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Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 07-04-2017, 05:00 AM   #1
sda2
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Converting M54 fuel system to -AN6

Hi fanatics,

I'm going to take my fuel system apart and want to change everything to -AN6 fittings. Therefor I want to ask, whether anyone of you guys already did a few mesurements in the past.

I need the outer diameter of the M54 fuelrail quick connector (is it 8mm // 5/16" or 9.5mm // 3/8"?)



Because I want to connect an adapter like this to it...

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Last edited by sda2; 07-15-2017 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 07-15-2017, 09:13 AM   #2
sda2
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So I did some measurements and ordered the first parts, the outer tube diameter is exactly 8mm and 20mm long before the hump of the quickconnect. This makes it perfekt for the connector I posted first.

I also decided to use the M52TU fuelrail, as I can easily exchange the fpr for a different pressure regulator or even a variable one. And maybe I can fix those idle issure I get with the large Bosch injectors, as afaik the M52TU fpr can lower the fuel pressure at idle, and therefor go up with the injector pulsewidth.

Some impressions:

M52tu fuelrail looks like a perfect fit and plug and play swap compared with the M54 one:





Easily accessible and interchangeable fpr:





The -AN6 quickconnects fit perfectly as well.







This is the in-tank connection with 90° fittings on it.




Next step is to prepare the in-tank assemblies with the bulkhead connectors and measure amount of hose I need and select a fuelfilter. After that I will pressure test the wohle assembly at 4 bar.

I'm trying to get another AN fitting connected to the OEM fuelpump, this adapter nightmare doesn't look that great to me

Last edited by sda2; 07-18-2017 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:04 PM   #3
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Are you going to run boost later? Pressure test to boost+4bar minimum.

What car is this going into? It is quite a-lot easier to use the factory under body fuel tubing if you are using factory tank/pump etc.
The simplest is to add a surge tank to the engine bay and run the factory rear half. No head pressure makes the in-tank pump work fast and easily.
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Old 07-16-2017, 05:32 AM   #4
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Yep, for boosted application. This will be installed in my 330i Touring with a Holset HX35 turbocharger. I'm aiming for around 460hp-ish and double the torque than factory.

The whole hose clamping shit pisses me off everytime I do something on the underbody of my car, so I decided to go this way.

Yes, it's quite expensive, yes it's not necessary for that low amount of power, but I like those fittings and I already ripped out all the factory stuff and have to redo it anyway.

Thank you for the surge tank idea, sounds quite cool. I have to see what German TÜV says to it Surge tank assembly could go into the DSC/battery area in the engine bay.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:27 AM   #5
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Can you please throw a link for these adapters. Also did you check if they leaked? like prime the fuel pump and see for leakage.
Ive wanted to do that a long time ago , because my FI build , Im gonna install FPR in the engine bay.
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:10 AM   #6
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At the moment I'm waiting for the (just slightly overpriced ) hose, and fuel filter and some addtional fittings, so I was not able to pressurize the system yet.

Today I will start drilling the tank inlays and prepare the pump and return lines inside the tank assembly.

You have several possibilities for adapting the OEM fuelrail to dash:

Use these quick disconnects like me: LINK

"Quick disconnects" with a screwable inlay: LINK

Or you keep the OEM fuel line connected to the rail and use some adapters like these: LINK

Or you can use a screw on fitting: LINK
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Old 07-18-2017, 04:21 AM   #7
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Fuel tank ready

So, yesterday I made some progress and finished my fuel tank. It was not very difficult, but you should be able to work and drill very accurate.

You have only milimeters of space between too tight and a leak, because you hit other holes in one of the in-tank assemblies.

It's crucial to grind and sand down all drilled holes to a perfect flat surface, because otherwise the gaskets won't seal perfectly.


Here are some pictures of my work again:

First of all you have to completely take apart the tank assembly. To take out the return line module, you must disconnect the cross line from the holder on the fuel pumps side:





Unfortunately I don't have pictures from the process of drilling the hole, but basically you only have to saw off the return line nipple on top, sand it down to an even surface and do the same thing on the inside as well.
I took a 14mm drill for all the holes, and had to slightly bend the retainer. Here is what it looks like:





I also exchanged the plastic fuel line between the top connector and the suction jet pump and secured it with a hose clamp.
By the way the stock line is 9.5mm, when you want to reuse it, order a different fitting for the top:





Here is the result:





And over to the second side... Again, saw off the nipple on top, drill a 14mm hole and sand it to an even surface:





Installed my adapter mayhem You can see how extremely tight it is on the inside:





Then I reassembled the fuel pump module and connected it with some braided steel line:





Here is the finished product





A little bonus: I tried to install a -AN6 connector on a piece of 7.5/12.5mm braided steel line and look, it works! Price comparision: 3.70€/m to 15.80€/m



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Old 07-19-2017, 12:32 AM   #8
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it is good to see the internals. I would have thought that there was at least a swirl pot around the pump like the american cars I have seen.
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Old 07-19-2017, 01:20 AM   #9
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There is some kind of s swirl pot glued down in the tank, where the transfer line is snapped in facing to the filter "sock" from the fuel pump.

