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Old 12-28-2013, 04:42 AM   #1
Davew
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 952
My Ride: 2004 330ci Msport
330ci ess ts2+

Hi all, I have been doing my build thread in the Australian forum of this site, and would like comments and suggestions from the wider fanatics community.

My car is a 2004 330ci Motorsport, with smg (ssg) 6 speed. Although I would have liked a manual, my clutch knee is buggered, so not an option, and in the ssg's defence, it has held up so far!

Probably a good time also to mention this is my daily driver

List of mods:

Stage 3 ported technik head, oversize valves, double valve springs, titanium retainers, etc.

248/256 schrick cams

Raceware head stud kit

New hydraulic cam followers

M3 chain tensioner

New cam sprockets, chains, guides, etc. Chain are iwis race grade chains.

ATI super balancer

Ess TS2+

S54 headers, modded with 2.5 collectors, Y piece into single 3 inch, race cat (100 cel), two un-baffled mufflers. All 304 stainless steel.

Besian vanos seals

Reservoir for liquid intercooler

Samco radiator hoses

Samco intake boot

M division brake rotors

Zionsville competition radiator kit

Zionsville billet thermostat housing

80 degree Celsius mechanical thermostat

EMP Stewart water pump

Custom 78mm supercharger pulley

Turner sways front and rear

Turner urethane engine and trans mounts

Bilstein ride control coil overs

Custom in bumper cold air intake (K&N 6x9 inch filter)


Have probably left a few items out, I will edit as I remember lol.


Mid term would be chassis reinforcement and engine oil cooler

Longer term would be bottom end full rebuild, which I will go to town on. Would love to go ts3 at that point, but apparently there are software issues with ts3 and ssg Minimum will be all forged items and balanced

Any advice/ direction would be appreciated

Dyno results attached (dyno results are with slipped camshaft, no headers or cold air intake)

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Hp at the crank and a/f

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kW at the crank and torque

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Hp At the wheels and torque




Edit: 150,000km on the bottom end




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Last edited by Davew; 08-21-2014 at 06:40 AM. Reason: Updated mods
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Old 12-28-2013, 07:53 AM   #2
jdny516
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 1,086
My Ride: E39 ///M5
Really good numbers! ESS makes the perfect S/C for E46
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2000 ///M5 ///M Registry
Oxford Green Metallic II (430) | Caramel Nappa Leather (M3CR) | Brushed Aluminum Interior |
Tuning Tech Frank Smith Tune
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Last edited by jdny516; 12-28-2013 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:44 AM   #3
jdjg
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Location: Panama City, Panama
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My Ride: e39, m52tub30
330ci ess ts2+

nice bro....
Im just waiting for my ESS T2+ SC, I need to wait 2 more weeks......
nice numbers, when I installed my SC, I will post my numbers......

regards,


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Old 12-28-2013, 08:44 AM   #4
nleksan
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Cincinnati
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My Ride: 328Ci, 325i, 740i
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Running a "custom TSE3" myself (non-ESS supported), on a fully built M52TuB28 in my 328Ci w a 6MT swap from an 06 ZHP.

I have had the car since the first week of 2006, and it's gone through a number of transformations as I, and it, have aged and matured; suspension has been fully reworked 3 times, 5 brake kits, probably two dozen wheel sets, various exterior "setups", and the engine has goneffrom stock to mild bolt ons, to pushing it N/A As much as possible without getting into the bottom end (a new head with flow benching followed by porting, all new valvetrain from VAC/BW, Schrick cams, radiused valve job, etc) + the full bolt on monty, and finally a fresh ground up boost oriented build designed to support over 20psi @ 10.5:1 CR up to 7900rpm.

Needless to say, it has been anything but a cheap journey, and I would have saved tens upon tens of thousands had I done everything "right" the first time. Still, it's the journey, not the destination, right?


I can give you some advice, but know that this is based solely on my experience and may well conflict with others experience...

