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Ask a professional detailer...

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#1 ·
As a new e46 sponsor specializing in automotive detailing supplies, I thought I would open a thread for people to ask their questions about exterior and interior care of their vehicles. There is so much information out there regarding automotive detailing and we've been in the business for years. I have used a majority of products available on the market and have hand selected the products I stand by for our shop, www.detailedimage.com .

Don't be afraid to post up any questions that you have no matter how simple or complex it is. I'll do my best to give you a timely answer.

Here are a few samples of the work we do at Detailed Image. Once again, please don't hesitate to ask ANY question!



Before:


After:


Great Before and After Pics:
(notice the house faintly thru the swirls and hazing?)




If you'd like to see some more pictures just say the word. We look forward to becoming active members in the e46 community!

Sincerely,

George & Greg
Detailed Image - Owners
www.detailedimage.com
518.429.8435
 
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#1,663 ·
Hmmm... so it sounds like you got some paint overspray? If so there a lot of things you can try. I would try a thorough wash followed by the clay bar first. Next you can try using rubbing alcohol (50/50 mix) with water or Goo Gone. Make sure you are wiping the paint with a clean and paint safe cloth (preferably microfiber). If that doesn't work you may want to try polishing the paint. Let me know if you would like more specific advice on any one of these steps.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,664 ·
Hey Greg, George,

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It goes without saying but here it goes again; we can't thank you enough for your ongoing support and the continuous stream of information you provide on here… You guys never miss a beat. Now, a couple of questions, if I may.
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1. Would you expect a noticeable difference if you applied the KLASSE AIO & HGSG by hand as opposed to applying it with a PC7424?
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2. Can both KLASSE products (AIO & HGSG) be incorporated into a detailing regiment that also utilizes (includes) the Menzerna line of products (like Final Polish II, Finishing Touch Glaze, Full Molecular Jacket, High Gloss Acrylic Shield… etc), Or would I be duplicating steps, wasting time, energy and money.
<o:p></o:p>

Reason I ask, is because I recently bought both, the KLASSE AIO & HGSG. Tried them once (by hand)… Now I am highly impressed with and have seen some beautiful results from the Menzerna line on a few friend’s cars. So I still would like to use the KLASSE that I have but may be supplement my routine with a few Menzerna products to enhance the overall process.

Am I making any sense?
 
#1,665 ·
I can't say thank you enough, it really makes my day when I know I've helped others. We also thank the e46 community for their continued support of Detailed Image. Now to your questions.

1.) I believe a buffer helps spread the products more thoroughly and evenly over hand applications. I think this advantage is only slight but if you have a choice I'd apply it with the PC. I also think the PC has a bigger advantage when you apply the AIO with a white polishing pad. The increased amount of passes from the buffer and a polishing pad will work the AIO in better and help remove more contamination, generally speaking.

The PC makes a much bigger difference when you polishes with cutting particles designed more specifically to remove surface imperfections (swirls, fine scratches, etc.).

2.) Yes and No. Both Klasse and Menzerna are excellent brands and I use them both frequently. In general most of the products can be used together. To help clarify what each product is I'm listing the product and what category each product each one is.

Menzerna: Final Polish II (FPII), Intensive Polish (IP), PF106FF, Super Intensive Polish (SIP)
Polish - Polishes are designed to remove surface imperfections such as swirls, fine scratches and oxidation. When you polish you want to use the least aggressive polish possible and only use more aggressive options if needed. We categorize polishes in to three categories: compounds, cutting, finishing. Compounds are the most aggressive polishes and can buff out the deepest imperfection in the clear coat but will leave a haze that must be buffed out by lighter polishes. Cutting polishes have strong cutting power and will generally leave a light haze on the surface. Finishing polishes will help buff out the haze left from more aggressive polishes, correct very light surface imperfections and leave the surface very smooth and glossy.

Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze
Glaze - Glazes use oils that cling to surface imperfections and help fill them in and reflect the surrounding paint. This gives the illusion of flawless paint and adds a lot of gloss to the surface.

Klasse AIO
All In One (AIO) – All-in-One products are generally referring to products that both chemically clean the surface and leave a coating of protection on the surface. This means that you can help clean the surface while simultaneously protect the paint and enhance the shine. Generally polishing and protecting the polish with two different steps is more effective but these products are good time savers.

Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Paint Sealant - Sealants are created in labs to replicate what waxes by extracting any properties that don’t add to increased shine, protection, ease of use, etc. Sealants typically provide the longest lasting form of protection which lasts 3 – 6 months depending on conditions. Sealants generally apply extremely thin, wipe on and off very easy and add a fantastic shine to any color paint.

Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield
Spray on Protection - These products add a layer of wax or sealant to further protect and shine the surface. Typically you spray it on the clear coat and wipe it off with a clean microfiber towel. These products are perfect to use after a maintenance wash so your vehicle looks like it’s freshly detailed.

I would start off polishing the surface with some of the Menzerna polishes. Next you would want to apply a glaze which coats the surface and helps fill in imperfections. You can lock this glaze and protect the paint by applying a sealant. You would not be able to use the Klasse AIO because that product would strip the glaze off the surface.

The Klasse AIO leaves a coating of protection so technically you can stop there if you want to. I typically like to apply a pure sealant on top of the AIO for increased durability. You could use both the FMJ and HGSG but they are essentailly the same product. The FMJ is much easier to work with but the HGSG is probably one of the most durable sealants out there. You can spray the Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield on top of any of these sealants.

Here are some sample routines you could use if you want to:

#1
Menzerna SIP
Menzerna PO106FF
Klasse AIO
Klasse HGSG and/or FMJ
Menzerna HGAS

#2
Menzerna IP
Menzerna FPII
Menzerna FTG

Klasse HGSG
Menzerna HGAS

Please let me know if you have any questions about these products or how to best use them together. I'd be happy to help you select some products that will best meet your detailing goals. I hope this helped and I look forward to hearing from you.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,668 ·
I can't say thank you enough, it really makes my day when I know I've helped others. We also thank the e46 community for their continued support of Detailed Image.
Humble as always Greg... And all the compliments are well deserved. Perfect proof is what I see below...

I will be contacting you soon to order a few of the items you mentioned as well as a few others....

Thank you so much for your input, and for your time. :bow:

Now to your questions.

1.) I believe a buffer helps spread the products more thoroughly and evenly over hand applications. I think this advantage is only slight but if you have a choice I'd apply it with the PC. I also think the PC has a bigger advantage when you apply the AIO with a white polishing pad. The increased amount of passes from the buffer and a polishing pad will work the AIO in better and help remove more contamination, generally speaking.

The PC makes a much bigger difference when you polishes with cutting particles designed more specifically to remove surface imperfections (swirls, fine scratches, etc.).

2.) Yes and No. Both Klasse and Menzerna are excellent brands and I use them both frequently. In general most of the products can be used together. To help clarify what each product is I'm listing the product and what category each product each one is.

Menzerna: Final Polish II (FPII), Intensive Polish (IP), PF106FF, Super Intensive Polish (SIP)
Polish - Polishes are designed to remove surface imperfections such as swirls, fine scratches and oxidation. When you polish you want to use the least aggressive polish possible and only use more aggressive options if needed. We categorize polishes in to three categories: compounds, cutting, finishing. Compounds are the most aggressive polishes and can buff out the deepest imperfection in the clear coat but will leave a haze that must be buffed out by lighter polishes. Cutting polishes have strong cutting power and will generally leave a light haze on the surface. Finishing polishes will help buff out the haze left from more aggressive polishes, correct very light surface imperfections and leave the surface very smooth and glossy.

Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze
Glaze - Glazes use oils that cling to surface imperfections and help fill them in and reflect the surrounding paint. This gives the illusion of flawless paint and adds a lot of gloss to the surface.

Klasse AIO
All In One (AIO) – All-in-One products are generally referring to products that both chemically clean the surface and leave a coating of protection on the surface. This means that you can help clean the surface while simultaneously protect the paint and enhance the shine. Generally polishing and protecting the polish with two different steps is more effective but these products are good time savers.

Menzerna Full Molecular Jacket, Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze
Paint Sealant - Sealants are created in labs to replicate what waxes by extracting any properties that don’t add to increased shine, protection, ease of use, etc. Sealants typically provide the longest lasting form of protection which lasts 3 – 6 months depending on conditions. Sealants generally apply extremely thin, wipe on and off very easy and add a fantastic shine to any color paint.

Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield
Spray on Protection - These products add a layer of wax or sealant to further protect and shine the surface. Typically you spray it on the clear coat and wipe it off with a clean microfiber towel. These products are perfect to use after a maintenance wash so your vehicle looks like it’s freshly detailed.

I would start off polishing the surface with some of the Menzerna polishes. Next you would want to apply a glaze which coats the surface and helps fill in imperfections. You can lock this glaze and protect the paint by applying a sealant. You would not be able to use the Klasse AIO because that product would strip the glaze off the surface.

The Klasse AIO leaves a coating of protection so technically you can stop there if you want to. I typically like to apply a pure sealant on top of the AIO for increased durability. You could use both the FMJ and HGSG but they are essentailly the same product. The FMJ is much easier to work with but the HGSG is probably one of the most durable sealants out there. You can spray the Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield on top of any of these sealants.

Here are some sample routines you could use if you want to:

#1
Menzerna SIP
Menzerna PO106FF
Klasse AIO
Klasse HGSG and/or FMJ
Menzerna HGAS

#2
Menzerna IP
Menzerna FPII
Menzerna FTG

Klasse HGSG
Menzerna HGAS

Please let me know if you have any questions about these products or how to best use them together. I'd be happy to help you select some products that will best meet your detailing goals. I hope this helped and I look forward to hearing from you.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,666 ·
I went out with a new girl this weekend. The next day I look at my black leather passenger seat and there is glitter or some kind of shimmer all over it.

Apparently her lotion she used on her legs either contained glitter or some type of product that shimmers.

I immediately used Lexol leather cleaner in the orange bottle but after 5 back to back treatments the glitter shimmer is still there.

I also turned on her seat heater that night to warm her up and I was probably baking on the ****ing glitter.

I can***8217;t stand it.

Please help, I***8217;m one of your existing customers and always will be.

The glitter has to come off.

I also have a piece right on my steering wheel right at 12 o***8217;clock that won***8217;t come off. I***8217;m very upset by this as my car is pristine.
 
#1,705 ·
I went out with a new girl this weekend. The next day I look at my black leather passenger seat and there is glitter or some kind of shimmer all over it.

Apparently her lotion she used on her legs either contained glitter or some type of product that shimmers.

I immediately used Lexol leather cleaner in the orange bottle but after 5 back to back treatments the glitter shimmer is still there.

I also turned on her seat heater that night to warm her up and I was probably baking on the ****ing glitter.

I can't stand it.

Please help, I'm one of your existing customers and always will be.

The glitter has to come off.

I also have a piece right on my steering wheel right at 12 o'clock that won't come off. I'm very upset by this as my car is pristine.
Thanks so much for the advice. I have the glitter from the seat completely removed.

This is how: I took some Leatherique and slathered down the seat. Without letting in soak in for too long I used a shop vac and vacuumed the seat for a long time applying more Leatherique as I vacuumed.

Thanks for the solid advice.
 
#1,667 ·
Glitter will always be the enemy of men. For some reason girls feel the need to have it on while guys detest it. I've never had this exact problem so I'll try and provide some recommendations for what I would try. First and foremost be careful you don't rub too hard and harm the seats, wheel, etc. Here are my recommendations in no particular order.

