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Gun Talk
Are you a gun fanatic as well? If so, you'll want to talk to other owners about what you own in this forum.

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Old 08-19-2013, 06:27 PM   #21
Reedo302
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If you're using a red dot type sight, FOV is irrelevant if you're using it correctly with binocular vision. When the optic is farther forward, the optic/reticle housing will disappear more easily. When it's close-up, it gives your brain the impression that you're looking through a tunnel. For reflex type optics like above that are projected onto panes of glass, the closer the glass is to your eye, the more reflection, flare and distortion you will see from the actual glass pane itself.

Was it last year that some girl came on here trash talking us for mounting our optics forward? Some girl who I assume was a FOBbit posted like three times on here and talked some smack, we called her on her statements and made her look foolish, and she disappeared. Anywho, she was very anti-forward mounting of optics and it was because she had the wrong mindset about how they're meant to be used. It seems like it would not require explanation or training to use a simple red dot reticle, but in reality it is needed. It's mainly just time spent practicing using both eyes (binocular vision).

Food for thought. Do whatever you want.
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Old 08-19-2013, 10:53 PM   #22
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I've never seen anyone worried about field of view on a plinker...if its anything more serious for you the addition of a good set of backups is probably advisable.

I'm a fan of the standard front sight post, It's bullet proof.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:02 AM   #23
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AR build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reedo302 View Post
If you're using a red dot type sight, FOV is irrelevant if you're using it correctly with binocular vision. When the optic is farther forward, the optic/reticle housing will disappear more easily. When it's close-up, it gives your brain the impression that you're looking through a tunnel. For reflex type optics like above that are projected onto panes of glass, the closer the glass is to your eye, the more reflection, flare and distortion you will see from the actual glass pane itself.

Was it last year that some girl came on here trash talking us for mounting our optics forward? Some girl who I assume was a FOBbit posted like three times on here and talked some smack, we called her on her statements and made her look foolish, and she disappeared. Anywho, she was very anti-forward mounting of optics and it was because she had the wrong mindset about how they're meant to be used. It seems like it would not require explanation or training to use a simple red dot reticle, but in reality it is needed. It's mainly just time spent practicing using both eyes (binocular vision).

Food for thought. Do whatever you want.
I just moved it around and found that position to work best for me with that sight.

Returned it and got another better optic, which is much better all the way forward. Not saying mounting it in the rear is the right or mounting it up front is wrong. Not talking sh!t. He'll ill take any advise I can. New (ish) to the AR's.

Here's some pics of the gun as it sits now. Need to get some quad rails and iron sights next. Trying to keep it as lightweight as possible (very light already which I love about this gun)

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Old 08-20-2013, 04:45 PM   #24
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I've got the 3x flip magnifier for that optic at work.
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Old 08-20-2013, 05:49 PM   #25
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which way were you thinking of going on the rail? drop in? FF?
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:44 PM   #26
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which way were you thinking of going on the rail? drop in? FF?
May just go with magpul for now. But I'd like to go with a nice FF rail. Idk if it will clear the gas block i have though...
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:52 PM   #27
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It will if you get a carbine length rail, or else one with a FSP cutout.
Be aware that those gas blocks are cast and may leak. Just in case you have any cycling issues. Also would recommend that you invest in an H2 buffer.
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Old 08-21-2013, 12:10 AM   #28
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It will if you get a carbine length rail, or else one with a FSP cutout.
Be aware that those gas blocks are cast and may leak. Just in case you have any cycling issues. Also would recommend that you invest in an H2 buffer.
Do you think this AR I built is decent going with the dpms upper? Prices are still inflated everywhere and parts are sold out for what I really wanted to build the upper, so I just said fvck it this will do for now...I've heard things good and bad about DPMS but for the price I was like fvck it. My upper receiver looks great, everything is straight and doesn't look half assed (like some pics you've posted in the general AR chat thread) feed ramps are cut well and extend low. The gas key ill need to check the torque on, may have it re-staked if needed as a precaution as I've heard a lot of manufacturers do it improperly.

As for the buffer, I think the complete parts kit I got came with an upgraded buffer...but I'll look into the one you mentioned.

Ill take any suggestions for this gun as possible, just want something that will go bang every time lol..



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Old 08-21-2013, 01:47 AM   #29
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DPMS is a hobby grade rifle. Within that realm, there are better options. That said, as long as you are realistic about what the rifle can do, it SHOULD be fine. Hobby type rifles are the ones that you bring to the local range and shoot off 60 or 70 rounds, take it home, clean it and stick it in the case until next month when you do the same thing. If you are expecting reliable performance under stressful conditions like a multi-day carbine course, there is a high likelihood of disappointment on the horizon. You may have a rifle that is fine, or you might not. It's the law of averages. With top tier companies like BCM or LMT, you may only get one bad rifle in every 5,000 or more. Upwards of half of all DPMS rifles have some kind of issue. It's minor things ranging from a poorly fitted gas block or improperly staked gas key, all the way up to an out-of-spec chamber or an unchromed BCG interior.