- At this level, maintenance is the difference between a perfect car and a junked $20,000 motor, and I personally have cut every single interval in half (oil every 3-5k, trans/diff every 15k, brake fluid every year and bleed every event, PS Fluid I do the turkey baster method and empty/fill reservoir every oil change, fuel filter every 15k, coolant in a 35/65 coolant/water ratio w a bottle or two RL WW every year, etc)
- I have saved thousands upon thousands by doing two things: first is that I always upgrade parts when they need replacing (for example, cooling system: Stewart pump, Samco/Stett/BW hoses, MS thermo, CR/Zionsville radiator, VAC Superlight U/D pulleys, etc), and second is to save up parts until you can have an entire section if the car worked on at once (suspension and drivetrain, for example, as my M3 ZCP is: dropped entire suspension, exhaust, both axles, and diff; JRZ 3-way coils, Hotchkis sways, OS Giken 3.55:1 28-clutch LSD w finned cover, TMS semi-solid diff mounts/bushings, RE RSM, AKG 75D subframe bushings, TMS full chassis weld in reinforcement kit, TMS Adj rear camber arms, RE RTAB + TMS limiter, TMS upper rear control arm bearings, Mahle HD FCA's + AKG FCAB's, GC Camber plates, BW Engine + Transmission "race" mounts, Meyle HD endlinks, Mason Engineering front steel strut brace + rear 3pt strut brace + rear brace to subframe X-Brace, custom front chassis X-Brace from TiG welded Chromoly steel tube, transmission tunnel and exhaust tunnel covered in "gold" reflective foil, AKG steering rack joint, custom CF single piece driveshaft, UUC EVO3+DSSR and ZHP 6spd knob, and a fair amount more; all the suspension parts not already properly finished were powder coated medium black, and the entire car underside was cleaned then resprayed Alpine White and it along with all components were film coat treated for anti-corrosion). Doing all that at once, at a friend'sshop and II have him "un-rush" it which, along with me actively working with him, resulted in a total labor charge of $1000 even, plus another $500 for paint and powder coating. It will be significantly more than that if you are not good friends with the mechanic, but it would still cost way more to split it into multiple jobs as you are disassembling the parts more times than necessary.
- DO NOT WAIT on the subframe reinforcements! And don't settle for anything less than weld-in done by a true professional! I had subframe cracking on my 328Ci just weeks after I gotit, and while BMWNA footed the bill ($9,800), I demanded that the repairs be done to the level that they're willing to warranty it for life, and that simply putting the same factory parts back I wasn't acceptable, because this is a major safety hazard. They ended up putting in an entire M3 rear end, and welding the trouble spots (the body shop doing the work said that was the only thing they felt comfortable with).

- Suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires should be upgraded to a level beyond what the engine is capable of, because in my opinion you can never have too much traction, brakes, or control.
- I would suggest at least a front, entry level big brake kit, and ideally a four-wheel StopTech/AP Racing/PFC setup. I would say that a Wilwood 4-wheel kit would be a great place to start, with the 6P/4P Superlight calipers. The StopTech ST60/ST40 is a step up, then AP Racing, then the StopTech Trophy kit, then PFC. 355mm front is the biggest rotor size to get, 380mm just adds weight and has no real benefits outside serious endurance racing. Regardless of what kit, always get 2pc floating rotors. I prefer slotted, avoid drilled. For a front only BBK, upgrade the rears w caliper rebuild kit, SS lines, brass bushings, slotted rotors, and equivalent pads to the front. For fluid, I have had ATE boil on me multiple times, with stock type brakes and even w my Trophy kit, but Motul RBF600/660 has never even gotten soft on me. It's a truly superior, in every way, fluid.

- IDK what wheels you have, but recommend spending some money on quality 18's or 19's, and honestly for Street use, the only downsideto 19s is a very aslightly harsher ride and more expensive tires, but they do look so much better in mostcases. I hhave 18s for track, 19s for Street. I would recommend a setup along the lines of 19x8.5-9 et32 to et38 front and 19x9.5-10 et38 to et45 in back, with 235-255 width front and 255-275 width rear tires. You can fit this w a bit of fender pulling, and the extra traction and wider track is worth it (I have my fenders cut, pulled, welded, formed, etc; extra 1 3/4+ inch per corner, bit less front, bit more rear).

