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The Tire Rack's Tire & Wheel Forum
Use this forum to discuss anything in relation to wheels to tires to offsets.
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:30 AM   #1
fonzie
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Style 68 wheel and tire questions

I have some Style 68 wheels:

http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/w..._wheel_068.jpg

and needed to know two things:

1.) What size is the emblem on the center caps? I need to buy replacements for all four wheels. If you have suggestions on best place to buy that would be great.

2.) I currently had 225/45/17 around all four tires. I am in need of new ones and in my research I found that my car came with staggered tires. Front - 225/45/17 Rear - 245/40/17 So my question is what would the benefit be of going back to those two different measurements? Does it justify the cost and inability to rotate the tires?

*Bonus: I'm also wanting to get run-flats (which is what I was currently running). I'd like to hear some pros and cons.

Edit: upon further research on realoem.com it appears the center caps measure 68mm. Interesting coincidence. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.

Last edited by fonzie; 04-24-2016 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 04-30-2016, 12:23 AM   #2
Sicily1918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzie View Post
1.) What size is the emblem on the center caps? I need to buy replacements for all four wheels. If you have suggestions on best place to buy that would be great.

Edit: upon further research on realoem.com it appears the center caps measure 68mm. Interesting coincidence. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.
Yeah, they're all the same (on the E46... and quite a few other models). Part 36136783536.

BMW changed them a few years ago so they look slightly different (the older ones have a white outer lip and look like they're 3-piece, while the new ones are two and look concave) -- since you're getting all 4, you should be good to go.

www.getbmwparts.com has them for $11.60 each...

Quote:
2.) I currently had 225/45/17 around all four tires. I am in need of new ones and in my research I found that my car came with staggered tires. Front - 225/45/17 Rear - 245/40/17 So my question is what would the benefit be of going back to those two different measurements? Does it justify the cost and inability to rotate the tires?

*Bonus: I'm also wanting to get run-flats (which is what I was currently running). I'd like to hear some pros and cons.
I kept my 325 square when I went 18" (225/40R18) because I like to rotate the tires and extend their life. My ZHP's staggered, and I kept the 225/40R18 and 255/35R18 setup.

To your questions: If you like understeer, wider rears are a pro, and I can see why you might want it with the power behind a 330. Having had said that, I do miss the feel of non-understeer (my wife took the 325). Of course, this is coming after 120,000 miles and 13 years on my 325 on squares, so I'd grown used to a certain response that's different on my ZHP. I'd say it's really personal preference, except that you [should] have staggered M68 rims -- if that's the case, then you can't rotate the tires anyways, even if you kept it square rubber, and the point becomes moot. At the very least, you probably shouldn't run wider, heavier rims in the front.

As for cost, looks like a difference of $60 (total) for staggered Michelin SuperSports (assuming that's what you went with), so it's not much -- $525 vs. $585.

Lastly, I considered run-flats, then decided against it. They offer a harsher ride and handling that the E46 was not designed for, they're much more expensive, and they're more difficult to repair (can you plug a RF tire, so long as the sidewall's OK?). Also, I only run Michelin SuperSports, and they don't come in run-flats, so...
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:15 AM   #3
CharlieFoxtrot
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The only benefit of staggered wheels/tires is pimpy good looks. If you're into that...

There are a lot of downsides to runflats. When's the last time you got a flat on a regular tire? Mine was 10 years ago. The spare on my 330 has never been on the ground. Who needs runflats? Not me.

As for your current setup, non-M cars came with 7.5" fronts and 8.5' rears. Better make sure what you actually have. And note that M cars had an optional factory 7.5" all-around fitment with different offset than non-M, and you don't want those wheels for a non-M.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:24 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Sicily1918 View Post
At the very least, you probably shouldn't run wider, heavier rims in the front.

I don't buy this. The 68 is the lightest factory 17" E46 wheel. An 8.5" style 68 (the widest factory 17") is still lighter than most of the narrower factory wheels. It's a bunch lighter than the 18" and 19" wheels that everybody wants to put on. And it's lighter than many aftermarket wheels.

So yes, it's heavier than a 7.5" style 68, but that's no justification for not using it.
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:12 PM   #5
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I don't buy this. The 68 is the lightest factory 17" E46 wheel. An 8.5" style 68 (the widest factory 17") is still lighter than most of the narrower factory wheels. It's a bunch lighter than the 18" and 19" wheels that everybody wants to put on. And it's lighter than many aftermarket wheels.

So yes, it's heavier than a 7.5" style 68, but that's no justification for not using it.
Buy it only with the whole package; yeah, 8.5" in the front is not unusual, especially with aftermarket rims, BUT, would you ever actually run 8.5" rims -- with their more aggressive offset and weight -- up front while running the exact opposite -- lower offset and weight -- 7.5" rims in the rear? Think about how that would affect the handling.

