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Old 11-27-2016, 06:08 PM   #21
jfoj
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You need to read the PDF closely in this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893

The proper Pre-cat Wideband O2 sensor PID's are not chosen.

I also need to see a 4 minute highway cruise and cold start Log as well.

Something bad is going on with Bank #1, Sensor #2 O2 sensor or catalytic converter.

Not sure if we correct the Lean condition if this will resolve the P0420/P0430. One of the problems with the P0420/P0430 codes is they often are due to failing converters and can be a nuisance however they may or may not impact performance but cause headaches for Emission Inspections and so forth.

How long has your car had problems and/or CEL/SES/MIL on?
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

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Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 11-28-2016, 09:03 PM   #22
aleksankazakov
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
You need to read the PDF closely in this thread - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893

The proper Pre-cat Wideband O2 sensor PID's are not chosen.

I also need to see a 4 minute highway cruise and cold start Log as well.

Something bad is going on with Bank #1, Sensor #2 O2 sensor or catalytic converter.

Not sure if we correct the Lean condition if this will resolve the P0420/P0430. One of the problems with the P0420/P0430 codes is they often are due to failing converters and can be a nuisance however they may or may not impact performance but cause headaches for Emission Inspections and so forth.

How long has your car had problems and/or CEL/SES/MIL on?
My bad if I missed anything in PIDs and I appreciate the help, last night I went back to the PDF, and redone all PIDs to ensure I get it right.
Here is the link to all the new data logs. The cold start with idle, highway ride and just warm idle log.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3ijqobikk...roo-iYraa?dl=0

Today since last night the P0420/430 stayed as hard confirmed codes and the P0174 remained as pending. I am not sure if it will post as a hard code, I really hope the lean condition was cured.
The car rides better now than before for sure. No more hesitation and no more misfiring codes.
Obviously the catalytic low efficiency codes dont give me a pass yet, but I will not be surprised if the cats are dry now and you will read in this reply why I think so, the car has 210k on it and the fact the cats lived up till this day is a good run. Once you will look at the fuel trims and O2 sensor signals, let me know if it does look that way, I appreciate.

The problem started 3 month ago, that was when I was dealing with the EGR valve failure. I cured it and more codes came back rich/lean conditions with p0420/430 codes. That was right above when the odometer turned at 200k, (death switch activated). (Had to also redo the entire drive-train bushings as everything was rotten and the engine and the diff were not even going in the same direction and stuff was rubbing against stuff the engine was loose.
Having fixed all of the above I drove around with the SES conditions till October, a month ago to start fixing the issues.
At the start I have changed all 4 O2 sensors (used) thinking it was related to them, the original sensors were covered in something yellow, it looks like rust dust which is extremely dry and there was a lot of it. I believe this is from running lean. Everything turns into rust type of dust . This is what the exhaust was was full of since I discovered the dust or even before, I cant check that but the engine under cover inside was surprisingly clean (Saw it clean when i changed the valve cover gasket recently).
Please look at the files and let me know if it looks like both cats are dead and if you see any lean condition.
I will probably order a pair of used working converters.

Thanks.

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Old 11-29-2016, 09:13 AM   #23
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When I fixed the p0174 code I also had 1 for p0420 follow. Now after a few thousand miles the cat code does not pop up any more and I've driven quite a bit since without codes. Also car performance was great with the code present. I bought cats used as well but the code disappeared itself anyway. Don't rush out to get cats so fast.


Please verify your o2 sensors are connected right to its correct bank. Trust me !!! Or if you cant be bothered to check it like me just swap the connectors and see what happens. This got rid of my p0174 code once and for all.

I'm also at 200k miles like yourself.
I was also driving for 5 years and 50k plus miles with these codes until finally fixed. Seems like my cats are "ok".

Good luck.
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Old 11-29-2016, 02:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landlorder View Post
When I fixed the p0174 code I also had 1 for p0420 follow. Now after a few thousand miles the cat code does not pop up any more and I've driven quite a bit since without codes. Also car performance was great with the code present. I bought cats used as well but the code disappeared itself anyway. Don't rush out to get cats so fast.


