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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Suspension & Braking

Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 10-02-2013, 12:15 AM   #61
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Nice DIY Mango! Good Job!
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:50 AM   #62
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so just to make sure i understood this correctly, part number 33326771828 is what comes stock and mango recommends replacing them with 33321140345 same as the top balljoints, they can go on the bottom for a total of 4 per car, top and bottom correct?
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Old 10-02-2013, 05:04 AM   #63
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There is none. The true BMW kit for this is upwards of $800-$1,000. Consider the tool I linked a bargain.
Well, not exactly true. You can do what I did:



Yes, the whole trailing arm (with axle attached!) is in my press.
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:28 AM   #64
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Well, not exactly true. You can do what I did:



Yes, the whole trailing arm (with axle attached!) is in my press.
Yeah anyone knows you can press it out of the car easier with sockets and the such. But the post of mine which you quote was quoting someone elses post that said he would "Rent one from the local auto parts store" in which i responded there is no such tool--meaning from an auto parts store. And hardly anybody is going to remove the whole trailing arm to do this job so it makes the most sense to just use the correct tool.

When I get mine back from Tim, I will rent it out to people I know or have met. I've met Tim and he's the King of this site so he's good i trust him .
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:31 AM   #65
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Have you ever DRIVEN a car with the powerflex or UUC RTAB's?

I have had powerflex on my own cars, and installed them on other peoples cars. They are a wonderful upgrade, one you can actually feel.

When going this route you don't need anything beyond a drill bit and air chisel for removal and your hands to install. It is a thing of beauty.

Nothing wrong with OE bushings, but nothing wrong with powerflex either.

Oh, and there is more movement of a stock bushing than a powerflex, pressed or not. Both are BOLTED to the car.

As for special tools, whatever. People said I couldn't do rear wheel bearings without a special tool, I did that too. Even documented it on youtube. There is always a way around things. It is the difference between experience and book knowledge.

Nice write-up, and Kudos for adding the other ball joints, most people skip that item.
I've done wheel bearings without special tools also. But it's not fun and not easy especially if your car has underbody corrosion or rust. the right tool covers all scenarios and is often times the fastest, safest, and easiest bet. When you struggle with tools, things tend to break and go flying. i like my eyes!

Poly bushings in the rtab location is just not my cup of tea. i don't necessarily want to "feel," i want my car to perform in its intended role--that is a street vehicle.
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:13 PM   #66
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awesome post. 10000x more informative than that other silly and vague m3 suspension thread that got stickied
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:26 PM   #67
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awesome post. 10000x more informative than that other silly and vague m3 suspension thread that got stickied
Thanks! I modified the original post for clarity and provided more information.
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:49 PM   #68
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This.
The MIS tool is really amazing. I was doing two e46 suspension refreshes which took me about 12 hours total. That's everything including struts, control arms, bushings, springs, shocks, tie rods, sway bar bushings and linkage, mounts, and RTABs. I saved the RTABs till last and at 3am the last thing I wanted to do was "rig" an autozone tool to work. I was already tired, frustrated, sweaty, and just plain sore. The tool put a smile on my face on how easy it worked. Almost as easy as replacing a thermostat.

Many members have then for rent. I got mine for $20. Well worth it. I actually regret not buying it.

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I almost rented one from a member but a friend said he would lend me one. When I got it, it was some generic bushing tool that would require I remove the entire arm. I went to their website and the tool only costs $99 shipped.
I ordered one but I will not be renting it out.
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:57 PM   #69
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I almost rented one from a member but a friend said he would lend me one. When I got it, it was some generic bushing tool that would require I remove the entire arm. I went to their website and the tool only costs $99 shipped.
I ordered one but I will not be renting it out.
you should. i've rented mine out a few times already and that alone paid for it. i do it conveniently though. i have a rule. no driving and requires no more than 10 minutes of my time to walk outside meet the person take the money and run back indoors.
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Old 10-02-2013, 04:04 PM   #70
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So, you wanna service the rear trailing arm? Definitive Trailing Arm Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango View Post
Yeah anyone knows you can press it out of the car easier with sockets and the such. But the post of mine which you quote was quoting someone elses post that said he would "Rent one from the local auto parts store" in which i responded there is no such tool--meaning from an auto parts store. And hardly anybody is going to remove the whole trailing arm to do this job so it makes the most sense to just use the correct tool.

