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Old 10-07-2013, 08:13 AM   #1
mdrobnak
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330i SSG Technique Tuning Stage 1+

Now that everything has been settled with the turbo kit 'as delivered', it's time to prepare for the next steps.

What's been decided so far is the following:
* It involves what's pictured below
* Staying wih MAF-based setup (no Alpha-N here) to it's limits
* More boost

I will be doing work in stages, as I want to do as much as I can sooner rather then later, but I don't want to lay out another large chunk of cash in a short period.

So, who can figure out what's pictured below? More details to follow after that happens.

-Matt
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:21 AM   #2
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Pro-EFI?
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:29 AM   #3
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That's correct.

ProEFI 128 is at my house currently.

The first piece of this is to do get the wiring harness set up for my car, as it's an MS45 car. The good news is that this means a harness pinout will be known for ZHP cars as well. I will post more detailed information on that later.

Once I have that done, I will install the unit in my car, and attempt to get 93 octane drivability up to where it currently is on the stock DME. I am currently using an eBoost2 controller, and the next step would be to move to boost being controlled by the ProEFI. No extra boost at this point.

That would be stage 1.3.

After that's done, I'd have ID1000 Injectors installed as well as do something with the fuel pump to ensure I have enough fuel for E85.

Let's call that stage 1.6.

Then the final chunk, which is another more expensive, but necessary piece would be:

Head Studs
Oil Pump
Harmonic Balancer
ZHP Cams
Clutch

and that is where more boost will come into play, as well as final tuning for 93 and E85.

-Matt
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:01 PM   #4
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A preface to everything written below - what I write here is based upon the information that I have at the time of writing. I think I understand this stuff decently, but I'm not a subject matter expert, and am willing to update any information which I write that is inaccurate. I welcome learning new things. I'm a Computer Engineer by degree and System Administrator by profession, so computer stuff comes to me easily. That said...

A little background: The DME that is in the ZHP cars and those equipped with SSG is the Siemens MS45 unit. Outside of the US there was the MS 45.0 and the MS45.1; the US only got the MS 45.1. The main difference between the two models is it was a narrowband or wideband Oxygen sensor. The 45.1 has the wideband sensor which is the Bosch LSU4.2 based sensor.

With respect to the MS43 and MSS54 DMEs, those are both based on the Motorola 68k CPUs, where the MS45 is a Freescale MPC555 CPU, which is PowerPC based. Oh, and there are two processors in the MS45. In terms of computing power, it's a lot more. There's a bit more stringent emissions checking in there as well, but the main upside is that it can react to misfires and changes in air flow quickly, and closed loop control can correct issues during full throttle where the others can do a more limited version.

So, if this thing is so awesome, why on earth would I want to use something else. The answer is, I don't, really. The problem is that downside of the power that's contained in the DME comes with the cost of complexity. The code for the MS45 is much larger and more difficult to deal with then either of the other two. The result is that it would be very time consuming (and thus not cost effective) to wire in support for Flex Fuel into the MS45. As I wish to use E85 to be able to get more power out of the stock block / compression safely, I need an ECU which can do that.

Enter the ProEFI. One of the main things that attracted me to this platform was the fact that not only does it have excellent features (which for my purposes boil down to Flex Fuel, Boost Control, and Traction Control), it has excellent fault management, is quite powerful (newer Freescale CPU, also PowerPC based), it is not simply a speed-density system, which is significantly easier to write code for, but also requires more time to deal with any changes in volumetric efficiency.

Speed density does have it's advantages, which is quicker reaction to throttle changes or manifold pressure. However, it comes with a cost - more hardware vs stock, and lots of different kinds of compensation tables. One can create a very good SD calibration, and quite a few of the ProEFI ones are indeed that. For my purposes, howevder, I am sticking with the OEM method of using the MAF sensor. This is a direct measurement of airflow, instead of a calculated value based upon manifold pressure, throttle opening, temperature, and volumetric efficiency. The downside is that this can become a restriction if it's a really high horsepower build. The advantage, however, is that in the end, I will simply swap in the ZHP cams, restart the car, and be on my merry way. Why? The cams will simply draw in more air into the combustion chamber. Thus more air will flow by the MAF, and the fueling and load will still be correct. This is what makes the MAF shine to me.


