubing ran from the bleed hole back to the filler neck. I thought it looked like it could be better than the common method. I decided to make this video of the process. It was a resounding success.

Dave1027 is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 03-19-2017, 04:26 PM   #2
Infamousredrum
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kent wa
Posts: 48
My Ride: Murdered out 330
Did you run the hose all the way into the bottom of the fillneck until its submerged? And at the end after no air bubbles should there be a steady stream of coolant running thru bleeder hose? Or was nothing coming through couldnt tell
Infamousredrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2017, 04:37 PM   #3
Dave1027
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 1,857
My Ride: '06 IR zhp coupe
The hose end was only sticking into the neck, not submerged. It does not need to be submerged. The flow is from the bleed hole.

At the end it was a steady stream of coolant and no air in it.

One thing to note that I did not put into the video was towards the end I did rev up the motor a little to help dislodge the air bubble in the heater core. I reved it to 2k or so a few times
Dave1027 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2017, 06:25 PM   #4
Infamousredrum
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kent wa
Posts: 48
My Ride: Murdered out 330
Been having over heating problems an fifteen mins into idling there is still a constant flow of bubbles coming up the tube yet a block vapor test doesnt turn yellow or green indicating exhaust gases an no milky oil an compression test is good... Only torqued head bolts an extra qtr turn tho not half turn cuz i know my block is soft... Do you think the bubbles are likely a leaky heater core or likely exhaust gases because it idles fine overheats only when driven im at my wits end here an dunno what i should do at this point entire cooling system has been replaced... An engine rebuilt i had a cracked cylinder head... Pressure test shows good on cooling system up to 20psi holds fine.... Yet heater was off during this so water valve was prob closed an dunno if pressure test would reveal leaky heater core via return hose... Also heater blows warm yet only blows hot when revving the engine
Infamousredrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2017, 11:07 AM   #5
Dave1027
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 1,857
My Ride: '06 IR zhp coupe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Infamousredrum View Post
Do you think the bubbles are likely a leaky heater core or likely exhaust gases because it idles fine overheats only when driven
I'd run it till the aux fan comes on, reving the engine a few times to dislodge any trapped air. If the air bubbles never quit I think that indicates a head issue.
Dave1027 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2017, 11:31 AM   #6
BMW-North
// Quandt AG (Retired) //
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: GTA or Myrtle Beach
Posts: 2,751
My Ride: AMv8,e46x3,e90,e83
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave1027 View Post
The hose end was only sticking into the neck, not submerged. It does not need to be submerged. The flow is from the bleed hole.

At the end it was a steady stream of coolant and no air in it.

One thing to note that I did not put into the video was towards the end I did rev up the motor a little to help dislodge the air bubble in the heater core. I reved it to 2k or so a few times

^Not sure what the tube off the bleed screw was all about except saves any spillage but revving is certainly the most important aspect of bleeding this car IMHO. The heater core, routing tubing and hosing is a secondary branch off the main coolant circulation route. It is so far away from the waterpump that a car sitting level, at idle might NOT see sufficient flow to force coolant through the very narrow spiral heater core channels and dislodge the air. especially since it needs to flow down then up again to the return tube.

If you rev the RPMS between 2K-2500 the waterpump is spinning fast enough to create sufficient pressure to force the coolant through the heater core dislodging the air. I typically raise the front end to speed up the process of the dislodged air getting to the only two places it can escape (Bleed screw and ET cap - both at the front.)
BMW-North is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2017, 12:06 PM   #7
Mango
e46mango.com
 
Mango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Southern California
Posts: 26,628
My Ride: Lexus
If the right way and the wrong way both result in "resounding success," then why not just do it the right way.

I don't see a need for an alternative way, particularly when it can result in scalding.

The right way is official and is the golden standard.
__________________
Mango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2017, 03:20 PM   #8
Fox Fader
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 348
My Ride: '05 325i
My question is, what diameter is the hose so I can get some?
__________________
'05 325i handshaker CW Package 130k
M Shift Knob - 545i Short Throw w/ Blk Suede Boot - Tint: 20%r, 35%f - PowerStops
HomeLink® - Clear Fender Signals - LED Interior Lights - Tein S.Tech - Koni Str.t - Clear Corners - Yellow Fogs


10 Ford GT 401a 5sp 17k miles
17 High-Ball Matte Nuclear Sunset Orange
11 KLR 650 (sold) :(
07 Tuono Factory
03 F150 STX Lightning replica
11 Kia Sorento SX (wife's)

