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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 10-28-2013, 07:44 PM   #1
UDown0311
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Texas
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My Ride: '04 330ci ZHP
Crankshaft bolt removal

Does anyone have any experience in this. I've got the special BMW crankshaft holding tool on there, its in TDC, I've let bolt breaking fluid sit in it and I've hit it with 570 pounds of torque from my impact drill. Im thinking of heating it with a blow torch but I dont want to risk stripping it.

Who has successfully removed one of these and what did it take?

Last edited by UDown0311; 10-28-2013 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:07 AM   #2
jjrichar
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Don't use any heat. It will come off with a breaker bar and an extension of about 2 meters on it. I did this with the engine out of the car so it made it much easier to manipulate the holding tool as well as the breaker bar with the extension. The bolt on the outside probably looks rusted. Don't let this worry you. Underneath it will be nice and clean. It just takes a whole load of torque to get it off.
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Old 10-29-2013, 03:54 AM   #3
jfp2999
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odd

are you using air or hand tools/ I prefer air because it prevents having to hold the pulley to prevent turning but either way make sure you use 1/2 inch sockets to get that strength when breaking it also use a long cheater pipe and I cant remember but make sure it isn't left hand threaded/
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:41 PM   #4
jjrichar
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It's not left hand threaded
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Old 10-29-2013, 10:45 PM   #5
UDown0311
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The original thread for this topic is in the General Forum, but I'm going to post in here what I did to get this thing out in case anyone needs it for reference.

Tools required:
1. BMW special tools 118-190 and 118-200 (not necessarily required but HIGHLY recommended - using anything else may yield undesired results)
2. Impact wrench (725 ft. lbs. or higher) OR torque multiplier OR breaker bar with a long cheater bar (3' to 4')
3. 22mm deep socket (short ones MAY work, but a deep socket is recommended)
4. A good bolt releasing compound (I used Breaker)
5. Metal hammer

It's a simple procedure, the hardest part is gathering the tools if you don't already have them.

In order to free the crankshaft bolt you need to keep the crankshaft pulley/damper from spinning. Some people have had success using the flywheel locking pin, but the Bentley Manual DOES NOT recommend this and suggests using the pulley holding tool (1). It's actually two separate pieces that you put together to make one tool. I personally spent the $120 plus shipping for the tool because the risk of having the flywheel pin break inside my transmission was not worth it. Ultimately it's up to you.

Using the tool is pretty straight forward. Align the three notches on the tool to the three notches on the pulley. You may have to use the metal hammer (5) to really get it seated in there. Use the tool to keep the pulley from spinning by either having someone hold it or by supporting the tool's long handle on the metal frame of the bumper impact absorbers.

I let the bolt soak in the Breaker compound (4) for two days before doing anything. You may not have to do this but I thought it would make things easier (it did). At first I used a 500 ft. lb. impact wrench with the 22mm socket (3). It didn't do anything. Then I upgraded to a 725 ft. lb. impact wrench (2) same socket. I impacted the bolt for a solid 60 seconds before deciding it wasn't going to budge. I pulled out my 1/2 drive breaker bar and used a 3' cheater bar (2), same socket, and with one hand I was able to turn the bolt relatively easily.

There you go, stubborn ass bolt removed.

I think that letting the bolt soak improves your chances of removing it. I also think that if I had been a bit more patient with the impact wrench it would have come off. Using only a cheater bar could work, but I imagine it would require much more effort and you run a risk of rounding the bolt off. A torque multiplier would have been ideal, but they're expensive (almost as much as my entire pneumatic set up) and I couldn't find anyone who had them available for rent, let alone for sale (but I'm on an island so you might have better luck than me). Whatever you decide, be patient, use a bolt breaking compound, and try to stay away from heat and drills. It can be done without them.

I recommend replacing the bolt after you remove it. No need to use any locking compound.

Factory torque settings for the bolt = 300 ft. lbs.

Good luck!

Last edited by UDown0311; 10-29-2013 at 10:48 PM.
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