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Oil Filter Housing Gasket DIY w/ some pics

364K views 248 replies 124 participants last post by  dirty vert 
#1 · (Edited)
I just replaced the $6 gasket recently and decided to take a few pics. This is my first time doing the job and it was fairly easy. My car was leaking oil about 1 quart every 2500 miles.

1. drive car on ramps or put on jack stands.

2. remove bottom engine splash shield

3. remove air filter box and remove the 2 nuts holding up the power steering reservoir. Put it to the side.

4. Remove fan and fan shroud

5. remove upper radiator hose (optional step, it just help clear up some room)

6. remove the alternator belt.

7. disconnect the negative of the battery first before messing with the alternator. (added by SSM1991)

remove alternator at these locations. I think the 2 bolts are 13mm. pull the electrical connector and unscrew the red battery terminal (13mm). Also remove the lower air 3 inch duct.



8. with the alternator out, its time to remove the 6 bolts (13mm) that holding the oil filter housing to the engine. Important: Remember the locations of each bolt because they're different lengths. It will help alot when it's time to re-install the housing. Also remove the oil line at the top near the radiator hose and remove the electrical connector to the oil housing.





9. Pull the housing away from the engine. as you can see there are small collections of oil nearby. I didn't completely removed the housing, I just pull it off enough to remove the gasket.



10. picture of gasket that's harden and brittle. it's cracking in a few spots.



11. replace with new gasket and reverse all steps to finish.

12. top off coolant and some oil. Oil doesn't really leak out at all when you pull the housing off.
 
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#214 ·
I suggest cleaning everything up before putting everything back together. Easier to see future leaks if everything's nice and tidy.



Just make sure you don't get any dirt in the upper chamber since it's post-filter. Put rags or paper towels there before cleaning the surrounding area.








What did you use to clean it this well? Details...steps?


Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#7 ·
Yea, you don't need to remove PS reservoir. Just move it to the side.

You did a hell of job cleaning up the oil filter housing and surrounding areas. I did clean it up some after I put the housing back on but no where near what you did. Your's look factory new. :bow: Was your housing leaking before too?

I didn't bother to completely remove the housing because there were too many brackets attached to it from the bottom. I was getting tired in the hot sun, so I just pull it off enough to swap the gasket.
 
#9 ·
wow, that is one hell of a cleaning job!

Great DIY, I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one who has found just about every surface below the intake manifold covered in oil. It really is amazing how the oil manages to disperse all over the entire compartment. I think I'm going to be tackling this job this coming weekend.

Did either of you (SSM1991 & Kyle808) find any other source for your oil leaks or was it just the housing gasket? I've done a ton of work on my car....everything from a full clutch/flywheel replacement, through a complete cooling system overhaul, and on and on...but diagnosing this leak has proven to be a real bear simply due to the pervasiveness of oil on so many components.

Lastly, SSM1991 which engine degreaser did you use, solvent-based or citrus-based? Was it easy to rinse off the cleaner after it soaked on the surfaces or was it still stubborn?
 
#10 ·
I've already replaced the valve cover gasket at 100k, and now this at 144K, so let's wait and see what the engine looks like after 2k miles with the new oil filter housing gasket. I cleaned up surrounding areas near the housing and underneath the engine too so it'll be easy to spot leaks. I'll report back later if there's any more leaks.
 
#15 ·
Hello,
I am perfectly inclined and able to do this DIY, but I just got done doing a coolent overhaul and just dont feel like messing with it. My local Indy Shop quoted me $250 to replace the gasket, which is getting worse, I am now leaving puddles of oil when parked over night. My question is, is it worth paying the $250 and have it done professionally, or just do it myself? There are just some things I would rather pay someone to do, and this one looks like a good one to have someone else do.
 
#16 ·
I don't think the job is hard at all really, probably will take 4 hrs. The hardest part is trying to pull the alternator out and putting it back in. You have to align it just right. Just need some patience here.

You rather lose $250 or 4 hrs?
 
#21 ·
hey man, thanks to you for pointing me in the right direction and with the instructions in my other thread about looking for the leak.

thought I help out other fanatics with this write-up and pictures since I was in the process of doing it anyways.
 