- A Limited Slip Differential is a must have upgrade, IMO, for these cars when putting down the kind of power our TS setups make. I tried the 2-3 clutch setups, but I would only recommend an OS Giken unit anymore. The difference is huge, with progressive and smooth breakaway and lockup.
__________________
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- DPE - Apex - BBS - PFC 6/4 2pc BBK - KW Clubsport - PowerFlex -
- M-Tech - Rogue Engineering - Ground Control - Odyssey -
- Hotchkis - AFE - UUC - AKG - Dinan - VAC - TC Kline -
- TMS - OS Giken - SuperSprint - Vorsteiner - Recaro - Samco - Fluidyne - MORE! -
GARAGE:
- 2000 328Ci Topaz 6MT-Swap ZSP/ZPP/ZCW/HID/HK (Street/Track)
- 2001 325i TiAg 5MT/ZSP/ZCW (Street)
- 2006 M3 ZCP AW/IR 6MT/ZCP/HID (Street)
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:58 AM   #5
jdjg
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Panama City, Panama
Posts: 293
My Ride: e39, m52tub30
330ci ess ts2+

Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post
Running a "custom TSE3" myself (non-ESS supported), on a fully built M52TuB28 in my 328Ci w a 6MT swap from an 06 ZHP.

I have had the car since the first week of 2006, and it's gone through a number of transformations as I, and it, have aged and matured; suspension has been fully reworked 3 times, 5 brake kits, probably two dozen wheel sets, various exterior "setups", and the engine has goneffrom stock to mild bolt ons, to pushing it N/A As much as possible without getting into the bottom end (a new head with flow benching followed by porting, all new valvetrain from VAC/BW, Schrick cams, radiused valve job, etc) + the full bolt on monty, and finally a fresh ground up boost oriented build designed to support over 20psi @ 10.5:1 CR up to 7900rpm.

Needless to say, it has been anything but a cheap journey, and I would have saved tens upon tens of thousands had I done everything "right" the first time. Still, it's the journey, not the destination, right?


I can give you some advice, but know that this is based solely on my experience and may well conflict with others experience...

- At this level, maintenance is the difference between a perfect car and a junked $20,000 motor, and I personally have cut every single interval in half (oil every 3-5k, trans/diff every 15k, brake fluid every year and bleed every event, PS Fluid I do the turkey baster method and empty/fill reservoir every oil change, fuel filter every 15k, coolant in a 35/65 coolant/water ratio w a bottle or two RL WW every year, etc)
- I have saved thousands upon thousands by doing two things: first is that I always upgrade parts when they need replacing (for example, cooling system: Stewart pump, Samco/Stett/BW hoses, MS thermo, CR/Zionsville radiator, VAC Superlight U/D pulleys, etc), and second is to save up parts until you can have an entire section if the car worked on at once (suspension and drivetrain, for example, as my M3 ZCP is: dropped entire suspension, exhaust, both axles, and diff; JRZ 3-way coils, Hotchkis sways, OS Giken 3.55:1 28-clutch LSD w finned cover, TMS semi-solid diff mounts/bushings, RE RSM, AKG 75D subframe bushings, TMS full chassis weld in reinforcement kit, TMS Adj rear camber arms, RE RTAB + TMS limiter, TMS upper rear control arm bearings, Mahle HD FCA's + AKG FCAB's, GC Camber plates, BW Engine + Transmission "race" mounts, Meyle HD endlinks, Mason Engineering front steel strut brace + rear 3pt strut brace + rear brace to subframe X-Brace, custom front chassis X-Brace from TiG welded Chromoly steel tube, transmission tunnel and exhaust tunnel covered in "gold" reflective foil, AKG steering rack joint, custom CF single piece driveshaft, UUC EVO3+DSSR and ZHP 6spd knob, and a fair amount more; all the suspension parts not already properly finished were powder coated medium black, and the entire car underside was cleaned then resprayed Alpine White and it along with all components were film coat treated for anti-corrosion). Doing all that at once, at a friend'sshop and II have him "un-rush" it which, along with me actively working with him, resulted in a total labor charge of $1000 even, plus another $500 for paint and powder coating. It will be significantly more than that if you are not good friends with the mechanic, but it would still cost way more to split it into multiple jobs as you are disassembling the parts more times than necessary.
- DO NOT WAIT on the subframe reinforcements! And don't settle for anything less than weld-in done by a true professional! I had subframe cracking on my 328Ci just weeks after I gotit, and while BMWNA footed the bill ($9,800), I demanded that the repairs be done to the level that they're willing to warranty it for life, and that simply putting the same factory parts back I wasn't acceptable, because this is a major safety hazard. They ended up putting in an entire M3 rear end, and welding the trouble spots (the body shop doing the work said that was the only thing they felt comfortable with).

- Suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires should be upgraded to a level beyond what the engine is capable of, because in my opinion you can never have too much traction, brakes, or control.
- I would suggest at least a front, entry level big brake kit, and ideally a four-wheel StopTech/AP Racing/PFC setup. I would say that a Wilwood 4-wheel kit would be a great place to start, with the 6P/4P Superlight calipers. The StopTech ST60/ST40 is a step up, then AP Racing, then the StopTech Trophy kit, then PFC. 355mm front is the biggest rotor size to get, 380mm just adds weight and has no real benefits outside serious endurance racing. Regardless of what kit, always get 2pc floating rotors. I prefer slotted, avoid drilled. For a front only BBK, upgrade the rears w caliper rebuild kit, SS lines, brass bushings, slotted rotors, and equivalent pads to the front. For fluid, I have had ATE boil on me multiple times, with stock type brakes and even w my Trophy kit, but Motul RBF600/660 has never even gotten soft on me. It's a truly superior, in every way, fluid.

- IDK what wheels you have, but recommend spending some money on quality 18's or 19's, and honestly for Street use, the only downsideto 19s is a very aslightly harsher ride and more expensive tires, but they do look so much better in mostcases. I hhave 18s for track, 19s for Street. I would recommend a setup along the lines of 19x8.5-9 et32 to et38 front and 19x9.5-10 et38 to et45 in back, with 235-255 width front and 255-275 width rear tires. You can fit this w a bit of fender pulling, and the extra traction and wider track is worth it (I have my fenders cut, pulled, welded, formed, etc; extra 1 3/4+ inch per corner, bit less front, bit more rear).

- A Limited Slip Differential is a must have upgrade, IMO, for these cars when putting down the kind of power our TS setups make. I tried the 2-3 clutch setups, but I would only recommend an OS Giken unit anymore. The difference is huge, with progressive and smooth breakaway and lockup.
Nice write up bro...
can you please tell me more about your "custom" TS3 setup?
Im planing in buy the TS3 from ESS but Im wondering if with just only a more thicker head gasket its fine....

regards,


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Old 12-28-2013, 09:04 AM   #6
nleksan
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Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 727
My Ride: 328Ci, 325i, 740i
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I didn't use the ESS pistons, instead went with a full bottom rebuild and worked over head.

Some quick specs:
Carillo rods
JP pistons
ARP hardware
Blueprinted and knife edged crank (later went to dry sump, but the loss in weight still beneficial)
RWC treated bearings
86.5mm bore
Combustion chamber all Swain Tech coated

Flow benched and ported head
VAC Springs and Ti retainers
262/254 cams
RR BBTB
VAC Dampener
__________________
(Temporary Sig)

