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Old 10-31-2013, 10:37 AM   #21
jbfrancis3
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Another trick for catching the shavings is to pack the tap with grease.

Look forward to more progress!
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Old 10-31-2013, 02:03 PM   #22
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Another trick for catching the shavings is to pack the tap with grease.

Look forward to more progress!
yes this works! I watched my mechanic do it once.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:18 PM   #23
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Excellent work on the install. Looking forward to updates. Your gonna love it once it's running,
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Old 11-03-2013, 01:21 PM   #24
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Great read looking forward to updates. Keep up the good work
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:23 PM   #25
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Thanks everyone! I guess it's time for an update.

I've been really busy with midterms so when I would work on the car it would be little things being done over a few days. Last weekend I had a friend come over and help me over 2 days, which really got things moving but unfortunately as we were trying to get things done as quickly as possible I forgot to take pictures.

On Friday we had a bit of a late start after class but we got the second part of the downpipe installed as well as the intercooler, charge piping and intake. We also got around to installing most to most of the vacuum lines then called it a night.





On Saturday I got to work on installing the VANOS rattle kit.




Then I moved on to swapping out the cam sprocket bolts for the new updated ones.



After that came the intake and exhaust hub. I installed the updated S62 diaphragm springs while I was at it.



Followed by the installation of the VANOS unit itself.





My friend came over again on Sunday and we finished up most of what was left. I had my friend finish running the vacuum lines and reinstalling the coolant overflow tank while I finished cleaning out the oil pan. After that was done he started on refilling the fluids while I temporarily wired in the wideband gauge and boost controller. When we tested to see if the gauges turned on with the ignition we found a leak in the fuel feed feed line for the fuel rail. I guess I had either didn't see and forgot to install the o-ring for the spacer or it wasn't in the bag. Anyway, my friend took off the fuel rail while I finished up with the gauges. He dropped the bracket that held the rail at it's new height so everything on the intake side had to come out. After we got that fixed and checked for leaks we were set to start the car.



Everything checked out, no leaks, no major obvious issues. As you can see in the video the car wasn't holding vacuum properly, an oversight on my part, but it's been addressed.

After we started it our next thought was that we had to go for a drive that same night. It was close to 11 at this point but I was just too excited not to go out. We got to cutting the reinforcement plate so that we could install that, at minimum, to go for a drive. As we let the car idle for a bit to warm up we set up the eboost2, as a safety incase just incase we ran a vacuum line incorrectly or the car overboosted. As we set off I found it slightly difficult to drive the car without having to slip the clutch quite a bit, probably due to it still being cold, having the larger injectors, the vacuum leak we weren't aware of and I hadn't driven the car in a month (My VW has a super soft clutch so it takes a while to get used when I switch between vehicles). Once the car was moving it really drove like stock, that is until we got into boost

Once the car was up to operating temp I would go into boost ever so slightly, maybe 2-3psi, just to see what it feels like. If you are driving around normally and don't mash on the throttle the car transitions into boost so smoothly that you probably wouldn't even notice. It might just be me but I was amazed by how fast the car would get into boost, it seemed to be around 2700-3000rpm that it would start building. Now once you really get on the throttle the car throws you into your seat and just pulls all the way to redline. I had the biggest smile on my face the whole time I was driving.

Unfortunately the car overboosted at one point, due to our own fault, but the eboost2 kicked in and dropped the pressure immediately. When we got back and let the car idle for cool down it ended up shutting itself off which left us slightly puzzled. I tried restarting the car and noticed the AFR was around 16-17 which had us worried so we shut it off. We later found out that one of the coupler had blown off at one point, and after talking to Mike it was probably the result of a vacuum leak.

After talking with Mike, he recommended pressure testing the intake to check for vacuum leaks. I also realized later that we had actually run the vacuum lines to the boost solenoid backwards, causing a major leak in the system. After pressure testing the intake I found that the little hose on the back of the vacuum rail had slipped off, probably after we removed it to get at the fuel rail, right before we started it.

This past Friday I finally got around to cutting and remounting the front bumper and belly pan. It took me about 3 hours but I was taking my time and ended up going through about 40 cutting disks for my dremel. I love the look of the anodized intercooler, it's very subtle and looks almost OEM. Here's the bumper during one of the many test fits.


Final product, without flash


With flash


I was able to get in one more drive after fixing the vacuum lines and fitting the bumper. The car was running even better and would go into boost even faster. Unfortunately due to the weather I wasn't able to drive it for more than an hour and couldn't really push it as it was raining and getting a bit cold. I ended up having to drive through some snow as I got closer to my house and got stuck at one point. I drove the car on side roads very slowly just to be safe. The car was very tame going slowly and I really couldn't tell a difference compared to stock at that point, which I am very thankful for.

After I got stuck I tried to go reverse down a hill, the car didn't like it and did a 180.


