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Suspension & Braking
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!

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Old 10-04-2013, 09:51 AM   #81
Mango
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ti317 View Post
Not only are they best kept rubber but I would be very nervous about increasing the rigidity of one joint in an articulating chain that drastically without making changes to every related joint.

My experience driving my 330 without DSC for months, had been that the limits of adhesion are reached in a predictable manner and recovery is equally smooth.
Drive a prepared car on the track and you will find it has different manners.

If urethane is so good, why not aluminum?
yup that's what i say. stiffer isn't always better.
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Last edited by Mango; 10-04-2013 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 02:34 PM   #82
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Okay, just to recap since I'm going to be doing this and need to make sure I've got clarity.

I have an 02 325i 5sp with no options other than premium and cold weather pkgs.

So I should buy

1) 2x M3 RTABS
2) 4x M3 upper/lower balljoint-style bushes as described earlier

It was mentioned that NVH increase will be negligible. Is this also true if one goes all M3 parts? Is there a particular combo of M/non-M that would work better for my intended purpose and driving style(DD/no-track/speed limit obeyer), or would full-M be the way to go?

I think the plain Jane car handles just fine stock. I remember thinking it rode a little stiff when I first got it, but the handling was so crisp I quickly forgot. So really I wouldn't be going with M parts for the handling improvement so much as for the improvement in durability/longevity. I'd like to rebuild the suspension to better withstand the **** roads in the DC area, potholes & road construction & whatnot. I'm looking to make something that would be difficult to destroy when driving normally on streets that are perpetually torn up for construction.

Also, someone mentioned Z4 RTABS? What are they like and how do they compare to OE E46 & M3 RTABS? I'm assuming they fit the E46 as a normal E46 bushing would.

Would these limiters benefit my application?

Thanks Mango for the thread
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:10 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by hitbyastick View Post
Okay, just to recap since I'm going to be doing this and need to make sure I've got clarity.

I have an 02 325i 5sp with no options other than premium and cold weather pkgs.

So I should buy

1) 2x M3 RTABS
2) 4x M3 upper/lower balljoint-style bushes as described earlier

It was mentioned that NVH increase will be negligible. Is this also true if one goes all M3 parts? Is there a particular combo of M/non-M that would work better for my intended purpose and driving style(DD/no-track/speed limit obeyer), or would full-M be the way to go?

I think the plain Jane car handles just fine stock. I remember thinking it rode a little stiff when I first got it, but the handling was so crisp I quickly forgot. So really I wouldn't be going with M parts for the handling improvement so much as for the improvement in durability/longevity. I'd like to rebuild the suspension to better withstand the **** roads in the DC area, potholes & road construction & whatnot. I'm looking to make something that would be difficult to destroy when driving normally on streets that are perpetually torn up for construction.

Also, someone mentioned Z4 RTABS? What are they like and how do they compare to OE E46 & M3 RTABS? I'm assuming they fit the E46 as a normal E46 bushing would.

Would these limiters benefit my application?

Thanks Mango for the thread
If your car is a DD and drives fine, don't potentially make it worse by adding M3 parts. I'm using all M3 parts now and my car is on the loud and harsh side.

Keep it stock and just maintain it.
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:52 AM   #84
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I hope that Autozone tool setup takes into account the "ears" on the new RTABs. otherwise you'll destroy the bushing if you used a half-assed tool. It also appears that the plate used in the above photos is cocked in the photos. This means its going into the trailing arm crooked which increases the likelihood of pressing the bushing in crooked. that will destroy it. be careful with such tools. personally i'd just use the MIS tool. lots of people may rent it to you
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This.
The MIS tool is really amazing. I was doing two e46 suspension refreshes which took me about 12 hours total. That's everything including struts, control arms, bushings, springs, shocks, tie rods, sway bar bushings and linkage, mounts, and RTABs. I saved the RTABs till last and at 3am the last thing I wanted to do was "rig" an autozone tool to work. I was already tired, frustrated, sweaty, and just plain sore. The tool put a smile on my face on how easy it worked. Almost as easy as replacing a thermostat.
+1

3 of my friends including myself tried this cheaper route already and the Harbor Freight route. Did not turn out as good

Ended up buying the MIS RTAB Tool. Wow! What a difference. Less than 30mins each side. I just followed fmzip's DIY here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=678004 (Thanks fmzip)

I'm actually putting together a DIY as well. I will post them up soon.

If anyone needs to rent out my MIS RTAB Tool, let me know. Also, Mango may have one to rent out as well. Great write-up Mango

Happy DIYing

Last edited by YOnpds; 10-07-2013 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:17 PM   #85
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wow. 5 pages of information now. go mango!!!
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:03 PM   #86
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wow. 5 pages of information now. go mango!!!
Thank you! If you think my suspension guide should be stickied, let the mods know. =) It's for all E46 323/328/325/330 owners and covers it all!! (The suspension link in my sig)
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:29 PM   #87
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Huh? I don't understand what you are getting at. I am accomodating. I give free stuff/service/advice/programming/etc. out all the time to locals. I also rent out my tools for measely dollars which I don't need.
I missed this. What I meant is that because you have a large forum prescience, it is less likely that people will abuse your tools or otherwise rip you off.

