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how to ACTUALLY route wires from trunk to HU???

7K views 20 replies 9 participants last post by  bigjae1976 
#1 ·
Ok, so to begin, YES i have searched these forums. and others for that matter........

i finally have my sub box built and everything is here including my amp and wiring kit.

Every time i find some thread about wiring RCA cables, the people are like, "oh just wire the RCAs on the drivers side.........."

well i took out my rear seats {I HVE A SEDAN} and i routed the wires through the places where the stock wires are and then i run into a problem........

how is it physically possible to wire these into this car???? one dude was like, yo use a coat hanger. bullshit, not a chance i can use a coathanger to wire RCAs under the door sills?>

first of all, you cant even pull the carpet back that far because of the center area being connected.....

secondly, even with the rear door plastic sill off, i still have to then magically route the wires from there under the side B pillar and then under the drivers door plastic sill AND THEN up behind the dash??!?!?!

has anyone actually done this and taken pictures because the people that say they have, have honestly given me pretty poor advice. Thats why i ask y'all.

Can anyone help me out?!
 
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#6 ·
I haven't dont this in my BMW, but when I had my Nissan Xterra, it was VERY easy. In the Xterra all I had to do was take out the driver side door panels and ALL the carpet came up. I just peeled back the carpet and it was super easy to run the wire to the HU. Since a BMW is a lot more complex than an Xterra, I would jsut have it done professionally. That way you have someone doing it who does it for a living and knows what they're doing
 
#11 ·
Well I happened to take photos of the build. Here ya go: I used mdf, carpenters glue, caulk, and non hardening rope caulk to seal the speaker in:













Box is made, and sounds very impressive. It's a tad more than .75 cubic feet, which is the optimal size for my sub in a sealed enclosure.

I have the wires completely hidden save the drivers side door sill and the foot rest. Any one know how to pry these guys off/remove them?
 
#15 ·
It's a temporary box for the winter. I made it in a weekend. I'm going to spend a while making a custom rear deck box once the weather gets consistently warm (probs summer). It will sit flush in the rear deck!

What wood do you recommend I use for my final box this summer? And it will most likely be ported.
 
#18 · (Edited)
MDF is a lot denser than that, the ground up particles are very fine and it makes for a VERY sturdy material, cuts a lot cleaner too. The stuff you used is a lot lighter and less dense, made of course particles. BUT you constructed it very sturdy and all the glue will keep it solid. No worries, it will work fine.
 
#20 ·
Lol. Wow there certainly is a difference! Too bad the folks at homedepot have no Idea what they are talking about. Ill be sure to grab the right stuff next time around.

However, update to the actual thread:

I managed to remove the drivers side door sill. It was secured by 4 clips that go into the chassis. The only way to get the back on is to remove them from the chassis with plyers and slide them into the slot on the sill. There is actually just one long slot so that is why you can move the sill forward and backwards when it is in place.
 
#21 ·
There is a ton of OEM wiring along both sides of the car. Best and shortest way to route most of your wires is up the middle of the car. Take apart the center console and sear seat. Then use a coat hanger or fish tape to get it from the back of the console to the rear seat area under the carpet.

BTW, the box looks good. Your particle board b0x should survive indefinitely. The problem you might run into is particle board is not quite as dense and is more porous than MDF. I don't think you can hear the difference between particle board box or an MDF box.

Wood screws FTL...Use an air nailer! Saves you a ton of time and effort when building your box.
 
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