- DPE - Apex - BBS - PFC 6/4 2pc BBK - KW Clubsport - PowerFlex -
- M-Tech - Rogue Engineering - Ground Control - Odyssey -
- Hotchkis - AFE - UUC - AKG - Dinan - VAC - TC Kline -
- TMS - OS Giken - SuperSprint - Vorsteiner - Recaro - Samco - Fluidyne - MORE! -
GARAGE:
- 2000 328Ci Topaz 6MT-Swap ZSP/ZPP/ZCW/HID/HK (Street/Track)
- 2001 325i TiAg 5MT/ZSP/ZCW (Street)
- 2006 M3 ZCP AW/IR 6MT/ZCP/HID (Street)
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:10 AM   #7
jdjg
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Panama City, Panama
Posts: 293
My Ride: e39, m52tub30
330ci ess ts2+

Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post
I didn't use the ESS pistons, instead went with a full bottom rebuild and worked over head.

Some quick specs:
Carillo rods
JP pistons
ARP hardware
Blueprinted and knife edged crank (later went to dry sump, but the loss in weight still beneficial)
RWC treated bearings
86.5mm bore
Combustion chamber all Swain Tech coated

Flow benched and ported head
VAC Springs and Ti retainers
262/254 cams
RR BBTB
VAC Dampener
nice, thanks bro...
do you have dyno graphic? you have torque/hp numbers?

regards,


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Old 12-28-2013, 09:36 AM   #8
nleksan
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My Ride: 328Ci, 325i, 740i
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Somewhere, not on my phone tthough (I am actually at my grandmother's funeral, she finally lost her battle with lung cancer). I didn't r eally document my build as I wasn't active on any of the forums for a few years, got tired of the way E46F and BFc had become. I will look on some of my old hard drives when I get home (have built a new PC since; custom water cooled 3930K @ 5GHz 1.376v, RIVE, 16GB DDR3-2400 9-10-10, 2x 670FTW + 2x680Lightning for benching now 2x 780Ti Classifieds, Samsung 830 256GB, Plextor M5P-Xtreme 512GB, 2x WD10EZEX 1TB, 2x WD VR 500GB RAID0, 3x WD RE 3TB, Titanium HD, etc).
__________________
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- DPE - Apex - BBS - PFC 6/4 2pc BBK - KW Clubsport - PowerFlex -
- M-Tech - Rogue Engineering - Ground Control - Odyssey -
- Hotchkis - AFE - UUC - AKG - Dinan - VAC - TC Kline -
- TMS - OS Giken - SuperSprint - Vorsteiner - Recaro - Samco - Fluidyne - MORE! -
GARAGE:
- 2000 328Ci Topaz 6MT-Swap ZSP/ZPP/ZCW/HID/HK (Street/Track)
- 2001 325i TiAg 5MT/ZSP/ZCW (Street)
- 2006 M3 ZCP AW/IR 6MT/ZCP/HID (Street)
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Old 12-28-2013, 10:51 AM   #9
PEI330Ci
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post
later went to dry sump
Wait!!?? What!!!???

You have a dry sump on your street car?
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Old 12-28-2013, 11:02 AM   #10
nleksan
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 727
My Ride: 328Ci, 325i, 740i
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No, it's a track car.
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- DPE - Apex - BBS - PFC 6/4 2pc BBK - KW Clubsport - PowerFlex -
- M-Tech - Rogue Engineering - Ground Control - Odyssey -
- Hotchkis - AFE - UUC - AKG - Dinan - VAC - TC Kline -
- TMS - OS Giken - SuperSprint - Vorsteiner - Recaro - Samco - Fluidyne - MORE! -
GARAGE:
- 2000 328Ci Topaz 6MT-Swap ZSP/ZPP/ZCW/HID/HK (Street/Track)
- 2001 325i TiAg 5MT/ZSP/ZCW (Street)
- 2006 M3 ZCP AW/IR 6MT/ZCP/HID (Street)
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Old 12-28-2013, 11:29 AM   #11
unevolved
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Damn, I wish you had a build thread on that thing.
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:06 PM   #12
Davew
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 952
My Ride: 2004 330ci Msport
330ci ess ts2+

Quote:
Originally Posted by nleksan View Post
Running a "custom TSE3" myself (non-ESS supported), on a fully built M52TuB28 in my 328Ci w a 6MT swap from an 06 ZHP.

