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Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > The Showroom

The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 12-01-2013, 02:26 AM   #21
Flop
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Originally Posted by choxor View Post
Ever wonder why we have a showroom section?
Haters gonna hate...

But in all seriousness, I agree with you. Just requested that the mods move it for me.
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:32 PM   #22
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Welcome fellow Portlander!
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Old 12-01-2013, 12:47 PM   #23
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Project "D-D/D" (daily driver/drifter) | 330Ci Build Thread

what exactly i want to do to my car! subscribe!


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Old 12-01-2013, 01:04 PM   #24
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Old 12-01-2013, 08:04 PM   #25
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Small update.

Finally got my ZHP shift knob on. I didn't believe changing the knob could make such a difference. Boy was I wrong. Shifts are crisper and just feel more "solid".



I can't imagine what shifting will be like once all of this goes on


Last edited by Flop; 12-05-2013 at 12:40 AM.
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Old 12-13-2013, 08:46 PM   #26
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Time to start "solidifying" the rear end.

These will be going in later this month:
- AKG aluminum subframe bushings
- AKG 95a differential bushings (to hopefully tame diff whine)
- Turner subframe reinforcement kit

Stay tuned for install pics!

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Old 12-13-2013, 08:52 PM   #27
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Re: Project "D-D/D" (daily driver/drifter) | 330Ci Build Thread

Are solid bushings recommended for daily driving at all?

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Old 12-13-2013, 08:57 PM   #28
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Are solid bushings recommended for daily driving at all?

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Not really. But neither is a welded diff.
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Old 12-13-2013, 09:09 PM   #29
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Flop, meet Teddy7: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...0006&highlight=

I think you have a lot in common....
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:03 AM   #30
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Awesome car, love the colour !
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Old 12-14-2013, 12:41 PM   #31
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Mason Engineering makes a nice rear subframe support/rear strut bar that should be good for distributing the subframe loads since the rear floors are so weak. Will work well when combined with subframe reinforcement. Also I hope you're not doing solid motor/trans mounts, there is quite a bit of documentation of them causing a lot of things to vibrate/loosen. A good stiff poly or E9x M3 mounts should be sufficient for your purposes. Lastly...you might want to think about securing the OPN. Looking forward to seeing the build progress!


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Old 12-15-2013, 04:19 PM   #32
Flop
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Originally Posted by dreamdrivedrift View Post
Mason Engineering makes a nice rear subframe support/rear strut bar that should be good for distributing the subframe loads since the rear floors are so weak. Will work well when combined with subframe reinforcement. Also I hope you're not doing solid motor/trans mounts, there is quite a bit of documentation of them causing a lot of things to vibrate/loosen. A good stiff poly or E9x M3 mounts should be sufficient for your purposes. Lastly...you might want to think about securing the OPN. Looking forward to seeing the build progress!


I plan on fabricating something very similar to the mason engineering unit, except it will be welded in.

And I have heard horror stories about solid motor/tranny mounts! I have the UUC (I think) isolated tranny mounts that will be going in shortly, which seem to have great reviews. Still undecided about motor mounts, but nothing too aggressive.

Securing the OPN? Please explain!

Last edited by Flop; 12-15-2013 at 04:19 PM.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:47 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by wildirish317 View Post
Flop, meet Teddy7: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...0006&highlight=

I think you have a lot in common....
lol, thanks irish
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:06 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Avetiso View Post
Are solid bushings recommended for daily driving at all?

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In my opinion, they should be recommended on all e46's even though they aren't. The solid subframe bushings will help to not only provide a larger mating surface at each mount but also will aid in preventing deflection under acceleration/braking. I strongly believe this extra rigidity will extend the life of any e46 subframe especially when paired with a reinforcement. The best combo for lasting life of the subframe, in my opinion, would be solid subframe bushings with stock rubber diff bushings. That way your diff transmits the least force on the subframe and your subframe is mounted the best that it can be.

I personally have solid subframe and diff mounts, but looking back, OP's combo of solid subframe and 95A diff bushings is probably what I should have went with.
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:07 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Flop View Post
I plan on fabricating something very similar to the mason engineering unit, except it will be welded in.

And I have heard horror stories about solid motor/tranny mounts! I have the UUC (I think) isolated tranny mounts that will be going in shortly, which seem to have great reviews. Still undecided about motor mounts, but nothing too aggressive.

Securing the OPN? Please explain!
I'm glad you are going with a welded unit. The mason product seems to be constructed very well, but for the money, you can basically cage the trunk area properly.

As for the tranny/motor mount discussion, I simply went with oem M3 trans and motor mounts. I thought about going poly, but also heard the horror stories as well. The M3 mounts are great. Very firm with no unnecessary noise increase.

Subscribed and excited to watch your progress. Good luck!.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:29 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Teddy7 View Post
In my opinion, they should be recommended on all e46's even though they aren't. The solid subframe bushings will help to not only provide a larger mating surface at each mount but also will aid in preventing deflection under acceleration/braking. I strongly believe this extra rigidity will extend the life of any e46 subframe especially when paired with a reinforcement. The best combo for lasting life of the subframe, in my opinion, would be solid subframe bushings with stock rubber diff bushings. That way your diff transmits the least force on the subframe and your subframe is mounted the best that it can be.

