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Old 08-12-2013, 05:26 AM   #21
Scott_B
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Took me some time and entire can of carb/choke cleaner to get all sludge form inside there (blue arrow) i believe it would have blocked proper oil flow unless i did it.


You can see housing of oil filter here


Old oil is not so bad at second thought
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:26 AM   #22
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So i either run that oil for a week and then swap it or just use quart of transmission fluid and idle for hour and then change (decent advice from auto zone guy). However i did same thing in my other car and new oil turned dark after about week anyway.


Even if your oil turns dark the minute you put it in the car, not likely to happen with a 7 quart oil sump, it will not turn black. Turning dark and turning black are really 2 different things. It will only start to turn color as the crap is dissolved and even then oil will not quickly clean the engine up by itself. Even if the oil turnes dark, the filters job is to remove particles in suspension and some of the carbon and other particles are too small for the filter to actually remove.

The Auto Zone guy is no mechanic, this is why he works at Auto Zone. I realize you are getting a lot of info and you have no idea who is on the other side of your computer giving you advice, but trust me, transmission fluid is not the answer to your problem and it will not solve anything in 1 hour.

You should use SeaFoam and it will take 2500+ miles to make any headway.

SeaFoam is not a harsh solvent and it is only like a pint out of 7 quarts of your oil.

You likely will want to run SeaFoam for the next 3-4 oil changes depending on how the engine starts to clean up.

If you read the SeaFoam site or can, it clearly states you can add it to the engine oil for crankcase clean up.

"Clean Engine Sludge From The Crankcase - To clean built-up oil residues and contamination from the crank case, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of engine oil. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy residues and suspend contaminants for easy removal. Monitor oil for color and clarity and change oil and replace filter when oil looks dirty."

A full can is slightly higher concentration for 7 qts of oil, I have used a full can in 5 quarts of oil without any negative side effects.

Choose who you want to listen to and what you want to do, but I have used SeaFoam a number of times in neglected engines, even on vehicles that I personally have purchased and driven. I have had no negative side effects. Suggest you ask anyone that says not to use it if they have actually used it and had any problems! I am not SeaFoam fanboy, it just happened to be a product that I have used a number of times after researching what was on the market, what was readily available and what I choose to use. Thinking you will get somewhere with a quart of transmission fluid in 1 hour is nothing short of foolish.

The best case is to maintain the vehicle and not have to use any crankcase additives, but at times there are cases of neglected engines that will require it.

To all the nay sayers, engines are actually a bit more forgiving that you might think. Would I prefer a properly maintained engine, absolutely, but I have also had to deal with neglected engines and I have put a lot of miles on them during and after crankcase cleaning with SeaFoam.
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Last edited by jfoj; 08-12-2013 at 07:30 AM.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:27 AM   #23
Yewzer B Lewzer
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Gunk in oil filter cap.

Dude if you listen to the AutoZone guy instead of jfoj, your judgement is questionable.

jfoj doesn't guess at this stuff, he has experience to back it up. He is a top contributor to this forum.

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Old 08-12-2013, 09:08 AM   #24
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[QUOTE=Yewzer B Lewzer;15634767]Dude if you listen to the AutoZone guy instead of jfoj, your judgement is questionable.

jfoj doesn't guess at this stuff, he has experience to back it up. He is a top contributor to this forum.

I agree with YBL, jfoj's info is always correct, knowledgeable and helpful.
Forget what the Auto Zone guy said and listen to jfoj's advice.
If you search his posts, you will find a wealth of info.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:27 AM   #25
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I wonder what BMW recommends.

Be careful taking advice from anyone who recommends an fuel or oil additive.
Below is an actual review of Seafoam written on a product website.
Decide for yourself if the author of it is a guru or a bonehead.

Almost doubled my gas mileage!
I was recommended this product.
I did a mileage test. With Out Sea Foam it took 7 gallons to travel 81 miles,
then I added this product.
The same 81 miles took 4.2 gallons. Great Product !!


If you find yourself owning any car with a completely sludged up motor,
sell the car.


.

Last edited by Mr Podman; 08-12-2013 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:20 AM   #26
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Gunk in oil filter cap.

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I wonder what BMW recommends.
If all BMW services are done on-time and things like failed thermostats are repaired promptly, the sludge condition will not happen. I would expect no recommendation on the topic at all from BMW.


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Old 08-12-2013, 10:41 AM   #27
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I have no done any oil changes, but wife done one at some shop no idea how many miles ago.
I actually realized just now that it could be just plastic issue i have as aluminum oil filter housing was clean like new. I actually had exact same problem with my other car the choke is made out of plastic and when i pulled it off i seen same sludge on inner side of choke and aluminum engine block head was clean (not like oil supposed to go there normally, probably had PCV problem).