Please verify your o2 sensors are connected right to its correct bank. Trust me !!! Or if you cant be bothered to check it like me just swap the connectors and see what happens. This got rid of my p0174 code once and for all.

I'm also at 200k miles like yourself.
I was also driving for 5 years and 50k plus miles with these codes until finally fixed. Seems like my cats are "ok".

Good luck.
Yeh. The car rides just fine. I will try to switch sensors and see what will happen, but out of what i read, those who try it get rough idle and a code cats reversed. The car would not run well if sensors were not operating in the designated banks.
What if i reverse post cat sensors? Has anyone tried it?
I have 1 months to resolve the cat low efficiency codes before emissions are due. As alast resourt i bought a cat cleaner (sneak oil). I doubt it will work but $10 is worth a try before i make a purchase of new used cats. Thanks
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Old 12-01-2016, 09:06 PM   #25
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Gettin' Close

Guys, there is a reveal in this issue.
You can scratch everything that was concluded here. There are two issues that I believe going on and one of the issues I think just shined a light.
The P0420/0430 is a separate issue from the LEAN condition I am having.
Last week I was looking for vacuum leaks that did not exist. The smoke test and hours spent in the engine bay done proved the fact that there were no leaks but the code P0174 was there.
Last week I cleared the codes and was riding around with just the cat low efficiency codes and 1 instance of P0174 lean condition only PENDING which means the OBDII did not detect its occurrence more than once per cycle that is why it never became a code that can light up the SES, but obviously it is not what I am about to write.

As I was reporting in the beginning there was a lean condition and misfiring. No one seemed to pay any attention to the misfiring, but misfiring actually was what led me to conclusion i am about to make.
I have had another issue that I did not report here. Lately, for the past month i had issues after hard acceleration. Once hard acceleration occurred for (x) period of time, the engine started misfiring so bad that it was hard to make up the hill but the condition would only last for 2 - 3 min and then everything would return back to normal and there will always be a misfire on cylinder #1 or #4.

So here is my conclusion: Today after riding with just the cat low efficiency codes, the car running perfectly smooth and fine, thinking the p0174 is a history I decided to try what happened if I punched it hard for a long enough time to see if I can recreate the issue.
I performed full throttle acceleration for about 10-12 sec and the car pulled hard for about 10 sec and then turned to crap and the engine started to misfire and the P0174 with misfire at cylinder #1 came back as a hard code and everything came back to normal in about 2 min.

Here is what I think is happening, first I defiantly think it is solely the fuel system issue and here is why; mainly it is the fact how the issue happens but also all coils and spark plugs are new, all O2 sensors were replaced, I tried 2 different MAFs, I have done proved there are no vacuum leaks.
I suspect the fuel pressure is the issue here, possibly it has to be the only thing that can case this terrible, disgusting problem.

When the car is going full throttle it consumes the fuel rapidly from the fuel lines and from where ever it remained pressurized prior the acceleration, these are the first 10 good sec of a good running pull, but once the fuel pump can not keep up to maintain the pressure in the lines to feed the hungry engine going full throttle, for what ever reason, the system goes all the way to lean and misfires at cylinder #1 because the cylinder #1 is the first cylinder to run out of fuel. It is a truly DISGUSTING issue and I hate it.
Could be a bad fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or bad pressure regulator. I will investigate further to find this disgusting part.

Thanks.

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Old 12-01-2016, 11:34 PM   #26
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It looks like your maf reading is low at idle so i suspect your maf is failed or you did not buy a genuine part. It should not be that low at 700rpm warm idle. correct figure is more 3.5-3.8g/s. Is you maf vdo/siemens? Did you buy it cheap or from ebay? Someone correct me if i am wrong...!