Slammin Tunes
Fox Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2017, 07:49 AM   #9
markusmarkus
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 6,194
My Ride: 2001 330Ci
I developed an alternative way to bleed the cooling system. I bought a brass adapter that has the 10x1 thread of the bleed screw. I attached a length of clear plastic hose to the adapter and screwed the adapter into the bleed screw hole. Filled the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and BMW coolant. Massaged the radiator hoses. Started the car and let it bleed via the plastic hose. Added coolant as needed. This prevents coolant from bleeding all over the radiator and tank.
markusmarkus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2017, 08:43 AM   #10
Fox Fader
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 348
My Ride: '05 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
I developed an alternative way to bleed the cooling system. I bought a brass adapter that has the 10x1 thread of the bleed screw. I attached a length of clear plastic hose to the adapter and screwed the adapter into the bleed screw hole. Filled the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and BMW coolant. Massaged the radiator hoses. Started the car and let it bleed via the plastic hose. Added coolant as needed. This prevents coolant from bleeding all over the radiator and tank.
I like this. Got a full coolant system jub coming up this week. I'm on it. Thanks
__________________
'05 325i handshaker CW Package 130k
M Shift Knob - 545i Short Throw w/ Blk Suede Boot - Tint: 20%r, 35%f - PowerStops
HomeLink® - Clear Fender Signals - LED Interior Lights - Tein S.Tech - Koni Str.t - Clear Corners - Yellow Fogs


10 Ford GT 401a 5sp 17k miles
17 High-Ball Matte Nuclear Sunset Orange
11 KLR 650 (sold) :(
07 Tuono Factory
03 F150 STX Lightning replica
11 Kia Sorento SX (wife's)

Slammin Tunes
Fox Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2017, 04:09 PM   #11
Dave1027
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: California
Posts: 1,857
My Ride: '06 IR zhp coupe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox Fader View Post
My question is, what diameter is the hose so I can get some?
It's about 10 inches of 3/8 inch (outer diameter) clear tubing. Works perfect and yes I did have to rev the engine.

Mango, there's no scalding with my method. That's the beauty of it. There's no coolant spillage and you can more easily see the air bubble progress. You essentially get the engine up to temp then watch the tube for the bubbles to quit while intermittently reving and topping off the coolant. I found it best to keep the level on the low side of the level.

Also to add, you don't need a brass adaptor. The clear tubing forms it's own seal in the bleed hole

Last edited by Dave1027; 05-09-2017 at 04:11 PM.
Dave1027 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2017, 08:31 PM   #12
Fox Fader
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 348
My Ride: '05 325i
Thanks
__________________
'05 325i handshaker CW Package 130k
M Shift Knob - 545i Short Throw w/ Blk Suede Boot - Tint: 20%r, 35%f - PowerStops
HomeLink® - Clear Fender Signals - LED Interior Lights - Tein S.Tech - Koni Str.t - Clear Corners - Yellow Fogs


10 Ford GT 401a 5sp 17k miles
17 High-Ball Matte Nuclear Sunset Orange
11 KLR 650 (sold) :(
07 Tuono Factory
03 F150 STX Lightning replica
11 Kia Sorento SX (wife's)

Slammin Tunes
Fox Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2017, 07:01 AM   #13
markusmarkus
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 6,194
My Ride: 2001 330Ci
Here's the fitting that goes in the bleed screw hole: Legris 0101 06 60 Brass Compression fitting. I got it from amazon.
markusmarkus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2017, 07:24 AM   #14
BaliDawg
Keepin' it real stock
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 5,706
My Ride: E24 E32 E46 E39 E84
Quote:
Originally Posted by markusmarkus View Post
Here's the fitting that goes in the bleed screw hole: Legris 0101 06 60 Brass Compression fitting. I got it from amazon.
An M10x1 metric male hose barb would be ideal. They come in different hose sizes. I'd pick one with a common size to fit clear tubing so you can see the bubbles while bleeding.

This one fits a 9mm (5/16") ID hose and has about the same number of threads as the bleeder screw (8-9).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fitting-M10-...dWiY1n&vxp=mtr

Maybe put an o-ring on it like the bleeder screw has to seal?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7269.JPG
Views:	16
Size:	13.2 KB
ID:	654781  
__________________
///Mmmmmm...

Last edited by BaliDawg; 05-11-2017 at 08:00 AM.
BaliDawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-10-2017, 08:32 AM   #15
Fox Fader
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 348
My Ride: '05 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
Nice! I will order one for the next bleed.
https://www.amazon.com/Legris-Compre...ews/B009PSSQM2

What size ID hose did you connect to that fitting?
Edit: the description says: "Size: 6 mm Tube OD x M10x1 Male Metric Thread"
Confused, M8 or M10. **After a quick search, it's M10x1.0** I'd thought you would've went more this route.

