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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 04-22-2017, 08:37 AM   #681
jetblackcookie
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Join Date: Jun 2016
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My Ride: '01 325i 260k miles
I would like you to add something specific to the list. My 2001 E46 Sedan (M54) had a crank/no start for 6 months. I contacted dmax about it a few times. It finally ended up being that one of my O2 sensor WIRES was shorting against my engine. The WIRE had come out of its clips and sat against the engine. The heat melted through the shroud and melted the wires inside together. If anyone has tired themselves looking through threads, and this list without fruition, definitely inspect all the O2 wiring.
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Old 04-23-2017, 06:30 PM   #682
Steve0111
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Hi all, got a lot of good information here but having trouble with start problem. I have no power on any fuse at the EBox, have power on cranking at fuse 29, all lights, windows work etc, unable to read DME as no power to it,
fuel pump not running, anyone know where power supply to Ebox fuses comes from? Thanks for any help
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Old 04-23-2017, 07:16 PM   #683
tubbs76
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Originally Posted by Steve0111 View Post
Hi all, got a lot of good information here but having trouble with start problem. I have no power on any fuse at the EBox, have power on cranking at fuse 29, all lights, windows work etc, unable to read DME as no power to it,
fuel pump not running, anyone know where power supply to Ebox fuses comes from? Thanks for any help
Un plug your oil level sensor plug from the oil level sensor that sits in the sump. swap fuse 30 for a new 7.5 amp fuse in the glove box. Start the car and see if it gets power. A faulty sensor causes these issues and allows power but no start. Will cost you nothing to try this and a very high chance could be your cause of issue as it runs on the same line that the battery, alternator, etc run on. If it is the issue, you can run it unplugged for the time being, order an new sensor, drop the oil and replace.
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:04 AM   #684
Steve0111
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Tried that but no go, Where is power supply for ebox fuses, there is no power on any of the 5 fuses
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:29 AM   #685
tubbs76
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Originally Posted by Steve0111 View Post
Tried that but no go, Where is power supply for ebox fuses, there is no power on any of the 5 fuses
Could be wrong but my understanding is that the power for the e fuses runs directly off off the red power cable.
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Old 05-04-2017, 01:45 PM   #686
asturias2_
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thank you for putting This together! Great info! I read through some of the posts and seem to still be a little confused on what my issue might be. My car is a 2002 M3 and I've been having start issues.
It first started when I noticed a couple weeks ago that the car was cranking a little weak at times until last Saturday. I turn the key all the lights on the dash come on as normal I push the clutch in turn the key and no start. Made no sound whatsoever. The next morning it started up which was strange. Now it keeps staring but every time the crank sounds like it's getting weaker and weaker. In the past 6 months I've replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay, alrernator and I have a key thats about a month old. I put the key in and open the drivers door and the car makes the beep sound so it's reading the key. I also go the battery tested at autozone and it was working fine. I have been having limp mode and EML issues prior to this. I removed the intake manifold to see the starter crank and to check my TPS connections and it stared up again with a weak crank. Prior to this I had codes

76 electric throttle signal potentiometer throttle

77 electric throttle signal potentiometer servomotor

After starting it I scanned the car and had codes

3a voltage supple sensor 1
3b voltage supply sensors 2
3c signal pedal position sensor 1
3D signal pedal position sensor 2
51 interface multifunction steering wheel / steering column stock
85 CAN timeout steering angle sensor
86 CAN timeout instrument cluster
2c signal thermal oil level sensor
29 signal mass air flow sensor
36 systems voltage main relay
42 EWS interface no communication

Some are related to the car running without the manifold but the EWS one and voltage ones are what have me concerned and thinking that might be the issue I'm just not too sure where to start. If it was an EWS issue the car shouldn't start right? But it does it just cranks weak. I also notice that a single tick sound comes from the DME fox maybe 20 seconds after I shut the car off Thank you!!

Last edited by asturias2_; 05-04-2017 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:20 PM   #687
FCBuff
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Hello, another no start problem.