I still think you may have crossed your pre cat sensors as well and the stft's are very similar to mine at idle when my wires were crossed before (hitting 20's too much)

Good luck ! I have been through your symptoms even the uphill one which was very very annoying, it makes you wonder all sorts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aleksankazakov View Post
Yeh. The car rides just fine. I will try to switch sensors and see what will happen, but out of what i read, those who try it get rough idle and a code cats reversed. The car would not run well if sensors were not operating in the designated banks.
What if i reverse post cat sensors? Has anyone tried it?
I have 1 months to resolve the cat low efficiency codes before emissions are due. As alast resourt i bought a cat cleaner (sneak oil). I doubt it will work but $10 is worth a try before i make a purchase of new used cats. Thanks
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Old 12-02-2016, 12:04 AM   #27
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Not sure where this is all heading.

FYI, at WOT and usually under heavy load above 3500 RPM, the fuel management system is typically ignored because it cannot react fast enough to function in a complete fuel control feedback loop.

The problem could be fuel related, every one of these E46's should have a replacement fuel pump IMHO at this point in their life.

But with the P0420/P0430 codes, you may have restricted converters that are allowing only so much exhaust to escape before the back pressure builds up to a point that the airflow/fuel is not able to properly enter the cylinders due to the exhaust not being evacuate from the cylinders.

2 ways to confirm this.

1. Remove the Bank #1 Pre-cat O2 sensor and make a WOT run that would usually cause a loss of power and misfiring conditions. Compare O2 sensor installed to no O2 sensor installed.

2. Buy an exhaust back pressure gauge from Amazon for about $50 and install and measure the exhaust back pressure at idle, fast idle, cracking the throttle while stationary and then by possibly monitoring the gauge while driving if the hose is long enough.

Good luck.
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 12-03-2016, 05:55 PM   #28
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Hello everyone once again. I have an update on the issue.
As I posted earlier, I had a feel that fuel wasn't there when the car needed it, I believe this is the issue beyond the doubt.

The day I reported the problem here with misfiring after full throttle runs, I was mad and was racing the car all the way home. After the car came back and was no longer misfiring, back from another full throttle run, it raced fine again and was firing well and I no longer noticed any issues with it going to weak mode after hard accelerations. it actually pulled way harder than before. Starange, why? no answer.

Then the TID value that was noted previously to show 64, in the diagnostic mode Tid $01 went to 58 out of 58 and became green as of opposite to what it was before 64 out of 58 failed. Then the cat low efficiency codes were no longer pending. The hard code remained.

Today I went and got myself a new fuel filter, I bought it from Advanced Auto parts (Made in Germany stuff) despite if the shortage of fuel was in deed the problem I decided the car was due for a new filter for sure anyways.
(Just for ref BMW recommends it replaced every 15k miles) and mine was replaced 3-4 years ago with the fuel pump.
So I have installed the filter, which is also called "pressure regulator" (2 n 1?).

While I was there at it, I decided to try to test something, There are many threads out there when people ask to try to switch oxygen sensors around, so I tried switching the O2 sensors as someone suggested, (by the way you can not switch sensors wrong way and not see any codes pop up) Not sure why was it even suggested in every forum I read. Just proved that if you think you got a problem and you dont see a code "sensors were switched" dont try to switch them, you will waste time.

Having the new filer in.
Cleared the codes and burned the last drops of the fuel in the tank that contained the additive "sneak oil" (to help me pass the emissions). Filled up with fresh gas as was instructed and drove on the highway for about 15 miles or maybe more, i did not count but it was far, at 55-60mph. No codes, no pending no hard.
Then drove on streets for another 2 hours at different speeds, no codes again. The TID values , TID 01 became 43, after the fuel filter changed out of 58 allowed. That was a fat check mark right there.

Watched reediness monitors, so far everything is ready except EVAP and the Sec Air System. For the two I need a cold start.

Here is the link to diagnostics report
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m5w4ap831...gzDVPde3a?dl=0

I will post if codes return or when I pass. Thanks.

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Old 12-03-2016, 11:31 PM   #29
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Not liking what I am seeing in the Diagnostic Report.

Not sure I would be calling victory yet.