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Old 11-11-2013, 02:04 PM   #26
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very nice im looking forward to seeing more videos of your car up and running at full force!
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Old 11-11-2013, 03:12 PM   #27
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Nice work man, I'm jealous. Nothing beats the first couple of drives after a big install like this. Bummer about the weather, but it sounds like its going to be a blast to drive.
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Old 11-11-2013, 03:40 PM   #28
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Good job.... Oh la la got to like ur family's excitement too.... Ur a true enthusiast and welcome to the boosted world


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Old 11-15-2013, 04:09 PM   #29
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I have a quick little update. I was able to take the car out on Wednesday and it drove fine on the way to school. After class I had a friend come for a ride along to help setup the boost controller. As we did a few short pulls the car kept overboosting even when we dropped the duty cycle to zero and just ran on the 7lb wastegate spring. After the 3rd pull I let off the gas and the car started to misfire so we pulled over to see if anything was out of the ordinary but everything looked fine. I gave Mike a call and we think that the MAF may be causing the misfire issue, but it only acts up after going into boost.

After I had someone pick me up and got my laptop charged to read the codes we found misfire codes for all cylinders except 5. We cleared the codes and tried starting it up a few times but the misfires kept coming back, this time in only 3 cylinders. We ended up swapping the coils and limped it to a friend's house for the night.

Yesterday I got a chance to pull the plugs and test the coils, one of the coils was not working at all but we still had a misfire in another cylinder which seems to follow the coil according to the codes. I'll be ordering a new set of coils to be on the safe side and keep the 4 working ones as backup but I don't think I'll have the car back on the road before the snow falls. I have a friend who offered to come and help me do a compression test to see if there may be any other issues. I'm still kind of baffled as to why the coils decided to let go right after boosting the car but it may just be a coincidence.




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Old 11-15-2013, 04:49 PM   #30
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A stock engine is already prone to have coils issues. A boosted m3 increase even more those issues. This is related to the poor ventilation on the coils area and therefore to the extreme heat. You can try to vent that area with a duct similiar to what hpf did or buy plasma coils and never worry with it in the future.
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Old 11-15-2013, 06:56 PM   #31
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A stock engine is already prone to have coils issues. A boosted m3 increase even more those issues. This is related to the poor ventilation on the coils area and therefore to the extreme heat. You can try to vent that area with a duct similiar to what hpf did or buy plasma coils and never worry with it in the future.


Not entirely True Tiago.....

I'm Boosted, with Okada Plasma Coils and i just had 1 more fail @ the Texas Mile event 3 weeks ago....that makes 3 this year!

us Turbo S54s are having issues when in HIGH boost with Plasma coils too.
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Old 11-15-2013, 07:43 PM   #32
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Then the only solution for you is to vent the coils. For some reason hpf made that cf engine cover with integrated duct when started to sell high boost kits.
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Old 11-15-2013, 07:53 PM   #33
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Okada coils are garbage fyi.
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Old 11-16-2013, 10:02 AM   #34
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Okada coils are garbage fyi.
What r the best coils to go with now?


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Old 11-16-2013, 10:59 AM   #35
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What r the best coils to go with now?


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I thought the OE bosch coils are what most are going with?


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Old 11-16-2013, 11:03 AM   #36
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:53 PM   #37
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i need this in my life. good job OP.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:37 PM   #38
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i need this in my life. good job OP.
Thanks! It's been a lot of fun to drive during the very short time I actually got to drive it.

A few friends came over tonight and helped me with a compression test, the results were promising. Keep in mind this was done on a cold engine and cylinder 1 was a bit low since I forgot to press on the throttle.

Cylinder 1 - 150 psi
Cylinder 2 - 152 psi
Cylinder 3 - 155 psi
Cylinder 4 - 156 psi
Cylinder 5 - 155psi
Cylinder 6 - 155psi

Now I have a question about the coils. When I type in the part number off my current coils I get referred to the updated part number 12137551260 (Bremi). When I looked on RealOEM and ECSTuning there are 2 other part numbers numbers, 12137594937 (Bosch) and 12131712219(Bremi/Bosch). Does anyone know if there is any major performance difference between them? Also is it worth it to replace all of them at the same time or should I just buy a couple as backup and replace as they go? (I'm thinking the former)

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Old 11-17-2013, 08:17 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Nabs View Post
Thanks! It's been a lot of fun to drive during the very short time I actually got to drive it.

A few friends came over tonight and helped me with a compression test, the results were promising. Keep in mind this was done on a cold engine and cylinder 1 was a bit low since I forgot to press on the throttle.

Cylinder 1 - 150 psi
Cylinder 2 - 152 psi
Cylinder 3 - 155 psi
Cylinder 4 - 156 psi
Cylinder 5 - 155psi
Cylinder 6 - 155psi

Now I have a question about the coils. When I type in the part number off my current coils I get referred to the updated part number 12137551260 (Bremi). When I looked on RealOEM and ECSTuning there are 2 other part numbers numbers, 12137594937 (Bosch) and 12131712219(Bremi/Bosch). Does anyone know if there is any major performance difference between them? Also is it worth it to replace all of them at the same time or should I just buy a couple as backup and replace as they go? (I'm thinking the former)
It's a good Idea to have the idle control valve unplugged or even the throttle linkage so the butterflies don't open and close throwing off the readings. If u put a squirt of oil in after and the pressure goes up then u know its rings that have some leakage and not head gasket or valves.


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Old 11-17-2013, 10:23 PM   #40
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I always like to do a hot and cold compression tests. Just get the bosch coils from rockauto.com they are $25 each.


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