first time ever on a track, (im 16)
i got three runs in, man people really hate on this car.
1. 14.2 at 101 mph and a 2.4sec. 60'
2. 13.88 at 103mph and a 2.2sec. 60'
3. 13.87 at 105mph and a 2.2sec. 60'
the last run i got to race a tuned up svt cobra, it was pretty sick, ran a 13.0 but it was close and people said i was gaining on him like ****, people in the stands were like wtf is that. haha stupid hicks
im probably going back up tomorrow with some friends. any tips on how to get a good launch and get those 60 foot times down?? any other tips in general are welcome
thanks
first time ever on a track, (im 16)
i got three runs in, man people really hate on this car.
1. 14.2 at 101 mph and a 2.4sec. 60'
2. 13.88 at 103mph and a 2.2sec. 60'
3. 13.87 at 105mph and a 2.2sec. 60'
the last run i got to race a tuned up svt cobra, it was pretty sick, ran a 13.0 but it was close and people said i was gaining on him like ****, people in the stands were like wtf is that. haha stupid hicks
im probably going back up tomorrow with some friends. any tips on how to get a good launch and get those 60 foot times down?? any other tips in general are welcome
thanks
its been several years since i raced the SUPRA.I think i dropped the pressure to around 15 psi +or- .i was running 275 -35 -18 in the rears if i remember correctly?! Definatley better launches! Dont forget to lay some rubber down right before your turn comes-gotta heat em up!
first time ever on a track, (im 16)
i got three runs in, man people really hate on this car.
1. 14.2 at 101 mph and a 2.4sec. 60'
2. 13.88 at 103mph and a 2.2sec. 60'
3. 13.87 at 105mph and a 2.2sec. 60'
the last run i got to race a tuned up svt cobra, it was pretty sick, ran a 13.0 but it was close and people said i was gaining on him like ****, people in the stands were like wtf is that. haha stupid hicks
im probably going back up tomorrow with some friends. any tips on how to get a good launch and get those 60 foot times down?? any other tips in general are welcome
thanks
its been several years since i raced the SUPRA.I think i dropped the pressure to around 15 psi +or- .i was running 275 -35 -18 in the rears if i remember correctly?! Definatley better launches! Dont forget to lay some rubber down right before your turn comes-gotta heat em up!
Street tires are not designed to "bind" the way slicks do, which run much lower tire pressure and have much higher sidewalls. Dropping the pressure on your street tires actually worsens traction, and it's bad for the tires. Don't over or underinflate your street tires, especially if you have large rims and very lowe profile tires (like the 18's or 19's on your M3).
If you want to run faster without modding the car, the best things you can do are cut weight (i.e. running a quarter tank of gas), ice the intake (can make a big difference), and most importantly, practice. Launches, especially. Reaction times, launches, and shifts are critical. You could also get yourself a set of 16" rims with drag radials -- that would make a big difference in your launches. Trap speeds might go down slightly, but your times would improve.
its been several years since i raced the SUPRA.I think i dropped the pressure to around 15 psi +or- .i was running 275 -35 -18 in the rears if i remember correctly?! Definatley better launches! Dont forget to lay some rubber down right before your turn comes-gotta heat em up!
Street tires are not designed to "bind" the way slicks do, which run much lower tire pressure and have much higher sidewalls. Dropping the pressure on your street tires actually worsens traction, and it's bad for the tires. Don't over or underinflate your street tires, especially if you have large rims and very lowe profile tires (like the 18's or 19's on your M3).
If you want to run faster without modding the car, the best things you can do are cut weight (i.e. running a quarter tank of gas), ice the intake (can make a big difference), and most importantly, practice. Launches, especially. Reaction times, launches, and shifts are critical. You could also get yourself a set of smaller diameter rims with drag radials -- that would make a big difference in your launches. Trap speeds might go down slightly, but your times would improve.
EDIT: That posted twice. Moderators, feel free to delete the first one.
hey my car is bone stock.
i have factory 18's with pretty run down pilot sports in the back.
its a stick so the launches are pretty hard, my rt's were 1.0, .8, and .7
i was up at 75 and 80 drag way, its out in urbana i believe, right before fredrick. i want to go to MIR cuz the track is much nicer and a lot better people too.
Street tires are not designed to "bind" the way slicks do, which run much lower tire pressure and have much higher sidewalls. Dropping the pressure on your street tires actually worsens traction, and it's bad for the tires. Don't over or underinflate your street tires, especially if you have large rims and very lowe profile tires (like the 18's or 19's on your M3).
If you want to run faster without modding the car, the best things you can do are cut weight (i.e. running a quarter tank of gas), ice the intake (can make a big difference), and most importantly, practice. Launches, especially. Reaction times, launches, and shifts are critical. You could also get yourself a set of smaller diameter rims with drag radials -- that would make a big difference in your launches. Trap speeds might go down slightly, but your times would improve.
EDIT: That posted twice. Moderators, feel free to delete the first one.
Of course slicks are much better! You still can drop the pressure ,and it did make a difference in my launches- i am not a professional racer, raced once in awhile, Thats why at most tracks there is a air pumping station. So you can refill your tires after your done racing!
Of course slicks are much better! You still can drop the pressure ,and it did make a difference in my launches- i am not a professional racer, raced once in awhile, Thats why at most tracks there is a air pumping station. So you can refill your tires after your done racing!
