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Old 08-30-2013, 01:18 PM   #21
bee-em-dougle-u
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Brake fluid should be changed every two years (at least) for more reasons than looking "dirty" or "dark."

You should change the brake fluid in your Z3. It needs it-- 5x over (at least)

I have more ammo to this and will release it nicely if you are genuinely interested. But if not, I will point out the fact that you spelled "brakes" wrong at least 4 or 5 times
Geez, give the guy a brake!
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:19 PM   #22
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That moisture also is a big contributor to brake caliper failure. Moisture=rust= stuck caliper pistons. I change mine every other year or before & after any track event. A pressure bleeder makes it really easy. As does different color fluids. ATE blue one change, gold the next.
Except the blue one was just recalled, banned, and all sales have been stopped...unless you have a stash

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Old 08-30-2013, 01:20 PM   #23
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That moisture also is a big contributor to brake caliper failure. Moisture=rust= stuck caliper pistons. I change mine every other year or before & after any track event. A pressure bleeder makes it really easy. As does different color fluids. ATE blue one change, gold the next.
Too bad it's all gold from now on =(

I have half a can of ATE blue in my closet (unused of course). What's your take on using this in the future? Bottle is tightly capped. Some people say don't use brake fluid that's been sitting in a container.. but then what's the difference between that and the brake fluid sitting in your car's reservoir? Wonder if moisture can permeate a steel can that is tightly closed?

i just hate to have that precious blue (now extinct) to go to waste =/
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:30 PM   #24
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Pitch it.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:47 PM   #25
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Except the blue one was just recalled, banned, and all sales have been stopped...unless you have a stash
Wow. Didn't know there was recall on ATE blue due to color restriction? lol
It was so much easier switching between blue and gold.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:48 PM   #26
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i'd rather use that money towards a motive power bleeder.

oh wait. i did

Amazon.com - Motive European Brake Bleeder
Thanks. I need one of these. Will you post a source for the fitting that connects the bleeder to the brake fluid reservoir?

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The process transfers pad material to the rotor and helps prevent glazed pads.
Clarification: The process is that the pads (softer material) wear into the rotor (harder material), losing material in the process. The pad material does not stay on the rotor, it flies off by centrifugal force or is wiped off by the pad.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:53 PM   #27
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Thanks. I need one of these. Will you post a source for the fitting that connects the bleeder to the brake fluid reservoir?



Clarification: The process is that the pads (softer material) wear into the rotor (harder material), losing material in the process. The pad material does not stay on the rotor, it flies off by centrifugal force or is wiped off by the pad.
... and make my shiny rims look like crap!
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:53 PM   #28
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Thanks. I need one of these. Will you post a source for the fitting that connects the bleeder to the brake fluid reservoir?



Clarification: The process is that the pads (softer material) wear into the rotor (harder material), losing material in the process. The pad material does not stay on the rotor, it flies off by centrifugal force or is wiped off by the pad.
It's for european cars. It should come w/ the adapter. not sure why it isnt pictured. what makes it "european" is the adapter.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:54 PM   #29
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Clarification: The process is that the pads (softer material) wear into the rotor (harder material), losing material in the process. The pad material does not stay on the rotor, it flies off by centrifugal force or is wiped off by the pad.


http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...ake-pad-bed-in
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:03 PM   #30
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Motive incorrectly markets their equipment. What they sell is not a power bleeder, it is a pressure bleeder.

This is what a power bleeder looks like: http://www.toolsource.com/electronic...-p-101418.html

It is what I use and recommend the people who really want to flush their system to use. The Motive tool definitely works though, just not in the same way.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:09 PM   #31
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Motive incorrectly markets their equipment. What they sell is not a power bleeder, it is a pressure bleeder.