See these values from the Diagnostic Report

Mass air flow rate 3.22 g/s - Typical value around 3.8-4.2 g/s
Calculated load value 1.57% - Typical value around 10%
Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 -15.62 % - Typical values +/- 10%
Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 19.53 % - Typical values 0% to +3%
Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2 -14.06 % - Typical values +/- 10%
Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2 22.66 % - Typical values 0% to +3%

Not sure under what conditions and when the Diagnostic Report was run, but with these kind of Fuel Trims if they do not get back in range, you will be triggering codes very soon.

In general the MAF value appears low and the Fuel Trims indicate the engine is still running Lean.

While replacing the fuel filter is good PM, it is not likely going to solve all your problems. Fuel filter replacement is not 15k miles, it is 90k miles as I recall.

As for the O2 sensors being connected wrong, they can be connected wrong and not trigger any codes, I have seen this many times. Not sure what you did and what codes were triggered, but randomly swapping the O2 sensor connections is not a 100% sure way to determine if the senors are connected properly.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 12-04-2016, 01:21 AM   #30
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No
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Not liking what I am seeing in the Diagnostic Report.

Not sure I would be calling victory yet.

See these values from the Diagnostic Report

Mass air flow rate 3.22 g/s - Typical value around 3.8-4.2 g/s
Calculated load value 1.57% - Typical value around 10%
Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 -15.62 % - Typical values +/- 10%
Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 19.53 % - Typical values 0% to +3%
Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2 -14.06 % - Typical values +/- 10%
Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2 22.66 % - Typical values 0% to +3%

Not sure under what conditions and when the Diagnostic Report was run, but with these kind of Fuel Trims if they do not get back in range, you will be triggering codes very soon.

In general the MAF value appears low and the Fuel Trims indicate the engine is still running Lean.

While replacing the fuel filter is good PM, it is not likely going to solve all your problems. Fuel filter replacement is not 15k miles, it is 90k miles as I recall.

As for the O2 sensors being connected wrong, they can be connected wrong and not trigger any codes, I have seen this many times. Not sure what you did and what codes were triggered, but randomly swapping the O2 sensor connections is not a 100% sure way to determine if the senors are connected properly.
I appreciate your help.
#1 none of adaptations were cleared.
I am ready for codes thrown soon.
I am just trying to get around the system before it happens..
My reasoning is based on the previous reaction times of the ses light and the ecu to the changes I make to see what helps and what doesn't do s#it.
It is truly the first whole day when i was able to test monitors to all ready without aby codes thrown.

The reason the MAF readings are low, we can only speculate, It was always low before the issue started, now this is a a Chinese MAF, but dont blame it right away until it fails, i got it based on the reviews from E46Fanatics, it is not an ebay product, the original Simens MAF is badly worn and f#ks with the car worse than if i make my own MAF out of what ever. Lol.
But the MAF readings were low at 3.0+/-.3 all the time even before Chinese maf.
The replacement made the car right and all monitors ready for under $60 but will the part last as long as Semens, most likely not..
Honestly i have no protection or any warranty that the system is going to adopt the readings as they were read by you. Lets see.

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Old 12-04-2016, 02:57 AM   #31
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jfoj knows his stuff. He's helped a lot of forum members diagnosed issues. I understand where you're coming from. I've been troubleshooting the same issue with my car. Did a smoke test and found a leak in the Disa valve and throttle body boot. I've been using a lot of his suggestions. I can now narrow it down to a faulty fuel pump or sensor.

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Old 12-04-2016, 06:58 PM   #32
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I want to give thank you to all and a special thanks to jFoj.
I passed emissions with all monitors set ready.
As jfoj said, looks like there still works needs to be done. I get the cat low efficiency codes come on and off still. I am puzzled by this and will need to study the issue. Most likely the cats are just bad at this point but the lean condition seems to be gone but i will still check if it returns. Who knows thise things never go away without giving a good fight. Thanks again. I will post.

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Old 05-05-2017, 09:47 PM   #33
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Hello everyone,
There is something that I want to share because there is something to learn even for the most experienced of us.