So, the fuel is basically just pumped around, which I think helps reducing fuel temperature.

I hope, that my new setup doesn't increase temperature that much, because now the fuel circulates through the whole engine bay.
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:04 PM   #10
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Those AN fittings on the assembly , what is the barb size on pics looks small is it 1/4? Also another AN piece in the middle is it fuel filter? Awesome work , im definitely going to do that soon also.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwarel View Post
Those AN fittings on the assembly , what is the barb size on pics looks small is it 1/4? Also another AN piece in the middle is it fuel filter? Awesome work , im definitely going to do that soon also.
The piece in the middle is a female to female swivel.
And I'm guessing that's a 5/16 (maybe 3/8?) to 6AN barb.

Could have gotten away with making a 6AN female and push on into the pump outlet.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sda2 View Post
I hope, that my new setup doesn't increase temperature that much, because now the fuel circulates through the whole engine bay.
Fuel circulation (volume per hour) due to friction contributes significant heat increase. More so than circulation into the engine bay.

Normally choose a fuel pump that will deliver the absolute required fuel flow vs putting in pump rated for far more than what you need.

eg 250 lph vs 350lph.
In one hour the larger pump will circulate just under one whole fuel tank worth of fuel thru the system vs the smaller pump.
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Old 07-20-2017, 12:27 AM   #13
sda2
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Originally Posted by t651 View Post
The piece in the middle is a female to female swivel.
And I'm guessing that's a 5/16 (maybe 3/8?) to 6AN barb.

Could have gotten away with making a 6AN female and push on into the pump outlet.
Yep, this would be definitely the way to go, but I wanted the metric one, so I ordered 8mm fittings with should be 5/16". (When will you guys finally move to the metric system?

But I guess I will change it again, because now I know, that the metric hose I had laying around will fit on the -AN6 female to barb fitting as well. I'm not 100% happy with the present setup.

And I would suggest anyone who wants to upgrade as well, to use 9.5mm (3/8") internally.

Quote:
Originally Posted by t651 View Post
Fuel circulation (volume per hour) due to friction contributes significant heat increase. More so than circulation into the engine bay.

Normally choose a fuel pump that will deliver the absolute required fuel flow vs putting in pump rated for far more than what you need.

eg 250 lph vs 350lph.
In one hour the larger pump will circulate just under one whole fuel tank worth of fuel thru the system vs the smaller pump.
Oh I see, so then I will keep the stock pump, as long as possible and then upgrade to a surge tank with an upgraded pump.

I thought about mounting the surge tank either inside the 4 cylinder box under the hood, or see if it mounts where the M3 coal filter usually sits.

Engine would be nice, as everything is accessible, but all my fuel is above the turbo and exhaust manifold.

M3 coal filter mounting is directly in front of the massive exhaust, so another unwanded heat surce... not sure yet.

Last edited by sda2; 07-20-2017 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 07-20-2017, 01:24 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by sda2 View Post
When will you guys finally move to the metric system?
Yeah try working with NPT, BSP, JIC, ORB...
We've just redone the fuel system in our rally evo. Not fun at all working with all these funny fractions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sda2 View Post
Oh I see, so then I will keep the stock pump, as long as possible and then upgrade to a surge tank with an upgraded pump.

I thought about mounting the surge tank either inside the 4 cylinder box under the hood, or see if it mounts where the M3 coal filter usually sits.

Engine would be nice, as everything is accessible, but all my fuel is above the turbo and exhaust manifold.

M3 coal filter mounting is directly in front of the massive exhaust, so another unwanded heat surce... not sure yet.
Correct. So you would then keep your standard intank pump as a lift pump and use high capacity pump to run the main system.

Basically only change it if you need to.
And surge tank only if you're having issues with the standard pickups.
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Old 07-21-2017, 03:30 AM   #15
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The main idea of a surge tank is to stop cavitation with cornering and allow a smaller in-tank pump to keep up with the high demand "surge" of full power with the larger main pump.

The imperial system is easy if you understand it. 3/8" is 10mm, 5/16" is 8mm, 1/2" is 13mm etc. Most, if not all rubber hoses work across both systems. AN(includes ORB/ORP) and NPT are the most common(American Imperial). JIC is the Japanese hydraulic standard. BSP is the old British imperial system. Metric is more common in brake systems.

The AN system is based upon 1/16" increments. -3AN is 3/16". -6AN is 6/16" or 3/8". -12AN is 12/16" or 3/4". All is based upon the INTERNAL diameter of the pipe/fittings.
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Old 07-21-2017, 04:33 AM   #16
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I know what a surge tank is for. But instead of changing my OEM main pump to a stronger aftermarket one, I want to add a surge tank. Because the last time I had my Walbro 255 installed, I had starvation in sharp corners or excessive drifting Thanks for your explanation!

Today, the filter and hose will arrive, I'm waiting eagerly to set everything up!

Will the system take any harm if I pressure test it with distilled water? I don't want to spray gas all over my lawn
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Old Yesterday, 02:27 AM   #17
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You can use water, just use something like mentholated spirits(ethanol) to de-water the system after.
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