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Old 11-23-2016, 11:09 PM   #1
aleksankazakov
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Lean Condition and mess with fuel trims

Lean Condition , misfiring followed with low cat efficiency added on top to that.

To all who can contribute any solution to the posted condition, I appreciate.

Intro:
I have read and scrolled through multiple threads related to similar issues and found that despite the issues might be similar or sometimes the same in multiple threads, the solutions and causes are mostly different, it would be a waist of time to guess what the cause is based on just descriptions that last pages without any data.
So I added all the logging data as Jfoj recommends. The OBD Fusion (app) settings were set to what Jfoj recommends based on the manual available out there in multiple threads. (correct me if i perhaps missed anything)

The Car
:
2004 e46 330i M54 (production August 2003) 210k miles. I had this car since 120k miles and had put on it the rest , I have been maintaining it fairly well.

History of the issue
The issues started ths summer, when the car turned over 200k , first the sap pump went off, I replaced it and replaced the secondary air pump maf and the hoses. This fixed the issue. the SES light went off, it went off for a day and then new codes popped up,
The first trouble codes were system too ritch and too lean at the same time and cats had low efficency codes as well. Then i was sitting on the parking lot, idling, the SES light went off, I was quite happy. On the way home, from the traffic light up the hiull I have accelerated half the throttle and the SES light came back on with lean condition and cat efficency codes and missfiring that seems not to be related to coilds or spark plugs since I changed both, and the issues remained till this day.

The description of the issue as it is seen from the driver seat BESIDES the fact that it doesn't pass any emissions and has about 10 CODES:

#1 The car over all drivability is acceptable, to put aside all the codes and describe what it actually feels, it defiantly lost some power but it goes from point A to B without any issues and does not stall, slow but it drives well I would say, the idle isnt that bad, mostly the idle will feel smooth only once touched the accelerator, the idle might slightly change and rattle for a sec and then return to what feels normal.

#2 Hesitation, sometimes when pressed on the accelerator at the stop to go, the engine rpm would choke down as if I put the car on a wrong gear on a manual T and then it would recover and launch (if you know what I mean).
When full throttle (what if): The most of the issue seems to be present during the acceleration (if to forget about the million codes it tosses and it can not ever be registered again) The performance issues at the dead stop, I could swear a buss would hand my ass to me if we were racing figuratively speaking I describe the performance loss. But once the car is over 3-4k rpm, it would feel better, more normal.

#3 Codes: P0430, P0420, P0102, P0304, P0300, P0174

The DropBox link is down below to all the logs
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sq20wuhxl...XdTJLk2ea?dl=0

#1 Cold Start 4 min idle
#2 Warmed up idle for 4 min
#3 Steady High Way ride for 4 min at 55 mph
#4 Regular street ride for 4 min under 50mph

Thank you all.
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Old 11-23-2016, 11:48 PM   #2
Dhinez
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I would start with the basics meaning vacuum leaks. Check the throttle boots for cracks. Maybe the CCV crapped out or the hoses to it cracked. Many will say do a smoke test to find where a leak. Some will say that your DME needs to be reflashed with updated software. Start with the simple things.

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Last edited by Dhinez; 11-23-2016 at 11:48 PM.
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Old 11-24-2016, 08:53 AM   #3
markusmarkus
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What are the codes? Misfires? Has the fuel pump ever been replaced? We need the codes. jfoj can analyze the files. Drop him a pm.
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:13 AM   #4
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I know this sounds trivial, but when did you last replace your air filter?
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:26 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhinez View Post
I would start with the basics meaning vacuum leaks. Check the throttle boots for cracks. Maybe the CCV crapped out or the hoses to it cracked. Many will say do a smoke test to find where a leak. Some will say that your DME needs to be reflashed with updated software. Start with the simple things.