My 2006 M3 6mt intermittently starts. When it no starts, I get 1 click, then nothing. Try again later, it works, starts like usual. I have checked the following:
Battery 12.6v
Front jump terminals 12.6v
Alternator 12.8-13.2v (seems weak?) dashboard diagnostic
No visible corrosion

Going to check starter terminals voltage
Under side ground cable connection

How to diagnose clutch switch? If it is intermittent problem?

Weak alternator , is this coincidence. Should be over 14v correct?
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Old 05-21-2017, 01:37 PM   #688
E36 Ron
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I finally got PA Soft 1.4 to work somewhat in my 323i. It cannot communicate with the EWS at all, comes up "EWS not found". I am beginning to believe my EWS is shot. When I went to pull it, it was covered in corrosion at the connector. I think I have the connector cleaned out pretty good now, but it still can't find it. I'm thinking about just getting a modified DME and putting the EWS experience behind me. Or, should I order a new EWS and have it flashed to my car?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts...

Ron
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:39 PM   #689
jmo69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FCBuff View Post
Hello, another no start problem.

My 2006 M3 6mt intermittently starts. When it no starts, I get 1 click, then nothing. Try again later, it works, starts like usual. I have checked the following:
Battery 12.6v
Front jump terminals 12.6v
Alternator 12.8-13.2v (seems weak?) dashboard diagnostic
No visible corrosion

Going to check starter terminals voltage
Under side ground cable connection

How to diagnose clutch switch? If it is intermittent problem?

Weak alternator , is this coincidence. Should be over 14v correct?
Alternator should be putting out 13-14v. On my e36 I bypassed the clutch switch, jumped brown to purple/brown? Been a while and different chassis. Eventually replaced the starter, but never got just a click until the battery started to die.
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:40 PM   #690
E36 Ron
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So I pulled my EWS connector apart and it is corroded all the way inside the connector where the pins are. I could possibly be missing 2 pins from the EWS module. Looks like they could have been eaten by the connector. One row of the small pins is missing two pins. If anyone is interested, or feels like they can help, I will try and put some pictures up. It's going to be tough soldering a new connector up inside my dash. That thing is a beast to get to.
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Old 05-21-2017, 04:21 PM   #691
E36 Ron
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I just ordered a used DME that bypasses the EWS module, so the smaller pins on the EWS (that corroded away on mine), are no longer needed. The person I purchased mine from called me personally and talked me through how to properly diagnose my EWS, to make sure his part will take care of my situation, (on a Sunday no less). I have tried others and was left out in the cold. Once I fire my little 323i, I will report back and let you all know how it turns out.
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Old 05-24-2017, 09:23 PM   #692
E36 Ron
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Runs like a champ! Rebuilt the cooling system and installed new power steering lines and reservoir while I was in there. A little corrosion just about had me ready to sell the old girl. If anyone wants the information on the guy I bought my DME from, just shoot me a pm. He went above and beyond to help me out, great guy!

I hope you all find the solution to your problems...

Ron
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Old 06-11-2017, 12:12 AM   #693
salimj99469
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Hi , I have a problem, when switching on the ignition,the heat gauge temperature goes to high ,and the engine is not starting.

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Old 06-18-2017, 01:35 PM   #694
Outlaw4149
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E30 with s50 swap

Recently my car started acting up but seems to only be after it is drove for a while or is just running for a while then it will start idling rough and will just die and won't restart till it has set for awhile then it starts up and runs like a champ. Any Ideas I'm lost I almost thing something is getting to hot and just shutting off. Fuel pump or relay. Please help I'm lost
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Old 06-18-2017, 02:52 PM   #695
jmo69
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Originally Posted by Outlaw4149 View Post
Recently my car started acting up but seems to only be after it is drove for a while or is just running for a while then it will start idling rough and will just die and won't restart till it has set for awhile then it starts up and runs like a champ. Any Ideas I'm lost I almost thing something is getting to hot and just shutting off. Fuel pump or relay. Please help I'm lost
Wrong forum, try the e36 forum on bimmerforums.com more m50/s50 experts over there.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:05 AM   #696
Jo
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Please help out with my e46 318i, cranks, but no start.

Hi everyone , I have a e46 2000 318i, it has the m43 engine. I tried starting the car yesterday, fuel was a bit low (bellow 1/4) , so I filled up fuel but still not starting, it cranks but doesn't want to start, there is spark, and there is fuel, the plugs also keep soaking with fuel, I put new plugs but still soaking with fuel. If someone knows what is wrong, please could you help me out ?