__________________
'05 325i handshaker CW Package 130k
M Shift Knob - 545i Short Throw w/ Blk Suede Boot - Tint: 20%r, 35%f - PowerStops
HomeLink® - Clear Fender Signals - LED Interior Lights - Tein S.Tech - Koni Str.t - Clear Corners - Yellow Fogs


10 Ford GT 401a 5sp 17k miles
17 High-Ball Matte Nuclear Sunset Orange
11 KLR 650 (sold) :(
07 Tuono Factory
03 F150 STX Lightning replica
11 Kia Sorento SX (wife's)

Slammin Tunes

Last edited by Fox Fader; 05-10-2017 at 11:11 AM. Reason: searched size
Fox Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 07:09 AM   #16
BaliDawg
Keepin' it real stock
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 5,706
My Ride: E24 E32 E46 E39 E84
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox Fader View Post
Confused, M8 or M10. **After a quick search, it's M10x1.0** I'd thought you would've went more this route.

Although your ambark fitting has a nice hose nipple, NPT is the wrong thread type and won't fit correctly.
__________________
///Mmmmmm...
BaliDawg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 07:59 AM   #17
jfoj
OEM ///Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 23,231
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave1027 View Post
I found it best to keep the level on the low side of the level.
This is the KEY and IMPORTANT piece to understand!!

BMW recommends that the setting the proper coolant level at an engine temperature of 68F. So if you are setting the coolant level at engine operating temperature the coolant will have expanded quite a bit.

I usually recommend people fill on the low side, but this is because the coolant light often comes on in the Winter at close to freezing temperatures, them people will top off the coolant. But at close to freezing temps the coolant will have contracted and you do not want to fill to the high side when it is this cold.

In the case of a warm engine fill level, I would recommend filling on the high side of the float, but be careful not to over fill. Make sure the float is not totally pushed against the stop. I wish someone would post the fluid level from the tip of the expansion tank when the coolant is on the "low" and "high" side level setting. This takes the problem of people overfilling and having the float topped out and then adding another inch of coolant. My E46 is not close at hand, otherwise I would gather this data.

Then I highly recommend rechecking the level once the engine has cooled down and double check the level. Again, ideal check temperature is 68F however, mentally understand and adjust for the ambient temperature. I tend to target a mid level setting of the coolant level.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
jfoj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 07:21 PM   #18
Fox Fader
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 348
My Ride: '05 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave1027 View Post
It's about 10 inches of 3/8 inch (outer diameter) clear tubing. Works perfect and yes I did have to rev the engine.

Mango, there's no scalding with my method. That's the beauty of it. There's no coolant spillage and you can more easily see the air bubble progress. You essentially get the engine up to temp then watch the tube for the bubbles to quit while intermittently reving and topping off the coolant. I found it best to keep the level on the low side of the level.

Also to add, you don't need a brass adaptor. The clear tubing forms it's own seal in the bleed hole
Thanks for the info, worked out really well today. Did thermostat, pump and hoses. I left the hose long cause I also used it on the drain nipple too. Did a full and complete flush (drain the block, folks, pulling the water pump doesn't get it all out. There's a lot in the block) so it took a while... Had to step out and get a couple orings too. Did a little clip. Don't know why BMW didn't make this standard procedure.
Thanks, Dave





BMW didn't have an oring in stock so I used one that was big enough to seal, but I needed to add a smaller one keep it tight and secure. Tight fit going in, holding up very well.
__________________
'05 325i handshaker CW Package 130k
M Shift Knob - 545i Short Throw w/ Blk Suede Boot - Tint: 20%r, 35%f - PowerStops
HomeLink® - Clear Fender Signals - LED Interior Lights - Tein S.Tech - Koni Str.t - Clear Corners - Yellow Fogs


10 Ford GT 401a 5sp 17k miles
17 High-Ball Matte Nuclear Sunset Orange
11 KLR 650 (sold) :(
07 Tuono Factory
03 F150 STX Lightning replica
11 Kia Sorento SX (wife's)

Slammin Tunes
Fox Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 07:25 PM   #19
Fox Fader
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbus, GA
Posts: 348
My Ride: '05 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
Although your ambark fitting has a nice hose nipple, NPT is the wrong thread type and won't fit correctly.
Dude, that was just a typical Google picture.
__________________
'05 325i handshaker CW Package 130k
M Shift Knob - 545i Short Throw w/ Blk Suede Boot - Tint: 20%r, 35%f - PowerStops
HomeLink® - Clear Fender Signals - LED Interior Lights - Tein S.Tech - Koni Str.t - Clear Corners - Yellow Fogs


10 Ford GT 401a 5sp 17k miles
17 High-Ball Matte Nuclear Sunset Orange
11 KLR 650 (sold) :(
07 Tuono Factory
03 F150 STX Lightning replica
11 Kia Sorento SX (wife's)

Slammin Tunes
Fox Fader is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2017, 07:28 PM   #20
jfoj
OEM ///Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Fairfax, VA USA
Posts: 23,231
My Ride: 330CiC, M5, X5, E93
The dealer did not have BMW #13621743299 O-ring in stock??

This is a pretty standard and well used O-ring on this and other models.

BMW does not list a "serviceable/replaceable" O-ring for the lower radiator hose temp switch, but the part number above is the part number for the correct O-ring.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
jfoj is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.