As a quick summary, last year this thread was about lean codes and poor performance issue. I had posted all of the links that by the way are still available for studies.

Having all the codes and a check engine light on, I absolutely had to find a way to pass the local emissions needed. I erased the codes and drove untill the monitors were set ready and then went straight to the emissions station and got a PASS. Obviously the issues were still there and I had gotten the SES light on the way back, but I had a pass for one more year.

THIS YEAR, I had time and means to experiment and wanted to put the end to the issues and I say "issues" on purpose.

At first I smoke tested the car and did not find any issues with leaks, I smoke tested it the second time and did not find any leaks.

Then I closely examined the crank vent system. And replaced one tube and the oil dip Oring as a preventative measure.

The issues were not solved despite all of the methods and advices used from e46fanatics and my own "throwing parts" method. That was the breaking point for me.

At this point I understood my own limits. I am good at bolting and unbolting parts , but I absolutely can't understand the complicated tunes BEYOUND PROFFICENT and maps to figure out the issues and had to hire PROS.

I had hired SoloMotorsports who specialize on BMWs (ONLY) in my area to tell me what in the world is going on with the damn car.

They said the car had a clogged catalytic converter at Bank 1 and a bad pre cat sensor at Bank 2.

That explains the embarrassing power loss! A constant misfire at Bank 1 and more.

THIS TIME, I had to put facts up front of me! I had 5 options to choose from.

#1 Do nothing and continue be miserable
#2 Buy BMW genuine headers with cats for the cost of a good car,
#3 Buy Aftermarket manifolds with catalytic converter
#4 Buy used ( most likely near the end of life expectancy ) OEM manifolds with OEM converters off the Ebay or junk yard.
OR #5 Buy Headers Catless!

I had a lot of time and research in my possession and it was what I think the best cost effective choose that I have made. I made a choice for the #5 Headers.

Why?

Really! Not to argue! There were only 2 main factors why.

#1 The OEM manifolds with brand new cats cost unreasonably too much, they cost more than even a hardcore green activist is wishing to spend.

#2 The aftermarket manifolds with Canadian cats cost 3 times less but according to all the reviews don't last too long and don't have good performance.

That was the big fat point.

I got the headers in from the ebay.
Obviously I have spent some time to coat them with the ceramic paint to reduce the heat in the engine bay.

(Honestly despite the ubsence of the stock heatchield of the stock manifold gasket, despite the hood is now getting twice as hot!
The engine it'sself is cooler because it is no longer powering the clogged cats and restricted ehaust manifolds. No more bottle neck effect! Period!

I also purchased the brand new Boosh pre cat sensors and hoped to solve the both issues, the restricted cat and bad sensors.

I got the whole system in with pain and days lost. I Pulled old headers with clogged cats out, installed the new headers twice (because of fitment issues) and still not done, the dmn flanges don't allign to the stock ehaust pipes flanges and the post cat sensor opening for the bank 2 is in the wrong location and needs to be welded on the opposite side of the pipe.
No I didn't get the 323 328 manifolds. It's called nothing more than Chinese universal manifolds.

Having all of this progress in. The car was loud but was runing awesome. It was really fast and felt powerful, HOWEVER the lean code is still there and I have no clue why. This is strange.




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Old 05-06-2017, 10:59 AM   #34
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So have you still not replaced that useless chinese ebay maf ? And got codes stil?
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Old 05-06-2017, 11:19 AM   #35
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Post Diagnostic Report with Freeze Frame data, this will be useful.

Also look into the Brake Booster as a leak that smoke testing usually will not reveal. There is a section on the brake booster in Section 8 - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:25 AM   #36
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I am pretty certain you havent solved the lean problem, but I understand the situation you are in. Many of us have faced these codes before - i have my own thread on the subject. And the tribal wisdom has become esoteric. Probably because of JFOJ and a few others we speak in OBDFusion and P codes, but my very good former mechanic scoffed at both.

So it would be easy to say that we as a group have succumbed to group think and that you and your mechanic can disregard.