Now that we have that out of the way, the next part is about aquiring the unit, and dealing with the first obstacle, the wiring harness.

Last edited by mdrobnak; 12-06-2013 at 09:57 AM. Reason: Corrected wideband model based on data from NIVO
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Old 10-08-2013, 11:21 PM   #5
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The main downside of something being for the automotive environment (environmentally 'hardened'), as well as being low volume, is that something that is otherwise inexpensive becomes expensive really fast. There's probably more computing power in my phone then in most ECUs out there. I'm on a budget. Finding a ProEFI 128 unit out there that was not going to break my budget considerably was difficult. I found an awesome deal thanks to a MarcusLSB, but stupidly didn't jump on it quick enough. I found a not-as-awesome but still good deal later on, and purchased the unit. The problem was that the unit I ended up getting was a kit for an Evo IX, which lacked a few pieces that the E46 kits need. Trying to get information from ProEFI directly was a little bit diffcult. It's clear that they are trying to offload the majority of inquiries to their dealer network. While this makes sense for a established, proven platform, for the case of having a configuration never seen in person, it's a bit frustrating to try and figure out where things stand.

Enter Garth. For those of you who are unaware, Garth Ruggie is the man over at Undercover Performance. Back when I was initially researching what I was going to do this year, I had narrowed it down to one of three options: ESS Twin Screw Stage 2, Technique Tuning Stage 1, or Undercover Performance's E46 turbo setup. At the time, I conversed with both Nick G of Technique Tuning, and Garth at Undercover. I probably spent at least an hour on the phone with each going over what my plans, ideas, and goals were. In the end, I ended up going with Nick's kit and Maximum PSI, but both Nick and Garth had proven that they were both interested in ensuring that I made an informed descision in whatever I did. As time progresed, I asked Garth a few questions about the ProEFI, as while I had most questions answered there were a few I had seen on the forums that I wanted some clarification on. Garth took the time to answer all of them. I then started playing around with the software, and asked yet more questions. Again, Garth answered. Mind you, Garth had not seen a dime from me at this point.

At this time, I've got the Evo kit, and again call up Garth and we discuss where we go from here. The problem is the only two harnesses available for BMW are the E36 and E46 M3. So we decided the best course of action was to acquire an E46 M3 harness and modify it. I also realized that I was missing some items to make things work for the BMW - fuel injector resistors to keep the DME happy, as well as igniters to fire the coils. I ordered the wiring harness, igniters, resistors and mounting bracket, as well as a CAN cable to program the ECU and log from it.

There's another user here, bimmerguy055 who has it working on an 325, but his vehicle is an MS43, and thus there's not much to modify. The next steps for me were to get wiring diagrams from bmw-planet for the M3, and for MS45 based 330s. I started with simple DME pinout diagrams and got the basics down pretty easily. Then looking at ignition coils, fuel injectors, vanos control, I noted that the BMW designations for input and output were sometimes in agreement, and sometimes not, between the MSS54 and the MS45. I then looked at the actual electrical diagrams noting polarity and made sure things were actually the same. I thought I was done, but then graciously got a copy of the MS43 wiring diagram from bimmerguy055, which made me look over the coil setup a bit more, as the ordering was a bit different. So now I'm doing a 3 way diff between MS43, MS45, and MSS54, and I came up with what I think is the correct wiring diagram. I'm still waiting to hear back on that, but wasn't in a hurry as I was missing parts.

Fast forward to today, and the missing parts have arrived. My first reaction when getting the ECU, and when getting the wiring harness is "wow that's bigger then I thought it would be." Attached below are pics of the ECU, wiring harness, and bracket, along with the items as it was purchased from the Evo IX owner.

I hope to do the necessary modifications to the harness this weekend, but it certainly looks to be an interesting task.
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrobnak View Post
I started with simple DME pinout diagrams and got the basics down pretty easily. Then looking at ignition coils, fuel injectors, vanos control, I noted that the BMW designations for input and output were sometimes in agreement, and sometimes not, between the MSS54 and the MS45. I then looked at the actual electrical diagrams noting polarity and made sure things were actually the same. I thought I was done, but then graciously got a copy of the MS43 wiring diagram from bimmerguy055, which made me look over the coil setup a bit more, as the ordering was a bit different. So now I'm doing a 3 way diff between MS43, MS45, and MSS54, and I came up with what I think is the correct wiring diagram.
I have spent hundreds of hours going over BMW wiring diagram info, and what you describe is consistently my experience.