Try cleaning and conditioning the seats with the Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil and Prestine Clean. Lexol is good but I feel the Leatherique formula is far superior. The Oil is applied first and usually helps release contaminates in the leather. Next I apply the Prestine Clean helps further loosen surface contaminates. It also has surfactants in it that help bring contaminates to the surface for removal. I certainly am not guaranteeing this formula works but these are excellent products for the leather and will hopefully help. If you want to try this set of products let me know and I'll send you my recommend instructions for best results.

You could try wiping down the seat with a warm and damp cloth.

Vacuum the surfaces.

You could try using a cleaner on the affected areas to. While the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover can be used on leather I prefer not to use it on it. I always feel like it would dry out the leather if you used it regularly. I do use it to spot treat stains on leather and it may help get rid of the glitter.

Take a CLEAN brush and lightly wipe down the seats. Make sure the bristles aren't too firm or scratching the surface. A brush may be able to get between the fibers of the seats and pull out the contaminates.

You may want to try any and all of these ideas. Please let me know how you make out for my future reference. If nothing works let me know and we'll come up with more ideas. Good luck!

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,670 ·
Greg, quick question. I was looking at the site last night for tips and saw that it suggests glaze before seal. This would suggest Klasse SG before AIO, although they say to use them in reverse. Also, as directed, I have always wiped AIO on and off. The guide suggests using the PC. Are these steps directed at products other than Klasse?

Thanks, just want to do the best I can for my car! My stuff came in today, I'm excited to give the Menzerna products a try.
 
#1,671 ·
Great questions! Yes I do feel that a glaze should typically be applied before a sealant. However, the Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze is really just a pure sealant. Unfortunately many manufacturer's misuse words when labeling their products in my opinion. A true glaze is IMO just leaves a coating on the surface that is designed to fill in imperfections and reflect the surrounding paint. However virtually any product will fill in imperfections to some extent. "Glaze" is probably one of the most commonly misused words in detailing.

You can use a buffer or hand apply virtually any product. To answer your question more specifically I'm going to quote my last post because I believe it directly addresses your question. "I believe a buffer helps spread the products more thoroughly and evenly over hand applications. I think this advantage is only slight but if you have a choice I'd apply it with the PC. I think the PC has a bigger advantage when you apply the AIO with a white polishing pad. The increased amount of passes from the buffer and a polishing pad will work the AIO in better and help remove more contamination, generally speaking. The PC makes a much bigger difference when you use polishes with cutting particles designed more specifically to remove surface imperfections (swirls, fine scratches, etc.)."

In summary I think your fine with either method while using a PC would get you moderately better results with the AIO. I would buff on (by hand or PC) and wipe off as you have been.

Good luck with the new products and let me know if I can help you any further.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,676 ·
I have not tried it so I really wouldn't know, however 30k for any wax seems to be a little crazy. I mean I love applying a good wax I just don't know anyone who can justify the slight improvement it would be from a quality wax at $30. I keep trying to think of the words to explain my thoughts and I'm really just speechless....

For anyone who would like to read more about this wax and other professional detailers opinions on the subject, you can read more here Detail University - Zymol Solaris $30k Wax.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,679 ·
Another one to bug you with... I have a bottle of P21S paintwork cleanser that I got a couple years ago. Never used. Would it be good to incorporate into my routine, or would I just be doubling up? If you don't remember the TiAg thread I posted a couple weeks ago, I use AIO + SG + P21S.

Thanks!
 
#1,680 ·
The P21S Paintwork Cleanser is a cream based chemical polish that is designed to clean the surface and remove ultra fine imperfections. The Klasse AIO also has chemical cleaners in it which are also designed to remove contaminates, etc. The Klasse AIO also leaves a coat of sealant on the surface that protects the paint. I think the P21S Paintwork Cleanser would do a better job than the AIO at cleaning the paint because it's a just a polish versus a polish with sealant. The Paintwork Cleanser is an excellent product for new vehicles or to remove old wax and sealant. In summary would probably get better results if you added it to your routine but it would primarily be doubling up on a step you already have covered.