Except that we here have a pattern-matching advantage that is pretty stunning. Unlike your mechanic, we only have e46s. And we see the same exact symptoms a lot. So you see regular repetitions of problems, ideas and resolutions. These patterns should be valuable to you.

You fuel trims are very high - incredibly common, so the group is telling you what we have seen. Knockoff MAF is a common pattern. It seems unlikely that your mechanic would have seen that pattern.

Brake booster and MAF, from my research, are very hard to test. Both are very strong contenders for contributing to your high fuel trims.

Last edited by Archbid; 05-07-2017 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 05-07-2017, 12:25 PM   #37
Landlorder
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They use platinum in genuine mafs. There is not going to be any platinum in your $30-50 chinese maf.
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:12 PM   #38
aleksankazakov
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Thank you all for truly valuable information.

Actually after the nice ehaust shop welded the ehaust I had reset the codes and now I have something else that concerns me. The lean codes did not come back but..
I get consistent p2098 and p2096 codes for post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1 and 2.

AGAIN LEAN! CAN I GET AT LEAST 1 ERROR NOT LEAN ONCE.?

I looked at the way the secondary post cat sensors read and find they read too low. Too lean as I get it works out, the lower the reading the leaner it senses.
When sitting at idle the sensors stay at 0.1 or 0.0 for too long. On the graph it is a straight line at 0.0 or as low as 0.1 for minutes straight and once driving the secondary sensors come more alive to 0.8 or 0.6 and fluctuate as should periodically freezing at same reading.

I will post more on this but it seems that the post cat sensors are just too far from the ehaust stream to read any data. (It is just my theory since I have 90 degree angled defoulers with extentions installed.

It is also seems that the SES triggered a lot faster at idle than if the car keeps driving. But that I need to verify again.

I actually swapped the secondary sensor cables to see the change. The other crossed way it only gets more errors than it is now so it is not reversed.

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Old 05-12-2017, 09:33 PM   #39
aleksankazakov
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This is an update and a final nail into the coffin of the issue.

The lean code p0174 is gone. Completely GONE!

The random misfiring is also gone.

All of the engine codes are gone.

The reasons for all of the issues were a clogged converter and bad pre cat sensors.

The P2098 and 2096 are also explained. I spent a week fighting them and found the reason.
The explanation for that is a simple oxygen leak in the ehaust near the sensor which can be from an extender like angle antifouler or "defouler" or such
Where it connects to the pipe. The sensors are so sensitive to oxygen that any little hairline gap will call them to alarm the post catalytic fuel trim to be too lean.
Yes I think the post cat sensors in later models equipped with fuel management features.

I had to use Tiger Exhaust patch to close the area where the 90-degree anti-foulers connected tight to the exhaust to stop the stupid error.
I Still get the codes sometimes and still look for solutions.
But the sensors are too sensitive to oxygen that is the reason this error comes up with headers or any other applications where parts meet each other.

Here is the link to the latest warm idle LOG. This was done 1 hr from the code reset so not all monitors set yet.
The engine was sitting idling for over 30 min and no P2098 and 2096 errors so far showed up. (the only codes I've seen in more than a week)
I like the direction it goes. I will post later.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ri81i4n5e...sCaICdYZa?dl=0

Last edited by aleksankazakov; 05-12-2017 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 05-19-2017, 09:35 PM   #40
aleksankazakov
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Hi everyone.

I am here to confirm and conclude that the car has been running great engine code free, all monitors were set ready and all things checked GREEN OK
Please see the link to the warm idle as Jfoj asked.
I know my MAF might read a bit low, but it is an original MAF and everything works great, the replica I had before is on my shelf stored for diagnostics purposes. )
The brand new BOSH sensors and new headers worked out amazing, even people who dont know anything about cars say "wow" this car is Breathing freely. Runs light and pleasing.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yhc54079g...fpWZqVTWa?dl=0
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bad cats, bad pre-cat sensor, cat fault code, lean codes, not the fuel pump, p0174

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