Edit;
Yes, you are accommodating, more so than I. Don't think it's not appreciated.
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Last edited by ti317; 10-07-2013 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:34 PM   #88
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I put off the RTAB job because it has been too hot he past few days but I think I'll do it Thursday night.

I am going to experiment with using zip ties to restrain the bushing after compressing it with a hose clamp. The idea being to simply clip the zip tie with side cutters once the bushing is underway.

If it works, I'll report back next week.
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:22 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by ti317 View Post
I put off the RTAB job because it has been too hot he past few days but I think I'll do it Thursday night.

I am going to experiment with using zip ties to restrain the bushing after compressing it with a hose clamp. The idea being to simply clip the zip tie with side cutters once the bushing is underway.

If it works, I'll report back next week.
no need to do that. just use the clamp and undo it once the bushing is in. don't overthink this. it's easy
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Old 10-08-2013, 05:32 AM   #90
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no need to do that. just use the clamp and undo it once the bushing is in. don't overthink this. it's easy
I know but I like to live on the edge. LOL. If this works, I may save 2-3 minutes off the entire job.
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Old 10-08-2013, 08:28 AM   #91
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So, you wanna service the rear trailing arm? Definitive Trailing Arm Guide

Quote:
Originally Posted by ti317 View Post
I put off the RTAB job because it has been too hot he past few days but I think I'll do it Thursday night.

I am going to experiment with using zip ties to restrain the bushing after compressing it with a hose clamp. The idea being to simply clip the zip tie with side cutters once the bushing is underway.

If it works, I'll report back next week.
You can find a good discussion on this project in this thread. It helped me a lot:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1007517


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Old 10-08-2013, 11:18 AM   #92
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I know but I like to live on the edge. LOL. If this works, I may save 2-3 minutes off the entire job.
Thats the thing though. it saves no time. the time you are using to fiddle around with the zip ties can be used to undo the clamp. you need to undo the clamp anyways to get the zip ties on so why not just undo the clamp when you need to?
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Old 10-08-2013, 02:09 PM   #93
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Thats the thing though. it saves no time. the time you are using to fiddle around with the zip ties can be used to undo the clamp. you need to undo the clamp anyways to get the zip ties on so why not just undo the clamp when you need to?
To be different.

Also, I can do this from the bench, get the bushing started in the car and then reach up and snip the zip tie off. My first though was to do it with baling wire but the clip off part didn't seem as easy. And of course, I only have to loosen the clamp, not completely undo it.

This is more of an academic exercise than anything else. How else can I get ride of the 750 assorted zip ties I bought over a year ago?
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:44 AM   #94
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So, you wanna service the rear trailing arm? Definitive Trailing Arm Guide

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To be different.

Also, I can do this from the bench, get the bushing started in the car and then reach up and snip the zip tie off. My first though was to do it with baling wire but the clip off part didn't seem as easy. And of course, I only have to loosen the clamp, not completely undo it.

This is more of an academic exercise than anything else. How else can I get ride of the 750 assorted zip ties I bought over a year ago?
You think a zip tie is strong enough to hold the split rtab bushing compressed?


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Old 10-09-2013, 04:49 PM   #95
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You think a zip tie is strong enough to hold the split rtab bushing compressed?


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To paraphrase a Dodge Hemi commercial. "We're about to find out".
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:19 PM   #96
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You think a zip tie is strong enough to hold the split rtab bushing compressed?


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Actually it didn't take a lot of pressure to close the spilt collar. I have one clamped and tied, I just haven't taken the clamp off as I am sure if I leave the clamp off for too long, the zip tie will stretch. Besides, if it doesn't go smoothly, I can always go back to the Mango way.
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Old 10-11-2013, 12:55 PM   #97
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Looking at maybe getting parts for this job soon, Would the part numbers for the m3 ball joints be the same if they were going to be used on an XI? I assume the rear end and rear trail arm are the same as an I/CI?
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Old 10-11-2013, 03:04 PM   #98
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Update on the zip tie. It was a stupid idea, it took all of 10 seconds to see it was not going to work.

Mango, I don't know why I let you talk me into trying it.

It was my idea? Never kind then.
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Old 10-11-2013, 04:40 PM   #99
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Update on the zip tie. It was a stupid idea, it took all of 10 seconds to see it was not going to work.

Mango, I don't know why I let you talk me into trying it.

It was my idea? Never kind then.


moral of the story (as proven time after time after time after time after TIME again) listen to mango
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Old 10-11-2013, 06:44 PM   #100
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moral of the story (as proven time after time after time after time after TIME again) listen to mango
Yeah but if we don't try new things, we never progress. The trick is to identify quickly when it's time to get back in line before you do any damage.
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