I personally have solid subframe and diff mounts, but looking back, OP's combo of solid subframe and 95A diff bushings is probably what I should have went with.
Those are my thoughts exactly. I was STRONGLY advised by AKG to not go with solid subframe bushings on a DD. However, I think if done right (reinforced subframe and integrated rear strut bar), it is the best option. The front subframe and one of the suspension mounting points are solidly mounted to the chassis, why shouldn't the rear? And like you said, if vibrations are an issue, I can always pop in OEM diff bushings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teddy7 View Post
I'm glad you are going with a welded unit. The mason product seems to be constructed very well, but for the money, you can basically cage the trunk area properly.

As for the tranny/motor mount discussion, I simply went with oem M3 trans and motor mounts. I thought about going poly, but also heard the horror stories as well. The M3 mounts are great. Very firm with no unnecessary noise increase.

Subscribed and excited to watch your progress. Good luck!.
Thanks! I'm sure I will have some build/drift questions for you later down the line!
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:33 PM   #37
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Christmas Update!

I have been working on the car for about 2.5 days solid now.

Completed so far:
- All subframe and differential bushings replaced with AKG units
- Turner subframe plates are in (more on this below)
- Rear strut tower bar with integrated subframe reinforcement has been fabbed (just needs to be painted and welded in).
- Picked up a 3.38 differential and welded her up
- Rebuilt shifter with all new bushings and components (shifts like a DREAM!)
- Replaced transmission mounts with UUC isolated units

Still to do:
- Stainless brake lines
- Clutch delay valve delete
- Put everything back together!

More on the subframe plates:
For multiple reasons, I have decided to JB Weld the front plates to the unibody. The first reason is that they are in very close proximity to the gas tank, and welding in that area scares the crap out of me. Second, I believe that JB welding the front plates in creates a MORE structurally sound and strong subframe mounting point versus welding. Reason being is that the entire mounting surface is bonded to the plate, rather than just one plug weld and around the edge.

I would not recommend JB Welding the rear plates in, though. The mounting surface is not flat and would not work as well with JB Weld like the fronts. The reason the front plates work so well with JB Weld is that the mounting surface is very flat and they can be clamped TIGHT with the subframe stud, creating a very strong bond.

Alright, onto the pics.

Jacked up nice and tall (this was quite the process to do)




First thing out, exhaust.




Subframe out.


Easiest way to deal with the hand-brake cables is to disconnect them front center-console area.




Getting the subframe bushings out was easier than I expected. Get a strong drill and start drilling out the rubber portion, hammer out the center aluminum piece, and then use a flat chisel to start crumpling the bushing into itself.


All out!


The large rear diff bushing was a bit harder. I tried the subframe bushing method, but the outer sleeve is steel, not aluminum, and wouldn't crumple. As a result, I ended up making up a puller real quick and pulled the bushing out. That thing was in there TIGHT.




I inspected the subframe mounts... No Cracks!! I was very happy to see this.






Use thermal expansion to your advantage. Subframe bushings go in the freezer, and the receiving holes het heated. The bushings slipped in with minimal pounding. Make sure to use a block of wood or equivalent, as to not dent the aluminum. You can also see I lined the holes with anti-sieze, just incase I ever want to remove them.






Note about the AKG bushings. The rear lower bushings were VERY loose in the bushing holes. So loose that I had to make 3 dimples on each side of the steel to keep them from vibrating around. Because of this, I would not recommend AKG aluminum bushings. I have not heard of other aluminum bushings from different vendors having this problem.

New diff bushings installed.


Rear plates welded in. Not my best work, but it will do.


Front plates bonded.


No cracks!


A common upgrade for the E46 is to use the E60 shifter. I couldn't find definitive evidence on this board whether or not it would work with 6 speed transmissions, so I gave it a shot. The E60 shifter is IDENTICAL in length (below and above the shift ball) to the stock 6 speed shifter.


New bushings and components.


Starting the rear reinforcement bar. These plates will get welded to the strut tower, and those holes will be plug welded.


Mocked up.


All fabbed up. Just needs to be painted and welded in.


More updates to come in the next few days
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Old 12-27-2013, 01:55 PM   #38
Zatarain
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When you put in the spacers, did you use the same lug bolts or did you have to buy longer ones?
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Old 12-27-2013, 02:30 PM   #39
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When you put in the spacers, did you use the same lug bolts or did you have to buy longer ones?
Longer ones definitely. The stock ones won't even reach the threads with the spacers!

I bought the ECS spacer kits, which came with lug bolts.
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Old 12-27-2013, 02:35 PM   #40
Zatarain
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Longer ones definitely. The stock ones won't even reach the threads with the spacers!

I bought the ECS spacer kits, which came with lug bolts.
Oh nice, thanks for the info man. Real nice car by the way.
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