Try this: Assuming you did the right thing and built your box SEALED with at least 3/4 MDF (better to use 1" tho) you can squeeze out significantly audible differences out of your box by doing the following:
Buy a quart of 2 part polyester resin, for fiberglass work- it will come with a small bottle of reactant- you only need a few drops for a full cup of resin- like 8 oz resin to 11 drops of MEK (MEK is the reactant- methyl-ethyl-ketone: it is realy nasty ****, so make sure the ventilate and wash hands thouroughly).
Anyhow- pour in about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of resin into each side of the box- just put it flat on a work table and start with the bottom- then do each side. For the driver-panel (the one with the hole in it) use a baffle of masking tape so you have a sort of barrier to hold the resin in place.
A few othe hints: 1) don't ever EVER use screws to hold in the driver that go THROUGH the backside of the driver panel- even though the screws LOOK tight, they DO bleed small amounts of air and cost you dBs- AND clarity.
2) Be sure the seal the corners WELL with RTV- in ADDITION to the resin trick above.
3) don't EVER use one of those stupid terminator-cups for wiring. Simply get yourself a good run of high-quality 12 and 10 gauge speaker wire- make the smallest hold possible in the box to run it through- tie a KNOT in the wire, run that through a 2" diameter metal washer with the smallest hole possible to fit the wire through- RTV the crap out of the hole in the box and run the wire so that the knot is on the inside of the box, the washer BETWEEN the knot and the inner-side of the wood panel where the wire runs through. Literally HANG the entire speaker box by this run of speaker wire- the natural weight of the box will keep plenty of tension and pressure on the RTV so the washer seats nicely and provides a good seal- the resin will take care of the rest.
Try this little trick- perhaps even build yourself a new box- I GUARENTEE you will hear a completely noticeable difference in your sub(s) - I got an extra 7.1 dB out of a single boston 12 (which is quite underpowered by the way, temporarily) by simply using a 1" instead of 3/4 box and getting rid of that stupid teminal cup and using the hung-washer-wire trick and the resin- the sub sounds incredible- so much so that I may not bother adding a seperate amp - this weekend's ski trip will be the decider- If my little P640 can handle powering the whole system as it is configured now without overheating on the way up to hunter (a good 3 hours trip) than it is staying the way it is and I'll be one happy camper.
Good luck- try building a good box and see the difference- you get to save yourself cash on that new sub that you THINK you need...
Buy a quart of 2 part polyester resin, for fiberglass work- it will come with a small bottle of reactant- you only need a few drops for a full cup of resin- like 8 oz resin to 11 drops of MEK (MEK is the reactant- methyl-ethyl-ketone: it is realy nasty ****, so make sure the ventilate and wash hands thouroughly).
Anyhow- pour in about 3/8 to 1/2 inch of resin into each side of the box- just put it flat on a work table and start with the bottom- then do each side. For the driver-panel (the one with the hole in it) use a baffle of masking tape so you have a sort of barrier to hold the resin in place.
A few othe hints: 1) don't ever EVER use screws to hold in the driver that go THROUGH the backside of the driver panel- even though the screws LOOK tight, they DO bleed small amounts of air and cost you dBs- AND clarity.
2) Be sure the seal the corners WELL with RTV- in ADDITION to the resin trick above.
3) don't EVER use one of those stupid terminator-cups for wiring. Simply get yourself a good run of high-quality 12 and 10 gauge speaker wire- make the smallest hold possible in the box to run it through- tie a KNOT in the wire, run that through a 2" diameter metal washer with the smallest hole possible to fit the wire through- RTV the crap out of the hole in the box and run the wire so that the knot is on the inside of the box, the washer BETWEEN the knot and the inner-side of the wood panel where the wire runs through. Literally HANG the entire speaker box by this run of speaker wire- the natural weight of the box will keep plenty of tension and pressure on the RTV so the washer seats nicely and provides a good seal- the resin will take care of the rest.
Try this little trick- perhaps even build yourself a new box- I GUARENTEE you will hear a completely noticeable difference in your sub(s) - I got an extra 7.1 dB out of a single boston 12 (which is quite underpowered by the way, temporarily) by simply using a 1" instead of 3/4 box and getting rid of that stupid teminal cup and using the hung-washer-wire trick and the resin- the sub sounds incredible- so much so that I may not bother adding a seperate amp - this weekend's ski trip will be the decider- If my little P640 can handle powering the whole system as it is configured now without overheating on the way up to hunter (a good 3 hours trip) than it is staying the way it is and I'll be one happy camper.
Good luck- try building a good box and see the difference- you get to save yourself cash on that new sub that you THINK you need...