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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 07-17-2017, 05:55 AM   #1
BMOne
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Safe lifting using these 4 ramps?

Hi,

I have a pair of these ramps rated at 1000 KG / 2204 Pound /1 Tone and they have been great lifting the front end.

Now I need to service my transmission,

Would it be safe using two pairs (4 total) to lift the whole car?

I have tried to do some research online and found similar questions asked about rhino ramps, some people said yes, others said no because it could roll off the ramps when lifting.

As opposed to the rhino ramps, these 1K kg ramps sort of lock the wheel a bit as you can see from the picture.

I once had to push my car off these ramps with the found end up and it wouldn't budge

My questions are:

  • Is what I'm planning safe? / Safer than using jack stands?
  • Should I drive the rear on the ramps first then lift the front? Since its RWD and handbrake is in the rear?
  • Is 1600KG / 3527 Pound / 1.59 Tone jack enough?
  • Are 4 of these ramps rated enough for the e46 325ci weight (just want to double check?
  • Or is it possible to service the transmission (drop pan) by lifting only the front end, then using a jack to remove the front ramps then level fluid, and then rejack to tighten bolts?

Thanks for reading
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:38 AM   #2
DEADF15H
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That appears workable. As I'm a nut on safety I would still put back up Jack Stands under it. I never rely on just one source when under the car.
You might be able to drive up on all four at once, but I'd roll up on the front, then jack the back , then slide the ramps under the rear.
Order extra bolts for the pan, you'll probably have a couple bolt heads get distressed. Bentley and BMW suggest replacing all. There's a great DIY on this site and BavAuto has a good video.


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Last edited by DEADF15H; 07-21-2017 at 08:39 AM.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:49 AM   #3
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How are you going to get the ramps in FRONT of the rear wheels? Is there enough ground clearance?

Edit: Reread your OP. Why jack the car to put it on ramps? Why not just use jack stands?
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I just don't know what I'd do with 560 hp that doesn't involve getting arrested.

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Old 07-21-2017, 09:43 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildirish317 View Post
How are you going to get the ramps in FRONT of the rear wheels? Is there enough ground clearance?
LOL, you're right! I was at a desk, trying to think that through



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Old 07-21-2017, 01:23 PM   #5
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Maybe i got confused looking at some other cars forums. I seen a couple on youtube videos getting the front up first on ramps then jacking the rear onto stands. So i might go that route.

Thanks for the the note about the bolts, missed that. How many should i get to be on the safe side, they seem very expensive for a full set??

Last edited by BMOne; 07-21-2017 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 07-21-2017, 02:07 PM   #6
wildirish317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMOne View Post
Maybe i got confused looking at some other cars forums. I seen a couple on youtube videos getting the front up first on ramps then jacking the rear onto stands. So i might go that route.

Thanks for the the note about the bolts, missed that. How many should i get to be on the safe side, they seem very expensive for a full set??


If you're talking about the reinforcement pan, I always replace all 8 bolts. They are torque to yield bolts. You shouldn't reuse them.


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“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.”

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Miller
I just don't know what I'd do with 560 hp that doesn't involve getting arrested.
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Old 07-21-2017, 02:28 PM   #7
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When I did the transmission the first time, I picked up a set of four, 4 ton=8,000 lbs each, jack stands (they were on sale). There's shouldn't be any question about my safety under the car. If you do use jack stands, be sure you know where to jack up the car to get it on the stands.
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Old 07-21-2017, 03:01 PM   #8
DEADF15H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildirish317 View Post
If you're talking about the reinforcement pan, I always replace all 8 bolts. They are torque to yield bolts. You shouldn't reuse them.
There's 22 on a GM tranny, I don't recall how many on the ZF, but I think it is the same. They are torque to yield and are supposed to be replaced, but many have used threadlocker on the old one's. I ordered 12 when I did mine, but will replace all the next time.
DIY link: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=438667



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Old 07-21-2017, 03:13 PM   #9
wildirish317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMOne View Post
Maybe i got confused looking at some other cars forums. I seen a couple on youtube videos getting the front up first on ramps then jacking the rear onto stands. So i might go that route.