I have had the car since the first week of 2006, and it's gone through a number of transformations as I, and it, have aged and matured; suspension has been fully reworked 3 times, 5 brake kits, probably two dozen wheel sets, various exterior "setups", and the engine has goneffrom stock to mild bolt ons, to pushing it N/A As much as possible without getting into the bottom end (a new head with flow benching followed by porting, all new valvetrain from VAC/BW, Schrick cams, radiused valve job, etc) + the full bolt on monty, and finally a fresh ground up boost oriented build designed to support over 20psi @ 10.5:1 CR up to 7900rpm.

Needless to say, it has been anything but a cheap journey, and I would have saved tens upon tens of thousands had I done everything "right" the first time. Still, it's the journey, not the destination, right?


I can give you some advice, but know that this is based solely on my experience and may well conflict with others experience...

- At this level, maintenance is the difference between a perfect car and a junked $20,000 motor, and I personally have cut every single interval in half (oil every 3-5k, trans/diff every 15k, brake fluid every year and bleed every event, PS Fluid I do the turkey baster method and empty/fill reservoir every oil change, fuel filter every 15k, coolant in a 35/65 coolant/water ratio w a bottle or two RL WW every year, etc)
- I have saved thousands upon thousands by doing two things: first is that I always upgrade parts when they need replacing (for example, cooling system: Stewart pump, Samco/Stett/BW hoses, MS thermo, CR/Zionsville radiator, VAC Superlight U/D pulleys, etc), and second is to save up parts until you can have an entire section if the car worked on at once (suspension and drivetrain, for example, as my M3 ZCP is: dropped entire suspension, exhaust, both axles, and diff; JRZ 3-way coils, Hotchkis sways, OS Giken 3.55:1 28-clutch LSD w finned cover, TMS semi-solid diff mounts/bushings, RE RSM, AKG 75D subframe bushings, TMS full chassis weld in reinforcement kit, TMS Adj rear camber arms, RE RTAB + TMS limiter, TMS upper rear control arm bearings, Mahle HD FCA's + AKG FCAB's, GC Camber plates, BW Engine + Transmission "race" mounts, Meyle HD endlinks, Mason Engineering front steel strut brace + rear 3pt strut brace + rear brace to subframe X-Brace, custom front chassis X-Brace from TiG welded Chromoly steel tube, transmission tunnel and exhaust tunnel covered in "gold" reflective foil, AKG steering rack joint, custom CF single piece driveshaft, UUC EVO3+DSSR and ZHP 6spd knob, and a fair amount more; all the suspension parts not already properly finished were powder coated medium black, and the entire car underside was cleaned then resprayed Alpine White and it along with all components were film coat treated for anti-corrosion). Doing all that at once, at a friend'sshop and II have him "un-rush" it which, along with me actively working with him, resulted in a total labor charge of $1000 even, plus another $500 for paint and powder coating. It will be significantly more than that if you are not good friends with the mechanic, but it would still cost way more to split it into multiple jobs as you are disassembling the parts more times than necessary.
- DO NOT WAIT on the subframe reinforcements! And don't settle for anything less than weld-in done by a true professional! I had subframe cracking on my 328Ci just weeks after I gotit, and while BMWNA footed the bill ($9,800), I demanded that the repairs be done to the level that they're willing to warranty it for life, and that simply putting the same factory parts back I wasn't acceptable, because this is a major safety hazard. They ended up putting in an entire M3 rear end, and welding the trouble spots (the body shop doing the work said that was the only thing they felt comfortable with).