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The codes are listed above. The fuel pump and the filter were replaced in 2013. I also walked around the engine trying to identify any possible vacuum leak spraying carb cleaner and was not able to find any. I had tried to replace o2 sensors and did not gain anything from it.
At one point i suspected the MAF, because the car run exactly same with or without it.
At this point i started to log the data trying to see the issue on paper. I already see that short term trims get negative here and there.
I compared the behavior of bank1 to bank2 and it looked as if bank 2 trims are smooth almost straight line. That's why i need opinion of someone on this. Thanks





Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovett View Post
I know this sounds trivial, but when did you last replace your air filter?
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Old 11-24-2016, 09:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clovett View Post
I know this sounds trivial, but when did you last replace your air filter?
The filter is K&N washable.
Here are the fuel trims at warm idle graphs I made from the files, ofcorse the files have more detailed information than this, but it is just a visual.
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Old 11-24-2016, 11:22 AM   #7
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Please run a Diagnostic Report during warm idle and post the results. Ignore the warning that pops up if you are using OBDFusion.

If you have not seen the PDF in this thread, please check it out - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 11-24-2016 at 11:23 AM.
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Old 11-24-2016, 02:15 PM   #8
aleksankazakov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Please run a Diagnostic Report during warm idle and post the results. Ignore the warning that pops up if you are using OBDFusion.

If you have not seen the PDF in this thread, please check it out - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893
I appreciate your help. I read the pdf. Thanks The diagnostic report is in the Dropbox. Same link. Here it is again. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sq20wuhxl...XdTJLk2ea?dl=0
Thank you.

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Old 11-24-2016, 06:06 PM   #9
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The STFT are VERY high at idle. LTFT for Bank #2 is pushing almost to 10%, so there may be a few problems.

My first guess is the CCV lower oil return line that connects to the base of the dipstick guide tube.

Also assume there may be a problem with the vacuum plugs on the rear of the intake as well??

Smoke test is the best way to find any vacuum leaks, but I would check the hosed mentioned above. You can also replace it with fuel line in a pinch as well.

Sort the STFT first then see what is/are the next problem(s).
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

Last edited by jfoj; 11-24-2016 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 11-24-2016, 07:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
The STFT are VERY high at idle. LTFT for Bank #2 is pushing almost to 10%, so there may be a few problems.

My first guess is the CCV lower oil return line that connects to the base of the dipstick guide tube.

Also assume there may be a problem with the vacuum plugs on the rear of the intake as well??

Smoke test is the best way to find any vacuum leaks, but I would check the hosed mentioned above. You can also replace it with fuel line in a pinch as well.

Sort the STFT first then see what is/are the next problem(s).
Thank you, I will look into this tomorrow, there has to be a leak then, I will report back.
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Old 11-25-2016, 06:42 AM   #11
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Check dipstick o rings. Rear manifold vacuum ports. Throttle body, disa gasket, icv grommet, air distribution piece o rings, injector o rings (I guess you can spray these o ring areas easily). Intake boots, ccv pipes, vacuum port on ccv capped? Vcg leaking? Is your valve cover warped? Verify o2 sensors are connected properly to their correct banks. I think the rubber parts to the manifold total $300 in parts but in my opinion it's well worth doing it all once and for all if you intend to keep the car long term. I struggled with these dam codes for 5 years. Once I fixed the p0174 the cat efficiency code disappeared after 2000 or so miles. My problem was incorrectly connected o2 sensors and a bad maf so not even sure if the rubber parts I changed even helped. Good luck.
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:18 AM   #12
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The OP's problem is most likely a smaller vacuum leak into the crankcase from the first guess, but the problem could also be with the vacuum hose(s)/cap(s) connected to the rear of the intake.

Doubt the intake boots are a problem, but like anything on these cars, it is not worth screwing around and playing Whack-A-Mole and just repairing a single problem caused by a rubber part. Yes you may want to repair the current problem, but by year 10, a SMART owner will shotgun the plastic and rubber parts under the hood and just replace everything so they do not have the constant problem with these nagging and returning Lean codes.

But the OP also has P0420/P0430 so he may want to just correct the current cause of the Lean code then focus on the P0102, P0420 and P0430 before spending too much time and money on the plastic and rubber parts.

