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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 11-20-2013, 10:53 AM   #41
bee-em-dougle-u
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There's wayyyyy too much paranoia happening on these forums. I remember someone made a freakout thread because they floored their car before it warmed up
Yes. You certainly can't begrudge anyone from getting one of these Blackstone reports, as it's interesting data. But personally, as long as the engine's running great, the car's not throwing any codes, maintenance is up to date and I'm changing the oil/filter at 7500-mile intervals, I'm not going to order a report that could potentially cause worry and hand-wringing. I suppose my view is a bit more fatalistic than most, but if I do have a catastrophic engine failure, the AAA membership is paid in full, and in all likelihood I'll be within 20 miles of home. On eBay alone, at last count there were 17 or so used E46 engines ranging from about $1000 to $2200, and I have a friend who's a salvage guru who can pin down anything I'm looking for. I'd rent a cherry-picker hoist and plop in another engine as a (long) weekend project.

Like the OP, I'm going for 200K miles as well!
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Last edited by bee-em-dougle-u; 11-20-2013 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 11-20-2013, 11:05 AM   #42
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OE oil from BMW is garbage and shouldn't be used in an M54 or M56.
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Care to explain? My indy shop insists all OEM parts and oils for non-Ms and sells BMW oil at their shop.
Kubica likes to troll the forum. Notice that no one else responded to him.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:03 PM   #43
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Kubica likes to troll the forum. Notice that no one else responded to him.
Why would you use a Group III oil that is hydrocracked and not a true synthetic when there are Group IV available for about the same price?

BMW oil sheers like crazy at higher rpms. Motul is a much better choice.

Since there are better options available, BMW oil should not be used.
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Old 11-20-2013, 02:23 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
Why would you use a Group III oil that is hydrocracked and not a true synthetic when there are Group IV available for about the same price?

BMW oil sheers like crazy at higher rpms. Motul is a much better choice.

Since there are better options available, BMW oil should not be used.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:02 PM   #45
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I see, makes sense now.

Do you suspect your engine is not running right at this point?

As mentioned already, check coolant temps. Also see if engine burns oil and scan your engine codes. If all of it checks out to be OK, then in my opinion you should not worry much.
For rest assurance, please use proper oil type.
No. Engine is running perfect as far as I can tell.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:13 PM   #46
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+1

So since there are nicer cars out there, why are we all driving decade old cars? These should not be used.
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Old 11-20-2013, 06:49 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
Why would you use a Group III oil that is hydrocracked and not a true synthetic when there are Group IV available for about the same price?

BMW oil sheers like crazy at higher rpms. Motul is a much better choice.

Since there are better options available, BMW oil should not be used.
Despite the terminology differences (i.e "full synthetic" vs "synthetic blend") there isn't a huge difference between group III and IV today. The chemistry behind both methods is pretty sophisticated today, and the practical differences are insignificant compared to the actual additive packages.

I also suspect the formulation in general has changed relatively recently. In both my dad's N54's case and my friend's ZHP's case, the BMW oil ended up being thicker than what Blackstone predicted. Castrol has changed a lot of oils this past year, and I wouldn't be surprised if BMW's 5w-30 was one of them.
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:33 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Kubica View Post
Why would you use a Group III oil that is hydrocracked and not a true synthetic when there are Group IV available for about the same price?

BMW oil sheers like crazy at higher rpms. Motul is a much better choice.

Since there are better options available, BMW oil should not be used.
Again, WHERE ARE THE UOA's TO PROVE THIS????????????????????
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:41 AM   #49
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Kubica likes to troll the forum. Notice that no one else responded to him.
I would tend to agree with him. It may not be garbage but there are much better oils out there than the BMW Castrol. I've had two well respected experts, one in the oil analysis biz and the other a highly regarded BMW author both tell me (through correspondence with them) not to use BMW oil but something else.

I don't want to use their names publicly but I'll PM them to anyone interested. I stopped using the BMW oil over 100,000 miles ago (soon as I was out of warranty), the car is running fantastic.
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:04 PM   #50
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:07 PM   #51
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:08 PM   #52
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You can check out my UOAs at BITOG, most of my UOAs are from the time I lived in Houston, from about Jan 2005 to December 2009 my commute was less than 5 miles. I also have 5000 mile UOAs with BMW 5w-30, it worked well in the 330Ci. You can compare the wear in 5-6000 mile changes to the more recent 7-8000 mile ones.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2709536

The 06/09 dated UOAs are the same fill of oil, I made a trip from Houston to Indiana and back after the first UOA, about 2000 highway miles in two days driving.
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Old 11-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #53
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You can check out my UOAs at BITOG, most of my UOAs are from the time I lived in Houston, from about Jan 2005 to December 2009 my commute was less than 5 miles. I also have 5000 mile UOAs with BMW 5w-30, it worked well in the 330Ci. You can compare the wear in 5-6000 mile changes to the more recent 7-8000 mile ones.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2709536

The 06/09 dated UOAs are the same fill of oil, I made a trip from Houston to Indiana and back after the first UOA, about 2000 highway miles in two days driving.
Very thorough, great info here.
Sorry for asking a somewhat offtopic question, but the Molybdenum content in these oil analyses looks interesting. The Mo is low in all Castrol 0W-30 samples and in some RL 5W-40, but much higher in all others.
This seems to correlate with the amount of Copper, but not the other metals.

Thoughts on this?
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Old 12-12-2013, 04:28 PM   #54
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Originally Posted by Megalocnus View Post
Very thorough, great info here.
Sorry for asking a somewhat offtopic question, but the Molybdenum content in these oil analyses looks interesting. The Mo is low in all Castrol 0W-30 samples and in some RL 5W-40, but much higher in all others.
This seems to correlate with the amount of Copper, but not the other metals.

Thoughts on this?
Mmmmmm.

The Castrol 0w-30 also known on BITOG as GC (German Castrol) did not have any moly as an additive. The low moly readings are actually from the previous oil in use (BMW 5w-30 has about 100-130 ppm of moly). When you drain your oil you still have some of the old oil left over, in my case it seems to work out to about 15% based on the moly levels.

Red Line changed their 5w-40 about the time I changed to it, they removed the moly to help meet a new diesel oil spec I believe. I had some of both formulas of Red Line 5w-40.

For the copper, I seem to have higher copper levels when the Oil changes include a track day or two. I know my oil temps get into the 240-260F degree range on some of the track days (maybe higher) I do have a oil temp gauge but the ECU oil temp normally reads about 30F higher oil temps than my gauge due to the location of the oil temp sensor.

I don't think the moly actually affects the copper readings at all.
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