Thanks for the the note about the bolts, missed that. How many should i get to be on the safe side, they seem very expensive for a full set??
I think people use ramps for the front so they can get the jack on the lifting point. I don't use that point. I jack the rear pads to install the front jack stands and vice-versa. There's a thread on this (of course there is) here somewhere.
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“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.”

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Miller
I just don't know what I'd do with 560 hp that doesn't involve getting arrested.
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Old 07-21-2017, 04:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
There's 22 on a GM tranny, I don't recall how many on the ZF, but I think it is the same. They are torque to yield and are supposed to be replaced, but many have used threadlocker on the old one's. I ordered 12 when I did mine, but will replace all the next time.
wildirish317 wasn't talking about the bolts on the transmission pan, rather the bolts that hold the metal reinforcement plate under the back of the engine. Those bolts are supposed to be replaced each time, as they are stretch bolts.

The bolts on the transmission pan can be reused with some blue threadlocker, and are torqued to 6nm (ZF) or 10nm (GM). Or you can buy new ones that come with threadlocker already on them.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sansho View Post
wildirish317 wasn't talking about the bolts on the transmission pan, rather the bolts that hold the metal reinforcement plate under the back of the engine. Those bolts are supposed to be replaced each time, as they are stretch bolts.

The bolts on the transmission pan can be reused with some blue threadlocker, and are torqued to 6nm (ZF) or 10nm (GM). Or you can buy new ones that come with threadlocker already on them.
Can someone point me to a diagram? I though all i do is undo fill and drain bolts and drop the pan? ZF auto?

I dont recall anything about a reinforcement plate?

There's another pan where the filter inserts into that 50skid said you may want to drop a bit to get more oil out?

Is blue permatex thread locker safe or really needed?

Last edited by BMOne; 07-21-2017 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Can someone point me to a diagram? I though all i do is undo fill and drain bolts and drop the pan? ZF auto?

I dont recall anything about a reinforcement plate?

There's another pan where the filter inserts into that 50skid said you may want to drop a bit to get more oil out?

Is blue permatex thread locker safe or really needed?
Since you're asking these questions, you are not ready to proceed.

First, you need to know if you have a GM or ZF automatic transmission. There are a number of posts here that talk to how to do this. It's important, as they use very different transmission fluid, which is not compatible between transmissions.

As stated above, you can buy new transmission pan bolts, and they will have dry blue thread locker on them. Or, you can reuse your existing bolts by cleaning them and using Loctite or Permatex blue thread locker, which comes in a tube. Of course, you can choose not to use thread locker and just reuse the existing bolts. And perhaps the bolts won't come loose over time and cause transmission fluid to leak. Since the factory bolts come with dry thread locker, that might be a hint.

Perhaps consider investing in the Bentley service manual. The pictures and descriptions often fill in where DIY might not (and visa versa).
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Old 07-21-2017, 08:56 PM   #13
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I have a zf and i picked up some motul multi atf which is suppose to be compatible. I'm going to grab some permatex blue since local bmw dealer have no bolts in stock today. How much blue stuff should i put on? Any pics or diy that talk about this?
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Old Yesterday, 01:37 AM   #14
BMOne
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Disregard thd last question about how much to apply. It was my first time using this stuff, dumb question.

I might just grab a couple of bolts to be on the safe side and do like you said with the blue.

If anyone has any tips of sees something I'm missing let me know.

Thanks for the help all ***128077;

I got ready:

oil
Filter
the blue stuff
some spare bolts
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Old Yesterday, 04:28 PM   #15
Sansho
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Quote:
I have a zf and i picked up some motul multi atf which is suppose to be compatible.
I know time, and science, marches on, and perhaps I'm conservative, but BMW and ZF say not to mix LT 71141 and Dexron transmission fluids. While Motul says their multi ATF is compatible with both, if it were me (who is planning on keeping my e46 for at least another 100K miles), I'd stick with what ZF recommends.

Don't forget:
  • The filter should have a new sealing o-ring on the pipe.
  • You need a new gasket for the transmission pan.
  • You should have new sealing ring(s) or new bolts (with integrated rubber seals) for the oil pan drain and fill bolts.
  • ZF tightening torques: drain plug 35nm, fill plug 30nm, transmission pan bolts to sump 6nm
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