- Suspension, brakes, and wheels/tires should be upgraded to a level beyond what the engine is capable of, because in my opinion you can never have too much traction, brakes, or control.
- I would suggest at least a front, entry level big brake kit, and ideally a four-wheel StopTech/AP Racing/PFC setup. I would say that a Wilwood 4-wheel kit would be a great place to start, with the 6P/4P Superlight calipers. The StopTech ST60/ST40 is a step up, then AP Racing, then the StopTech Trophy kit, then PFC. 355mm front is the biggest rotor size to get, 380mm just adds weight and has no real benefits outside serious endurance racing. Regardless of what kit, always get 2pc floating rotors. I prefer slotted, avoid drilled. For a front only BBK, upgrade the rears w caliper rebuild kit, SS lines, brass bushings, slotted rotors, and equivalent pads to the front. For fluid, I have had ATE boil on me multiple times, with stock type brakes and even w my Trophy kit, but Motul RBF600/660 has never even gotten soft on me. It's a truly superior, in every way, fluid.

- IDK what wheels you have, but recommend spending some money on quality 18's or 19's, and honestly for Street use, the only downsideto 19s is a very aslightly harsher ride and more expensive tires, but they do look so much better in mostcases. I hhave 18s for track, 19s for Street. I would recommend a setup along the lines of 19x8.5-9 et32 to et38 front and 19x9.5-10 et38 to et45 in back, with 235-255 width front and 255-275 width rear tires. You can fit this w a bit of fender pulling, and the extra traction and wider track is worth it (I have my fenders cut, pulled, welded, formed, etc; extra 1 3/4+ inch per corner, bit less front, bit more rear).

- A Limited Slip Differential is a must have upgrade, IMO, for these cars when putting down the kind of power our TS setups make. I tried the 2-3 clutch setups, but I would only recommend an OS Giken unit anymore. The difference is huge, with progressive and smooth breakaway and lockup.
Nleksan

Thank you for your reply!

Lots of good info for me to take on board!

I am hoping to do things once only, hence why I am asking for advice/ direction. I need to keep a lid on the expense, and although I am not working to a budget, I wish to save through others experience and buy once

At the moment it is only running oem 17's lol.

I jumped on an opportunity to purchase a lot of the items second hand, but unused, which is why I have started a little backwards.

Totally agree on maintenance, I am onto this already, I should also mention that I am both a mechanic, and fitter and turner, and do all my own work.

Will read through your post a few times, and if you don't mind, will ask a few questions from time to time

Dave







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Old 12-28-2013, 03:23 PM   #13
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I am very glad that my post was of some help to you!


I do kinda wish I'd done a build thread as well, but at the time the whole project was more or less a whole bunch of different ideas (a thank youto PEI330CI, wwhose absolutely incredible knowledge of the platform was invaluable assistance!) , taken and thrown together and shaken really hard until a car fell out lol. Oh, and the other two ingredients were cash (measured by the fi****l), and the enduring help of awesome and talented friends (a retired BMW Master Mechanic who was trained in Germany and worked for BMW M Gruppe for 7 years, nd a vvery talented body and paint guy who runs his own shop and has won a lot of local car shows for his paint and metal work).

Having one of the people who was on the team that developed the S14 series engines, the S50B30/32, and the S54 was the only way my car turned out as well as it did. I can honestly say that he might as well be a wizard, watching him work, but he does love building engines with me becausehhe's "not held back by any restraints, like emissions or having to cater to the poseur crowd of M buyers". I simply lethhim build the head as he thought best, knowing the parameters I was wanting to work within. The cams were custom billet grinds, the valve jobs are "radius free", and despite the oversized valves, they sit flush like stock. The valvetrain is supposed to be good for 8600-9000rpm but even with a larger than ESS spec blower, it'd be out of its efficiency range.

The entire reciprocating mass of the motor is down by about 7Kg, about 240g per rod!

While I don't have a dyno chart handy, and it's been about a year and a half since it was on one, I believe that the last time it was run it put down 422rwhp @ 7550rpm and 392rwtq @ 4680rpm with 90 percent of torque available from 1920rpm to 6500rpm. There's no "VANOS/DISA" Bump either.
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:47 PM   #14
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I am very glad that my post was of some help to you!