My process is to start with the correct connector#, then run the pin allocations. Next I trace the wire to the terminating connector, and look up the pinout and functions there. Often, they do not match. Not only in function, and pin #s, but also in wire color and size. You end up looking at different model type diagrams, for varying model years, to confirm the connections and functionality of one wire. This is for signal wires. When you get to bus wires, ground wires, and power wires, it can get even more confusing.

Over-all, you can find the information if you are persistent. But it's not an easy process for those not familiar with wiring diagrams.

On my 330i with MS43 and an Automatic transmission, there are over 100 signal wires.
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Old 10-10-2013, 05:31 PM   #7
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This is harder then originally thought, as splices to the DME patch harness are extremely close to the goo keeping it all together. Not sure where I'm heading from here. ProEFI tech support is less then helpful, and Garth is prepping for a few events so he's not available.

Anyone got a good source for AMP connectors? Most places have crazy lead times. Thinking about buying an MS43 and making a "make this look like the mss54 harness" patch, but this is getting stupid. Not particularly happy.
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:30 AM   #8
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Dunno if anyone saw:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1009317

I posted a picture of the AMP connector I'm trying to take apart. Anyone know the correct tool (and a source with quick turnaround) to work with these connectors?

-Matt
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:24 PM   #9
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:11 PM   #10
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Made major progress..

Mike was extremely helpful in the other thread (I just wasn't pushing hard enough), and I made progress:



At that point I had only removed the crank signal return from it's original M3 position. Getting that wax stuff off was a pain in the butt.

I was moving slowly, but moving. Crank, IAT, 2 injectors, VANOS position for intake were all done...When I realized that one of the pins I moved and made straight through was actually in injector connection. So I moved the pin to the injector resistors for the DME connection, and was in the process of moving the wire for the injector driver from ProEFI when...


Hopes and Dreams Destroyed by mattdrobnak, on Flickr

As the title suggests, this began my end of day. The pin for #8 in X6003 (aka C8 in ProEFI nomenclature) decided that it had enough, and broke off the large AMP connector.

This is how far I got:



So, am I completely screwed? Is there a way to replace that single pin, or should I be thinking of alternatives here (like a PCB mounted in a DME case...).

I'll be over here annoyed with myself.

-Matt
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:56 PM   #11
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An update:

I have a workaround for the missing pin - I will get a pigtail connector to connect to Injector 6 directly and wire that to the ProEFI. So, not the end of the world.

All of the X6003 (C) connections have been made except for the Knock Sensor return wires, as I nee to run actual wires. I bought 18 gauge wire which matches that of the other wires in the harness, and will add in the missing returns the next time I get a chance (this weekend is busy for me, and I only briefly worked this past Tuesday and Thursday).

The other item is the ignition coils - but I need to open this connector that I've attached a picture of below..hopefully someone can explain this one.

I plan on having the car at least idling on ProEFI by end of week next week.

-Matt
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:47 AM   #12
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All of the X6003 (C) connections have been made except for the Knock Sensor return wires, as I nee to run actual wires. I bought 18 gauge wire which matches that of the other wires in the harness, and will add in the missing returns the next time I get a chance (this weekend is busy for me, and I only briefly worked this past Tuesday and Thursday).
Woah.

You are setting yourself up for problems if you are planning to just tap into the knock sensor wiring with normal wire.

Look at the wiring for the knock sensors and you will see the following:

- Shielding that is grounded back to chassis on one side of the wire sheathing.
- The positive and negative signal wires are twisted together

This is to minimize electrical noise, which increases the SNR of the input signal. Try to stick with the same type of wiring.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:54 AM   #13
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Wonderful.

I've worked with that type of wiring before. I may actually have some left from my guitar amp building days.

In this particular case, I will have to look very closely to see what was done - I don't recall the signal wires being out of the ordinary compared to the other signals in the harness when I moved them on Thursday. I need to look over the wiring diagram for the knock sensors again to ensure I even need to do this (looking to see if there's some common bus the ground point goes to, like in the M3.)