I realize that you were considering to add this to your routine because you already had this produce. However if you're looking to add a step in that would more noticeably impact your results you may want to add a clay bar or cutting polish. The clay bar will help remove more surface contamination and the cutting polish will help remove more surface imperfections like swirls and fine scratches. Let me know if you'd like more specific recommendations.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,681 ·
Thanks Greg,

I do clay, but only when necessary.

For a complete detail, I:

Wash twice
Clay
Use Sonus 1, 2, 3 Polishes with orance, green, blue pads
QD
Klasse AIO
QD
Klasse SG
QD
P21S
QD

Upon your suggestion, I just bought a couple Menzerna products to switch it up (as I was out of my Sonus stuff). Tomorrow I was planning to:

Wash twice
Clay
Menzerna IP with Orange
QD
Menzerna PO106ff with White Pad
QD
AIO
QD
SG
QD
P21S
QD

If I were going to use the Paintwork Cleanser, where would I do it? Also, any other suggestions.

ALSO, my wife has an 03 Audi TT convertible. Obsidian Dolomite (beautiful color). Would you switch up anything for that color?
 
#1,686 ·
To help clean or remove excess product from sensitive surfaces like the clear coat I really like the Poorboy's World Spray and Wipe. It helps safely clean the surface by encapsulating contaminates and it wipes away streak free. We offer the Spray and Wipe in 16oz, 32oz and 128oz bottles. This is my "go-to" quick detailer for so many parts of my detailing process.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,687 ·
Are any of the polishes say like mothers etc. good for removing light scratches?

Most of them give hand instructions and machine.Also are orbital buffers(idiot proof) easy to learn.I made the cardinal sin of grabbing a t-shirt out of my work droor and it had a small glob of dried spackle.Left a couple of wide scrathes on my trunk before noticing.Saw a detailer while he was working he could barley feel scratches with he's fingernail. He then put two(2 diff. bottles) applications on in one area by hand and portion he was working,scratch went away. This guy was buisy so got he's card and left.He quoted me $150 to polish and wax ext.said he could remove even the deeper ones with he's machines. Does the hand applied polishes with scratch removers really work---sounds good on back of product???? Thanks Doug in So. Cal.
 
#1,690 ·
Most of them give hand instructions and machine.Also are orbital buffers(idiot proof) easy to learn.I made the cardinal sin of grabbing a t-shirt out of my work droor and it had a small glob of dried spackle.Left a couple of wide scrathes on my trunk before noticing.Saw a detailer while he was working he could barley feel scratches with he's fingernail. He then put two(2 diff. bottles) applications on in one area by hand and portion he was working,scratch went away. This guy was buisy so got he's card and left.He quoted me $150 to polish and wax ext.said he could remove even the deeper ones with he's machines. Does the hand applied polishes with scratch removers really work---sounds good on back of product???? Thanks Doug in So. Cal.

Tough call it sounds like this detailer effectively removed the imperfections in that area. Two polishes sounds like a routine that I would use to help fix a vehicle. If you feel comfortable with his price and skills then you may want to get it professionally done.

If you want to do this yourself you can as well and there are many different ways you can do it. You can polish by hand however it's harder to break down the polish and work it in to the clear coat for best results. Buffers do a much better job of completing multiple passes over the same area which is nearly impossible to duplicate by hand. If you want more information about using a buffer or hand applications I suggest you read our Detailing Guide. A quality buffer, pads and two polishes is usually under $200. Please let me know if you have any specific questions about any part of this process.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,691 ·
HELP!!. I just had my hood painted and unfortunately on the highway today, I had a stupid sand truck blow chips all over my hood. Its not bad but as I just painted the hood, Its obvious when you get close. Is there a way to touch these up without painting the whole hood again? I have a black car so its very irritating to see the non-black spots. Please help!!
 