#20 ·
My own tips:

- It is critical that you disconnect the negative of the battery first before messing with the alternator. So just start off with that.
- You do not have to remove any coolant hoses
- It's much easier to just remove the banjo bolt of the VANOS oil hose on the VANOS unit side (front) than on the oil filter housing side (down and back).
- Clean, clean, clean, clean everything you can ....
 
#22 ·
oh yeah, good tips. Yea, you don't need to remove the upper radiator hose, I did it because it gave me more room to work with.

I'll go back and edit my original post. thanks.
 
#24 ·
Quick question, is it possible to change this out, without removing the fan (auto)?
 
#25 ·
My DIY was based on an auto and it will be pretty cramped if you don't remove the fan.. I mean you need to remove the alternator and the belt, the fan is definitely in the way. You will need a special tool 34mm to remove the mechanical fan, that's the downside.
 
#27 ·
How important is it to get some new washers for the Vanos oil hose? If important can I get some at any local auto store?
 
#29 ·
Ok.. here's the best I could find from another thread (24ft/lbs).

Tighten
just snug with a ratchet. Using a torque wrench, tighten to 10 ft.lbs.
In a crossing pattern first. Then I tighten them to 24 ft.lbs., doing
the bottom left, then the top right (remember the alignment pins?) and
then continued in a crossing pattern. NOTE: The best spec. I could find
for these bolts was 16 ft.lbs. But it still leaked. My BMW Mechanic
friend said M8 bolts could go only as high as 26 ft.lbs. Also depending
on the length of the socket extension you use could also affect the
torque wrench settings. I would investigate this completely and use a
setting particular to your setup.
 
#30 ·
Hello everyone. This is an excellent DIY write up Kyle808! Thank you!

One question. Can someone please tell/show me the VANOS banjo and where the washers are that I may need to replace when doing this?

Also, a bit more detail on how to remove the fan and shroud and alternator belt would be great for me.

Thanks,

Tom
 
#31 ·
You can see the Vanos banjo in this picture. it's circled in yellow in the far left. I think it's an 18mm or 19mm socket. It's pretty big.



You you have an automatic, you will need a special 36mm BMW tool. You will need to turn it clockwise to loosen the 36MM fan bolt. The shroud is just a couple of 25 torx screws on the left and right. Something like this:



Alternator belt, just turn the belt tensioner clockwise to release the tension and then slip the belt off.
 
#33 ·
No reason to remove it completely, just push it off to the side. The gasket will probably get stuck in the housing itself, in which case you can pry it out carefully, probably in several pieces. Once it's removed, clean both mating surfaces. The gasket sits in a channel in the housing, so seating the gasket is not an issue. Just put some oil on it, push it in the channel, and reattach the housing to the engine.
 
#36 · (Edited)
Any tips on removing the housing? I have the six bolts off, undid the oil pipe going to the vanos, all electrical connections are off but this thing won't budge. Also, those dowel pins are not listed anywhere, anyone have part numbers in case I bend mine?

edit: Never mind, got it with a few taps with a rubber mallet. Now if I can only undo this power steering pump. Already have two bolts off but it is still sticking to the housing. Does anyone know how many bolts is holding the P/S pump to the housing?

edit edit: Got it! Stupid bolt under neath in the back.
 
#38 ·
Thanks for the DIY. Did mine today, along with both hoses to the power steering reservoir and the belts. About 8 hours total and between taking it out and putting in back, I probably spent 30-40 minutes wrestling with the alternator. A quick couple of tips -- a pry bar helps immensely taking it out, and a rubber mallet for putting it back in.

I hate the quick release connector used on the reservoir return line. The plastic release ring just disintegrated on me. I ended up getting out the Dremel to get it off. Works well, just make sure not to nick the power steering radiator line.
 
#39 ·
Perhaps I celebrated a bit too early, or perhaps I'm just unlucky. The check engine light came on driving around town today. Cam shaft position codes. Not a faulty sensor, but one code for over advanced, and one for under advanced. Car doesn't appear to be running or idling rough, but since I had to undo the VANOS line and the electrical connections to the VANOS solenoid, I'm wondering what I screwed up.

I've cleared the codes and I'm about to run some errands so we will see if they come back.
 
#41 ·
You will need a 17mm or maybe 19mm wrench for the Vanos bolt. I don't remember exactly.

I don't see how you can do it without taking off the fan. You really need the space.

No need to drain the oil.

not sure about rental at pep boys.
 
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