-Matt
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdrobnak View Post

A little background: The DME that is in the ZHP cars and those equipped with SSG is the Siemens MS45 unit. Outside of the US there was the MS 45.0 and the MS45.1; the US only got the MS 45.1. The main difference between the two models is it was a narrowband or wideband Oxygen sensor. The 45.1 has the wideband, and as far as I can tell it's a Bosch LSH25 based sensor.
OEM wideband 1 part number #11787523434, Bosch 0 258 007 215 (LSU 4.2)
Used in the M54 engines.

OEM wideband 2 part number #11787523435, Bosch 0 258 007 216 (LSU 4.2)
Used in the M54 engines.

OEM wideband part number #11787535269, Bosch 0 258 017 028 (LSU 4.9), Used in the N46N and N62N engines.

OEM wideband part number #11787537993, Bosch 0 258 017 036 (LSU 4.9), Used in the N52 engine.

The LSH 25 Bosch is a 4 wire Narrow band.
The LSu 4.2 Bosch is a 5 wire wide band.
The LSU 4.9 Bosch is a 5 wire wide band. Used by OEM's from 2003+

If you have the Bosch part number you can convert it to the SKU number by using the last 3 digits of the Bosch part number. for example my bank 1 sensor is Bosch 0 258 007 215, converted to a SKU number would be 17215. Put the SKU in Amazon to get pricing.

By the looks of my sensor, it is a LSU 4.2 on my 6/2004 330Ci ZHP.
Here is a reference image of the upstream BMW sensor:
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:14 PM   #15
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Oh, that's interesting. I was looking at the MS45/E85 platform (Z4) BMW documents for most of my info -- totally missed that it's MS 45.0, not 45.1. I wouldn't have figured BMW would do that, it's kind of a silly move in my opinion.

Looks like pins 13,15,19,21 are unused on the Z4. However, pretty much everything else is identical, excepting things like Secondary MAF for SAP. So, MS45 harness will work on that platform with the M54 as well.

Thanks for the info!!

-Matt

Last edited by mdrobnak; 10-19-2013 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:32 PM   #16
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One other note - I am considering the harness I'm making to be a working, but temporary measure. I'm hoping to have a high quality harness constructed down the line after everything is worked out and settled.

-Matt
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Old 10-21-2013, 01:29 PM   #17
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Woah.

You are setting yourself up for problems if you are planning to just tap into the knock sensor wiring with normal wire.

Look at the wiring for the knock sensors and you will see the following:

- Shielding that is grounded back to chassis on one side of the wire sheathing.
- The positive and negative signal wires are twisted together

This is to minimize electrical noise, which increases the SNR of the input signal. Try to stick with the same type of wiring.
This is what I have:

Belden 9501 - http://www.belden.com/techdatas/metric/9501.pdf

Which is apparently 24AWG cable rated to up to 80 deg C. Do you think I should use this, or chance the 18 gague unshielded? That is rated to 90 deg C.

-Matt
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Old 10-25-2013, 08:32 PM   #18
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Update:

Been a hectic work week. Didn't get much time to work on this.

I figured out how to get the connector open for the igniter connections. I'll post pics later.
Didn't do me any good, as they likely need a tool to remove. Aside from that, almost done.

Wires for knock sensor grounds are wired up on the ProEFI end. Just need to find a good spot to ground
the shield wire. Then I'll have have the rest of that wired in no time.

The VANOS angle (frequency input) for Intake was already wired in. Added in Exhaust as per some instructions I have.

I then started looking at wiring up the Igniters, and ran into issues.


1. The connector was a pain to get open.
2. Not sure how to pop out the wiring.
3. Wiring does not match the diagram.
4. Needed pins are not brought through, need to take off more wax stuff. Yay.

So I am so close, yet so not done.

More to come.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:28 AM   #19
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Wiring does match diagram, as it turns out. It's just that the connector pin numbering does not match that of the incoming harness. Still need to pop out one pin, but aside from that, I got the goop back in place for the other spots it was removed.

Just need to finish up the ignition coil wiring, pick a ground spot for the shield for knock sensor ground returns, and wire up the missing pin for cam sync.

-Matt
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:18 PM   #20
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Cam sync pin is unnecessary.

Ignition coils are wired up.

All done except for ground spot. Then I can put back the little bit of goo I removed.

Sleep now.

I expect to fire it up on the ProEFI soon.

-Matt
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