I mean, you couldn't even have a true 'square' setup, as half of the tires would either be stretched or bunched in relation to the other two.
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:41 PM   #6
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would you ever actually run 8.5" rims -- with their more aggressive offset and weight -- up front while running the exact opposite -- lower offset and weight -- 7.5" rims in the rear? Think about how that would affect the handling.
I guess I can see where that came from, but that's not what I meant.

My point is the OP should first confirm he still has the staggered wheels. I've seen threads where people found out they have 3 of one wheel and 1 of another. Or with non-staggered tires already, maybe he's got 7.5" all around.

My 2nd point was there's no benefit to staggered wheels or tires on our cars with 50/50 weight distribution and not a heck of a lot of power.

I've just finished a hunt for a pair of 8.5" style 68s so I can run squared 245s on 8.5s on mine, and got my new tires last week.

And then if he wants to be able to rotate the tires, I kind of made a logic jump, without actually saying so, that he'd need square wheels.
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Old 06-15-2016, 06:18 PM   #7
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I found the OEM center caps x4 for $10 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:05 PM   #8
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I guess I can see where that came from, but that's not what I meant.

My point is the OP should first confirm he still has the staggered wheels. I've seen threads where people found out they have 3 of one wheel and 1 of another. Or with non-staggered tires already, maybe he's got 7.5" all around.

My 2nd point was there's no benefit to staggered wheels or tires on our cars with 50/50 weight distribution and not a heck of a lot of power.

I've just finished a hunt for a pair of 8.5" style 68s so I can run squared 245s on 8.5s on mine, and got my new tires last week.

And then if he wants to be able to rotate the tires, I kind of made a logic jump, without actually saying so, that he'd need square wheels.
Ah, well, then that makes sense.
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Originally Posted by BKMrSteel View Post
I found the OEM center caps x4 for $10 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ummm... I suppose it's possible, but I find it hard to believe that anyone could sell new OEM center caps for $2.50 when they go for over $10 each. According to some of the reviews, they're knock-offs.
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:12 PM   #9
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^^^ I agree, and sadly I ordered different caps... lol, I think it is important when picking a seller on Amazon, and not going to the default.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:28 AM   #10
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What tires would you guys suggest for these wheels? The tires I have on the front are causing bad tramlining and I want to change them out asap. They're Bridgestone Potenza RE050As
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:41 PM   #11
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I've always run Michelin PSS 225/45/17 and 245/40/17 rears on style 68's.
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:12 PM   #12
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ARe you still runnning the staggereed setup? I have no experience with your Bridgestones, but I'd first suspect an alignment issue for your tramlining problem. I've always run Continentals (except for some kind of Toyos that were on the car when I got it). I've just changed to squared 8.5s with 245s but don't have any miles on it yet. I'm about to drive from FL to NY so I'll have a report soon. I run all seasons so it can be driven safely in feezing temps and/or light snow if I get caught out before installing winter tires.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:33 PM   #13
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Yeah it is a staggered setup. The front tires are 205/45s. Do you think the fact that the tire is not wider could be causing that? Granted, I need to do an alignment anyway
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:50 PM   #14
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I have never run "stretched" tires, so I have no personal experience to back up why I think they're a bad thing. I have a lot of reasons, just no proof. My advice is don't do it. That's one less thing to wonder about when your car doesn't drive right.

Read the various threads about alignment. Between finding a shop that is even basically competent, or one that will use ballast when aligning, or deciding to trust the "ballast compensating" software (if they have it), or deciding whether to use factory spec or some other spec (and understanding why), there's a lot to think about.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:54 PM   #15
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I have never run "stretched" tires, so I have no personal experience to back up why I think they're a bad thing. I have a lot of reasons, just no proof. My advice is don't do it. That's one less thing to wonder about when your car doesn't drive right.

Read the various threads about alignment. Between finding a shop that is even basically competent, or one that will use ballast when aligning, or deciding to trust the "ballast compensating" software (if they have it), or deciding whether to use factory spec or some other spec (and understanding why), there's a lot to think about.
I got these tires with the wheels when I bough them. Threw them on after they sat in the garage through the winter. I definitely want to say they are the culprit
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:04 PM   #16
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I had a set of 205/40/17 on a 17x8, didn't like it. Too low profile, and skinny stretched look isn't my thing. 225/45/17 and 245/40/17
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:31 PM   #17
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I think my problem with the Bridgestones is that they indeed are too low profile. Not enough room for the tire to absorb the road before sending the car in different directions
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:20 PM   #18
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Took a road trip with that tire setup, encountered some bad roads along the way, and I blame the low profile for having replaced two wheels after.
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Old 06-18-2016, 07:30 PM   #19
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What tire pressure would you guys run on these wheels? I'm not sure if it would make a big difference in tramlining but it helped some people, apparently fixing it for some as well
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:11 AM   #20
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All this talk of understeer. Are you talking about track use?
Are you really taking turns so hard that you're losing traction on the public roads?

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