When I get mine back from Tim, I will rent it out to people I know or have met. I've met Tim and he's the King of this site so he's good i trust him .
Uh, dude, it was posted as a joke. Un-wad your panties :-)


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Old 10-02-2013, 05:28 PM   #71
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Uh, dude, it was posted as a joke. Un-wad your panties :-)


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I never thought otherwise
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:23 PM   #72
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I just want to confirm this. As per the picture:


Number 4 is part number 33326770786. So in BMA the part is http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...HD&weight=0.45

I think i read on the forum that there is a newer design , not m3, for this bushing? Is that correct?

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Old 10-02-2013, 07:30 PM   #73
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And I've also found this part: http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...ER&weight=0.50

Is there that big of a difference between the two for the price to be almost twice as much?

Edit: Nevermind, seems like the part in this post is the M3 bushing.

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Old 10-02-2013, 09:38 PM   #74
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And I've also found this part: http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku...ER&weight=0.50

Is there that big of a difference between the two for the price to be almost twice as much?

Edit: Nevermind, seems like the part in this post is the M3 bushing.
The one you've gave linked is the new design. You should use it, but you have the old type already, then it ok as well.
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:47 PM   #75
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you should. i've rented mine out a few times already and that alone paid for it. i do it conveniently though. i have a rule. no driving and requires no more than 10 minutes of my time to walk outside meet the person take the money and run back indoors.
The people I trust with any of my tools are friends and they are welcome to use it. They hook me up when in need and I try to reciprocate. Someone like you with a large forum following can be a bit more accommodating.
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Old 10-03-2013, 03:36 PM   #76
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Any idea what the labor charge would be at an indy shop to replace the RTABs?
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Old 10-03-2013, 04:42 PM   #77
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The people I trust with any of my tools are friends and they are welcome to use it. They hook me up when in need and I try to reciprocate. Someone like you with a large forum following can be a bit more accommodating.
Huh? I don't understand what you are getting at. I am accomodating. I give free stuff/service/advice/programming/etc. out all the time to locals. I also rent out my tools for measely dollars which I don't need.
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Old 10-03-2013, 05:48 PM   #78
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A quick comment about polyurethane bushings in the trailing arms. It seems like only the street crowd that uses them. The people who race this chassis don't use them. The RTAB is a multi-axis bushing so it needs to flex to let the suspension move. Polyurethane is not a good choice for something that needs to deflect. It's OK for a sway bar or a single-axis bushing (like the FCABs, though nobody makes one that's remotely good at all) but it isn't as elastic as rubber so it tends to deform over time. Yes, rubber cracks, but it doesn't really deform permanently in the trailing arm.

My experience with tracking E36 / E46 chassis cars with poly RTABs is they feel a little stiffer in roll but they are ultimately more unpredictable to drive. The rear suspension isn't allowed to move as freely. I know people who even use delrin back there - not a great idea unless the suspension is so stiff that it doesn't move very much at all.

I've had the best success with stock Z4 RTABs and delrin or aluminum limiters. Cheap, long lasting, and very predictable in their handling.
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Old 10-03-2013, 06:15 PM   #79
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A quick comment about polyurethane bushings in the trailing arms. It seems like only the street crowd that uses them. The people who race this chassis don't use them. The RTAB is a multi-axis bushing so it needs to flex to let the suspension move. Polyurethane is not a good choice for something that needs to deflect. It's OK for a sway bar or a single-axis bushing (like the FCABs, though nobody makes one that's remotely good at all) but it isn't as elastic as rubber so it tends to deform over time. Yes, rubber cracks, but it doesn't really deform permanently in the trailing arm.

My experience with tracking E36 / E46 chassis cars with poly RTABs is they feel a little stiffer in roll but they are ultimately more unpredictable to drive. The rear suspension isn't allowed to move as freely. I know people who even use delrin back there - not a great idea unless the suspension is so stiff that it doesn't move very much at all.

I've had the best success with stock Z4 RTABs and delrin or aluminum limiters. Cheap, long lasting, and very predictable in their handling.
Correct. All these points I've supported throughout the years as per Vorshlag's assessment. For street cars that drive on roads that aren't glass-smooth, these bushings are best kept rubber.
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Old 10-04-2013, 04:51 AM   #80
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Correct. All these points I've supported throughout the years as per Vorshlag's assessment. For street cars that drive on roads that aren't glass-smooth, these bushings are best kept rubber.
Not only are they best kept rubber but I would be very nervous about increasing the rigidity of one joint in an articulating chain that drastically without making changes to every related joint.

My experience driving my 330 without DSC for months, had been that the limits of adhesion are reached in a predictable manner and recovery is equally smooth.
Drive a prepared car on the track and you will find it has different manners.

If urethane is so good, why not aluminum?
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