It's still not recommended, it's bad for your tires, and it's worse for traction, not better. Ask a professional racer. Street tires are made to optimally perform at certain tire pressures. Lowering the pressure won't aid traction on dry pavement any more than it will in snow because the tire won't bind the way a slick does (which is designed for low pressure specifically for that reason). People always write into Click & Clack asking if lowering their tire pressure will aid traction in snow -- it does the opposite. Same is true for dry surfaces. Go grab a Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine, Hot Rod, or any magazine that caters to the dragstrip crowd. They address that issue in there constantly.
It's still not recommended, it's bad for your tires, and it's worse for traction, not better. Ask a professional racer. Street tires are made to optimally perform at certain tire pressures. Lowering the pressure won't aid traction on dry pavement any more than it will in snow because the tire won't bind the way a slick does (which is designed for low pressure specifically for that reason). People always write into Click & Clack asking if lowering their tire pressure will aid traction in snow -- it does the opposite. Same is true for dry surfaces. Go grab a Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine, Hot Rod, or any magazine that caters to the dragstrip crowd. They address that issue in there constantly.
now, with slicks that 105 mph is enough to put you in the 12's with a good launch. my 5.0 ran 12.6 at 106 on slicks with a 1.6 60' time. if you want to lower your ET by any significant amount, forget dropping weight or playing with your air pressure, just go get a set of the cheapest rims you can find which will clear your brakes and mount up some drag radials if your driving there, or slicks and just change tham at the strip, and watch your times drop...
now, with slicks that 105 mph is enough to put you in the 12's with a good launch. my 5.0 ran 12.6 at 106 on slicks with a 1.6 60' time. if you want to lower your ET by any significant amount, forget dropping weight or playing with your air pressure, just go get a set of the cheapest rims you can find which will clear your brakes and mount up some drag radials if your driving there, or slicks and just change tham at the strip, and watch your times drop...
Nice to see a fellow 5.0 owner. My last car was a Vortech supercharged GT convertible. Ran 12s on street tires and 11s on drag radials. I never put slicks on because I was afraid of shearing the $hitty stock axles. Ahhh, I wish I had that car still...
It's still not recommended, it's bad for your tires, and it's worse for traction, not better. Ask a professional racer. Street tires are made to optimally perform at certain tire pressures. Lowering the pressure won't aid traction on dry pavement any more than it will in snow because the tire won't bind the way a slick does (which is designed for low pressure specifically for that reason). People always write into Click & Clack asking if lowering their tire pressure will aid traction in snow -- it does the opposite. Same is true for dry surfaces. Go grab a Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords magazine, Hot Rod, or any magazine that caters to the dragstrip crowd. They address that issue in there constantly.
Spray NOS on your intercooler right before your race. Thus giving you more dense, cool air for your engine. ( being that your car is turbocharged of course)Excellant power!My 98 zx7 ninja had Ram air intake on it ! Awsome power on cool nights!!!!
are you having trouble with traction? your 60 ft times seam kinda slow espically if you have a stick they should at least be in the 1.8 range put a little extra air in your front tires and drop the rears pressure to about 20-18 psi and you should mark the rear tires with shoe polish on the rim and the tire to make shure the tire does not spin on the rim. it would be much better if you had some street slicks i recomend some from micky thompson if they make them for that big of a rim, and airing down the tires will help regardless if the dont "bind" like real slicks it makes a bigger contact surface by having less air more contact means more traction. good luck
and by the way unless you are planning to strip your car i would not bother with trying to drop weight it wont hurt but its not going to help much i think the gains are like 1 tenth of a second for every 100 pounds give or take
Very easy, it's exactly what it sounds like. It makes a huge difference on FI cars, but it'll help any car, especially on a hot day. Just stick a bag of ice on the intake manifold for like 20 minutes before you make a run. The intake will be ice cold, which will act like an intercooler for the incoming air. Colder air = denser air, which means more power.
Look around at some of the Mustangs and other cars at the track next time. The intake on a Mustang is very prominent, so plopping a bag of ice on it is easy. Plus a lot of them have added superchargers and stuff. I'd bet you'll see quite a few of them chilling out between runs "icing" the intake.
BTW, if you're going to do it, make sure you don't put the label side of the ice bag down on the hot intake -- it'll transfer the color off the bag label onto the intake.
one thing I cant stand when I go to the track is all those people who strip weight from their car, like the car seats, and remove a headlight for some cold air rushing. Then they go brag about how fast their car is in the quarter, and the reality is, in everyday driving with all that sh#t back on, it's not as fast as they claim.....
Very easy, it's exactly what it sounds like. It makes a huge difference on FI cars, but it'll help any car, especially on a hot day. Just stick a bag of ice on the intake manifold for like 20 minutes before you make a run. The intake will be ice cold, which will act like an intercooler for the incoming air. Colder air = denser air, which means more power.
Look around at some of the Mustangs and other cars at the track next time. The intake on a Mustang is very prominent, so plopping a bag of ice on it is easy. Plus a lot of them have added superchargers and stuff. I'd bet you'll see quite a few of them chilling out between runs "icing" the intake.
BTW, if you're going to do it, make sure you don't put the label side of the ice bag down on the hot intake -- it'll transfer the color off the bag label onto the intake.
heh, thats pretty cool (no pun intended!) I never heard of anyone doing that, but it does sound like a good way to increase power. Now, how much of a change would be expected if you use liquid nitrogen instead of ice to cool it? That stuff is really cheap (like $1/liter) and if you can find a safe way to use it to cool the intake, it seems like it'll make quite a bit of difference, given of course that you dont shatter something important in the process...
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
E46 Fanatics Forum
17.9M posts
592.5K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to BMW E46, E90, and F30 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about M performance, turbo kits, engine swaps, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!