I went ahead and bought cheap ($4 per quart) full synthetic oil (Auto Zone) brand just to flush engine of remains of old oil i dont want new expensive oil to turn black righ after i put it in.

So i either run that oil for a week and then swap it or just use quart of transmission fluid and idle for hour and then change (decent advice from auto zone guy). However i did same thing in my other car and new oil turned dark after about week anyway.


P.S. I don't have torque wrench so i don't want to take valve cover off, i don't have garage and there's dust flying on the parking lot of apartment complex where i work on it. Even if take cover off should i use brush to clean it or what, that sludge was hard as hell and need some chemical to clean up properly, so i'd rather use engine flush and take oil pan cover off in case it clogs oil pump.
You plan to take the oil pan cover off? I hope you know that's about a 12-hour job (especially given you've never done it) and requires special tools, access, and procedures.

I'd do what JFOJ says, run seafoam in it and go from there. You need to change the valve cover gasket anyway so order the parts and have a peak inside. Take a pic and post it. Then you can have an idea of what's going on.

bmaparts in Glendale is the best, fastest, and cheapest place to get parts from. please write me a check cause i've just saved you thousands of dollars.
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:34 AM   #28
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Single biggest contributor to oil contamination is short drives and even worse is short drives in colder climates and the absolute worst case is short drives in colder climates with a soft thermostat and an engine that does not run hot enough.

At least BMW's DME algorithm for thermostat/low engine temperature is fairly aggressive, this is the classic P0128 code you typically see often. VW had MAJOR issues with primarily the 1.8 Turbo engines. VW had a VERY loose algorithm for their thermostat/low engine temperature AND they did not even have a temperature gauge. Many of these 1.8t engines were driving 30-50F too cold during the colder months and this caused a lot of oil contamination. The oil pick up was also very small in diameter and the screen would get restricted with sandy like carbon particles.

VW bought a lot of engines, but ONLY if all maintenance was performed at the dealer and 100% documented. Then they actually changed the oil standard for the engines 4-5 years down the path!

Attached is a picture of a VW 1.8T oil pickup. It is a bit dirty on the outside as it was sitting around for a while, but you can see the discoloration and if you look at the pickup screen you will see how is it restricted. The orange in the pickup is the plastic oil dipstick tube that get brittle with the high under hood heat, breaks up and fall down the dipstick tube!

The other picture is a "classic" BMW mayo condition during the Winter months when the car is used for repeated short drives. Anything that lives in the upper half of the US or in Canada needs to check their oil fill cap at every fill up once the temps get below 70F on a regular basis. If you have the Mayo problem, you have to manage it. Make sure you do not make numerous short trips. Make sure your engine is running at the proper temperature and you may even need to change the engine oil during the Winter months more often to get the contamination out of the crankcase. The best management for Mayo is a good long highway cruise of at least 30-45 minutes or more. Keep in mind with the large oil sump for these engines, the engine oil takes about 3 times longer to come up to temperature as compared to the coolant temperature. Typically this may be around 25-30 minutes in the colder months.

Also keep an eye on the engine oil color, if it starts to get too dark between changes, be safe, change the oil as you may have a situaiton where the "normal" oil change interval is not good enough for the current driving conditions.

Oil changes are cheaper and easier than major engine repairs, so keep up with the engine maintenance, check under the oil fill cap, look and smell your engine oil when checking the oil. Wise to check the oil at least every 3rd fill up (best to do it every 2nd fill up), which for most of us will be approximately 900-1000 miles. Most engines will no use more than 1 quart of oil within 1000 miles, but some engines may use as much as 1 quart per 500 miles, which would be typically every 2nd fill up.

I mentioned maintenance, Mango's ears are burning now!!
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:09 PM   #29
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I think as soon as temp needle in the middle means it reached temperature. No matter if you drive 2 miles a day, i have another car that i drive only to work and back for more than year without this thing happening to it.
Why you need to go on highway in winter is to have overall all rubber seals gaskets and other parts all over car body warm so they don't crust and break/leak, however in california its not as bad because never too cold.
That is not true.

Just because the needle makes it to the middle does not mean the engine has warmed up completely. It only means the coolant has reached 195-ish degrees. The oil may or may not be warm enough for any water vapors to cook off. This is the warm up temp that is more important.