My suggestion would be to get a bunch of 5.56. Actual 5.56 like Federal XM193/855 or Black Hills, Magtech, Winchester (not Q3131A), or other decent quality brand . Shoot it through the rifle and see if it will feed it. Most DPMS barrels that are stamped as 5.56 are actually .223.
When it comes time to get a railed handguard, get a free float handguard, and replace the gas block with a quality low-profile one.
The railed gasblock you have may or may not be same plane, meaning that it may not be even with the upper receiver rail. Flip the upper receiver upside down onto a hard flat smooth surface and push down so that the whole rail is pressing against the surface. Look at the gas block rail and see if it's solidly in contact, or if there's daylight.
Also, the railed gas block is the most worthless piece of kit IMO. You can't use polymer backup sights. You need metal sights, and when you are shooting, expect the heat from the gas block to transfer to the sights.

In general, buying components right now is hinky. Companies are pumping stuff out like mad to meet demand, and many companies let their QC go to shit. It happened in 2008, and it's happening now. Just something to be aware of and think about.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:31 AM   #30
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Do you think this AR I built is decent going with the dpms upper? Prices are still inflated everywhere and parts are sold out for what I really wanted to build the upper, so I just said fvck it this will do for now...I've heard things good and bad about DPMS but for the price I was like fvck it. My upper receiver looks great, everything is straight and doesn't look half assed (like some pics you've posted in the general AR chat thread) feed ramps are cut well and extend low. The gas key ill need to check the torque on, may have it re-staked if needed as a precaution as I've heard a lot of manufacturers do it improperly.

As for the buffer, I think the complete parts kit I got came with an upgraded buffer...but I'll look into the one you mentioned.

Ill take any suggestions for this gun as possible, just want something that will go bang every time lol..



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If your life will ever depend on this AR functioning, no it is not a decent AR. If it is a range toy that you can put away and fix at a later time when or if it fails to go "bang" then it's fine.

Your lower receiver and parts are good. However, I would really suggest that you don't put any more cash into the upper. Save that cash and purchase a quality mid-tier upper (FYI - PSA has complete upper sales every couple of weeks, just sign up for their email list) that already has the handguard that you want installed.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:41 AM   #31
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As for the buffer, I think the complete parts kit I got came with an upgraded buffer...but I'll look into the one you mentioned.
If you bought the MOE Lower Build Kit from PSA, it comes with a carbine buffer. If you keep that upper, you will defintely want to pick up an H2.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:04 PM   #32
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However, I would really suggest that you don't put any more cash into the upper. Save that cash and purchase a quality mid-tier upper
^ This is probably the best advice for your upper.

The reason for the H2 buffer is because DPMS over-gasses their uppers, so you need something to slow the rifle down so that it doesn't get beat up or malfunction.
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Old 08-22-2013, 12:40 PM   #33
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Called the gun store and they said they'd be cool with me returning the upper for something else.

Any suggestions for a quality upper that wont break the bank? I'm not going to war here. I just want reliability and a good warranty if something does fail.

Most of the time it will be seeing 200 rounds from 25-200 yards every weekend.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:37 PM   #34
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Called the gun store and they said they'd be cool with me returning the upper for something else.

Any suggestions for a quality upper that wont break the bank? I'm not going to war here. I just want reliability and a good warranty if something does fail.

Most of the time it will be seeing 200 rounds from 25-200 yards every weekend.
If you are limited to what your LGS sells, then it's best to tell us what brands they sell in order to steer you in the right direction. If you can return it for a full refund, then that expands your selection. Off the top of my head, I would say Smith and Wesson, Spikes, and PSA are probably the front runners due to availablity. PSA is certainly the most available.
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Old 08-22-2013, 01:55 PM   #35
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PSA is sold out of pretty much everything they carry, just checked the website.
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:17 PM   #36
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What kinds of uppers do they sell?
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:23 PM   #37
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What kinds of uppers do they sell?
Take your pick

http://www.jaxgreenacres.com/semi-au...8_123_128.html

They only have complete rifles, but will pull the upper off of them.
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:01 PM   #38
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PSA is sold out of pretty much everything they carry, just checked the website.
Like I said in an earlier post, sign up for their email notifications. They just sent one out this morning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redline View Post
Take your pick

http://www.jaxgreenacres.com/semi-au...8_123_128.html

They only have complete rifles, but will pull the upper off of them.
Assuming you live in Jacksonville so there are no compliance issues? There is a lot of "out of stock" listed on this website too. Does it need to be in-stock for you to get it?
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:08 PM   #39
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Like I said in an earlier post, sign up for their email notifications. They just sent one out this morning.



Assuming you live in Jacksonville so there are no compliance issues? There is a lot of "out of stock" listed on this website too. Does it need to be in-stock for you to get it?
What compliance issues? And it has to be in stock to exchange it.
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Old 08-22-2013, 08:31 PM   #40
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Just for the hell of it here's some pics of the dpms upper. What do you think?

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