Last edited by Jo; 06-19-2017 at 10:09 AM. Reason: mistake
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:53 PM   #697
keenyoung
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Door chime does NOT mean the EWS sees the key.

Let me first say that this thread has been invaluable to me for diagnosing my no crank issue, and thank you. However, there is one thing that needs to be corrected.

Under number 5, Fuses, Relays, and modules it reads: "If you hear a beep with the key in the ignition and the driver's door open, the EWS is recognizing the key."

This is not the case. I spent hours trying to find a problem with the EWS because I assumed my door chime implied that the EWS was seeing my key. I finally got a cable and INPA, which showed a code of 125, EWS parity error. Research suggested that an EWS parity error was almost always a bad key, and sure enough, with a new key my car is starting again.

Last edited by keenyoung; 06-19-2017 at 10:59 PM. Reason: Added title
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Old 06-20-2017, 04:57 PM   #698
Gabrielito88
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Im having a strange problem. The car doesnt start intermittently.
The symptoms are:
Sometimes it cranks a little and it stops but the starter motor spins alone.
Sometimes only the starter motor spins and it doesnt crank at all.
I pulled out the starter and got it tested on a starter motor repair shop and its working fine.
The solenoid works fine.
Battery voltage is ok.
When solenoid engages fine the car starts right up.
I read that the ignition switch could be failing but couldnt check that yet thoroughly.
Does anyone know where the small wires coming out of the solenoid are connected to?
Need help please
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:59 PM   #699
Dweber325ci
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E46 NO START list of possible causes

I figure I'd post here since my post 2 weeks ago isn't getting many answers
I have a 2002 325 CI lots of miles, lots of work done. I personally didn't do all of the work but researched everything that was done to it.
It was approaching one year since I bought the car so I got it inspected and when I got home I said hey let me replace the spark plugs.
Next day I had some time so I decided to swap out the charger port that hasn't been working for months. Popped out the old socket. Power and ground, ppiece of cake hooked the new one up and it worked. Went to push it back in and.....*sparks* everywhere. Shiiit. Tried to start my car...no crank/no start. Everything else works. Figured I popped a fuse. Nope all the fuses are good. Above the glove box, in the trunk and in the dme box. Also the charger port is still receiving power.
After that I went to the battery and had sufficient voltage so went to the terminal and had correct voltage there as well. When I try and start the car I hear the fuel pump priming and only a click. Mechanic said I'd need a starter soon and that was a year ago so I ran with that. Figured it was stuck or bad.
So long story short I remove the intake manifold and tested the starter and am getting constant power from B. Removed C and turned key...nothing. Tested blue and black wire in ignition switch, I'm getting voltage when I turn key to start... about a volt less than the two power wires in the middle of the switch. I don't understand how to test the clutch switch if anybody could help me out here.
I apologize for the length here



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Last edited by Dweber325ci; 07-09-2017 at 01:55 AM.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:49 PM   #700
12inch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keenyoung View Post
Let me first say that this thread has been invaluable to me for diagnosing my no crank issue, and thank you. However, there is one thing that needs to be corrected.

Under number 5, Fuses, Relays, and modules it reads: "If you hear a beep with the key in the ignition and the driver's door open, the EWS is recognizing the key."

This is not the case. I spent hours trying to find a problem with the EWS because I assumed my door chime implied that the EWS was seeing my key. I finally got a cable and INPA, which showed a code of 125, EWS parity error. Research suggested that an EWS parity error was almost always a bad key, and sure enough, with a new key my car is starting again.
Hey Keenyoung

When you have the parity issue with the key, were you able to hear the starter engage and crank the engine? Or was it completely silent when you turn your key to start?

I'm wondering if I'm having a bad EWS or a bad key (I've tried both keys though) but there was no crank. Battery is brand new and fully charged over night. Starter is brand new and I was able to hot wire the starter and it cranked the engine without problem. So I was wondering if a faulty ews will prevent the starter to engage and crank completely? Or does EWS only prevent the injector from working?

Thanks!
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