You have two temps, the needle tells you what the condition of the coolant is, but the oil is not monitored, but the oil temp can be problematic if the temp is not high enough long enough to cook out the water vapors, then when the oil cools again then there is more vapor that gets trapped in the oil, and the process just builds upon itself. One must allow the engine temp to come up more than just the short time it takes for the needle to get to the middle. It takes a couple of minutes for the needle to make mid-scale, but it takes several miles for the engine to actually warm up enough to cook off the water vapors that are naturally occurring. If one is making frequent trips of 5 minutes, then the engine oil will look like what the OP posted.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:55 AM   #30
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I actually use my own head. I just likes autozone guy advice to use ATF fluid instead of engine flush as that's it.

I got to change antifreeze i'll write some thing later. In overall you still think i need to use seafoam or i overemphasized the problem with sludge?
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:06 AM   #31
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i would still do the seafoam on a new-to-you car regardless of what you saw in the oil.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:25 AM   #32
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i kind of having some issues now after i swapped oil and filter. car starts normally and works for 3 seconds, then rpm jump between 700-900 and its shaking, even if i rev it dies in 3 seconds, and when it dies it gives some kind of loud clap. Strange because about 3 month ago it was working fine when given rev'd a bit.

Also oil pressure lamp comes on in 3 seconds after starting i wonder why, could it be that the fuel filter is new and "dry" (has air pocket) and just need to work for a bit and due to fact that it dont work for more than 5 seconds it never fills it up, if that's true then i dont think its good idea to rev much without proper oil pressure.

Oki dok. do i put all sea foam in this temporary oil and run for week.

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Old 08-13-2013, 03:48 AM   #33
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2.5 bottles Auto-Rx Plus, clean non ester oil, new filter, and run it 5,000 miles with as many long runs as possible (oil MUST be hot for it to work).
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:50 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Scott_B View Post
i kind of having some issues now after i swapped oil and filter. car starts normally and works for 3 seconds, then rpm jump between 700-900 and its shaking, even if i rev it dies in 3 seconds, and when it dies it gives some kind of loud clap. Strange because about 3 month ago it was working fine when given rev'd a bit.

Also oil pressure lamp comes on in 3 seconds after starting i wonder why, could it be that the fuel filter is new and "dry" (has air pocket) and just need to work for a bit and due to fact that it dont work for more than 5 seconds it never fills it up, if that's true then i dont think its good idea to rev much without proper oil pressure.

Oki dok. do i put all sea foam in this temporary oil and run for week.
you have a vacuum leak. this is why i tell EVERYONE to replace th e vacuum stuff

If your EYES are reading this and you haven't done any vacuum maintenance, DO IT!
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:38 PM   #35
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you have a vacuum leak. this is why i tell EVERYONE to replace th e vacuum stuff

If your EYES are reading this and you haven't done any vacuum maintenance, DO IT!
What exactly you mean by vacuum maintenance find a leak and seal it?

I have this stupid sport filter installed, could it be that it pushes too much air trough?!



And there's also seem to be leak in valve cover, but guess thats not related.

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Old 08-13-2013, 12:47 PM   #36
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What exactly you mean by vacuum maintenance find a leak and seal it?
I mean replace your vacuum lines/ccv system.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:53 PM   #37
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I mean replace your vacuum lines/ccv system.
Blah blah blah
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:04 PM   #38
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Gunk in oil filter cap.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott_B View Post

And there's also seem to be leak in valve cover, but guess thats not related.
Yes this could be part of the problem.

Edit: although I would expect to see oil there if it was leaking.



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Old 08-13-2013, 01:06 PM   #39
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:22 PM   #40
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ScottB,

If you would just take a few minutes and slow down and think things through you would likely be in a much better situation.

If you were to read the links below in my signature and Mango's signature (his is a bit less obvious, look under his picture in his signature) you would likely learn more than you care to.

With the level of some of these issues and links, you may need to read them 2-3 times before some of the basics start to settle in.

Most of it is really common sense, but as they say it ain't so common.

E46 BMW's have VERY predictable problems. If you know what the problems are and where to locate them, you do not need any fancy software or scan tools, just hands, eyes and an open mind.

You will find most of the plastic and rubber under the hood of a 8+ year old BMW is in need of replacement. Also if monkeys have been under the hood, they likely have made matters worse, broken things, removed things or connector wires and hoses incorrectly.

Almost every major problem car on this forum has had the CEL covered or ripped out and underlying problems have been present for sometimes YEARS.

With a bit of hard work, listening, checking and replacement most of these cars can be put back into the proper running form that they are capable of.

It's really sad to see what happens to these cars at times, nothing phases me any more. Sometimes foolishness, inexperience or just plain stupidity takes over!

Take for instance your cone air filter, on these cars it is not needed and usually causes more problems with the intake air path and over stresses the dry rotted intake boots.

Hope you can take some times and read the links as you will learn FAR more than you ever wanted to about these cars.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose fan switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299

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