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Old 01-05-2017, 01:33 PM   #1
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 13
My Ride: 04 e46 325i
Whats your setup?? Drop me some knowledge!

when i first started messing with the cooling system i obviously didnt bleed it right and what happened is the system purged itself of air...thru the level sensor on the bottom radiator hose. that was a light on/off issue. Replaced sensor completely (youll hear talk of just replacing the o ring if the sensor is good. i say dont be a half ass joe) problem fixed as long as you bleed it correctly. that was about 8 months ago so much knowledge has been gained since original light issue. now shes back...and staying on. but its only been a day which shouldnt matter for diagnosing the issue bc bleeding kills the light soon as you do it correctly it notices. so my theory is yellow service lights are "secondary systems" for lack of better description so the car will run with secondary issues meaning i shouldnt pull my hair out just yet....until red lights start aka "primary systems" which is hey you better park me know or youll be sorry!! yellow leads to red so i park her almost immediately knowing the sassy cooling system we have goes from eh to OMG very quickly. so essentially the car knows every time you pass gas near her. so the effects of proper systems checks balances preventative maintenance replacement etc etc should be noticed felt and recorded by the car almost immediately.

Now my questions are:
? how do you know when youve actually bled your system properly WITHOUT depending on a primitive on/off light
? you personally, what is your method of filling and bleeding
? what fluid you been using
?** AND would potential thermostat issue emerging cause the light to be ON always
?** AND ".....................fan clutch............................................."

my symptoms/details
-continuous light
-small power loss but noticeable (autolite double plat plugs? just installed)
-fan clutch test i do believe ive failed. tested after my 30 ish mile commute to work which if it is in proper working fashion shouldnt let me stop the fan after normal running session when all systems are in harmony. so i shouldnt be able to stop the fan after car warms up driven and parked and still idling to ensure a controlled test. mine stops then will lazy its way up to barely noticeable breeze....
-full resevoir (assuming ive bled it properly)
-**currently Zerex G48 (blue) coolant/antifreeze. BLUE if it and blue DONT DO IT. just slide down to bmw house and get oem juice if your concerned with your 'less than' purchases especially coolant.
-there was a slightly noticeable increase on on the fan noise (just like kick on for any other fan cooling system. cmon its the fan you know what it sounds like when it kicks on sitting in traffic in july)

***past 5 days ive done -plugs (whole different animal)- valve cover gasket-with vcg i maticulously cleaned all components that were removed for valve cover gasket as well as plug housings which two of the six seals on the plugs itself were blown so more cleaning but under that spark plug is another rabbit hole be careful not to disrupt the threads or any integrity of the plugs housing surrounding etc. doesnt matter how fast your car is if you cant get a plug tightened in it you going no where-removing and attempting to reseat the oil sensor directly in front of the initial air survey sensor on the fan shroud or the dreaded "timing" area- Complete de-gunk the entire driver side of the motor due to my power steering resvoir leak(fixed)- reinforced my ccv (oil separator) hoses and elbows i would say be careful but if your car is more than 5 minutes old you are going to break majority plastic you touch in a vacuumed system- oil change (Motul or BMW with K&N filter nothing else in my girl. good luck with the bmw or mann crap)

SO!! with all that being said anyone know why my coolant light wont go off???

power loss: plugs?
light: fan clutch or reservoir?
fan connected to drive belt which is controlled by sensor which if inoperable would cause power loss??...OR i missing a sensor somewhere controlling the whole damn enchilada bc im not overheating or showing any signs of it...AHHH! HELP!!

Last edited by Mr.Wilson; 01-05-2017 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 01-05-2017, 01:41 PM   #2
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 1,156
My Ride: '01 E46 330i sport
how do you know when youve actually bled your system properly WITHOUT depending on a primitive on/off light
? you personally, what is your method of filling and bleeding
The fluid level light does not determine if the system has been bled correctly. It determines the fluid level....

To bleed the system you start the car, unscrew the bleed screw at the top radiator hose by the expansion tank. The car needs to get HOT - it NEEDS the thermostat to open to make sure fluid goes thru the system. Add properly mixed fluid as needed. Continue til no bubbles come out of the bleed screw. Top off radiator fluid if necessary.

This can't be rushed or air will still be trapped.

? what fluid you been using
BMW fluid from ECS.

** AND would potential thermostat issue emerging cause the light to be ON always
Check the fluid level - the popup doohickey will tell you if it is low. Check your car manual to determine how to tell if it is low based on the level doohickey (bobber).

Last edited by CylonRed; 01-05-2017 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 01-05-2017, 01:42 PM   #3
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 331
My Ride: 2003 325xi
What worked for me was just turning the heater on in the car, without it running, and take the bleeder screw out of the top radiator hose, then fill the radiator til some comes out the bleeder hole.
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:35 PM   #4
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,350
My Ride: 2003 325i
After bleeding I always check the level the next morning when the engine is cold.

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325i, coolant, diy, e46, fan

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