Lots of variables on this car at the moment.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 11-25-2016, 07:12 PM   #13
aleksankazakov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landlorder View Post
Check dipstick o rings. Rear manifold vacuum ports. Throttle body, disa gasket, icv grommet, air distribution piece o rings, injector o rings (I guess you can spray these o ring areas easily). Intake boots, ccv pipes, vacuum port on ccv capped? Vcg leaking? Is your valve cover warped? Verify o2 sensors are connected properly to their correct banks. I think the rubber parts to the manifold total $300 in parts but in my opinion it's well worth doing it all once and for all if you intend to keep the car long term. I struggled with these dam codes for 5 years. Once I fixed the p0174 the cat efficiency code disappeared after 2000 or so miles. My problem was incorrectly connected o2 sensors and a bad maf so not even sure if the rubber parts I changed even helped. Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
The OP's problem is most likely a smaller vacuum leak into the crankcase from the first guess, but the problem could also be with the vacuum hose(s)/cap(s) connected to the rear of the intake.

Doubt the intake boots are a problem, but like anything on these cars, it is not worth screwing around and playing Whack-A-Mole and just repairing a single problem caused by a rubber part. Yes you may want to repair the current problem, but by year 10, a SMART owner will shotgun the plastic and rubber parts under the hood and just replace everything so they do not have the constant problem with these nagging and returning Lean codes.

But the OP also has P0420/P0430 so he may want to just correct the current cause of the Lean code then focus on the P0102, P0420 and P0430 before spending too much time and money on the plastic and rubber parts.

Lots of variables on this car at the moment.
Here is the update, there is a change and I am about to describe what i have done today.
Today, we had a target. It was the possible leak located at the dipstick rubber hose. So I started cold turkey taking the sh*$#t a part. I did not have any replacement parts in stock available and did not want to go straight to the smoke test, but instead wanted to just find anything that can look worn or bad while taking everything a part.
First I removed the rubber intake boots, the lower one was in a bad shape, but did not look like it had holes, more like microscopic cracks running at the smaller boot hose. When I was removing it, the hose completely broke off. I did not have a replacement boot so I temporary glued it back and covered it with silicon to prevent leaks.
Count 1 bad intake boot (Action taken) Temp repair
Then I removed DISA, Disa looked decent, defiantly no structural damages, the seal would appreciate a new gasket, but I doupt it leaked a lot,
(Action taken) - Applied thin layer of gasket maker to see if there is any difference
Then i removed the throttle body, the throttle body was cleaned and inspected and found in good working order.
Then i pulled out the dipstick tube with the hose for the EVAP system, the same hose Jfoj suspected to be in trouble. I inspected the hose and found no visible damages, in fact the hose looked very well preserved, surprisingly it wasn't decomposed or cracked having on it 200k+ miles.
The O ring on the dipstick tube wasnt damaged, it looked a little compressed due to age, but looked like it still can seal.
Dipstick tube action taken, clean the tube, apply thin layer of gasket to help the aged oring seal better.
Then i inspected the plastic line for Evap, which runs from the top of the gasket cover down to the valve. The tube looked old, when moved it made cracking sounds as if it was almost breaking due to harden plastic getting ready to snap off. I inspected the tube and it looked like it is in one piece, so no action was taken here.
Next when I was putting everything together, the hose which runs from the Break booster to the intake, the part which is closest to the break booster, snapped of clean. Completely snapped off. So as a temp fix before i get the new one i had to glue it back, add a layer of rubber and add silicon on top to prevent leaks. Count 2 bad break booster line.

After I put everything back, I scanned the system with the app to see what was the change.
The TID $01 went from 64 to 59 out of 58 max. I was 1 dihit close to get it resolved.
So I am going to purchase new lower intake boot, new break booster hose and new evap plastic tube which runs from the valve cover down to the valve and oil dipstick o ring. What are your thoughts on this? I hope we are moving to the right direction here. Thanks.
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Old 11-25-2016, 08:04 PM   #14
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Are you 100% sure the hose from the bottom of the CCV to the dipstick guide tube is in good shape?? Usually they have a foam outer covering that will hide the fact that the actual hose is collapsed and torn. I cannot belive it is original if it is in the shape you claim it is in.