This is what a power bleeder looks like: http://www.toolsource.com/electronic...-p-101418.html

It is what I use and recommend the people who really want to flush their system to use. The Motive tool definitely works though, just not in the same way.
eh i'm pretty sure anyone who is shopping for a power bleeder knows exactly what they are getting into and aren't incorrectly assuming it's a $2,000 commercial machine
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:14 PM   #32
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I understand that, but from the 2nd post in this thread it was almost suggested that you cannot flush the brake fluid system, but in fact you can if you have access to the equipment I posted. He was most likely posting in regard to use of the Motive pressure bleeder.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:15 PM   #33
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Beasted is correct. The thing that Motive sells for $50 or that you can make yourself out of a $9 garden sprayer is properly called a pressure bleeder.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:19 PM   #34
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I understand that, but from the 2nd post in this thread it was almost suggested that you cannot flush the brake fluid system, but in fact you can if you have access to the equipment I posted. He was most likely posting in regard to use of the Motive pressure bleeder.
When people say "flush" (especially noobies who aren't too familiar with cars), they really mean replacing all the fluid. It's a stupid word that I see being used in stupid ways all the time. That's why I hate that word because people don't know how to use it and it's usually used unnecessarily.

Replacing the fluid works fine for me either done using a helper or a pressure bleeder. That's the way a typical brake fluid replacement is done as it is all that's necessary. I imagine any $2,000 machine would just do it a bit faster. Though at many shops I see them either gravity bleeding (time) or using a pressure bleeder similar to Motive if not the same
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:24 PM   #35
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When people say "flush" (especially noobies who aren't too familiar with cars), they really mean replacing all the fluid. It's a stupid word that I see being used in stupid ways all the time. That's why I hate that word because people don't know how to use it and it's usually used unnecessarily.

Replacing the fluid works fine for me either done using a helper or a pressure bleeder. That's the way a typical brake fluid replacement is done as it is all that's necessary. I imagine any $2,000 machine would just do it a bit faster. Though at many shops I see them either gravity bleeding (time) or using a pressure bleeder similar to Motive if not the same
Ahh, okay, I understand you now.

I guess flushing with the power bleeder is only really necessary if you are replacing the ABS pump anyway. For general brake fluid maintenance the pressure bleeder from Motive will work just fine.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:38 PM   #36
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I have been changing breaks for many years for my cars. You do not have to bleed or bed. You should turn the rotors though (I guess it is bedding). Autozone, Pepboys, O'riley all do that for about $15 a rotor. Turning rotors will improve breaking a tiny bit and also make sure that the breaks do not squeal. You have to bleed only if you disconnected the break line for some reason. Flushing fluid is necessary if visually looks bad (dark or dirty), if it looks like new fluid visually, it is most likely fine. Most manufacturers recommend to flush every 2-years, but that assumes severe climate and extreme conditions. But I guess it is cheap and easy enough to do so if it makes you feel better, do it. I live in southern California which is as far from severe climate as it gets. My 1997 Z3 had the same break fluid since about 2004 (when it was replaced for no apparent reason) and it still has the right color and I had never had to top it off... but again we have neither temp fluctuations here nor excessive humidity conditions. I did replace rotors on it though as these do wear.
It's BRAKES. Sheesh!
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:47 PM   #37
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It's BRAKES. Sheesh!
It's killing me too.
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:53 PM   #38
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Except the blue one was just recalled, banned, and all sales have been stopped...unless you have a stash
Well we do have over 500 of them still in stock, and we're still selling it. The blue has never been DOT approved for street use so we were a little surprised when it all of a sudden a decision was made to stop selling it in the US. We're honestly not sure what the future will bring on it. No US distributors are going to have it for sure. But we actually buy it in Germany and import it ourselves. As long as we can get it through customs we'll still have it.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:19 PM   #39
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When people say "flush" (especially noobies who aren't too familiar with cars), they really mean replacing all the fluid. It's a stupid word that I see being used in stupid ways all the time. That's why I hate that word because people don't know how to use it and it's usually used unnecessarily.
Flush has many very different meanings depending on the context of usage. When used in the context of automotive service, I think the generally accepted definition is, flushing removes an existing fluid from a system by means of forcing new fluid into the system through a pressurized feed.

IMO it's really nit picking. Flushing is the process through which fluid replacement is achieved.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:54 PM   #40
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^This. Read the part about the all-important transfer layer.
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