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DIY: E46 Header Installation Guide

223K views 282 replies 97 participants last post by  dleef 
#1 ·
E46 Header Installation Guide

Parts needed:

Aftermarket Headers (be sure you have the right one that fits your car)
OEM header gasket (Tischer BMW or local dealership)
Spark Plug Non-Foulers (found at local Auto store): http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=486937&highlight=spark+plug+non-fouler
Threadlocker or Loctight (found at local Auto store)
WD-40 (for loosening rusted nuts/bolts)
Masking or Blue painter’s tape (for labeling 02 sensors)


Tools needed:

Allen wrenches
Phillips screw driver
Rachet
10, 11 (short & long drive), 13, 16mm socket
11 and 22 mm open/box wrench
Pliers or Adjustable wrench
OEM Jack and/or Hydraulic Jacks
Jack stands



(modified version of dubplaya’s install guide)


1. Place your front wheels on ramps or jack stands.

----- Jack stands (especially for lowered vehicles): Use your OEM jack (or Hydraulic jack) to jack up either side of your car using the front jack point underneath the side skirt.
----- Now locate the center jack point underneath (There should be a circle indentation located in the front of the car right in the middle).
----- Once you find it use your second jack to lift the front end high enough in order to place the jack stands securely underneath the front jack points (underneath the side skirt)

(courtesy of berserker)
<a href="http://www.rasmus.ca/bmw/jacking_front2.jpg">
<img src="http://www.rasmus.ca/bmw/jacking_front2.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a>

2. Remove the engine covers (four 10mm bolts), cabin filter and housing (four allen wrench bolts)

(courtesy of Minnoe07)
<a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0045.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0045.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a> <a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0046.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0046.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a> <a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0055.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0055.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a>

3. Remove the secondary air pump (three 10mm bolts). There’s two on the top and one on the bottom. Remove the connected plug.

(courtesy of Minnoe07)
<a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0052.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0052.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a> <a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0053.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0053.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a>

**** At this point you can remove and label the top two 02 sensors (22mm) you see above with blue/masking tape (ex. L1, L2, R1, R2)


4. Remove the underbody tray cover (six screws with Phillips head). After you remove it, slide the cover towards the rear of the car.


(courtesy of Minnoe07)
<a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0051.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0051.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a>

5. Remove the metal subframe brace (eight 16mm bolts)

(courtesy of Minnoe07)
<a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0044.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0044.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a>

6. Support the bottom of the motor with a jack and 2x4

7. Unbolt the connecting ground wire from the car coming from the engine mount (13mm)


(courtesy of Minnoe07)
<a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0049.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0049.jpg" width="265x200" border="0">
</a>

8. Unbolt the passenger side engine mount (four 13mm bolts)

9. Remove the bolt holding the passenger engine mount (16mm)

10. Remove Passenger Side engine mount.

**** At this point, you can label and remove the remaining two 02 sensors (22mm) you see below on the headers (ex. L1, L2, R1, R2)


11. Remove the OEM headers and gaskets(sixteen 11mm nuts, eight on each header)

----- You will be spending most of your time here at this point.
----- Start first on the header (longest one) closest to the front of the car.

**** At this point, you can take a break to soak the nuts and bolts w/ WD-40 removing the rust.

(courtesy of Minnoe07)
<a href="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0048.jpg">
<img src="http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n161/Minnoe07/BMW%20Headers/2008_0217Image0048.jpg" width="265x200" width="265x200" border="0">
</a>

12. Install the new OEM gasket and aftermarket headers.

----- Start with the header closest to the front of the car because it will be easier to maneuver the second header in.
----- Make sure you apply Threadlocker or Loctight on the last couple of millimeters of thread before tightening.
----- Be sure to have a paper towel (or Q-tips) handy to wipe off any excess that forms around the hex nut because the product will harden. Do not get any of this stuff in your hair or eyes.

13. Re-install the 02 sensors and spark plug non-foulers in the correct locations

14. With the passenger engine mount, use a pair of pliers or adjustable wrench to remove the excess heat shield. This will help with header clearance.

15. Reverse steps 10 thru 1

----- If you’re having trouble getting the engine mount back in, start with one end (the side w/ four bolts) coming in towards the front of the car then turning it.
----- If you’re having trouble bolting the engine mount back on, start with two bolts in at first tightening them down one by one. Be sure not to strip any threads.
----- After you re-install the passenger side engine mount and ground wire. Start up the car to check and see if you have any leaks.
----- You will see some smoke rise off the headers at first from the Threadlock/Loctight, which will burn off after a few minutes.
 
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#34 ·
Nice write up! Yeah I have been sitting on my headers since FEBRUARY!!! I attempted it once, but it started getting late on a Sunday night & didn't want to have to rush to finish it. This definitely answered some questions, and hopefully has sparked some inspiration! I've sorta been waiting to find a friend with a lift :pimpin:
 
#36 ·
Depending on what you would consider as best.....best performance? best looking? best sounding?

I wouldn't say there is a best exhaust to use with, as most exhausts don't provide much HP compared with some other mods. As for looks, it just depends on what tip style you like.

Now for sound, that is totally up to you again (if you search for sound clips on here you will see quite a few options) How loud do you want, how quiet do you want? Do you like drone or rasp? Do you want to annoy anyone?

Seeing that if you put in headers you won't really have a cat, unless you get an aftermarket one welded in.

After saying that, it would be really loud with headers, no resonators, and a tse3 or straight pipe, but if you had headers, both resonators, and your stock muffler it will be more on the quiet side except that it will have a low rumble.

For a sound in between, I think that you should keep one resonator on, and go with any Ikon, Remus, Stromung, Supersprint, stock muffler, etc (whatever your preferrence), would be fine.
 
#40 ·
Good DIY, but unfortunately, I couldn't do a DIY for mine and I've still got eBay headers lying in my garage. Purchasing eBay headers from the US meant I would get LHD ones, and unfortunately; as well all know we drive on the right. Modifications at my local exhaust workshop would set me back at least a few hundred $AUD - and at the moment; I've got no money from spending too much money on different parts. =(
 
#41 ·
in the process as we speak
 
#42 ·
second o2 sensor the one at the bottom how did you get it to fit with the defouler mod, mine hits the heat shield. need help asap!!
 
#43 ·
also all of the studs came out with the nuts :banghead:
 
#44 ·
No one has answered how much torque is required for putting the new headers back on yet,
also any tips for removing the O2 sensors? they seem in there pretty tight and im afraid of breaking them due to their expense... :O
 
#47 ·
attempted both ways man...just doesn't seem to be any clearance for the 02 sensors. i'm going to pull them off and have a friends dad attempt to make me some 90 degree adapters. i miss my car as it is on a lift in my dad's garage since friday morning. the .7 mile drive there just didn't last long enough. :bawling:
 
#56 ·
Installing MINE TOMORROW! WOOT! :excited:

-TrippinBimmer
 
#59 ·
anyone got the photobucket pix?
 
#60 ·
how long did this take you??
 
#62 ·
I did it a two day segment, one day to take them off and the other to put them on. To take them off, it took me from about 2:00 until it got dark around 6-7, but putting them on only took 2-3 hours. Its not hard, just getting your hands up in the hard to reach areas in the engine bay is the problem.
 
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