You really should just replace the entire CCV system and all hoses.

DISA O-ring needs to be replaced they usually do not last even 40k miles, my 2006 had the DISA replaced under the 48 Month/50k Mile Bumper To Bumper Warranty.

Smoke testing is the 100% way to find leaks, even cracked and leaking valve covers/valve cover gaskets.
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:29 PM   #15
aleksankazakov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Are you 100% sure the hose from the bottom of the CCV to the dipstick guide tube is in good shape?? Usually they have a foam outer covering that will hide the fact that the actual hose is collapsed and torn. I cannot belive it is original if it is in the shape you claim it is in.

You really should just replace the entire CCV system and all hoses.

DISA O-ring needs to be replaced they usually do not last even 40k miles, my 2006 had the DISA replaced under the 48 Month/50k Mile Bumper To Bumper Warranty.

Smoke testing is the 100% way to find leaks, even cracked and leaking valve covers/valve cover gaskets.
Thank you again for the live tips. I will try not to waste the webspace with my detailed replies and will try to elaborate it as short as possible, bit as defined as possible as well to easy the understanding for all.
Yes I am sure that the bottom hose, which connects to the dipstick tube is in 100% good shape. I personally moved the cover up and down the hose exposing the rubber, i also bent it and did not find any visible cracks under sunlight clear day light. I got the car when it had 120k, I suspect some works have been done before i got it as I assume many things are due at 100k. Not a fact it happen, just looks like some things were done I dont have any records of this.
Speaking of the CCV system, I appreciate the advise to demo it and install the new system.
Today I got really close to it, I would not write the entire system off just yet for the following reasons but I will still leave parts of it to be in question I just want to be staying in budget as of supposed to a shop. A shop would always just throw parts in because they just suspected something to be an issue.

The main cause of this decision is that I dont see any signs of failed CCV as a whole system yet, but today I did replace some parts of it,. I have replaced the hose which leads to the valve cover. It is known to cause issues, it was also suspected to be the issue here.
I also replaced the intake boot and all O rings on the dipstick tube. I have attacked the common lean code causes from all directions and hope this will cure it, but I truly believe the issue is somewhere else. Completely remote from this. I plan to start looking at the fuel supply.
I will do the smoke testing as the last resort, it cost my time to bring to designated shop to get it tested and it also costs money, I dont have a smoke machine and if I buy one it will be the last tool i need before i can open a shop, it is getting ridiculous , the amount of tools i bought ever since I got to have this car, noone else i know has to do what I have to do owning a car but i own the E46 so I have to work on it while normal people watch football or what ever, but I like it.
I also decided to clear all codes because many codes were old and false from stuff I forgot to plug in while assembling everything back. I will start from scratch having the things mentioned already replaced. this will help to pinpoint other issues and see the difference. Lets wait till the codes return. Thank you all. I will post.

Last edited by aleksankazakov; 11-26-2016 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleksankazakov View Post
Thank you again for the live tips. I will try not to waste the webspace with my detailed replies and will try to elaborate it as short as possible, bit as defined as possible as well to easy the understanding for all.
Yes I am sure that the bottom hose, which connects to the dipstick tube is in 100% good shape. I personally moved the cover up and down the hose exposing the rubber, i also bent it and did not find any visible cracks under sunlight clear day light. I got the car when it had 120k, I suspect some works have been done before i got it as I assume many things are due at 100k. Not a fact it happen, just looks like some things were done I dont have any records of this.
Speaking of the CCV system, I appreciate the advise to demo it and install the new system.
Today I got really close to it, I would not write the entire system off just yet for the following reasons but I will still leave parts of it to be in question I just want to be staying in budget as of supposed to a shop. A shop would always just throw parts in because they just suspected something to be an issue.