#1,692 ·
Ouch.... Sorry to hear about it. Did the truck actually chip the paint again through the paint? If so I'm afraid your options are most likely going to be touch up work or a full repaint. If the marks are very light you may be able to buff them out, but this sounds like deeper imperfections. Please describe the marks in a little more detail or take a photo and I'll do my best to point you in the right direction. Sorry again to hear about that.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,693 ·
they are lil chips here and there. it hits and chips the paint off and leave only a white base. I shud have gotten a chip guard put on the next day but was a bit busy then this happens. Will puffing or polishing the hood help?
 
#1,696 ·
Yea my friend who did the job will redo it for cheap now because he feels bad for me. I cant sleep knowing it all happened sooner than its supposed to. They are real chips into the paint not contamination. I have refused to look at the hood. That is how much pissed I am...hahah. O well its just a car some will say! Thanks for your help
 
#1,698 ·
Greg, a Leatherique question for you:

I just had my leather front seats completely re-upholstered (long story). The new hides came from GAHH.com and were installed by a local shop. They look beautiful, and like factory-new.

I have both the Rejuv Oil and Prestine Clean. My question is, do I need to do the Rejuv Oil on new leather? (Obviously, nothing needs rejuvenating.) Or can I go straight to the Prestine Clean? I'd like to avoid the 8-hour routine of the Rejuv oil if possible. The car is my daily driver, and it's hard to find that much down time at the moment.

Thanks,
Nick
 
#1,699 ·
First off please consult GAHH or the installer to make sure it's okay to clean them. Sometimes they may ask you to wait a certain amount of time before applying anything or wiping down the surface.

I'm glad to hear the seats are back looking mint again. As for your routine I think you would be totally fine just going with the Prestine Clean. New seats shouldn't be lacking much of any proteins or have much sun fade. You may want to consider protecting the seats with something like the 303 Protectant, just to keep them looking new. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Greg @ Detailed Image
 
#1,701 ·
I just bought a 2004 325xi and the BMW dealer offers Resistall treatment for the inside and outside of the vehicle. They charge $595 and claim it is warranted for 5 years. They claim that I will only have to wash and towel dry the car to keep it looking new. They also completely detail the car prior to application.

Is this something that I should consider or is it just an overpriced detail job? Thanks,

Bob
 
#1,707 ·
I just bought a 2004 325xi and the BMW dealer offers Resistall treatment for the inside and outside of the vehicle. They charge $595 and claim it is warranted for 5 years. They claim that I will only have to wash and towel dry the car to keep it looking new. They also completely detail the car prior to application.

Is this something that I should consider or is it just an overpriced detail job? Thanks,

Bob
These services are usually just a detail job that are typically not that cost effective. The fine print can involve some very interesting clauses and conditions that may make the treatment less valuable than it appears. I suggest doing some in depth reading of their contract to find out all the information. From all the dealer prep people, forum members and customers I have heard from this is typically not a good value. Individual experience may vary but I've heard way too much bad information to believe in these services. I talked to one person at an Audi dealership who applies this who told me he had no clue what it really wax. If anyone else here has had those services I'd be interested to hear about their review too.

Greg @ Detailed Image
I agree with Greg. I am not pro detailer but I can tell you from personal experience that the warrantee will require that you re-apply the product throughout the period of the warranty.

My guess is that by the time your car needs it's next detail job, you're gonna wanna try a bunch of different products other than OR inaddition to a Paint Sealer.

Lastly, I googled "Resistall" and could only com up with 2 links that had any reference to automotive products. If this product is that great howcome nobody knows about it yet)?

You canprobably get a better paint sealer for 30-50 bucks pocket the $550 or so and have the satisfaction that your car looks great because of the great job YOU did on it.
 
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