I do kinda wish I'd done a build thread as well, but at the time the whole project was more or less a whole bunch of different ideas (a thank youto PEI330CI, wwhose absolutely incredible knowledge of the platform was invaluable assistance!) , taken and thrown together and shaken really hard until a car fell out lol. Oh, and the other two ingredients were cash (measured by the fi****l), and the enduring help of awesome and talented friends (a retired BMW Master Mechanic who was trained in Germany and worked for BMW M Gruppe for 7 years, nd a vvery talented body and paint guy who runs his own shop and has won a lot of local car shows for his paint and metal work).

Having one of the people who was on the team that developed the S14 series engines, the S50B30/32, and the S54 was the only way my car turned out as well as it did. I can honestly say that he might as well be a wizard, watching him work, but he does love building engines with me becausehhe's "not held back by any restraints, like emissions or having to cater to the poseur crowd of M buyers". I simply lethhim build the head as he thought best, knowing the parameters I was wanting to work within. The cams were custom billet grinds, the valve jobs are "radius free", and despite the oversized valves, they sit flush like stock. The valvetrain is supposed to be good for 8600-9000rpm but even with a larger than ESS spec blower, it'd be out of its efficiency range.

The entire reciprocating mass of the motor is down by about 7Kg, about 240g per rod!

While I don't have a dyno chart handy, and it's been about a year and a half since it was on one, I believe that the last time it was run it put down 422rwhp @ 7550rpm and 392rwtq @ 4680rpm with 90 percent of torque available from 1920rpm to 6500rpm. There's no "VANOS/DISA" Bump either.
That is excellent power and torque!

Definitely will take your advice on board

Coincidently, I believe PEI330CI was influential in recommending the parts I purchased from their previous owner, whether directly or through research I am not sure. Either way, the top end has worked well for me as far as a street car goes!

Now I have a lot of upgrading to do to bring the rest of the vehicle up to spec!


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Old 12-28-2013, 04:28 PM   #15
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nleksan, one question, what are the diameter of your SC Stage 3?

regards,

also, so sorry for your lost ;(


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Old 12-28-2013, 04:31 PM   #16
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Looking forward to seeing progress on this one Dave, I'll let you do all the research:-) and when it comes time for your bottom end build, I'll jump on board with mine.


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Old 12-28-2013, 05:10 PM   #17
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Looking forward to seeing progress on this one Dave, I'll let you do all the research:-) and when it comes time for your bottom end build, I'll jump on board with mine.


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Old 12-28-2013, 05:51 PM   #18
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Bottom end is a bit of a dilemma at the moment, I don't like the idea of spending the money required without gaining power/ torque. Where myself and davcon live, we cannot find anyone so far that can do a custom tune ( Melbourne, Australia ).

In my case, if I go ts3 with arrow rods, balanced crank, etc, the tune would be ok, if I get rid of the ssg and go manual, plus surgery to both knees lol

Would love to do what nleksan has done bottom end wise, but without a tuner, I would be in trouble!




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Old 12-28-2013, 06:07 PM   #19
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I'm a firm believer that the stock M54B30 bottom end can handle 350 to 400 plus WHP (Dynojet / CF SAE) any day of the week*' **.















* Street use, where high RPM pulls are quick & short.
** Bolt-ons like an ATI Damper & Super Oil Pump are a must.
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:18 PM   #20
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I'm a firm believer that the stock M54B30 bottom end can handle 350 to 400 plus WHP (Dynojet / CF SAE) any day of the week*' **.















* Street use, where high RPM pulls are quick & short.
** Bolt-ons like an ATI Damper & Super Oil Pump are a must.
The bottom end is holding up well, and it is for street use, not track, but with work I have put 30, 000 km on the clock in a little over 12 months, so to keep things optimal, I would like to start planning, purchasing in readiness for the bottom end. At the same time, if I can, I would like to add a little more power as well as (bottom end) reliability.

My plan has been to do the bottom end at around 200,000 k, which with the Klm's I drive will come round quicker than not.

I have loctited and torqued the opn, but do plan on upgrading the pump ASAP. I do have the ati dampener and M3 chain tensioner already fitted


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