The main cause of this decision is that I dont see any signs of failed CCV as a whole system yet, but today I did replace some parts of it,. I have replaced the hose which leads to the valve cover. It is known to cause issues, it was also suspected to be the issue here.
I also replaced the intake boot and all O rings on the dipstick tube. I have attacked the common lean code causes from all directions and hope this will cure it, but I truly believe the issue is somewhere else. Completely remote from this. I plan to start looking at the fuel supply.
I will do the smoke testing as the last resort, it cost my time to bring to designated shop to get it tested and it also costs money, I dont have a smoke machine and if I buy one it will be the last tool i need before i can open a shop, it is getting ridiculous , the amount of tools i bought ever since I got to have this car, noone else i know owns any other car brand that I know has to do what I have to do owning the E46.
I also decided to clear all codes because many codes were old and false from stuff I forgot to plug in while assembling everything back. I will start from scratch having the things mentioned already replaced. this will help to pinpoint other issues and see the difference. Lets wait till the codes return. Thank you all. I will post.
A smoke test should probably be one of your first actions. You don't HAVE to buy an expensive smoke machine. You can use a cigar, a cheap fluid transfer pump, a rubber glove abd some rubber bands. There are videos on YouTube
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Old 11-27-2016, 03:59 AM   #17
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http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1115860

Cheap fluid transfer pump from your local auto parts store or Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Multi-Use-...fer+pump&psc=1

A few rubber gloves, rubber bands and some cheap mini cigars from our local gas station or convenience store.

Also get a good, bright LED flashlight to locate the escaping smoke. Look deep in the engine compartment and under the engine if needed. Do not forget the dipstick guide tube and the lower CCV oil return line. These areas may be hard to see from above in the engine compartment.

After looking for intake air leaks, remove the oil fill cap and allow the crankcase to fully fill up with smoke, then replace the oil fill cap. Check for cracks in the valve covers and leaks around the grommets, half moons and around the perimeter of the valve cover.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:13 AM   #18
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Smoke Test

Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post




http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1115860

Cheap fluid transfer pump from your local auto parts store or Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Multi-Use-...fer+pump&psc=1

A few rubber gloves, rubber bands and some cheap mini cigars from our local gas station or convenience store.

Also get a good, bright LED flashlight to locate the escaping smoke. Look deep in the engine compartment and under the engine if needed. Do not forget the dipstick guide tube and the lower CCV oil return line. These areas may be hard to see from above in the engine compartment.

After looking for intake air leaks, remove the oil fill cap and allow the crankcase to fully fill up with smoke, then replace the oil fill cap. Check for cracks in the valve covers and leaks around the grommets, half moons and around the perimeter of the valve cover.
Good day, i have done the smoke test this morning as instructed, did exactly what was shown. I smoked it hard and did not find any leaks, absolutely none. Also the monitors did not test themselves out since I cleared the codes so the lean codes did not return just yet since I replaced the intake boot, CCV line and o rings on the dipstick tube.
I am woundering, should I look into testing the fuel system pressure or removing and cleaning the fuel filter? Both the pump and the filter were replaced in 2013 i think with genuine BMW parts. Thanks,
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:17 AM   #19
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At this point you may have corrected any small vacuum leaks. I would take no further action as far as repairs.

Suggest you drive the car normally for a few days and include 15-20 miles of highway driving. If all is well the Emission Readiness Monitors should all turn to Ready/Clear/Pass.

Post a new Diagnostic Report and warm idle Fuel Trims or a warm idle Log once the Readiness Monitor process is completed.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 11-27-2016, 04:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
At this point you may have corrected any small vacuum leaks. I would take no further action as far as repairs.

Suggest you drive the car normally for a few days and include 15-20 miles of highway driving. If all is well the Emission Readiness Monitors should all turn to Ready/Clear/Pass.

Post a new Diagnostic Report and warm idle Fuel Trims or a warm idle Log once the Readiness Monitor process is completed.
Drove around a lot and waited till the codes return and surely the light turned on while i was on the highway cursing at 55mph on cruise control.
P0420 and P0430, then the P0174 showed up as pending following the two. I am confused now, what is going on.

Here is the shared diagnostic and idle link. Thanks.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bmgxj6o5g...2I62mvrCa?dl=0

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bad cats, bad pre-cat sensor, cat fault code, lean codes, not the fuel pump, p0174

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