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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 10-29-2013, 09:48 PM   #1
Dr.frankinstein
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Cold misfire ????

Well my 2001 330xi has a misfire on cold morning no check engine light, codes or anything. It goes away in about 1 min. Car has 149xxx miles on it. Common problem? Any suggestions?


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Old 10-30-2013, 07:09 AM   #2
Kubica
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Scan codes first.
Fill up with shell 93 and a bottle of techron.
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Old 10-30-2013, 09:14 AM   #3
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Check intake boot for leaks.
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:28 PM   #4
SicStang03
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Same thing happened to me after I didn't move the car for 2 weeks. 2 days later my alternator died... coincidence? I dunno. It hasn't happened since then.
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Old 10-30-2013, 02:37 PM   #5
jasonbimmer
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I noticed every time I started my car cold for the first 5-10 seconds it would shake a little like misfire then goes away. I say its normal.
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:59 PM   #6
Dr.frankinstein
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Cold misfire ????

There is no codes and data all looks normal intake boot looks good


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Old 10-30-2013, 04:06 PM   #7
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my scanner shows a pending misfire code. I've had this same problem for years, nothing has made it go away.
no SES though, that would be a confirmed code
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:52 PM   #8
Dr.frankinstein
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Cold misfire ????

It would be word if bmw put out a car that misfires I'm the harsh winter never for this to me before and I don't care for it I wish something would come up on the scanner.


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Old 10-30-2013, 09:00 PM   #9
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I've had it for a bit now, slowly eliminating causes.
At first there was no SES light but then it came on and showed misfires. Then it went away, then came back again...it's annoying.
It used to be pretty bad to the point where it'd stall out at times, but got a new oil separator valve and that helped significantly.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:22 AM   #10
SamDoe1
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Originally Posted by Dr.frankinstein View Post
There is no codes and data all looks normal intake boot looks good


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Did you take everything out and look at the lower intake boot? If not, that's where tears most often occur.

Also what engine work have you done on the car from ~95k miles to present?

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Old 11-04-2013, 07:58 PM   #11
neutron325
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My car has the same problem. Ive done the intake boot and I replaced the vacuum line to the SAP. Mine usually straightens out right about the time the SAP shuts off. I thought for sure the vacuum line was the cause, but no dice.

I have a transient misfire on #3, but no CEL.


Every once in a while the car starts to lose more than one cylinder, shakes violently and the Service engine light comes on. If I shut it down and restart it, everything is fine.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:06 AM   #12
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So I have been away from this for a while. I am not sure if this was the exact problem or not but the car finally broke.

The wife was driving to work and it died at a stop light. The car will not start or crank at all. I tow the car home and look at it a little bit low and behold the car is hydro locked with oil. The osv valve had failed it was -27 that morning. So I replaced it with a cold weather one new hoses cleaned out the dipstick it was fine for quite a while then I was driving home from work and the valve cover exploded! It did it again wtf! Got a new valve cover fixe it again and have not had it cold misfire since. I'm hoping it stays that way.


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Old 02-24-2014, 06:50 PM   #13
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A clogged CCV and/or its hoses can do several things. It can make the car run badly, it can make the car use oil, the built up pressure can blow out the valve cover gasket or it can crack the valve cover itself or it can build up enough pressure to "hypo lock" the engine. If there is a lot of the "white goo" on the inside of the oil filler cap and on the dip stick, along with replacing the CCV and its hoses, either cleaning out the dip stick tube or replacing it with the upgraded one, you should also remove the valve cover and clean the inside thoroughly and replace the valve cover gasket. You will always get some condensation in the system, even when everything is clean and new, but too much "white goo" build up will eventually create problems as stated previously.
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Old 02-24-2014, 10:17 PM   #14
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Tomoyer is correct for temps in the -10 to 32F range. However, -27 is near kelvin zero where molecules no longer move. Okay, that would be -273C for absolute zero but you get my point. One hopes a new CCV will be a cure all for bad winter temps but -27 is scary for any trapped water potentially freezing and obstructing pipes. Are block heaters popular in Indiana?
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:58 AM   #15
Dr.frankinstein
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I live in wi. Replaced CCv then valve cover exploded a couple weeks later still fighting this car
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